Neon Tetras and Panda Cory issue after water change

[Endless3]

I just did a large water change 70 -80%. Last water change was last week 30%. There was a temp spike going from 76F (24.5C) to 81F (27.3C). After filling the tank (10 gal (40L)) one of the codry pandas is just laying around not really moving around, and the tetras will be swimming then stop, go vertical then they drop.. then start the process over. The water did go back to 76F (24.5C) before the water was finished. While typing this some are swimming like they are on a roll coaster.  

Nitrate 0

Nitrite 0

hardness 300

buffer 40

ph 6.8

chlorine 0

temp 76F (24.5C)

[xXInkedPhoenixX]

Hi @Endless3, is there a reason you did such a big water change? I also see you don't have an ammonia reading, do you have a way to test for ammonia? Just to be clear the temperature swing was from the water change or ?

[Endless3]

@xXInkedPhoenixX  The reason for the large water change was due to Nitrate and Nitrite level never went down from the last water change, so I though a larger water change would be a good idea. The swing in temp was during the water change. I have to bucket fill, and the first bucket was when I saw the temp jump up. By the time the water change was finished the temp was back to normal.  Ammonia is at 0. 

 

[xXInkedPhoenixX]

I see. Have your fish gone back to normal more or less since then?

Others might have a differing opinion but I wouldn't change more than 50% tank water. I have found (IME) even with spike in ammonia or nitrite- and you know it's an issue- to do daily small water changes of 20% or so and treat the tank with something like Prime. This should also prevent any crazy temperature spikes. Fish may already be stressed by the spikes, you want to try and keep their stress minimal to prevent an illness outbreak. 

Edited December 16, 2021 by xXInkedPhoenixX
to clarify

[Endless3]

The cors are acting the same. One has been staying at the top, and all of the neon tetras has passed. Not a good day so far.

 

[Brandon p]

There are a few issues that could cause this and I would argue that all happen in should a big water chance. Fist you change water to maintain certain water parameters. By removing that much water and refilling. You are removing most of the Dissolved oxygen and a the same time string up all the junk in the substrate debris, and of the thing you wanted to re move that have been sequestered in the substrate. When you refill many people refill tanks very fast causing large bubbles which is not ready available to the fish for a good time period.  This is the most simple way to say this. I would remove the fish and place them in a qt if you have one going a the time or take some water out of another tank into a bucket/s and put the fish in therewith air stone. Slowly add water to the bucket/s to help the fish recover. Leaving the fish in that tank can kill all, none, or some. 
It is a mistake that many people do and get buy or do one thing differently. 
mid anyone wants a more detailed answer I will do that but for @Endless3 I hope it helps. I have done this a few times and that is why I did the research this is not all encompassing 

Edited December 5, 2021 by Brandon p

[Colu]

I would get a temperature probe I use the cooper Atkins probe when doing water changes to match the temperature to avoid temperature swings the larger  water change could have caused pH to swing coupled with the 3 degree temperature change could be enough to shock them I would do small daily water changes and add prime to detoxify any nitrites and nitrates and ammonia like @xXInkedPhoenixX suggest in the future 

Edited December 5, 2021 by Colu

[Endless3]

Thank everyone. unfortunately the tanks has been lost. 

[Ken Burke]

Sorry for your loss.  
 

I don’t think we have enough information to figure out what happened.  Something similar happened in my pleco growout tank.  My best guess is that I used too much dechlorinator. My water change was on the larger size because I was fighting some nitrites.  
 

out of curiosity, how old is your tank?

[Endless3]

@Ken Burke Same I was fighting nitrites, did a large water. Since I bucket fill I add  API Quick Start 10ml in the first bucket then fill the rest normally. 

[Ken Burke]

What did you use to dechlorinate?

 

[Endless3]

API Quick Start was all I used 
also there is not Chlorine in our water. I've tested multiple times

 

[Colu]

On 12/14/2021 at 2:57 PM, Endless3 said:

API Quick Start was all I used 
also there is not Chlorine in our water. I've tested multiple times

 

At different times of the year they can flush the pipes that why I would always use a dechlorinator unless you test for chlorine before every water change

[Endless3]

@Colu Something like API stress Coat? 

