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On 7/18/2023 at 12:06 PM, DaveO said:

Your tank looks beautiful. I think hanging the lights from the ceiling will look nicer too.

For sure, we just stopped trying once it was decided to go from the ceiling. Getting rid of the braces should look cleaner too. Just hope I have some studs in the right spot.

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On 7/18/2023 at 1:21 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

For sure, we just stopped trying once it was decided to go from the ceiling. Getting rid of the braces should look cleaner too. Just hope I have some studs in the right spot.

You could get all rustic artsy and get a rustic beam or even a piece of barnwood or whatever fits your decor.  Put that up on the studs as a “base” to hang the lights from.  Then attach your lights to the board, board is secured to the studs as needed.  A thick metal sheet would do the same.  Center it over the tank, secure to the ceiling studs, the use that for your base.  Or use a piece of track lighting so you can adjust exactly where you want your lights. I’m pretty sure they make track lighting fixtures that are essentially plugin sockets and they let you put your own lights onto the track.

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On 7/19/2023 at 8:30 AM, Odd Duck said:

You could get all rustic artsy and get a rustic beam or even a piece of barnwood or whatever fits your decor.  Put that up on the studs as a “base” to hang the lights from.  Then attach your lights to the board, board is secured to the studs as needed.  A thick metal sheet would do the same.  Center it over the tank, secure to the ceiling studs, the use that for your base.  Or use a piece of track lighting so you can adjust exactly where you want your lights. I’m pretty sure they make track lighting fixtures that are essentially plugin sockets and they let you put your own lights onto the track.

This would be cool. The problem I would have is me. I don’t have these skills. 
 

Would bending conduit into a frame over the tank look stupid?

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On 7/19/2023 at 9:35 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

This would be cool. The problem I would have is me. I don’t have these skills. 
 

Would bending conduit into a frame over the tank look stupid?

I’ve done bent conduit for frames over garden beds.  It worked for that but it isn’t really very pretty.  You can get a variety of black powder coated pipe for an industrial chic look.  And that would be super strong if you used 3/4” or 1” pipe, so zero concern about the weight of the lights.  You can get flat flanges for attaching to the ceiling or wall since pipe would be strong enough to stick straight out from the wall if you attached it to studs with long screws.  You could cut square boards, stain them dark walnut and fasten those to the wall as a more substantial base.

You wouldn’t be able to get all 4 screws into solid wood even if you hit a stud as perfectly as possible.  You would only be able to get 2 into studs, the other 2 would need to be into some sort of drywall anchor.  You’d want to put the screw holes diagonally so 2 would be centered into the stud.  The board would be to help disperse pressure since the board could be screwed to the stud in 3 or 4 locations, even if it was only 8-12” square.  Then screw the base plate into the board.  Then pipe sections and elbows to make your frame to hang the lights.  I’m not sure that’s clear.  Let me see if I can do a little sketch.

Either base could be used but the long board would be able to be secured across multiple studs for more strength.  You could even buy a prefinished, solid wood shelf and use it.  Then the pipe flanges secured to the board and a long pipe screwed into them - secure one flange, screw in the pipe length you need, then screw on the other pipe flange then secure it to the board.

The squares would make it look a bit more custom, I think, but there’s more room for slight error with the squares not being perfectly aligned, plus fewer anchoring points.  I would use copper wire to wrap around the long pipe and your light cords could be wrapped around the copper wire to the ceiling or wall to a black power cord mounted close to the base so only a single cord going from your socket to the base for a very cool, industrial look.

Just some food for thought so take it whole or use it to run wild with your own ideas.

IMG_5027.jpeg

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On 7/19/2023 at 7:35 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

This would be cool. The problem I would have is me. I don’t have these skills. 
 

Would bending conduit into a frame over the tank look stupid?

Not if you commit to making it look good. I didn't, so mine looks stupid. 

I like iron pipe painted black for an industrial - modern feel.

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On 7/19/2023 at 10:57 AM, gjcarew said:

Not if you commit to making it look good. I didn't, so mine looks stupid. 

I like iron pipe painted black for an industrial - modern feel.

My wife and I discussed it this morning and to prevent falling through the ceiling and putting more holes in the house, we are going to frame the tank. Iron sounds good but I’m leaning towards conduit painted black. I’m a bit worried conduit might bow in the center. 
 

How do you cut iron pipes?

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On 7/19/2023 at 9:59 AM, Odd Duck said:

I’ve done bent conduit for frames over garden beds.  It worked for that but it isn’t really very pretty.  You can get a variety of black powder coated pipe for an industrial chic look.  And that would be super strong if you used 3/4” or 1” pipe, so zero concern about the weight of the lights.  You can get flat flanges for attaching to the ceiling or wall since pipe would be strong enough to stick straight out from the wall if you attached it to studs with long screws.  You could cut square boards, stain them dark walnut and fasten those to the wall as a more substantial base.

You wouldn’t be able to get all 4 screws into solid wood even if you hit a stud as perfectly as possible.  You would only be able to get 2 into studs, the other 2 would need to be into some sort of drywall anchor.  You’d want to put the screw holes diagonally so 2 would be centered into the stud.  The board would be to help disperse pressure since the board could be screwed to the stud in 3 or 4 locations, even if it was only 8-12” square.  Then screw the base plate into the board.  Then pipe sections and elbows to make your frame to hang the lights.  I’m not sure that’s clear.  Let me see if I can do a little sketch.

