Scapexghost

Im gonna try losing 20 lbs

I've had good success with tiger lotus. I couldn't grow it with kit tank lights but any light designed to grow plants should do fine. Heres a picture of mine in my 20 with a nicrew light. It was just the bulb when i put it in on 11/11. It's not exactly a weed but its got good color. I don't have a timer on this tank of even dose ferts, so under better conditions you'll probably get faster growth.

Both can be done. 78 is on the higher end for zebra danios but they do fine for years at that temp. 8 danios or cherry barbs would be fine. Really you could do 24 no problem. With schooling fish, if you can fit one, you can fit 20. Of course you'll have to do more water changes but schooling fish won't fight for territory or take up additional swim space. Cory often talks about a 75 gallon w/ 700 cardinal tetras. Schooling fish will feel more comfortable the more of their own kind present so as long as you can keep water parameters in line, the more the better. As bottom dwellers, Kuhli loaches won't interfere too much w/ the barbs or danios swim space so I wouldn't worry about that either.

I would first try to simply dose more fertilizer. Nitrogen and potassium are the main ingredients in an all-in-one fertilizer. If that doesn't help i would consider switching fertilizers. If that doesnt help then i would use additional nutrient specific liquid fertilizers.

I would do a type of tetra. The smaller the better, since they'll be less likely to prey on fry, so I would do neon tetras just bc theyre the cheapest and most widely available, but you can basically do any type of tetra you want outside of vampire and exodon tetras. Some tetras would be better than others. Smaller and less active tetras will be better than larger or more active tetras.

Tight end doesn't make the teams lopsided. Both teams still have 11 players no matter what. Basically, the offense have 5 players that are not allowed to catch the ball, called lineman. They can only block. If you want a 6th blocker (or 7th or 8th) you put in a tight end. Tight ends can catch which make them a powerful tool in clever offensive schemes. So TEs, like Eric Ebron of the steelers and Kyle Pitts of the falcons are effectively WRs as the rarely block. The defensive equivalent of a TE is a Strong-side Linebacker. The "strong side" refers to the side with the TE.

Both depend on the types of plants you want to keep

Rosy barbs could be a good alternative

7.4 pH should be fine for the tank. If anything, your lucky to have a pH of 7.4, since it means you'll be able to keep >95% of fish in the hobby w/o worrying about pH. In terms which order to add the fish, i don't think it's a huge concern. Adding the platies first is a good idea and i would wait until algae builds up before adding the plecos.

It can work, make sire to add all 5 bettas at the same time and make sure they all have similarly sized fins. This can be a pretty difficult setup to pull off so i wouldn't recommend it unless you already have experience keeping fish. Most importantly, don't add the fish the same day you set up the tank. You say you have another tank, so i assume you have experience keeping fish, if not make sure to research cycling tanks.

I added these ludwigia plants to my 20 gallon on Nov 12th of this year and i haven't seen any noticeable growth from them. Instead they shed most of their leaves in the first few days and got overrun w/ hair algae. I decided to remove them and try another plant but after removing them it was clear they have a pretty solid root structure so maybe i was premature in removing them. Its a 20 tall with a nicrew classicled w/o a timer (around 12 hours of lights), no ferts, inert gravel, hard water, and a moderately heavily stocked tank. So should i give these guys another go? Would i need a timer and ferts to care for them, or would i simply have no chance of success w/o stronger lighting or co2?

I am a big proponent of using salt in freshwater aquariums for medicinal proposes. However, using aquarium salt is nearly as expensive as using true medications. Rock salt on the other hand is much cheaper. I don't believe aquarium salt is a scam, the additional price is due to its purity. I know rock salt contains other minerals, but since the fish i'd use salt on are usually hard water fish live african cichlids and livebearers, i assume these minerals are not a concern, and if anything potentially beneficial. Is there anything else i should be concerned about when it comes to using rock salt?

So the question is what to do if a filter breaks and all the bacteria inside it dies? What i would do is fix/replace the filter and not feed for 3 days to give the bacteria inside the tank time to seed the filter.

Scapeghost is the name of a yugioh card. The x is silent

Id start with 3-7. More females than males.

Snails are beneficial so unless you hate looking at them id let them be. Snail populations will settle overtime.

I watch it. My favorite episode was the twins, mainly bc of the animation. It was animated by studio trigger, which makes a lot of fun stuff. Thats probably my favorite aspect of the anthology, that every episode is animated by a different studio. There are some interesting ideas in all the episodes and ep 2 is the only one i didnt enjoy

Pretty sure that's jojo. One of my faves. I don't watch much anime older the Evangelion but Legend of the Galactic Heroes is one of my all time favorites

Ich and other external parasites are much more noticeable on black mollies than other mollies. Really active fish like barbs and danios are also fairly easy to diagnose since they'll be much less active when sick. Less active fish, especially ones that lay on the bottom often are more difficult to notice when they are sick. Fish with very specific behaviors can also be easy to diagnose. For example, african butterfly fish will always be at the top of the tank, flush with the surface of the water, and they will swim very little outside of feeding time. The moment the swim downward at all, you know that they are stressed.

I would double the salt dosage. I honestly doubt that anything will help at this point but it is worth a shot.

This will be a cube tank, or very close. This is very different than a traditional 55, which is long and narrow. I would think of it more like stocking a 20h, and just doubling everything. I wouldn't recommend african cichlids, since they are neither peaceful nor low maintenance. If you did want to do african cichlids, your best bet would be small mbunas. You could do angelfish. I would recommend finding one small schooling/shoaling fish, one group of bottom dwellers, one centerpiece fish, and one algae eater. For the schooling/shoaling fish most tetras, rasboras, psuedemogil rainbows, livebearers, or danios would work. Four the centerpiece an angelfish, dwarf gourami, dwarf cichlid, or betta would work. For the bottom dwellers small loaches or cories would be good. And for the algae eater i would add a bn pleco, although i would wait a couple months before adding it. Bc its a cube i would plant it. I would plant it anyway but with a cube you can more easily do background, midground, and foreground plants.

Fish get nitrogen from protein in fish food

The bacteria in aquariums get nitrogen from ammonia and nitrite. Most forms of bacteria that can utilize nitrogen cannot do so in an ordinary aquarium.

Nitrogen is a very stable gas, so very few organisms can interact with it

From my experience young livebearers always look female. I know Cory has said that non-dominant male swordtails with supress their male features in order to avoid confrontation, and will later express those male traits once other males are removed.