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I have fallen in love with these tetras. Very active. I dig their colors. Not shy or skittish in the least bit. Fun little fish. Hyphessobrycon Peugeoti

Caveat: I'm speaking as a hobbyist and not a microbiologist, but I think bacterial colonies like this are more resilient than we sometimes give them credit for. They're wet, there's a food source, and there's dissolved oxygen in the water. It's not flowing over them as rapidly as normal, but I'd have to think that, worst case scenario, you'd get a small amount of die back, but most of them would be fine. Remember that people also talk about how much nitrifying bacteria can be found on every surface -- glass, substrate, hardscape, plants -- and those bacteria are in basically the same circumstances as the ones on your filter media are now. If you want to be cautious, it's probably not a bad idea to cut back either the amount or frequency of feeding (or both) and increase your frequency of water testing, but if the tank has been running a while, I'd bet you'll be fine.

It's a 100ga tank, so i didn't think it was overkill. Those suckers are like the old Scrubbing Bubbles commercial! 😳

Here’s the thing, you’ve posted about this before which tells a more experienced keeper that you’re a bit bored with your setup and would like to tinker with it a bit. More fish doesn’t necessarily mean more satisfaction. I suggest breeding because with these guys, you can use small totes/shoebox for fry. Once you implement an actual project, you’ll challenge your mind and get a bit more satisfaction out of it. Another reason I suggest this is I’m pretty sure your cycle is out of wack according to your previous posts as well. Become an expert with what you got and then stretch your tentacles once you master the tank/task at hand. This isn’t meant to be mean or anything, I just remember the same behaviors in myself and other newbie’s around me at the time. This is a big reason why people have many tanks. You could theoretically have a different tank to work on daily. However, when finances, space, or time is limited, I always look to get a project going in said aquarium.

You are correct 💯

Shrimp are invertebrates actually if I am thinking correctly. I think… lol this is what I read. Invertebrates are animals that don't possess a vertebral column (backbone). Freshwater aquariuminvertebrates can be divided into 2 groups: molluscs (snails) and crustaceans (shrimp, crayfish and crab).

It will effect if your ph is low. Shells would dissolve, and increase kh and gh as they are basically rich in calcium carbonate. If your ph is high enough, you will barely notice any effect really. Some shells may have very sharp edges or tips. Be careful of them potentially hurting fish and try to not include anything feels sharp if you wanna use them.

Breed the wcmm, then you’ll have more.

imo, for any fish that gets to 8" or so, its just unfair to the fish to stick it in something like a 29. will it live, yes, will it have much room to swim, no.

12 June 2024 (Day 37) White worm and blackworm feeding. Puffers move in fast forward when a sibling tells them to clear the way

Easy fish to keep and in my experience they will get along with all other tankmates. They will put on territorial displays to each but it will not result in damage. They do come from high flow environments, but that is not needed tlin the aquarium, they are not even the best swimmers and behave more like a goby.

Sorry. I’m a bit slow Yeah. Me too. Land plants I can do. Still learning aquatic plants

@Tony s my thumbs are as black as my x wife’s soul. All the plants in my aquarium go straight in. If they survive, cool. If not, I might try again. I’m definitely a fish first kinda dude.

Possibly using the reverse respiration method that many here like? Which involves soaking in seltzer water instead of bleach. @mynameisnobody you know how to do this I believe?

My ammonia is 1 ppm. Nitrite 0, ph same at 7.6 ppm. I will add more ammonia later tonight. It is really cloudy though for some reason. But we’ll see. Update :).

When they molt and begin removing themselves from the shell the legs become immobilized. They don’t normally move from their spot while molting unless disturbed or have trouble molting.

Since you're going to collect them from the beach, I'd also give them a smell test. If they stink inside, the old animal is probably still there. I wouldn't use those