Either base could be used but the long board would be able to be secured across multiple studs for more strength.  You could even buy a prefinished, solid wood shelf and use it.  Then the pipe flanges secured to the board and a long pipe screwed into them - secure one flange, screw in the pipe length you need, then screw on the other pipe flange then secure it to the board.

The squares would make it look a bit more custom, I think, but there’s more room for slight error with the squares not being perfectly aligned, plus fewer anchoring points.  I would use copper wire to wrap around the long pipe and your light cords could be wrapped around the copper wire to the ceiling or wall to a black power cord mounted close to the base so only a single cord going from your socket to the base for a very cool, industrial look.

Just some food for thought so take it whole or use it to run wild with your own ideas.

IMG_5027.jpeg

Wow, thank you. The second sketch would be so cool looking. Ugh, why didn’t I pay attention to this stuff when my dad tried to teach me these things? 🤔

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On 7/19/2023 at 10:02 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

My wife and I discussed it this morning and to prevent falling through the ceiling and putting more holes in the house, we are going to frame the tank. Iron sounds good but I’m leaning towards conduit painted black. I’m a bit worried conduit might bow in the center. 
 

How do you cut iron pipes?

You don't. It comes in lots of different lengths though, you can jerry rig together pretty much any size you need. I really like the way EmotionalFescue on TPT did their lights, with iron pipe mounted on wood. 

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On 7/19/2023 at 12:12 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Wow, thank you. The second sketch would be so cool looking. Ugh, why didn’t I pay attention to this stuff when my dad tried to teach me these things? 🤔

No cutting iron pipes.  Well, you can, but then you would have to get a die to cut new threads and you would triple your cost because big dies are pricey.  They come in lots of lengths so you just buy the length you want or a combination of lengths and joints to get the total length you want.  You should be able to find the length you need.

I would worry about conduit bowing, too.  Mine did in my garden and that was with only the weight of either bird netting over it or plastic over it in the winter to extend my gardening season.  I think you’d be better off with pipe.

 

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On 7/19/2023 at 11:23 AM, Odd Duck said:

No cutting iron pipes.  Well, you can, but then you would have to get a die to cut new threads and you would triple your cost because big dies are pricey.  They come in lots of lengths so you just buy the length you want or a combination of lengths and joints to get the total length you want.  You should be able to find the length you need.

I would worry about conduit bowing, too.  Mine did in my garden and that was with only the weight of either bird netting over it or plastic over it in the winter to extend my gardening season.  I think you’d be better off with pipe.

 

Iron it is then. Thank you.

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On 7/21/2023 at 11:57 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

Rare frontal…

IMG_0247.jpegGoals today, fix the 3 center plants and hang the lights from the frame.

For some reason that picture looks 1000x better than the others - it is more neutral - less pink. Why ?

 

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On 7/21/2023 at 12:34 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

I’ve been working on the light settings. Less blue now and higher greens.

Also, maybe the addition of the 3rd light causing less shadowing.

I really do like it - the plants to my eye look really nice with the change in lighting. I realize this is tricky because how they look in photograph is not how they look in person - and with the wrgb which are also blue heavy they look really nice in person but sucked in photo.

 

Anyways big thumb up.

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On 7/21/2023 at 11:47 AM, anewbie said:

I really do like it - the plants to my eye look really nice with the change in lighting. I realize this is tricky because how they look in photograph is not how they look in person - and with the wrgb which are also blue heavy they look really nice in person but sucked in photo.

 

Anyways big thumb up.

Thank you.

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On 7/21/2023 at 3:26 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Shot this with my good camera. Does it look okay?

Much better photo than the previous one. Color and contrast is good.  There is some tuning, but it's night and day better. 

 

If that photo isn't in your signature soon....... or on your profile somewhere....!

 

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DIY done, good enough for union work.

IMG_0266.jpeg

On 7/21/2023 at 5:23 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

Much better photo than the previous one. Color and contrast is good.  There is some tuning, but it's night and day better. 

 

If that photo isn't in your signature soon....... or on your profile somewhere....!

 

My computer monitors aren’t calibrated so I won’t get it perfect. This will be about as good as I’ll ever get it.

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On 7/21/2023 at 7:09 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

My computer monitors aren’t calibrated so I won’t get it perfect. This will be about as good as I’ll ever get it.

Makes sense.   It's going to look different based on the screen of the person viewing too, so there's always a bit of subjectivity.

On 7/21/2023 at 7:09 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

DIY done, good enough for union work.

If the sag ever bugs you too much or causes an issue, there is a technique we had to add some rigidity in my last job.  I don't think I can divulge how or why, but let's just say it was a high stress load.

Tube, inside of a tube, inside of a tube.  Often this was 3-4 tubes cut to varying lengths held in place with hardware.  Something for this application might be adding a secondary tube to reduce the sag and then adding corner braces.  You could also support the middle section via the wall, but not sure if you wish to do that.  The sketches by Odd_Duck showed the wall mount methodology and looked pretty awesome.

a.png.f4a89f7675299873a82e78d7826fde69.png

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