nabokovfan87

I just removed it. Try removing the airline alltogether and see if that fixes it.

That's awesome, congratulations!

I had a really hard time actually adjusting the flow and the air. That alone was enough for me to not want to use it. I had other issues, I totally feel your pain on having struggles with it. Beyond that, trying to help and remember how I solved the issues, I think one of the main things is to make sure you are using the little outlet piece. It quiets it down a lot. The venturi itself is just an adjustment but the issue I had was the actual output itself being pretty noisy. If you're hearing it too much I'd recommend just turning off the venturi and adding an airstone instead.

you're definitely going to want to use prime once every 24 hours for right now. No more than that though. Adding the bacteria (stability) is perfectly fine, keep dosing it until the bottle is completely used, usually around 7 days. Question, if you take your hand and disturb the substrate is there a lot of gunk that floats into the water column? It looks like it's just gravel, not a planted substrate that could be leeching ammonia. I would move the fish temporarily (for an hour or two), disturb the substrate and best you can without uprooting the plants and then do a good gravel vac / water change. This should get things to drop in value and then daily you'll want to dose with prime, gravel vac (if you need to), and then perform a 30% water change. Within a few days you hopefully will see ammonia cut in half and decreasing as well as the bacteria itself taking hold. Salt would also be beneficial if/when you do move the fish to another tank or tub just for the sake of helping to reduce symptoms from ammonia burn and nitrites damage. May or may not be this, but hopefully this helps in the event that you need to treat for it. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/faqs/how-to-treat-fin-rot

If you don't have a choice and you want to save the media itself, I would run it through water, clean the bucket itself and then put the media into the bucket and run water through it for a considerable amount of time. You'd definitely want to start cycling new media or have something else for the time being and dost some bacteria to try to populate that new media (or this media when it's cleaned). As a final resort to "clean it" I would run it through carbon with a powerhead in the bucket for 3-5 days just to try to absorb any contaminants. I'm in agreement though, I don't think it's worth the risk. If I could I literally hand you a bag of media I can't use to try to replace what was lost. 😞

They keep coming up on the forums a bit, what about silvertip tetras? They have that behavior and stay slightly smaller so you'd have more room to add more of them. Agreed, gobies are really fun to me as well. One of my favorites I look forward to keeping one day.

If you wish, you can have one sponge on either side of the tank to help alleviate dead spots. If i may ask, what was the HoB that was causing issues with noise? Maybe there is an easy fix. If it was an aquaclear, it's likely the impeller grinding on the shaft (no way to avoid it) and the other major complaint is the lid rattling, which just means I put something heavy on it. I notice the pump head up front too, that's an awesome thing to have in there as well. You can install the pump head into the sponge filter to boost circulation that way and the sponge filter will act as a prefilter also! I think what would help most with deadspots and keep noise to a minimum would be adding a ziss airstone where you can make the bubbles fine. I have a tank next to me i added Tidal 75 filter on, it has 2 sponge filters, and a ziss bubble bio and it's quite silent. I tend to run a sponge on each corner or centered like you do and then just add an airstone for circulation on one of the lower flow spots (being the wood on that left side would be my best guess). One of the tips I heard from one of Irene's or Cory's videos was that when feeding nano fish it's hard for them to eat a big meal, so the recommendation was to feed them less, several times a day. I would recommend feeding them half the amount you are feeding them now, but feed them morning and night. There might be some foods like the xtreme nano pellets that tend to float (and some will sink right away) which would give you a better feeling that all the fish have had the opportunity to feed. With regards to the siesta settings, It essentially just means you light the tank for 4 hours, take a break, then light it again for another lighting window of 4 hours. Because of the high natural light you're describing I would start your fluval light at pretty low settings and then report back on whether or not the plants are getting enough light and you're seeing new growth. Pure White: 25-35% Warm White: 20% Cool White: 15% Red: 20% Blue: 1-3% If you aren't seeing new growth, after ~3 weeks you'd increase it up by 10% and then run that for another ~3 weeks. I have a tank that gets a lot of direct light but only has very, very slow growing plants. Because of this I run a very underpowered fluval light (aquasky) and I only use it at 10% power. The planted 3.0 is going to be anywhere from 3-4x the intensity and it sounds like the situation you're describing is that you have more ambient / sunlight than I do. Usually when you have light in that way, you'll first see algae on the side of the tank itself, on the glass mostly. I do see signs of that on the right side of the tank. If possible you can add some window film to that side of the tank to block a portion of it. Some tanks I have covered on 1 side, some I have covered on 3 sides because of light and wanting to give the fish a secure place where shadows don't really stress them as much. (that's my QT tank) Hopefully this helps. If you have any direct questions you need some help with please feel free to ask!