I dont think 29g is suitable for any of those fish you mentioned really. If you google enough, you can find so many people keeping even goldfish in a 1 liter bowl online. You will always find numbers or care guides being recommended everywhere. Many people that love to comment on or write about stuff don't even have first hand experience with such fish. I did keep blood parrots in the past (my biggest regret along with discus sadly in this hobby) and I have goldfish. I don't have fh but I do know 3 people who has/had it. I don't think anything below 40g is suitable for a fancy goldfish that doesnt grow crazy big, but long body ones basically needs a very big tank or a pond. Ideally, I think even my 160 liter tank started feeling optimal in less than a year and I dont know what to do with mine in the future and they are indeed fancy goldfish. The reason why maybe it is adviced to keep goldfish at 29g because many goldfish today barely can even swim properly due to being bred to look "cute" with horrible effects on the fish's health overall, and even on the most basic aspects of its life like swimming or seeing. But for more normally shaped bodied healthier goldfish, bigger tanks or even ponds are awesome based on where you live ofc. Flowerhorns are basically kept at just barebottom no decoration tanks. Because their human made hybrid nature, their huge heads are fragile. I believe that's being the main reason why, not many people are willing to keep a single fish in a just zero decoration fish only tank even barebottom and spare a big tank at home just for that. Most people don't have many tanks like so many of us do here, so they want to utilise their space at home and the species they keep based on the conditions. FHs are fairly active swimmers, unlike many fancy goldfish. I know some might not agree with me, but hybrid fish commonly tend to be already problematic as they are already. Even going further and having a "short body" would make it even worse. The look comes with MANY problems as it is basically just the look to the eye, but overall completely more health issues to the fish itself. I would sincerely encourage to focus on optimal conditions and best care rather than focusing on the minimums. Meeting bare minimums is not the same with providing an ideal environment if you ask me. I could sustain my life based on living on meeting my own minimum requirements, but I wouldn't want that my whole life by any means. Especially considering we choose to keep fish, regardless of their will to be kept as is, at least we should try to provide our best, and minimum requirements are not meeting the best standards by any means. Personally, if I am only able to meet the minimums for a fish with such size and activity level, I would rather pass and try to set up a tank with smaller species that would find it heavenly

I've had them maybe 2 weeks. They are in my fish room, so not much opportunity to tweak the lights there. I believe the males get much redder when they want to spawn.

My suspicion is the same as above. The bacteria should be mostly fine. It is well worth keeping a spare impeller kit, aquastop assembly, o ring gasket and hose assembly on hand for oopses like this…. With those parts on hand you can pretty much turn an oops into a halfhour inconvenience at worst…

yes, they will affect it as they break down. but given what you want to keep it's not a big deal. and your ph is slightly basic already, so they'll break down slowly. I'd be careful of the type of tetra you want; some can be more sensitive to ph than others. If you stay with the more common ones, you should be good for cleaning, a good rinse in the sink should be fine.

Yes sea shells can effect ph but it depends on how many and the size of the aquarium. Tbh it may take time when the sea shells start to break down.

I'm still figuring out what to do with plants, but I did pot two and put outside. Figured I'd share a picture.

limited due to tank size, but shrimp are fun and maybe up the numbers of WCMM's.

Pleco tanks need wood and current. Hypancistrus will be the ones needing 50% water changes. You can put powerhead pumps on sponges if that’s how you’re filtering them. Those sponges will get dirty quickly. I usually use canisters on pleco tanks. Provide current, filtration- bio, mechanical and with some Purigen chemical. Caridina will not need big water changes so I’d focus on the Neos and the Fish for your water change system. The drippers for Caridina like an auto-tipoff makes complete sense. That’s where a float valve could be very useful. I know Mark’s Shrimp Tanks has gotten away from even the going wisdom of 10% weekly water changes on his Taibee shrimps and is just doing top offs with R/O. He’s letting moss and plants do the nutrient export for the tanks which makes a lot of sense.

Like with pretty much everything else, "it depends" is often the best answer. If you take a 75 or 90-gallon tank and fill it with rocks, driftwood, etc., the fish may end up with less swimming room than in a 29-gallon tank that has nothing but water in it. You might get an especially lethargic flowerhorn who hangs out in one spot no matter how big the tank is. (In general, the smarter fish tend to hang out where they're fed. I've seen koi ponds where some koi never leave the area of the autofeeder. "What's that you say? There's lots of swimming space over there? That's nice, but the food comes out here, so I'll just be here. You go swim over there if you'd like.") Nothing we do in the aquarium hobby comes even remotely close to replicating even the smallest lake, river, or stream. Any tank is going to be cramped by those standards. If you can keep a flowerhorn happy and healthy in a 29-gallon tank, go for it. They're typically kept in even smaller tanks as they're raised and held for sale. A 29-gallon tank all to himself may feel like an ocean to a flowerhorn used to being kept in a smaller tank. By the way, Predatory Fins on YouTube visited a number of Flowerhorn breeders on their recent Asian trip, so you can see how the breeders keep their flowerhorns. Is a 29-gallon tank ideal? No. Is a 55, 75, 90, 120, 300-gallon tank ideal? No. Nothing is as good as a lake or river. There is the slight advantage of not having things trying to eat you in a smaller aquarium while in the wild pretty much everything is trying to eat you. For pretty much every fish a bigger aquarium is better, but nothing we do will ever replicate the volume they have in the wild. If you're comfortable keeping a flowerhorn in a 29 and the fish is happy and healthy, go for it.

