nabokovfan87

I would love to have a nice office with one of those high energy efficient displays and just feel like I'm looking at a nice tank or a nice scene through the window. (or just actually have that view). I get it.

This is pretty common with the tetra strips as well. There is also a high range and low range PH test (with the drops). I tend to not worry about it, but I totally understand the concern. If there is any doubt, as long as the liquid test isn't expired, I would rely on that test (both high range and normal PH range testing results)

Material aside, I know a lot of people are commenting above to solve that one, just make sure (like everything) that whatever goes into the tank you let it leech out oils or anything into a bucket for a bit and clean / rinse it extremely well.

Hoping for the best for you and your new pandas 🙂

Finally found it. You had it dead on. 😂

Or Another option, may or may not work. They are up to v10 now.

Yep. Exactly.

I would just get a go pro then or eufy. I don't think anything else beats their clarity unless you just go get a handheld. Setup a laptop or something, record it directly to the computer

what's the word for it.... old tank syndrome? I would think this is a pretty big nod in the issue and something I've personally ended up happening. Shrimp need minerals and water changes. Stick to weekly or bi-weekly changes if you can. even if it's just 15%.

because of the time of year it is, water could be affected before your tap and it's the type of situation where it could be very sensitive shrimp or it could be a fluke event. I've used easy iron with my amanos and no issues. PH issues, I would expect the shrimp to molt early or often and cause some deaths.

getting a eufy or something might be the way to go. There was a camera that cory had mentioned a long time ago as part of a new business he was watching to see how and what they ended up producing. Juwel has some stuff. Go Pro. The issue is something that does night or does recording. Internal (underwater) vs. exterior. https://www.aquavu.com/micro-Stealth-4.3

Have you ever kept corydoras? chili rasboras and/or white clouds and/or green/cardinal tetras would be awesome. and yes... I understand / also suffer from the libra thing. LOL. Ironically, a bunch of us up in this thread.

I tried to record mine eating breakfast today. They trolled me hard and waited for the food to go into their hide and then ate everything in the back of the tank. It's funny how smart they are.

it may pull out some nutrients for "difficult" plants but purigen really isn't the way to handle what you're going through. give the wood time to soak, let it leech out what it's going to leech out. If you're really worried about the color of the tank, then just go ahead and do water changes over time. You'll get caught up and you'll see the tank adjust. I used purigen a few times and it's definitely more of a hassle than anything. I would only use it in times of severe need because it's a pain to recycle it. I had 2-4 bags I would swap out over and over.

because it is a hang on variety, there's plenty of cool mods or methods to just made it a slow flow filter or polishing pad, plant box. etc. There's some versatility there, but if you have the in tank ones you should be fine with what you have.

I wouldn't use a towel. I've used a rubber pad or cardboard for mine. a towel might put some fuzz into the air intake.

I use suction cups. they are a faint blue with a white clip on them. I got them from petco or petsmart of something, they have a little tab to make them pull off. Found them once, can't find them again. The "airstone" itself is weighted to you don't need to secure the base. I suction cup mine to make sure the splashes aren't in the cutout of my lid and I don't have issues with the wall being splashed to death. I would suggest always using a gang valve (the tees just never worked for me and are so poorly made they have plastic junk in the way that restricts flow. If you have to use a tee, use a metal one. I would use a gang valve and then use a check valve to protect the pump from back pressure. In my current setup, I have a air powered filter setup and then just use the extra feed on the gang valve and feed whatever pressure is left to an airstone without any restriction. Add a check valve to protect the pump, you might need to use a smaller pump. second to that, add another air stone as mentioned above with a T or gang valve. another option is to add another layer of felt / metal washer to the ziss air stone and increase the pressure forcing smaller / fine bubbles. this is totally them! I am going to order more now! lol

Found this (youtube playlist for care guides): as well as the blog posts for care guide tag: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/tagged/care-guides

just vacuum the tank until you're happy with it, then stop when you're done. that white stuff isn't anything to worry about and a sponge filter will handle it extremely well. If you need to, before you do your water change, go ahead and use your hand or some tweezers or paper towel and scrub any surfaces with the white fuzz all over it to get it suspended in the water and no longer attached to the decorations or the cords and stuff. It's pretty much ALWAYS on someones tank if they run an airline.

so what a sponge filter will do: 1. Aeration and oxygen exchange by adding air to the tank (surface of the water moves) 2. polish / clean the water (particles suspended in the water itself 3. host bacteria for the nitrogen cycle 4. host food for smaller fish and shrimp what it wont do: 1. scrape the glass from algae 2. control the amount of waste (the waste is still in the tank 3. vacuum the substrate and remove detritus.

that's perfect! I literally just set the carbon / media bag on the sponge itself to make sure it receives some flow. not on top of the uplift tube, but on the sponge itself. I think the meds specify or the co-op guide, let me double check before I say anything. I would do a 50% water change initially, then 25% every subsequent water change. Glad to help, I know it's stressful, especially when you just want to talk it through with someone.

Minor update, fish are swimming up and down the glass all day. I am feeding a bit heavier, frozen brine, trying to egg them on to give me some eggs.

I like the way you think! Reading the update now. I'm gonna just say (I think I already replied to this thread) but the answer should be 100% yeah you can for anything. did you add a dose for the full tank, just rely on what was already in the tank, or did you add a small bit to the ziss tumbler itself? This is kind of what I've been thinking. Another option (just to mention) is the fluval branded hang-on breader boxes. it's a very old design, but it is a pretty good way to handle the situation.

Filters do a variety of things, especially depending on what kind of filtration. What type of filter were you trying to decide on? Hang on back, sponge, canister, matten?

I saw it on my third of fourth view of the airstone. I was confused because the post said you didn't have anything. Basically you just need time. adding some bacteria from the bottle would help, but keep in mind you're also running meds that are anti-bacterial (as well as the salt in some way if you dose that). I would suggest moving the airstone as low as you can (it is weighted so you dont need to move the suction cup, but that will help. I am willing to bet the betta will be "fine" with anything you put in the tank. What is the air temp outside? That's going to really determine what size heater you have. In my situation, I was running a 20G heater in a 10G because the temp was 55-60 degrees in the house and that was just to get the tank to 70 degrees. If it's warm in your location, the heater is there to make sure the tank doesn't dip too low and it's a safety valve, not a requirement. perfect. I would add to that, dose some salt as well just to help the betta out. It will give the bacteria a bit of a fuss, but it will still be able to cycle the tank. When meds are done, following the water change: 1. Add a filter if you can. In that filter add some carbon so you can remove the meds. Add salt. Add your bacteria for the next 7 days. 2. Add some sort of a media bag if you can with some media (or sponge filter) so there is something for the bacteria to thrive on. If you have a tank already cycled, pull the media from there and add new media to the tank you "borrowed" from. Give the fish about a week to recover, monitor, and then it's up to you when you want to add them to their tank. I think you're fine, just need to lower the airstone if you can. Adding the filter is totally fine and recommended. You should not need stability, it will not help this situation. we've had a few posts on the forums of people dosing stability and doing their water changes with prime, just be careful and note that you need to wait a certain amount of time after dosing each one (about an hour, 24 is better) to reduce stress. You should not have any ammonia/nitrite/nitrate issues, if you do, then that's a different conversation and not a situation where stability is the sole solution