nabokovfan87

@Chick-In-Of-TheSeaa @Cinnebuns Check out those shrimp! Holy smokes.

General use binder. Think gelatin in terms of repashy food. It's what makes it stick together. There's 1-2 seachem meds I wish I had better access to. But you've got a great selection for if anything happens. The other two for me are polyguard and neoplex.

Most tetras will do well at that temp range. I don't know about the angel, probably will work, but just keep in mind they do get a big tank bossy sometimes. Golden rams are a color form of german blue rams that like higher temps than most bolivians. 78-80 I think is the norm for bolivians, but I'm sure some keep them slightly higher. German blue rams, gold rams, dark knight rams, black rams are all forms of the GBR. This is the care guide I'd recommend for them.

Yep. The API one dissolves a little better, but just pay attention to the tanks you want to use it on, as well as how often you need to dose it per treatment. You'll use a lot more than you think.

Temperature itself will increase breeding activity. Feeding less food, feeding more omnivore stuff as opposed to protein, feeding less might help them to calm down. When you get heavy with the food it could trigger them again. Females doing up/downs is normal and fine. That's what you expect to see from corydoras when they are content. It's part of their exploration and playing with the flow as well as trying to find spots when they are breeding. You'll often catch them doing that in the path of air bubbles or that side of the tank. Give them at least 2 weeks of light feeding and to recover a bit. Check for scrapes and sores too just from rubbing against the substrate.

1. Both types of salt 2. Ich-X -Fungus 3. Erythromycin (Maracyn or API) -Gram positive bacterial 4. Kanaplex (Seachem) -Gram negative bacterial 5. Paracleanse / General cure -White worms / flukes 6. Expel-P -roundworms yes there's a difference. Maracyn is the same as API Erythromycin Paracleanse = general cure = 250 mg metronidazole and 75 mg praziquantel. Paraguard looks to be a bit closer to malachite green ParaGuard™ is the only fish and filter safe aldehyde based (10% by weight) parasite control product available (for parasites on fish). Unlike highly toxic and difficult to use formalin based medications, ParaGuard™ contains no formaldehyde or methanol and will not alter pH. ParaGuard™ employs a proprietary, synergistic blend of aldehydes, malachite green, and fish protective polymers that effectively and efficiently eradicates many ectoparasites (e.g. ich, etc.) and external fungal/bacterial/viral lesions (e.g., fin rot).

It came up as a topic in this video. I won't spoil it for you but there's a bit of decent advice on how it can turn green on you if it's in the wrong conditions. It's a fun little video. The part in particular is at 12 minutes in.

Seems like a bad case so I'd lean more toward the 6 treatments that Odd Duck recommends than the typical 3-4 to be sure it's fully cured for all the fish in the tank. You're pulling them from the tank, so I can't be certain what else is going on. At some point it might make sense to put all the rams into the QT tank and monitor anything left in the display as well as a thorough clean for a few days straight.

Fun stuff: Part 1 https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0119468 Part 2 https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26695823/ Part 3 https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29949439/

Cooler temp: 72-74 degrees -barbs -danios -hillstream loaches Warmer temp: 78-80 degrees -Kuhli loaches -Gourami -Rams I would choose one of those or split them into two separate tanks. I think the common advice is 1 lb per gallon. depending on what you're using (whatever company). They should have a calculator you can use to figure out how many bags to buy. If you want 1, 2, or 3" deep substrate, enter in the tank dimensions, etc. I think most barbs can be.

Someone can correct me, but I don't think shrimp have issues with salt. Only snails.

