tnnlynch

I was thinking of using a UGF for a 10g shrimp tank with only column feeder plants and gravel. Debating between that and a nano sponge filter I already have.

Our washer machine and water heater disasters eclipsed any fish tank issue I have ever had or am likely to have. Thankfully our basement carpet is industrial, our water alarms worked and we were home to limit those issues. I had good luck with my python when I had a tank upstairs but now that it is in the basement I am back to using buckets for draining and refilling.

Your fluval should lay on the tank frame so I don't think the tank lid strength is an issue. Cory's link for www.tapplastics.com listed a few hinges that could work.

Thanks for the input.

The dragon stone could be adding to the GH. Since it's on the edge of 150 moving to 300 from the tap it's hard to know.

That has a lot of potential. Remember to build in some space for you to relax when your down there after the maintenance. 😀

I am aiming for 75 degrees. From my temperature controller and digital thermostats, it is varying by about 2-3 degrees during the day. Plans for CPD, Leopard Danio, Cherry Barbs and Corys. Amano shrimp, nerite/mystery snails and possibly a hillstream loach as an algae crew. Cycle seems to be establishing well with ammonia ->N02 -> NO3 and being consumed. Leopard Danios and snails will probably be the first in. Extremely hard water from the tap so that might limit some choices.

My last tank (way back in early 2000's) was an extremely high tech setup with lots of light, CO2 and hand mixed ferts - very fast growth. Maintenance though was too high after a few years given my work schedule. This is a restart for an 'easy' tank. I just need more patience I think. I should mention the american frogbit has exploded in growth. Adding new leaves, clusters and now was 6 inch roots.

Thanks. Now I just have to keep it this nice. 😃 The American frogbit seems a bit smaller than the Amazon. I'm sure though it will be more than I need after a few weeks.

Got all my plants in, did a Hydrogen Peroxide dip, let them rest in a bucket of water for a day, treated them to an alum soak and finished setting up the tank. Two bags of eco-complete topped with black gravel and some rinsed dragon stone. The base of the tank is eggcrate with some dense foam under the large rocks - partially to raise the stones and to keep plants from rooting under them if I want to redecorate. Planted Java Ferns, Amazon Sword, dwarf Sagittaria, Cryptocoryne lucens, Pogostemon stellatus octopus, Valisneria and various Anubias. The POS and Valisnaria looked a little worse for wear when they arrived compared to everything else. One of the POS stems melted and died the rest came back and is growing well. The Valisnaria died back to the gravel but there are a few green shoots so I am not giving up all hope. About half of the dwarf Sagittaria has melted the rest is still green. I will have to wait and see if any comes back. Added some American Frogbit at the one week mark. That doesn't seem to ship well as 1/2 were essentially DOA and did not recover. The survivors are shooting out roots and new leaves though. Started the fishless cycle off using Fritz Fish Fuel and bacteria. Started off by adding Easy Green (3ml), Easy Iron (3ml) and easy Carbon (3ml) once a week after water change. Ammonia went to zero but my NO3 (40) and NO2 (10) are rather high still. My KH dropped to 80 after the water change but my GH is extremely hard (300). My tap water GH is 150. Lighting is a Fluval 3.0. Total light is 10 hours. One hour sunrise, 7 hours at 50% (no blue), 2 hour sunset. Room has no natural sunlight but indirect lighting can be on for a few additional hours every now and then. Could GH be this high just from the fertilizers? Think my lighting is to high or too low? Thoughts or comments welcome, Tom

True. People could be filling them on uneven surfaces that warp and few people comment when satisfied. Seeing as I am looking for small tanks it's probably too cheap to pass up. I believe Cory just bought quite a few of the 40 gal breeders as they are so cheap. It would be educational to hear what his failure rate (if any) is after they are set up.

Thanks everyone. I hope to reproduce my old tank. Just on a smaller scale.

Returning to the hobby after quite a while as I have retired. Had a 120 galleon planted tank back around 2003. I plumbed and wired myself. Enriched substrate, hand mixed ferts and CO2. Was a huge time sinkhole but it was going gangbusters for about 2 years until it imploded while I was on vacation. Sold it all shortly after that due to increasing work commitments not to mention frustration with starting over. I have been watching way too many videos lately on the co-op channel but I have learned quite a bit. I never realized just how hard I was pushing the tank especially consider it's age. Planning on starting another much smaller tank. Hopefully keeping it on the easy side this time. Tom

I had a glass tank sump leak on me years back. Damage wasn't that bad due to the water alarm we had but it was a bit traumatic at the time. Definitely want to set up a small glass tank this time and not acrylic monster I had then. Your new tank looks good. Hopefully it it works! Is the black frame plastic or metal? Tom

This is what has me nervous about buying petco tanks. Multiple fairly recent reviews detailing total disasters with leaking tanks after a week or month being filled have me hesitating to buy at any price. Most of the recent happy reviews are for reptiles or hamsters. Unfortunately I can't fill it with water to test as it could freeze in my garage right now.