You can keep a large fish in a small aquarium and it will survive. However that's not exactly ideal for it's health and welfare which is probably why the cichlid forum guys are giving you an earful

I think it is due to activity levels. Fancy goldfish and blood parrots are kinda derpy swimmers. Not graceful at all. If you go to regular goldfish. The tank requirement gets much higher. I have thought about getting a flowerhorn. They are very active and can get bored in a small tank. Becoming destructive. The other thing to think about. When buying a flowerhorn. You’re getting a pet. Kinda like getting a dog. Not a small schooling fish. They will interact with you constantly. Would you keep a dog in a small pen? A large of tank as you can get would be better.

Glad to hear it! I actually ended up taking down this pond due to turn the work shop/office into a guest house rental. I did another pond that was 10x8 instead. Between those i learned a few things. 1. using 2x6 was much stronger and prevented all bowing on the smaller pond. So if you can afford to do that. Plus i didn’t need top bracing. 2. the 45 mil liner is amazing and super strong don’t cheap out on s lesser quality. 3. The add a was to purge the barrels from the bottom. I ended up installing a gate valve. This will make cleaning and maintenance a ton easier. 4. use cut in bulkheads. I used one for an overflow but wished i’d have done one lower so i didn’t have to keep a pump running in the pond itself. Smear on the aquascape silicone in bulk and you’ll have no issues. 5. you can’t use too many screws. If you have any other questions let me know. Looking forward to watching your build. Here are some pics from the second one i did in my new office.

Thanks @Guppysnail. Yeah none of the water puppies starve here lol. Puffers are big on messy eating so it works well (until i find a mate for him and have to figure out how to catch the limia out). I feed +/- 8 frozen tilapia strips, 20 small clams in shell, 8 large frozen crayfish, 50 ramshorns/malaysian trumpet snails, and 100 earthworms a week for the 2 cross river puffers. The limia probably eat 10% of all of it as it blows a4ound the water column

6/11 epsom salt added 6/12 10 almond leaves added

It’s full 🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇🎇. It looks incredible!!!!! I almost cried it looks good, and my minnows were like “dang, and here we are with a lil 10g 😂😂😂. Here it is.

I had a flower horn in a 75 gallon. He wasn’t short bodied and he was quite large. Personally I’d never go with anything less than 75 for a full grown adult. With that said, a 40 gallon would be adequate for quite a while. When I would be looking to go bigger than 40: 1- it looks cramped and is bumping into stuff. 2- water parameters dependent on your indefinite water changes. If you can’t skip a water change because your parameters will go out of wack then I’d go larger. I would approach this more of a see as I go, but I would not rule out needing something bigger.

29/30 is my max,,, which is why I've been so pressed on this. I could *maybe* go up to a 40 if it seems like the best thing. But this is all theoretical at this point. But going back to what I mentioned on the OP, was that proportionally a 30Long for a short-body FH is the same moving room as a regular sized FH in a 75G.