The last time I lost fish was because I heard a splash at night and didn't check. By the time I looked down and thought what was a bug wasn't.... I found far more than one fish on the floor and I was gutted. Literally bugged me to no end because I went and bought the lid designed for the tank and the company that produces it decided to leave gaps. There was a variety of screwups that caused that whole ball of issues to happen. By the end of sorting through all the reasons that led to the deaths, I felt like I failed in the worst way possible. It does happen and it is always going to feel dejecting and like the worst failure if you are the type who deep down seriously cares about the life in the tank. In Cory's words, the only failure is not learning from it and making the same mistake over and over. Things happen, and all you can do is adjust accordingly and take it on the chin. In my case, the fish jumped because I didn't adjust the PH consistently enough with the buffer and because I was leaving the lid open during WCs (and gaps). Fish saw daylight and tried to escape the conditions. A hole the size of a nail file and I swear I had 3 fish jump through it. 5-6 total found on the floor.... devastating to me. Then I went from that followed it up with trying to add shrimp to the tank months later. Within 8 hours the fish chased and killed them all, so I thought. Once I moved fish out, I found half of the shrimp. I still have no idea how many are ok/alive. Two of the worst feelings I've had in the hobby were far too recent for my own comfort. Hopefully we can sort out issues that you're having and help with the things you can control. “Write it on your heart that every day is the best day in the year. He is rich who owns the day, and no one owns the day who allows it to be invaded with fret and anxiety. Finish every day and be done with it. You have done what you could. Some blunders and absurdities, no doubt crept in. Forget them as soon as you can, tomorrow is a new day; begin it well and serenely, with too high a spirit to be cumbered with your old nonsense. This new day is too dear, with its hopes and invitations, to waste a moment on the yesterdays.” -Ralph Waldo Emerson ^^ I spend a lot of days waking up and needing to focus by reading quotes like this. One day at a time.

Secondary topic of what plants might do better in your water. This is from an article specifically about GH: https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/ph-kh-gh-tds/gh-explained Same website, an article about KH: https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/ph-kh-gh-tds/kh-explained Managing water parameters well allows one to keep sensitive livestock in a planted tank.

Unfortunately this is common for a few reasons. The most common one I've seen / experienced is PH (causes a weird molt) or a female that is literally refusing to molt for the sake of the eggs and then she gets stuck because the molt is too thick/hard and she cannot molt anymore. I think the vast majority of female shrimp deaths fall into that second category. Essentially female shrimp die from stress of some capacity. Most of that causes molting too early or not enough. For something like amanos you can see them get almost black because of how thick the shell gets. On blue shrimp I have heard/been told that they do darken as they are about to molt, then a bright, vibrant blue after molt. What was the PH prior to adding the CC? Apart from buffering KH, what is the reason for adding CC? Not a cause of any issue whatsoever. Not the cause of PH shifting or anything. Yes and no. My question would be how do you use "aged water"? What is the specific setup to age it? Is it oxygenated? My guess is something is going on with the tap (weather, rain, snow, etc affecting things before it gets to you) or something like farmland contaminants. what is the sand? BDBS? (not saying it is, but just a note that for shrimp, because of the metals, you'd want to use something very much inert/safe, some batches of BDBS might not be.) If it is BDBS, take a little bit out and dry it, then run it under a decently strong magnet to test for any metals. You can also check and see if you notice any rusted particles. @knee Which Hygro is that do you think? Hygrophila corymbosa 'Siamensis'? Last question, I apologize, I know there's a lot of them. Do you have any other females that look milky at all? This one passed, the flesh usually turns white, but do you have any alive that are milky white under the shell? here's an example of what it'd look like.

Coffee made, out of coffee beans again. 😞 I spent the day helping the little one with school work, cooking class, so that's fun. During a break while work is uploaded to google classroom I went in to work on the tank. I realized I hadn't had food all day and was very clumsy. Just felt like I was going to make a mistake. First time I've done maintenance on the tank post moving it, and so everything was taking a little bit of getting used to. I moved the plants around, I tried to check on everything. I fixed the rock pile a little bit, just a bunch of little pesky work. Which leads me to the entire point of posting, I have a very good tip for everyone. You know how you have that prefilter and how a lot of people use a plastic bag or something to get it around the sponge. Go grab yourself a fine mesh seachem net, never need a bag again and that muck isn't going anywhere. Worked so well I even got to scoot the little amano out of the net. It's kind of fun to see the little ones compared to the adults. Night and day difference. (about the size of a full grown neo I'd imagine) I still have a bit of a struggle trying to get back around the wood to get the sponge off the tidal, but that'll be a little better after the move to the 75. I'm kind of excited for the bigger space. I can tell how cramped this 29G is. 😞

He is epic. One of those people I wish I could hear talk. That's ridiculously cool!

who was the speaker! That's awesome. Congrats on the find.

