Mmiller2001

Personally, I would cut the flower off so all energy is put into leaf development. But I'm not normal! 😜

Depends on the tank. But 20ppm NO3 1-5ppm PO4 15-30ppm K Just start on the lower side and work up. Here are my numbers, but I'm pumping a decent amount of light and CO2 with a decent plant load.

Here's there response. 1 pump per 5 gallons adds roughly 4ppm no3, 5ppm K and 1ppm po4. So I would start around 6 pumps for the 10 gallons.

What frame work do you use in the tank?

Yeah, I'm thinking it might get too bushy. I'm going to try the Limnophila Vietnam, if it doesn't work, I'm going to try Pogo Erectus.

I would pick shrimp that would work well with your source water parameters. What's your GH and KH?

Is this the same material used for your moss wall in your AGA win?

Dosing information is pretty scarce on YouTube, but I would research Estimative Index dosing. This is mostly geared around CO2 tanks, but still applies to all planted tanks. All you do is reduce the total ppm some while maintaining the same ratios. https://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/threads/estimative-index-dosing-guide.15225/ https://barrreport.com/threads/the-estimative-index-of-dosing-or-no-need-for-test-kits.52/ Tom Barr invented this method. This guy has tons of information. https://www.2hraquarist.com/

Depending on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go! That's a good start. That will give you a bit of control. If you really want to get into nutrients, I would recommend dry fertilizers.

Hmm, looking at the picture, I'm thinking the Juncus Repens is not going to work. 😠

Bit taller now. This is when I start getting excited 😆. I'm thinking Bacopa Colorata is going in to this tank. We will see. The diatoms are winning at the moment. I'm also dosing 9ppm PO4 every 3-4 days, nutz! I still have to reduce to 9 species, this coming water change will be a big decision day. I need to start propagating and get a smoother arrangement too.

Imo, the more control you can have on individual components, the better the tank gets.

It will get the job done. You just waste a bit of CO2. No biggie. That's what I started with as well.

For a 75 gallon, I highly recommend a Cerges reactor. You will find that it's a bit more challenging the other ways. As @Sumson has mentioned, those methods are okay, but measuring pH drop seems to be the most accurate way to measure CO2. You want a 1 to 1.5pH drop from degassed to gassed. So you will take a sample of water from your tank, let it sit for 48 hours then pH it. That is your degassed pH. Next, take a water sample after CO2 has been on for about 2 hours, pH it. That is your gassed pH. You will want to measure a difference of about 1 to 1.5pH. I would start slow, around 3 BPS, after 30 minutes, take a pH. Then double the BPS and check again in 30 minutes. Repeat as necessary. When you get close to a 1pH drop, start watching the fish. Increase CO2 a bit slower and watch the fish. If they start sipping the surface, you've gone too far. Just back it down a bit and you should be on target. Here's a great resource for CO2 101. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why The biggest mistake people make is they don't push enough gas out of fear. Just take your time and get it right, it makes a big difference.

If you are confident that the prime works, that should be fine. If you do need to change water, do as above. I think the thrive c is about half of regular thrive. 1 pump per 10 gallons is 1.1ppm PO4, so you very well may be low on PO4. Probably others too. I messaged Nilocg for the per ppm dosing information. I'd imagine they will get back to me tomorrow. I will update you when/if they get back to me.

Thrive C seems to be their leaner option. It definitely has less NO3 in it, as well as the others. With so many frequent water changes, I would dose the incoming water per the instructions. So if you are changing 10 gallons, only dose the amount for 10 gallons. This should keep things more stable. With your live stock, I would not dose GH booster at all. 7-8dGH is plenty, and I would let the Thrive do the rest of the work. If you can, dose the 10 gallons, let it mix, and then test just the 10 gallons for Nitrates, see what you get.

Do you know exactly how many gallons of water you change/ put back into the tank? And what is the GH of your source water before adding booster.

What livestock are in the tank.

@Beardedbillygoat1975 will have some solid suggestions.

Bacopa Colorata, you need this. Get it, trust me.

Just use pool filter sand. Most plants do just fine in it.

Never quit. You should have seen the disaster before a figured a few things out! Not to mention all the poor fish I killed 😜

People! Read this at least 3 times out loud! Ha!

I'm really digging your 100. I'm starting to favor the long flowing look. It's spectacular. And challenging to pull off well.

Thank you. But cut the tank in half and compare the left to the right. Notice how the right side has too many same leaf shape plants? It all kinda runs together. I'm thinking about removing a few of those species and moving the Nymphaea Stellata to the right side. I'm also pretty sure the Bacopa Salzmannii is going into the competition tank. That should free up some room there. And I'm considering ditching the Lindernia. Lindernia is a gorgeous plant, but it wants to grow too wide.