As a result of my drop of interest in the hobby, I decided to do some changes. I will downgrade one tank at some point, for sure get the plants out of it, get a new tank to replace the cube tank I am most unhappy with, shuffle my fish around, try to gift some and redo layout in my largest tank. I went a bit from "nothing" to "too much", as I am now considering how to properly approach this, but I need a chain reaction to happen for all to work out. I need to replace a filter in my Asian tank (JKA-IP200 with a large sponge) with an eheim 2213 that has been sitting in my cabinets for years now (bought it second hand at amazing deal, never used it), so I can take the JKA and move it to a new tank. This is step one. Given I will be replacing some hoses and buying/splitting filter media with my existing canister filter 2217 on my largest tank, I will have to play around in there. The long term plan is to remove all my corydoras from this tank, and to do so I will most likely tear it down to catch them, and therefore I will use this opportunity to replace substrate, remove some plants, plant new plants, redo the scape. Not sure about the end result yet. I also need to tear down the cube tank, move the fish in order to move the new tank on the cabinets, that also need to be fortified. Which means I need to redo a tank to which some or most of the fish will go to, even temporarily. To redo that tank I need to sell or move my rabbits snail, figure out a scape, build it, or at least part of it, plant it and move the existing fish and the fish from other tanks there. Sounds a bit like too much work, need to figure out precisely how to do it. Luckily have some ikea containers and I think I can for some time just stick some fish in other tanks and redo them all later. Will see. Anyways, I took this as an opportunity to do a much needed cleanup of my aquarium cabinets, that are deep and filled with stuff collected over the years. I found this, no clue what is it, I got it as part of a bundle of stuff I bought second hand. I am trying to sell it off, I think it has to do with CO2 I also have the empty canister, some hoses, some filter media, some sponges and all weird hose connections I need to figure out or replace or measure One would be surprised what all is in ones cabinets Let the fun begin

We have a chemical engineering research lab that works solely with hydrogen and I happen to be the safety manager for it... Gotta say, this is the first I've ever heard of infusing water with H2 and then drinking it, and I would be extremely cautious. H2 is very reactive and will attack all sorts of materials that one normally uses in lab settings because they are assumedly non-reactive... stuff like plastic, rubber, metal, it all gets broken down unless you use special materials that are specifically resistant to hydrogen bonding. The same thing is going to be happening inside of you. I would assume that, because nobody is outright dying yet, the concentration of dissolved hydrogen is too low to have any immediate negative effects. If it interacts with your mucous layers in your digestive tract, you arent necessarily going to feel it but that could affect nutrient uptake, membrane irritation and protection, and its almost certainly going to nuke a good percentage of your gut flora. Maybe the net effect of all that is positive? I don't know, but I would be very cautious until careful studies have been done. A quick net search looks like a lot of this is new and not well documented, plenty of anecdotal claims and such. I dont even want to think about the fact that H2 will escape through pretty much any solid material (like a steel cannister) over time, so it is absolutely going to be passing into your bloodstream, too. I would point out that it is generally not advisable to spend long hours in a 100% oxygen tent, and doing so can damage lung tissue and even your eyes, and eventually will kill you through oversaturation. Dissolved hydrogen is going to be way lower concentration of course, but then again, our bodies have evolved substantial mechanisms to deal with molecular oxygen. Molecular hydrogen? Much less so I believe. I just wouldn't do this, not with my health at risk.

I often wonder about so much “Accepted Wisdom” in this hobby. Someone reads posited “Wisdom” and vociferously defends it…. And reading multiple care guides often finds them in conflict with one another… I am often left wondering where the data is to back up assertions… Where is the data supporting that Shoaling fish need at least 6 of a species…. Do they fall off the cliff with 5? I dont know…It is easy enough to comply with 6… As to why the recommendation for minimum tank size for different species with similar body size? Could be due to temperament, activity levels.. Personally I have a hard time contemplating keeping an 8 inch fish in a 29 gallon tank. The majority of my fish in my 29 gallons top out under an inch, with a few approaching 2 inches…

Well my tank is heavily planted, on top of all the hardscape, so excavating is no longer an option. Also not to sure how well my fish friends would like a cloud of sediment and bacteria in their water column. Next time I set up a tank, I am really going to take it slow during the planning-to-hardscape phases. I will also try the Barr "dry-cycling" method; I would love to start with a thick established carpet of foreground plants.