I've seen someone use bonsai akadama, but not the sand you've shown. Very interesting! It might be high in silicates or something and kick off a bunch of algae, but only time will tell.

Did you see the second show on the same topic!!!???? (The OA) Very cool little series' I was watching the mockinjay part 2 and the historian from travelers is a character, really awesome to see him pop up.

8 hours per day is a good place to be and the max for me is 10 hours. The plants you have are all very slow growers. Moss will be a good gauge for your lighting, if you see the lime green / bright tips on the moss the you're doing well. Don't do anything different, except for cutting back on the light duration and report back on how the algae behaves to that change. Keep the plants clean of algae and they should grow.... that's the goal. Get new growth. Once you're at that point, then we are close to balanced and it'll be easier to review deficiencies and get advice that's helpful.

Wild Oscars are such beauties if you can find a good one. I would nudge it in this direction. I'll toss in a video below, 3 wild oscars, really unique and very small/young. Just really cool interesting fish.

75G Stocking: 3-4 SAEs (I think there was 5, don't recall at the end), 20-25 tiger barbs (depends on how much the tidal skimmer allowed to sleep), 1 BNPs, 1 RLPs, 2 Clown Plecos, Odessa barbs, 1 white cloud, Panda Corydoras Horde, borneo loaches, amano shrimp, and last but not least Grace the RTBS. Decor was minimal but I was trying to base it off of the California Kelp Forests. Tall stem plants, lava rocks, and beach sand. I also had mopani wood in the tank as well as a handful of pleco caves. Club panda was the most fun cave and the hillstream loach played security alongside the panda parent. I think I enjoyed this tank so much because it was what I cut my teeth on getting plants to grow. My absolute favorite thing was deciding to buck up (mindset, not money) and get a CO2 system. It really changed how I viewed things and I was so worried about putting everything together. It was very intimidating and ended up being 15 minutes of work and a lot of fun. It felt like adding a chemistry set to the tank! I think the "fun" part of this tank was the sheer chaos that was filtration. 5 filters. 6 if I was just bored and wanted more bubbles or circulation. The fish were extremely happy with the tank and I spent many nights just sitting there watching them do their things. Corydoras hanging out on the top of the ziss bubble bio filters taking a nap and the tiger barbs half asleep floating around in slow motion. I remember many nights just in awe of everything. A densely planted, but with some open space for upper water fish is worth the effort. I don't think many would believe me, but SAEs are like beached whales and can't even be bothered to swim around half the day. Big female tiger barbs are the same way. Once they have had food, sometimes they just want to be away from the group and get some chill time while they incubate eggs. I wish I could find more photos, but I have a ton of memories. I don't understand and I'm very sorry this happened to you! Feel free to send me a message. I got some Rocky clips around here somewhere.... 🙂 "Are you tired?" - quote from one of my favorite movies and very applicable. Mystery Alaska is the movie.

Mine as well. 🙂

Hikari has some shrimp based food. they have crab or shrimp cuisine, both work. If you find the crab one, just crush it a little bit. I also highly recommend checking out Mark's Shrimp Tanks on youtube (also just started putting his info on a website). He's very easy to understand and you can look up pretty much anything on every single shrimp type. Goldfish food can have some calcium in it, repashy powder is good (just check the ingredient list) and it comes in powder form. Discus food also might work and is in a shrimp friendly shape (granules) as well as some food for cichlids (northfin has some 1mm pellets). Betta food also small granules. Just check the ingredients and get one that seems to work well for you. I like the ShrimpKing standard food as well, good ingredient list and has some stinging nettle to help the shrimp specifically.

Hello hello, welcome! In terms of cover for the shrimp and stress, how does the tank look? Do they have a lot of places to hide? Do you feed any foods specifically for the shrimp? From ACO Blog: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/breeding-red-cherry-shrimp From Aquatic arts: I would try to lower PH slightly and start there as well as foods.