nabokovfan87

I'll have to give it a look. Haven't heard of it. It's definitely difficult these days, meaning, the struggle I go through daily as someone who prepares food for a group of people.... not having access to see the ingredients and having to "trust" or explain to others that necessarily won't care too much what is going into their body. I think it's a good step that we have so many people asking these kinds of questions, demanding, requesting, wanting to understand how things are processed for populations instead of just going to mcdonalds and going "mmm tasty"

I have 3 of the Marina D-Cell pumps for when things get real bad. Slightly higher output compared to the nano+lithium pumps. I would recommend the nano pumps for emergency use as well as the USB battery banks. I have a bag with my "emergency" stuff, nano pumps, gang valve, check valve, tubing scraps that I can use. This was my testing and what not.

If it is worms I would investigate and compare to anchor worms, especially the wounds themselves. It's hard for me to see, I know the frustration of trying to compare these things via photos vs. what your eye can see! Are you treating at all for bacterial?

Hey Everyone, I mentioned in another thread about how I had emailed xtreme regarding their food and "fish meal", shark byproducts, etc. I don't have a reply from them or know if this is anything they've looked into. I was on the website trying to research and compare foods and I came across this. I am pretty confused by the wording and was wondering if someone else has any clarification on what this means. Nano is what I usually see on their labels, these types of ingredients with a few variations here or there. "Animal Protein Products of Marine Origins" caught me off guard. Is this a mix of krill + squid + fish meal? Then you have something like "Fish Protein Concentrate" and as a hobbyist we all read that positively because we see protein in the wording. Is there anyone who has experience in this type of a field or knows what exactly these differences are?

I totally understand that. Keep an eye out. What temp is your tank?

Makes it slightly easier! Yeah, definitely take out what you can and just let it sit, air dry even. Plants you can keep in a tub or whatever or just keep in the tank. Personally, I'd prefer to monitor them and likely take the tank or setup a tub until things were ready. Just be sure not to run the light in a tub for 14-16 hours a day and have it way too high and let the algae take over. The advantage is that you don't really have to worry about "feeding" the tank because there's no fish, so less of a risk of algae from waste. 🙂

Had to run the tank off of the larger, car style emergency jumpers. It was the HoB itself and not the airpump and it lasted well below 8 hours. So it does appear that the AC-->DC-->AC is causing some pretty severe losses on those as well.

I'm glad your safe! I can only imagine the emotions going on right now. If you have any nano pumps or battery powered pumps I would try those first. I'll have to find the thread, but depending what you have will determine how things last. Even with no heat and lights having that air pump running might be what you need to keep them going if there is any survivors. Being able to check on the fish daily at least is also a major need. If you can I'd move the fish to a tub with you and just leave it at that. Definitely. There's likely going to be particles in the air and easy for things to drop in the tank and contaminate stuff. I would remove hardscape, plants, fish, and preferably drain the tank and cover it. If it's a small tank I'd take it with me to wherever and just set it up like Cory's video on moving fish. I hope that helps and I'm sure others have some awesome ideas as well to help out. Some of the above might not be an option, but hopefully we all can help from all the way over here in whatever way we can.

Absolutely, worst case is after a while you have a pile of fluff on the bottom. In my case I have one tank that has a school of ~30 panda Corys and one tank that has 5 black Corys as well as otos and shrimp. When I make mine I do freeze it and so I end up cutting it into a grid about 1/2" squares. I would recommend smaller squares but it's a little bit easier to freeze when it's slightly bigger. On the tank with more fish they get 2 squares and it's basically gone in 4-12 hours. On the tank with less Corys I try to find a half cube or a small one and it's usually there for a good 12-24 hours. Very high quality ingredients, you can stick it on pretty much anything and then toss that back into the tank, feeds very easily and is a different texture and eating experience for the fish.

With ich you'd still want to do the food as well. Essentially the ich falls off and then you have wounds and that can lead to secondary infections.

