nabokovfan87

I apologize about the delayed reply. I am trying to think of how to help. If you can, I would suggest adding some lava rock to the tank if you can. It would act as your ceramic or media for the tank itself alongside your other filtration and really help to try to keep 0 ammonia / nitrites.

Does this help? https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh

Keep an eye on the tidal for bypass. If you have any issues, please be sure to check the tidal thread or go ahead and send me a DM. This likely is oxygenation issue. Cut the CO2 for a two days while we talk through and verify setup. Can you take a photo of the amano shrimp and otos to show gill coloration and shell coloration please. Very good question! One of the biggest things to check is the CO2 when it's under pressure, it might be something that changes from when you first set it up and you might be dumping CO2 into the tank unknowingly. If you can, take a video of the bubble counter and show the diffuser in the tank so we can see how it's flowing.

I added some of my smaller size amanos to the 29G Black cory tank. Their fun now is literally riding around on the bigger amanos just for the laughs. Plecos would definitely not cuddle, especially with the spikes!

75G tank, probably this one? https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-ClassicLED-Aquarium-Spectrum-Freshwater/dp/B07KK6G8ZL?th=1 https://modestfish.com/nicrew-classicled-plus-review/ Here is a review as well to compare to a few other lights that might be helpful. For whatever reason my browser won't let me download the nicrew manual from their website and they don't list specs for anything on the product page in terms of lumens and stats. It just says it's 25% brighter than the version 1.

It is because of the versatility and ability to customize the actual LED options for the light itself. It's a feature on something like the AI lights and those are extremely pricey by comparison, especially when you need 3-4 per tank of that size. https://www.amazon.com/AquaIllumination-Prime-Freshwater-Black-Fixture/dp/B084GW16LY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=aquaillumination+freshwater&qid=1658043988&sprefix=AquaIllumination+fre%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-2 The nice thing about some of the fluval features is that you can get some of the "nice" things that aren't common for freshwater, let alone just the waterproofing. It's a good deal, but I totally understand the pricing issue. It's a tough sell, especially once they raised the prices a year or two back. I ran mine on a 55 and 75. Worked fine. Had issues with some plants, but it definitely wasn't the lights fault. My own newness into the hobby did that. If you want to find something equivalent, there's a few places I can point you do, but the main takeaway here is that you'll likely need something like the kasa smart plug or some other way to have the timer and you're not going to be able to dim things. This means mounting method, the ability to control the height of the light *might* be important. All of the lights mentioned we've all heard things and not too many have said bad things about. I'll just mention, the co-op light is due out. Might be what you're looking for. You can get an aquasky or the nano light if you're trying to just decide which route to go and have a 10G handy. Depending what plants are in the tank, that might be enough for you.

Looks like an awesome plant. Very unique. I hope things sort themselves out.

ooooof. That's as bad as the common pleco for a 10g tank switcharoo.

Can you post some advice here for these ones?

I run the 48" fluval planted light. Wish I had my 75 and could use it!

From a stream it was recommended to use neoplex specifically for fin rot. Some bacterial meds may not work depending on which gram negative bacteria you're up against. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/faqs/how-to-treat-fin-rot https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/fin-rot Essentially keep the tank/water (no ammonia, no nitrate, nitrates very low) as clean as you can and reduce stress on the fish. No mulm on the bottom, add an air stone, etc. I would also add ich-X and salt at this point because you're treating for fungal infection and bacterial in case of secondary / worsening symptoms. @Colu Can you post the recommendation for neoplex and how to use it? I don't have a ton of experience with seachem meds.

I typically have nitrite and ammonia constantly at 0. what does the tank look like? Do you have rocks and wood?

😂 one of those days! Thank you again Zenzo! I got some new repashy to try, a dope green hat, root tabs to help save these plants and then a puffer hat for my little sister 🙂

Python on the sink yes. On the ground with a hand siphon, until the bucket or tub matches water height, you're going to have very low flow issues to the point where you might not even be able to siphon off mulm and only change water. There are pumps that use a standard 1/2" or 3/8" fittings. Essentially you need a pump that can either go into the tank and remove water or something that can be external to the tank and pump it into the bucket or other water disposal spot. Depending on the size of the tank itself will determine the size of the pump you want. I would also recommend using hose clamps because you're going to be moving the pump from place to place and that can leak over time. The clamps can as well, but hopefully helps to hold things on. Here's an example of how this is typically done. It's very common for large tanks. Submersible pump you'd essentially do something like this with the ACO pumphead:

I have the same observation with my SAEs and with my RTBS. Very misunderstood and they tell you want they want to be comfortable. I'm guessing it's very common for fish in this family of species. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyprinidae Mine only ever had issues with eachother, and even then, "sibling rivalry" or just one fish simply saying that they want their hole back and to leave it alone. My RTBS had a cover, had a piece of wood that was hers. Only her corys were allowed in that spot. She protected them and their fry. She also did the same thing with my black cory fry. When the SAEs were added she was... annoyed.... with me, but she had her turf and she knew she was boss. They would literally lay on top of the piece of wood, lay on the plants, lay elsewhere 24/7.