Looks great! Throw some plants in there and you’ll be golden😉

I don't think there is a time table for a totally natural tank. This would take far more time than your lifespan allows, and suck the joy out of the hobby! I myself like to go as natural as possible (within limits) & let nature do most of the work! For this IMO you have to progress sloooooowly at the start. Let the tank not only cycle, but then allow it to mature with a few plants and a cleanup crew. Let the detritis build up, the snails will eat it and poop it out; essentially making new dirt. Let the algae grow, resist the urge to scrape it, let the cleanup crew do its thing. Grow your ecosystem, understand this is the tanks foundation; its awkward teenage year. Its going to happen weather you interven or not. IMO constantly micromanaging this stage makes it worse!! Id let this period go for 6 months to a year. Take this time to concentrate on your water quality, flow, aeration, ect. Maybe add a few guppies to stress the system, and grow your bio load. Now heres my limit, fertilization! Contrary to FF, fertilizer is not poison. Not when adding the proper doses and doing simple routine maintenance on a regular basis. It is side stepping the slow process of letting nature break down organics/animals and minerals so other progressively more advanced species can live. From this point you can add more advanced plants, preferably lots of them! But if you are not fertilizing them, doing water changes, routine maintenance, ect (simulating nature) algae will over take your aquarium. Thats not saying you won't have some. Algae is incredibly healthy for an eco system. But having a robust cleanup crew and the time you took to grow your ecosystem should help reduce the manual labor involved. Thats what I mean by natural aquarium, letting nature take care of what can be resolved relatively quickly. But intervening with things that take decades to happen. Like organics breaking down small enough to feed other plants. I wouldn't say there are signs to progress. My first post was mainly showing how excruciatingly slow a completely natural environment grows into a pristine aquatic environment. As mentioned above Diana Walsted book is an excellent read and will give you a great prospective why a 100% natural aquarium is unrealistic.

the other thing about using the equilibrium. your calcium and magnesium don't evaporate. so, if you're adding it to every water top off, you're actually increasing your gh constantly. for my ro, I add only enough equilibrium to increase the water I'm changing to the desired level. ie... if I make a 30g tote of ro water I add enough to change the tote to the desired gh. if my gh is too high already, sometimes I don't add it at all. and I never add it to top offs If you really want to know what you have and don't have, they make water drop test of almost every mineral you could have. a couple time use those and you could really dial in what you actually need

Normally male betta will do that if they see their reflection but the gills would be flared. @Vonz1

Never seen those stickers before I started my tank with my rocks and wood, as soon as I saw nitrite on my test I planted my tank and kept testing until I saw nitrate. I still haven't had ammonia show but I also spent 3 months before I had fish lol.

Ya. It’s getting worse as I get older. Used to not be so bad. Last month I climbed a feed bin to fix its rope. It wobbled. I was frozen in place for 10 minutes. It’s only 18 feet tall 😂 And you’re up there trying to figure out why the heck you can’t move. Stupid brain

I never thought this would see the light of day, but years ago I did an undergrad study on building super-hydrophobic organic modified films on glass. We used a siloxane bond to attach the modified organic molecules, and found that treating the glass (after very thorough cleaning) in a strong acid greatly increased the bonding rate. This is because the acid hydroxylizes the terminating oxygen groups found on the glass surface, so from Si=O to Si-O-H. The hydroxyl group more readily forms a new siloxane bond. We used piranha solution for maximum results (PLEASE DONT DO IF YOU ARENT A TRAINED PROFESSIONAL), but any strong acid will work. This has the added benefit of further cleaning the surface.

Just collect 20+ eggs today now it’s time to wait 6 weeks to see any fry.

I looked for this exact combination for years. Having tried dozens I hated them all. I finally tried Carib-Sea Jungle river sand. It looks like sand vacuums like gravel. I switch 16 tanks to this and set up 5 more with this. I love it.

Wow, 2 months since I’ve been here posting. Life the universe and everything so on to my tanks. The Bowl - well the pea puffers never thrived in the bowl. I had trouble getting them healthy from the start. I tried the triple QT regimen, Colu’s recommendation for deworming and did it 3 x and got skinny puffers and so I pulled them to a qt tank and in the process lost the trio. It was sad but it felt like no matter what I did it was going to go this way. RIP to the trio. I have decided that although an 11 g bowl is a good size I was not going to do fish again. I still have an otocinclus in there and there he will stay. I felt like this was an opportunity to do a Caridina setup. I love mischlings - Caridina with lots of diverse genetics that throw crazy color combos. I’m lucky that locally we have some great Caridina breeders. Our local shop (not the coop) has them for under $10 a piece and a local breeder I know gave me a group of 12 for $5 a piece. So I’ve got some crystals, Tai bees, blue bolts, orange eye tigers, shadow pandas, and some orange neos from my 60 g I put in to make sure it was habitable before putting $100 worth of Caridina in. It’s become a really fun tank again. There’s a Where’s Waldo effect to the tank looking for the different shrimp types. Just did water changes on my 45 and 60g tanks. They’ve been enjoyable. I’ve not gotten the plants where I want them in the 45 g but in the 60 the plants look stellar. The most recent additions are in the 60 - a group of 6 Threadfin rainbows - Iriatherina werneri🌈. https://youtube.com/shorts/-SQ2Gq-AAfs?si=WAY2DcQI2w5JCkhF Also in the 60 g although sightings are rarer are my L397 Tiger plecos, gorgeous fish. You’ll notice this very brown mulm and this is from the group of 6s love of wood 🪵. Lordy I tolerate it because the shrimp love it but every month I get in there and vacuum it out and it’s back within days it seems like. https://youtube.com/shorts/-JL8XIrlr2s?si=fXUvLV2AOybrdNU0 I still love the 45 despite my problems with the plants. With the high protein foods the puffer (Princess Peach 🍑 our Congo spotted puffer) I’m just not able to fertilize the plants the way I’d like. Many of the plants look great but eventually I’ll graduate this group to a 60 g or bigger and I’ll plant to run a bigger canister on it along with an undergravel filter. https://youtube.com/shorts/x-Jtbr4kKGk?si=Ui0m54SovstMqKSj I hope you all are having fun and enjoying the hobby.