Sounds perfect. I would consider adding some of the pandas to that tank too. I'm sure they'd do really well. Have you ever kept emperor tetras? Pseudomugil rainbowfish look really awesome and might be what you're looking for. They have a very similar aesthetic to the killifish also. @WhitecloudDynasty How do you think shiners will do here?

I think it's a lighting / trim thing. On one of bentley's talks he discusses how to encourage plants to grow wide vs. tall. There are even variations in color that you can adjust to encourage certain types of growth. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/beginners-planted-tank-101/best_light_spectrum https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/light-3pillars/blue-light-land-aquatic-plants

Well I mean, hopefully they aren't producing waste 24 hours a day, but they are definitely breathing all day. It makes sense, I just didn't realize that was a source of ammonia in particular. https://www.zoology.ubc.ca/~woodcm/Woodblog/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Wright-and-Wood.2012.Resp_.Physiol.Neurobiol..pdf https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3059970/ So many interesting things to learn.

What is the tank temp right now? Is there any way for the Guppies and Gourami to go to a separate tank? I think you have essentially "two tanks" in one right now. Cool water, higher oxygenation, "high flow" tank: Panda Corys, Hillstream Loaches. (these species at 72-74 would give you a set of options to add to the tank) -Killifish (depending on scape/flow), barbs, rasboras, white clouds, etc. would be good in this tank and would prefer the higher flow, cooler water. Warmer, tropical tank, lots of fry, big ball of plants: Guppies, Gourami, etc. (I would imagine this tank is ~78 degrees). -Tetras, rainbowfish, bolivian ram, etc. Potentially it makes sense to just drop the temp in the tank in general for everything. This is from the Co-Op care guide for guppies.

I would start here. Very similar situation with some really good advice. I would recommend making a thread with photos and full details in the disease sections as well.

Looks great, nice work!

I would encourage you to try to keep nitrates lower than 40, preferably below 20. I used to shoot for 40's and had severe issues with algae as a result (among other reasons). May I ask what is in the tank in question and if you have plants in the tank? What is your thinking behind wanting to keep it at 50 apart from lowering water usage? For difficult to read results you can take a photo and use something like this to try to manipulate the photo to grayscale or another color scale and try to make it easier to read. I use this one and it has 2-3 that usually work well given the original colors. https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/

I have a whole thread I'm working on "fixing" the tidal. It's worth a look if you want to get one so you are aware of some of the issues with the filter. BUT, out of the box, you get the filter, you can run just the Tidal55 without issue, you can run 2x the tidal 35's if you want to have "high flow" in the aquarium. The smaller tidal 35 have an exposed pump so you might run into issues with small fish. They both have the skimmer, you'll probably want to seal that off on the tidal 55. I have photos and video on how to do that, very very easy, but it's an issue for a tank with small fish for certain. If you get an aqueon, aquaclear, fluval, or some other HoB filter you'll likely have less issues with small fish. You can set up something like the tidal 55 and probably have enough to circulate the entire tank, adding an airstone is a bonus but not required. It's useful to have on hand if you need to run meds and add aeration to the tank to help the fish. On my 29G I run the tidal 55 (it's a taller tank but same footprint as a 20L) and I just have the HOB centered and then have an airstone off to one side.

It's on one of the daily dose videos. I tried for an hour and some change to find it, but I can't. It's on this playlist, I just don't know which specific video. Sorry about that. Once you feed or once they associate you with food they should stop hiding. Essentially you're a big shadow and they are afraid of that initially. My suggestion would be to approach the tank as normal and just stand there and wait. Let them get used to you. Drop a very small amount of food in the water, wait for them to come out, then feed them properly.

I would assume the adhesive is an issue. Apart from slate, there is this stuff called "coral frag disks" that is essentially the same thing but may potentially raise KH. So if you have a tank that benefits from some KH, those might work well.