That's great! You can see the blues and reds starting to color in really well. The yellow is an awesome sign. Very exciting update and I'm thankful she's enjoying the easier time eating.

I just had this issue with my tank, I lost a few amanos. 0. Add an airstone if need be for added aeration, consider salt as well. 1. Clean the filter and pump itself very well, including the impellers. 2. Add some 100% silicone grease (available at scuba shops or online) or some other food grade lubricant to the impeller shaft as you normally would. 3. Gravel vac the substrate to make sure there isn't a ton of mulm sitting out causing something like anaerobic issues. 4. Test daily and keep an eye on Ammonia, Nitrite. I had a few shrimp turn red, which I was informed is a sign of stress, I never saw anything in the testing results to indicate an issue. I also noticed them flashing/rushing around the tank like the flow was turned off and it wasn't. This was after the equipment issue was fixed. After about 4-5 days my tank showed nitrite, not any ammonia at any point in time. I would suggest keeping a very clean tank in terms of the water quality until you have ammonia and nitrites at 0 and then report back with how the shrimp are doing and their behaviors. Also, welcome to the forum!

Waiting for mine today. I'm very glad it didn't get stuck on the sunday layover in the summer heat, LOL! Thank you again ACO Team. It means a lot, genuinely. Congrats as well to @FrozenFinsand @Chick-In-Of-TheSea I'm excited to see what you two got, but also how you're going to use it!

It's definitely not easy. I'm right there with ya. There's a few videos, this one might be helpful for your tank because it's on that specific plant. I also check out videos like this to go ahead and make sure I'm attempting to do things right. I usually find 4-5 of them, but generally these two I linked have a lot of good info. Generally, trying to carpet you'd want to plant something in this fashion. Spreading the clumps might be beneficial for you to get it going.

It depends on what you're breeding. PSO grows like a weed, has insanely dense leaves and is a bush when it is under the right conditions. It is essentially a "stem moss" when I had it. Something like otos want something with slightly bigger leaves. For corys I have had awesome success with different size moss balls. If you just want cover, hardscape and piles of things works pretty good for that, but you might have to check for fry. (smaller rocks on the bottom, flat rock on the top to make it easy to lift / check) I have even used pleco caves as a home to protect fry. If you want to have cover, just have something that gives cover and lets them feel like they can be seperated from the bigger fish without the bigger fish able to get at them easily. Buce, crypts, swords, val, PSO, stem plants densely packed, etc. There's a few ways to achieve this. Even rocks with anubias nana, or nana petite can be amazing cover for fry.

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/fin-rot https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/faqs/how-to-treat-fin-rot There's a lot that can go into treating fin rot. The long story short is that it's a "gram negative" bacteria and it might not respond to some meds. Above you can find the articles to help guide you and hopefully that puts you at ease for how to do so. Please feel free to ask questions if need be. One of the biggest causes of something like this can simply be stress, so finding the source of that stress is important. Most commonly it's flow. A video of the tank and fish behavior notes might help diagnose the issue as well. Neoplex has been recommended on a livestream as a specific med that will handle gram negative bacteria. If the rot develops into a more critical stage and you don't see progress you might want to give that a try.

I would QT them. If you have the ability to do so, always do it. You give yourself a chance of saving yourself a huge headache if you're trying to avoid something. Plants need time to acclimate to your water and there's a few things typically recommended which might help! Here's the first, adding a root tab to the plant pot while it QTs and acclimates. Here's the video on how to dip the plants and QT them.

😱 LOL. I hate when that happens! Good catch. Either way, you get to decide if you want them or not now!

Looks awesome! I had some amazing tacos, didn't weigh them or anything like that because there was no way I was eating near 18! LOL. Nice work everyone, congrats to the winners!

If it spikes ammonia, you're looking at a soak time with carbon and or with some sort of daily WC for ~2 weeks I believe is the typical time frame. You're talking about massive ammonia leeching in some substrates and can do so a bit longer.