Always love starting with Not So Sad Bowl update. Presently housing a pair of Pea Puffers, 3 common Otos, 3 SAEs and it’s been a fun aquascaping challenge. Deep substrate with an integrated UGF. Plants are an interesting mix - Crinum front and center, moss carpet up front, mix of rhizome plants, dwarf sag, little po lets of crypts, I’ve really enjoyed the challenge of it’s limitations. I haven’t discussed my fishroom in awhile. I got a better RODI system from an online retailer and finally got it setup. Rated for 100 gpd but that’s at 60 psi and out the tap I’m in at 40. So I’m probably getting 60% of what it’s capable of. I’m considering a pump to boost up the PSI to 60-90 psi. That’s about $100-140 which brings up an interesting topic….Financing my hobby is something I’ve become more conscious of. I’ve realized over time the impact it can have on other parts of our family life. So in the last 6 months I now scrimp and save from selling plants, fish, shrimp and excess tanks and equipment to fund the majority of the hobby. It’s been enlightening. I and others have spoken about how limitations can bring on more creative and interesting avenues in the hobby. It’s a good challenge. I’m feeling a lot of gratitude towards what I have, what I’ve achieved and what’s ahead. Much of what I have in the fishroom has been obtained locally. I’m not buying, selling and shipping online. I’ve stuck with the club and our PNW online communities. Shipping is god awful expensive, hard on the animals and yields so many challenges on the receiving end in terms of husbandry- I work crazy hours as an NP less crazy then I was (down from 60+ to 40-50 now) but I have to keep a balance between my families needs and my hobbies needs. I think during the pandemic this got twisted for me. It’s taken me years to sort through that. I’ve now got 4 active breeding setups in the fish room. All are planted and I’m harvesting plants from them. I have one tank beside these 4 that’s plant only with lagenandra meboldi red, nurii crypts, AR, and a moss I can’t remember the name of. 1. 60 breeder, it’s a deep sand substrate with a UGF, an Eheim canister and powerhead/sponge filter combos. It’s got a breeding colony of diamond tetras, a colony of mixed ancistrus (plain LF, plain SF, lemon blue eyes, calico sf, and albino) about 6 adults 2 f/4 m and 7 juveniles all LBE, and 12 gold laser corys. The diamonds have 5 generations and they now number about 20 individuals, 6 adults, 14+ juvies and probably 10 more babies hiding 2. 40 breeder, 7 super red ancistrus with LF genes, 20 Japanese blue gold guppies some with double sword genes and 12+ tangerine tiger shrimp. 3. 20 long, 30 adult cherry and bloody Mary shrimp, 10 blue aura tiger shrimp, 5-7 Sulawesi orange foot rabbit snails baby baby’s not even 1/2 “, and lots of ramshorns. 4. 20 high, 5 (2:3 m:f) adult Santa Claus guppies and 20+ fry, 6 L519 juvies, blood Mary shrimp, Malawa shrimp and some Aura blue tigers. Here’s video of 3 of the setups. Hope everyone stays warm along with their tanks! Have fun!

This is how the eggs in the pouch looked the first time. He is hiding so I will take a pic tomorrow or the weekend. Some random pics