If it's ich, you'd be treating the tank and not just the fish. It uses the substrate as a means of it's lifecycle. I don't know about the other one, maybe @Colua can confirm on that one. I had green tigers with ich and it looked pretty similar. Do you see any white spots on their fins themselves or just the body? I'm seeing it on the fins pretty much exactly what I saw with ich.

Based on behavior, you might have better luck finding it after lights out. I can't see end shape very well due to size, but every indication I have is that it's rounded. They definitely don't have a flatworm type of shape at all (not planaria), but I couldn't tell you if the end of the worm has any particular features without being able to get a clear view. If I see one again I'll try to find some contrasting color and take as many photos I can with my different lenses I have. Edit: It's been a busy morning, but here's the results. Ammonia strips I have reported 0. I tested it a few times. The strips I have are expired. Nitrite seems low enough that I am going to keep an eye on it and try to let the tank process it.

For the first time in essentially forever the tank is showing nitrites for me. I did a big gravel vac and took up a lot of gunk. I can't record and clean at the same time but what I saw was this white powder from the substrate as well as worms and so forth. Everything seemed to be dead, but this is very likely why I am seeing issues with testing. Test your water every time you change water, before and after if you can. I will retest in the morning and test for ammonia and check tap water and report back if there's anything out of the ordinary. I do have media to replace and refresh the matrix I have in there now because I felt like it's just clogged at not working as well (hence the fixing of the bypass thread). I assume the white powder (same size and so forth) is the meds I was running and they didn't dissolve well enough or something? It's really weird. I am not really sure what else it could be. It sort of looked like glitter almost. I am very likely going to be gravel vacing every two days to give the fish and shrimp some stability but get these worms out of there. I don't know if it was the salt, treatment #2 or fixing the filtration but I hope I don't start seeing these things wiggle again. Test Results after vac and 50% water change: Temp: 78 degrees PH: 7.2-7.4 KH: 60 GH: 300+ Nitrites: ~.25-.5 (probably from the worms decomposing?) Nitrates: 15-25

I have noticed.... as reported a while ago that there is a very distinct difference between the old and new. As Cory mentioned a few times on livestreams the binder used, whatever that change was is causing the new versions to deteriorate quickly. I do see a pile of spirulina on the substrate and for this use it's quite fine. That being said, I think I am just going to convert to using repashy more or try to find an actual "spirulina tab" that works a bit better. For those interested, I've spent about the last 2-3 hours trying to find the actual stream where the formula differences were shown off. There is some comments in the thread as well so I thought it was critical to share that link here. It's a weird issue and it's the type of thing where a shape of a food changes how my fish interact with that food pretty significantly. I'll have to see what I can find!

which one? what is your pressure on the leftmost valve for your CO2? That one would determine what kind of pressure is in the line and help that situation.

What is your light / settings? My PSO loved light and grew tall to reach it. I would definitely keep an eye out for deficiencies and new growth and see what it does. If you're not seeing new growth let us know.

Here's a livestream where the question came up. It should start right when the question is posed.

I would love to test it specifically with something like an AC20/30 and a Tidal35. I absolutely think things will greatly vary from one HoB to the next. I think a 10G or 20L tank fits that, but the difficulty is having the "standard" filter along with the one that's hobbyist recommended and we all mostly use.

I absolutely don't expect to win, but I do want to encourage participation! I don't think it's fair to show my tank without showing the chaos that it's been through (photos in my journal). I tried to clean the glass as best I could, but I always miss some. There is algae, there likely will be for a while on this one, but it is newly planted. I turned the lights on, scared a pleco and he tossed the Hygrophilia Pinnatifida in the back left up into the water. Please ignore! I'll be really excited when this one grows in!

