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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. I think the one you have is the breeder box. You would just spread the eggs out as best you can and then check on things as they change day to day. The ziss breeder box should come with an airstone which you would adjust up prior to the eggs hatching, then turn it down once you have fry. leaves (IAL/Catappa leaves) and botanicals would be beneficial as they are used to treat fungal issues. Methylene blue is the common one, but I tried it and still had fungus develop on the eggs. It could've been algae as well. It's a method, but not necessarily a guarantee. I would however suggest doing baths as a method. that might provide a better result. Especially in a breeder box you can easily dip the eggs for a few minutes each day. In terms of flow /circulation you can see bentley's video above to get a visual on specifically how to setup the tumbler. You want it to gently wiggle the eggs, which should prevent the fungus. Tumblers allow you to control the circulation / movement above using that specific tactic.
  2. If the air loop (pvc) is above the tanks completely and drops down you shouldn't have any siphon issues. I believe the issue is only when the pump is below the waterline or when the airline is below the waterline and can siphon out water. You would protect the pump by having the Air pump.... Check valve... then the PVC look in the ceiling. I am not certain that is require/recommended for a linear air piston pump. In my case, I use a gang valve. I add the check valve before the gang valve (close to the air pump) and then route the line to the wall, then to the drops in the tank.
  3. I would highly encourage use of something that isn't treated and is made of stainless steel. Most heatsinks are aluminum or copper. In terms of cooking, you can look into materials used (and cautioned against) for cooking to find reasons why for the above. Miir just came out with a stainless steel carafe brewer that might fit the bill. Maintain heat, that's basically the entire goal. @dasaltemelosguy check this out:
  4. Episode is 3 parts long, called the "double trouble duel" Part 1: https://www.yugioh.com/yu-gi-oh/double-trouble-duel-part-1/201 Part 2: https://www.yugioh.com/yu-gi-oh/double-trouble-duel-part-2/202 Part 3: https://www.yugioh.com/yu-gi-oh/double-trouble-duel-part-3/190
  5. The 40g would be good here because of the larger floor space for the axolotl.
  6. PH would shift based on oxygenation of the water. Adding salt to the tank if PH is extremely high, will help to slow down the affects of ammonia burn. See the chart below. At higher PH ammonium turns into ammonia. Your posts above don't specify what you mean by the PH in the QT tank where the fish are being kept. Your PH in the tap is 6.8 (this is before any off-gassing occurs). The PH in your snail/QT tank is? What is the filtration like? Is there an airstone or what is the setup? I understand it is a stressful situation. I am sorry for you losses. Please let us know a bit more so we can try to understand what is going on. This is from the tap. Is this from the tank? Given the KH you're at I would expect the PH to rise above 7.5 after oxygenation happens for 24 hours. For me, my PH at 6.8 out of the tap, stabilizes around 6.5-6.8 after off-gassing and my KH is 40 ppm. I dose in a buffer to get it up to 60-80 ppm / 7.0 ph
  7. you can adjust that ziss ever so slightly. The goal is that you want the eggs to have circulation around them. If you have some shrimp it is alleged that most neocaridina will groom the eggs for you. Cross your fingers. It happens. The best defense is to pull bad eggs as they show up, then to go ahead and spread them out as best you can to improve circulation (and reduce spread of fungus).
  8. Not really sure. "some" I am starting with 60-90 minutes or so. I mean.... you did that right!? This is very valid. I had a lot of concerns and questions about mine. I have a lot of concerns about all the genes on my fish because I have had so many issues previously. The nice thing is that you can get these sorted and breeding a bit more true, then you can go back to the same shop and get a lot better price for grading all of yours out. They'll appreciate the work and it's an easy bit of food/supply income! Of course, that's simply if/whenever that becomes something you feel like doing. @Lennie got some new shrimp. Still waiting for him to have his journal for it or something!
  9. There is an episode of yu-gi-oh based around a maze dungeon and a gate guardian... might be some fun inspiration for you. 🙂 I think it's on netflix still, so easy to watch. The premise of it is basically trying to solve a riddle about which door to go through and a specific type of challenge.
  10. That's awesome. Congratulations! Trying to get an oto, hillstream loach, or pleco is equally frustrating.
  11. That's awesome. I'll try to locate some 🙂 Always happy to hear about something new. I read your post... had the urge to go boil some cinnamon sticks. 😂 ORD.... sounds wonderful!
