Mmiller2001

Ignore the pH, test KH and see what the difference is from your source water to the tank water. My source water is 9pH and my tanks are at 5.1pH when I water change. I change 60% every week. Any problems that would arise from changing water would be related to GH, KH and TDS, and only if you were doing large changes. As for the shrimp dying, young colonies have a tendency to struggle, early on, when water changing. After about 4 or so generations, water changes should be much easier. I might even test copper levels in your source water. Small amounts is okay, but beyond that, it could be a problem.

Florida Flag Fish.

Placement looks good to me.

Both of those tanks are looking exceptional! You know me, the top one is my favorite. 😁

I like the Chihiros WRGB2 120 on my 75. For filters, use anything that will give 5 to 10 times turnover. I would research Estimative Index dosing, it's just too easy and effective.

How many pumps of easy green? Salifert is the potassium test kit I use. Plants can take up all the available Fe within an hour, so test Fe 10 mins after dosing. With the information I have, I think you are over dosing Fe. What do your Nitrates test after a water change. What's your GH and KH?

I'm not sure what that is, but cool plant for sure 😃. It looks terrestrial.

Do you mean KH? I've never observed changes in GH having any effect on my pH. Minimal at best if you keep up with water changes. Just lower your KH to 3 degrees, should be fine for the shrimp and angels. Fluctuating pH is not an issue if GH, KH and TDS are stable. That's an old wives tale.

Slow doesn't describe how slow it actually is!

I would try turning up the working pressure.

There should be directions to blend it with Focus to make medicated food.

It could be. I would try ich X per direct on the bottle. If that doesn't clear it, I would do an antibiotic in food per directions. I would use Seach Kanaplex.

It could be bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia. I would orally treat with something like Seachem Kanaplex or even stronger. Neo/sulfaplex.

I agree, it's really hard to beat!

Thank you! I just saw a Twinstar on sale for 250. I also have never seen one and some people have said they cast a bit of yellow because the greens are lacking. I think you confirm that with your preference. Are the Titans adjustable? Or dimmable? Come with a timer?

Woops. My scissors went wild! Had to make room for some new plants so I tossed out a few species. Trying Val for the first time too. New additions: Rotala Wallichi Rotala Narrow Leaf SP. Red Rotala Macrandra Mini Vallisneria Spiralis Leopard. News on the 40 We are all in, this is happening. Everything is ordered and deliveries start Friday. I wanted to try the ALC's by Finnex and remembered that they don't have an option to have light duration settings. You can only program them in 3 hour durations. They will be sent back. Unfortunately, there's just no budget option that you wouldn't need 2 lights for 18” width. Buying 2 costs about the same as a Chihiros and Twinstar. So it makes sense to just get a premium light. But which one do I go for? Current USA has a planted light with impressive PAR and 660nm Reds, but has a 90 degree lens. That's a problem the 3.0 has! I will see if anything goes on sale this week. Maybe I can grab one cheaper.

I know one day, you might dabble on the CO2 side! It's worth it!!<wink> It was popping up before that. The Kimberly getting mad was definitely not having the co2 right after reversing it.

I just rescaped my 75, 3/4 of a 5 gallon bucket in plants mulched! Don't be mad! I was going to reach out to you once I have things converted and all cycled. Thank you! I will definitely be in touch and I will be reading all that information multiple times. For the sake of my sanity, my wife and I decided to just take the 40 breeder through this challenge. Should hopefully make it a bit easier to work in. I follow burr740 and really try to kinda make my tanks look like a cross of his, Greggz and others.

I don't know, I will have to figure all this out. Never thought I would try this, but my wife is pushing me.

Any work, they are cheap. And I personally can't live without my TDS meter.

😜 I'm overly compulsive as im trying to really understand how to resolve these problems. I've given up on my 40. That's getting a complete redo, the whole 9 yards redo! I've also decided, I'm going to enter any contest and see what happens. So I ordered aquasoil, lights and Dutch style appropriate plants! I'm eager to try the more budget friendly Finnex ALC lights. I will have a review on them shortly. Hopefully my expectations aren't shattered 😭. I fully expect that I will have to buy another Chihiros! But maybe I will be pleasantly surprised! Now I have to learn Dutch style rules, uughh.

I'm a Eheim guy, I fully expect that my Eheims will still be running 20 years later. Common hose sizes, non of this weird hosing issues some filters have and they are dead silent. The Eheim Classics are at a great price point and work just as well.

I would feed them lightly after they settle in for a few hours. The best way to avoid any BB problems, is to feed the antibiotic mixed into food. I would grab some Seachem focus, and use that to combine the Maracyn to a pellet food. So you would hit them with Paracleanse/General Cure, Ich X and the Maracyn mixed into the food. You will have to search for a recipe to mix Maracyn with Focus, but if you can find Seachem Kanaplex, I would use that over Maracyn. Maracyn is good, but Kanaplex is a bit better. If you get Kanaplex, It's 1 scope Focus and 1 Scoop Kanaplex mixed into 1 table spoon of pellet or frozen food with a bit of RO/ Distilled water or garlic guard. Mix it real well and let it sit in the fridge for 20 mins or so. Then you can freeze it in serving portions. Feed per direction on the Kanaplex label. If you go with Maracyn directly into the water, the BB will take a hit. You will just have to monitor Ammonia often, I would over dose prime every 24 hours if you find a spike. After the 5th day, if Ammonia is still there, I would start large water changes to control ammonia. Once things stabilize, I would dose General Cure/Paracleanse again at the start of week 2 per the directions on the box. @Colu may have a Maracyn recipe. From my experience, survival rate jumps up when dosing antibiotics into food. Hope this helps!

Yeah, it's really nice!