Stability you can double. It's just bacteria. Quick start is the same thing. You only need to dose 1 of those. What you can do, I think it might be in the directions. Perform a big dose on day 1. then the following day you have a smaller dose. I would suggest sticking with just stability for right now. Keep in mind both of them likely need to be refrigerated once it's opened. Today, Dose in 3x the normal dose. Next 7 days: Dose in the normal dose for your tank. Be sure to shake the bottle prior to dosing and the liquid should look pretty opaque. For Seachem Stability: Ammonia looks lower! (.25 ppm?) Nitrite: Difficult to tell from here, maybe 0.5? Nitrate: 30 ppm (this is safe / good!) Keep in mind, some tests might just darken if you let them sit. So let's say you let it sit for 15 minutes, but the directions say 5 minutes, you might be getting high results because of that. The biggest concern and main thing is just to keep an eye on ammonia as a focus. As long as it's not skyrocketing, it means things are working. If we see it go up, then we need to find out where the ammonia is coming from apart from just the fish. How is the fish doing, how are the fins and gills looking?

I did run a water test! But, then I got too involved with removing the worms from the substrate and so I forgot to read the results in time. I am trying to let the buffer do it's thing and then I'll re-test and edit this post accordingly. Typically I test prior to changing water. I did about a 50% water change. Edit: Results Temp: 78 degrees PH: 7.2-7.4 KH: 60 GH: 300+ Nitrites: ~.25-.5 (probably from the worms decomposing?) Nitrates: 15-25 Here's the check-in on the plants: Hairgrass looks to be doing ok. I do see new growth. The paleness is likely due to the salt and other stuff going on in the water the past couple of weeks. Bonus gigantic worm as well which I had to make sure was a bloodworm and not some super form of these parasites I'm dealing with. New plants seem to be doing ok Hygro looks to be doing fine. On the S. Repens I don't see much "new growth" but I do see new roots, which is a good sign. Finally, the gem that amused me this afternoon was this little growth of anubias that is just too perfect. For whatever reason it's growing in this way and it's likely due to placement in the tank. The new leaves are growing in 3-5 at a time in a stack and are growing in very small instead of what I normally see. I also took a picture of the Anubias that is slightly lower in the tank. I assume the pale leaves means I need to increase dosing. I've been pretty lean with things just because of trying to keep stress on the fish low.

I did a big gravel vac on the tank during my worm hunting and general maintenance day. I did not check the pump cavity for worms, but I did see bypass immediately after cleaning. This might've just been as simple as the level on the HoB being slightly too steep, but I did record it for the sake of sharing. (there's some tips/tricks I'll get into one day regarding how to mess with the angle to reduce bypass) The flashlight has new batteries, so I apologize for the harsh brightness. The bypass seemed to be focused on the right side, flow going from left to right (and top to bottom, then bottom to top). The mass of the water hits the right side of the HoB and it looks like it's filling the chamber where the blue indicator sits. This was overflowing into the basket. What I noticed after cleaning the basket and foams was that the water level was pretty high and in order to reduce that height the flow itself had to be turned all the way down. Secondly, the meniscus of the water was essentially "leaning" into the basket in the rear region of the HoB where we typically see bypass. In the video you can see this leaning on the handle area as well.

I absolutely don't mind showing you the panda herd going to town on it. LOL

I would try to find a way to mount it one day. Controlling the light itself is going to be the easiest way to fight this kind of algae. In my case, I turned down the light, made sure there wasn't any dead spots, a lot of manual removal and a ton of cleaning things to make sure there isn't a random pocket of waste (dead plants) in the substrate that is causing too many nutrients in the water column. Second to that it can be controlled with the lean dosing method.

Plenty! I try to have 3-4 foods, feed a different one every day, fast one day a week. The corys should go after the vibra bites eventually. I'd recommend trying those on the day after fasting and see how they do. If you have some very small fish that can't figure out how to bite it, I would try crushing a little bit of it when you put it in the tank and it will turn into very small food for the top and mid level feeders. Corys are designed to eat them, so they will definitely figure it out. Be sure to hit up the Panda Cory Appreciation thread. I posted some of mine going absolutely bonkers for brine shrimp today. I think I have a few up there of them eating the vibra bites as well.