 

[Colu]

I use seachems prime as detoxify any ammonia nitirtes nitrates for 24 hr 

Edited December 14, 2021 by Colu

[anewbie]

I doubt it was an issue with a chance in tap water but rather something went wrong with the water change; but without a chemical analysis of the water or examination of the fish it would be just speculation; so i think it would be best to move on. However what were the nitrate value which prompted the large water change in the first place ? Also you said nitrite never went down from last water change - the nitrite level should always be 0; and esp for cory and tetra they should not be placed in a tank where the nitrite level is not always 0 (i.e, a well mature cycled tank). 

 

The reason i mention these things is that i presume you will start over so you might take the opportunity to learn some lessons. 

 

The reason I asked about the nitrate level before the water change is your comment that you felt compelled to do a large water change due to nitrate level.

 

last but least a 10 gallon tank is too small for cory.

[Endless3]

@anewbie Before the water change the Nitrate was 10 and Nitrite was 1

 

[Guppysnail]

I’m sorry for your loss. I just wanted to add this for your future reference. When I have an issue I always use a series of changes as it seems to stress my fish less and it’s not such a rapid change. I do 50% then 20/25 30 minutes later and continue 20% every 30 minutes until it’s in acceptable range. I have no idea if this is a recommended method but it’s always worked for me. Also I bucket water first as well a temp gun to balance temp before putting water in tanks is great for me and relatively inexpensive on Amazon. 

[Endless3]

@Guppysnail thanks for the tip. I will definitely try that out!

[anewbie]

nitrate of 10 isn't problematic; nitrite of 1 is problematic and suggest the tank is not cycled.

[JettsPapa]

On 12/14/2021 at 8:57 AM, Endless3 said:

API Quick Start was all I used 
also there is not Chlorine in our water. I've tested multiple times

 

Where do you get your water?  If you live out in the country and have a well, then I'm sure that's correct.  If you're on a municipal or other water system I'm fairly certain the water is treated with chlorine or chloramine.

[Endless3]

@JettsPapa I'm in a small town in Indiana. Not really the country, so I'm not on well water.. at lest I don't think I am.

 

[JettsPapa]

On 12/16/2021 at 9:05 AM, Endless3 said:

@JettsPapa I'm in a small town in Indiana. Not really the country, so I'm not on well water.. at lest I don't think I am.

 

If you get a bill for water from the town, or a water system, then you aren't on a well, and almost certainly need to be using Prime or a similar product.

[AndEEss]

Do you understand how to cycle a tank, @Endless3?

 

[Torrey]

On 12/15/2021 at 1:09 PM, Endless3 said:

@anewbie Before the water change the Nitrate was 10 and Nitrite was 1

 

First, I want to thank you for trusting us with your struggles, and being willing to learn about other methods of fish keeping. 

I am so sorry for your loss, sadly I am willing to bet everyone who keeps fish has had this happen at least once. It seems to be a part of the learning curve. A loss happens to some people, and they give up. Meanwhile, a loss can happen to another person, and they use the loss as motivation to learn more and not repeat the mistake[s].

Your enthusiasm and transparency tells me you are more likely to be in the "use as motivation" category. 

If you are willing to explore a couple of possibilities, I think you have a pretty solid foundation and just need a few missing pieces.

I'm going to ask a few questions, so I don't do my regular autistic info dump, and overload you with information you might not need right now. 

1. What testing equipment are you using?

2. What test are you using to detect chlorine or chloramine in your water?

3. What does your water straight out of the tap test?

4. Do you have live plants in your aquarium?

5. How did you set up the tank (ie: did you do a fish in cycle? Or did you cycle the tank before you added fish? Did anyone explain the nitrogen cycle, and how to "season" a tank in a way that made sense to you?) Frequently, a tank may be cycled, but not necessarily seasoned, and the cycle seems to crash with water changes and/ or adding too many fish at once for the filtration to handle. If no one explained the difference between "seasoned" and "cycled", this may be the answer to nitrites at 1 and no fluctuations in nitrates.

 

From everything I read, I am pretty sure with just a few adjustments, you will happily be enjoying healthy fish in your aquarium, soon. Welcome to the nerms, you have already found several of the most helpful members. 

Here's to happy aquarium keeping on the horizon!