  12. I find that a large Jehmco box filter stuffed with fluval peat pellets bubbling away in RO water will keep the ph between 4.5 and 5,5. This is in a 20 gallon aquarium. If you want to nudge it closer to the lower end of 4, put a bunch of oak or Indian almond leaves in the tank, or use dark water extract. A lot of people use bags of soil too to buffer things down at or below 7. Normal ranges are 6.5-7. My water comes out of the tap in that range, adding the soil doesn't buffer it down much, but I also don't have nearly enough to do that. It's common practice in caridina shrimp keeping to have those very low PH ranges (5.5) and to just use a ton of soil. Mesh bags with soil, etc.
  13. I would start by confirming the type of algae you're dealing with. I just haven't seen Cyano enough to say "yep that's it", but I just wanted to mention that. I don't know if what you're dealing with is actually cyanobacteria / GBA. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/blue-green-algae I would expect something like this as opposed to long strands:
  14. ^^ Can confirm, "Hot Cinnamon" or similar is wonderful stuff and very healthy!
  15. When PH is low, Ammonia turns into ammonium and is much less toxic to fish. How you lower things and how you filter your aquarium, the full setup is important. Dilution is just as important as what your PH is... If your tank is overstocked, it doesn't mean you should lower PH, but it speaks to how fish are naturally adapted to certain ranges and parameters. @tolstoy21 or @jwcarlson how do you two handle this in your setups for something like breeding setups and lowering PH? Is it always low?
  16. James hoffmann is hours of entertainment if you've never seen his "experiments" and such. This is the way! Happens with a lot of things that humans drink.
  17. Out of curiosity.... do you have the ability to blue light the shrimp tank for an hour or two? I do see some rili patterning in the original shrimp. It isn't in a lot of them, but 1-2 in the first photo and 1 in the second. Could be nothing.... It's really hard to tell from the top for a lot of sorting. On the second photo that smaller one on the right looks a bit.... off. More of a grey or just underdeveloped in terms of it's patterning, which is very normal. One day I will have shrimp to sort! Then I can join in on the fun. 😂
  18. I have not. I would assume there is other issues with the amanos if you're having an adverse or stress symptoms. I have had my amanos for a long time and would be happy to help any way I can! For clarity, what is your PH, KH, GH, Temp, Nitrates, and how much air are you diffusing into the tank? Amanos do tend to like flow, circulation, and oxygenation. Not mandatory, but it does help in times of warm temps and stress.
  19. The reds do tent to pop. You might like the painted fire reds or sakura reds or the bloody marys. In terms of the background it's sort of a darker brown / black so I would avoid those if you want the shrimp to pop. Luckily that leaves you with a lot of options: Green, yellow, orange, red, light blue, etc. I would suggest wild type, greens, or reds, but it's entirely up to what you prefer.
  20. This might help out too for specifically grading out and culling your blues: https://www.theshrimpfarm.com/posts/grading-blue-dream-shrimp/ The above shrimp could also just be a wild type. Very minimal pattern, or that specific wild type of pattern would indicate so on further generations. The chart has two lines of neocaridina shrimp. One is davidi, the far left tree is a different species. (snowball shrimp, etc.) that was newer in terms of discovery. In your case, I think when you got your original batch or added to we did see some difference in pattern. You had one that might have rili traits, that then crossed with everything you had in the different color lines. You had one that looked brown, one that looked black, and all of those mix in different ways over time. Brown Neos basically means it's a cross of two colors. You likely had a shrimp at some point in time: Carbon Rili trait (this is how you get some of the black and the blue rili), black rose (this is how you get the all black, and can revert back to wild type patterns), blue dream, chocolate, etc. From the chart it would be all of these in some variation that you seem to have popped up at different times.
  21. I saw this in the other thread and was confused! There's a lot of forms of this thing floating around and I am not sure who has the newest/latest. This is the "most up to date" one I could find from the original creator. I believe the name is/should always be there. From what was mentioned in the other thread. You might have a lot of the "deep blue" in your line per this chart: LOL. Yeah for sure. Looks like a fancy lawnmower track.
  22. You might have a lot of the "deep blue neo" on the far right branch shown in the map above.
  23. Yeah... it was probably a MSTs video. He had one berried and saddled at the same time. 😍 He definitely has his shrimp humming! Like this? Blue jelly is like a powder/baby blue color. Think of it like a soft red cherry shrimp.... that's the naming given to the blue form of that light pigmentation form. This is the most up to date chart I have for cherry shrimp color morphs.... They would be in the blue velvet tree. Here's a photo of a very high grade one.
  24. Dipping the Hygro Pinnatifida for the next few days. This is the reference and the method: That statement at the bottom, it makes a lot of sense!
  25. The ones on the glass remind me of nerite, but I don't think they normally lay on the glass like that. They do look like some sort of snail eggs.
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