Maybe this is a "beginner question" or just a very specific point in the fish keeping career, but I think it's an interesting one. Where did you learn how to keep plants? I enjoy the way you're discussing how to process the trimmings and I think it's something where myself, other hobbyists that might not be so in tune with plants, really can benefit from advice like this. Corvus Oscen has been my best source for trimming advice and learning how to actually care for the plants.

If it helps, my "dream tank/room" is literally for ONE FISH and not anything further. Go for it..... let's see what you really wish you could have to keep some fish!

A practical example / case study is the 20L aquarium compared to a 29G tall aquarium compared to a 38G aquarium. They are all exactly the same width and length dimensions, but the only difference is the height of the tank. This directly affects the deflection. Then you ask yourself, what amount of deflection is acceptable? A 20L deflects about a 1/4", a 29G deflect about 1/2", and a 38G has a brace. All of those tanks have the side panel under the most stress because it is a "long aquarium" but the amount of weight and force is very different in each case. Think of it like styrofoam. Allowing it to deflect absorbs force, but it doesn't specifically return to it's normal form when it is unloaded after receiving stress. Glass is a liquid, not a solid. It can relive stress by flexing, but not necessarily by twisting. That's when you run into issues. I totally understand. I hope the explanation makes sense and is helpful. If it isn't, I totally understand!

I spent my day removing one.... so frustrating! 😩 I'm legitimately having issues actually keeping anubias attached and having super glue on hand. 😞 It wasn't a "crazy day" in terms of anything in particular but I will call it an eventfull one. I checked the main tank, I desperately wanted an excuse to gravel vac the tank, but with worms in the water, the open sore on my hand, it was not to be. Nitrates under 10, KH slightly lower than I'd like, but not too low. I adjusted the HoB level slightly to make sure it was setup as best I could. I was annoyed because of course it was bypassing slightly for no reason whatsoever. (thanks seachem) I checked the living room tank and I know it's time for a WC so I didn't waste a test strip and just opted to clean the filters and changed 30% of the water. I didn't do it the past weekend just because of being tired, needed to be done. The pups weren't having it and it was a bit of barking but the tank is fine. I flipped the rocks around, moved the scape a bit and moved the sponges. Installed the lovely new aquarium co-op airline holders and then adjusted the back trim on the lid so it wasn't crushing the airline hosing. I checked the fish, checked on everything and just finished up adding everything. I'm certain KH is an issue, but because I had dosed dechlorinator I'll check it in 24-36 hours and then make any adjustment need be. Again, not a crazy day, but a critical one because now I know both tanks are good to go for at least another week or two.

This is inherently true, but might not be the full scope of accuracy. Let's say the sides deflect 1" the bottom deflects 1/4"...... which one is really taking the stress? That's the whole point. The difference between the two designs and the reason why the loading is different. Specifically, I present those two as cautionary tales of "why it matters". It's your tank and your room and your setup. I hope you don't have any issues. Common knowledge is as follows. Rimmed tank: Support all 4 corners / sides. Rimless tank: Support the entirely of the base surface equally to minimize deflection. Keep in mind. The bottom glass being able to deflect is what allows it to actually relieve stress when under load.

Already at #2 I don't have ANY way to test anything. 😂 Awesome example. Thank you! I love this. So cool to be able to understand the why not just the how.

When you fill a tank, the load is basically on the longest sides of the tank pushing outward. So let's say it's a 75G tank. Essentially, these walls are bowing. pushing the seals and everything outward. the corners are your structure and it's trying to support the load. This is why the tank has that brace in the middle, to lower the deflection on those panels and to try and keep those things from causing the seals themselves from shearing off the glass. The most common issue is the seal itself shears off the glass in some position, usually on one of these longer panels. The load is trying to resist this load. Supporting the walls themselves helps this issue and thing of it like a car sinking in a lake... one small crack and the window will shatter. One small stress in the up/down direction and that thing will shatter. This is why you don't load the bottom. It's a few hundred pounds of pressure and one deflection will cause it to shatter pretty easily. With a rimless aquarium, that bottom glass is heavily loaded, it cannot deflect, which means if it does, it's going to shatter. He has another video. He had moved his stands on 120G aquariums. A small pepple was on the stand and that ended up causing enough stress for the tank to shatter. Extremely high quality tank, destroyed by a small pebble from not cleaning the stand before placing the aquarium. I believe this is it.