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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Yeah.... barbs can be a feisty bunch.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Looks like mating to me. My brother and I would say our fish were doing the “yin yang” when we had our cichlid tanks. I notice some barbs have plump bellies. Could barb fry be in your future? 🤔 I'll have to see if I can find a video, but there's some fish (I swear it's these guys) that do angry kissing to fight for dominance. Was not fun when I could not get them to stop tearing eachother up. Yeah, the video looks like two males going after who is the boss of the group.
  3. nabokovfan87
    I believe it's this, with a tube going out to the output. Not this exact thing, but that gives you an idea of the orientation / setup for a "prefilter" for an overflow weir.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Given the PH, you may have little to no KH in the water. I would just verify you're at or around 60 ppm minimum (if you can). Ammonia you'd want below 0.5 at best. Something like polyfilter or ammonia guard will be advised and you can plop that into the bottom of the bucket with minimal risk to the fish. Given you're running heat and air, might not be a bad idea. (seachem sells bags of it, but get what you can) For shrimp, hitting certain minimums might be critical, considering the new setups for everything, it might be worth looking into adding something under the substrate (coral) or others if your KH is an issue. Going to a 5g bucket, temps will slip, generally, but you do have the heater in there which is awesome and really will help that out. If you can drip acclimate shrimp, that's always best. For fish, I would not worry about it. An emergency 80-95% water change is common in situations you're in for fish. Match temp within a degree and it's good. You can bag/float them as well if you choose. Temperature is one parameter, but the point of dripping is for OTS symptoms where the other items in the water are vastly different than the tank and it gives parameters the ability to slowly change over time. Changing water gets the PH to a safe level, increases oxygenation, lowers ammonia, all great things for the fish right now. You can do big water changes like that once every few days, and daily 50% water changes as you need to. For the two tests you have above, TDS goes from 380 down to about 80. Major swings. Temp swing of 74.4 vs. 74.8 isn't one I am concerned with regards to moving shrimp directly, but the TDS (KH/GH) swings is. (see video at the end) The big thing is vibrations, shadows, making sure buckets don't tip, and then using lids. Try to limit the amount of "big fish" in each if you can. spreading out the load as much as possible. Most of the ammonia comes from respiration. UGH, man, I am very sorry. There is a lot of great shrimp available on the forums (pretty much any color) in the buy/sell/trade section! 🙂 Here's a video regarding water changes. I can't even prepare someone for the story, but it's well worth the watch. You can do water changes in the situation you're in to help. I would limit them to one 50% WC every 24 hours, one major change every 3 days if possible. There are other situations that demand increased water changes.... also a good sanity check:
  5. nabokovfan87
    Bentley, what was the online program you'd recommended? It was on a live stream, but it's been a little while. If you recall, great, but I understand it's been a minute.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Fresh, safe water. Verify ammonia isn't coming from the tap. Maybe something happened with equipment causing excess stress and lowered the oxygenation on you. Adding the dechlor lowers oxygen even further, causing more issues. Just keep all that in mind.
  7. nabokovfan87
    They might be trying to clean off the slime coat. Some fish do that. Maybe dose in some salt to stimulate the angels slime coat to recover?
  8. nabokovfan87
    Some people take a piece of foam similar to what you'd use for a corner filter. They orient it at the top of an overflow box to keep shrimp or fry out of the pump area. It might work, just a piece of 2" foam and make a hole for the hose to fit through. Oxygenation and/or safety?
  9. nabokovfan87
    If you're going shrimp, they have buffers designed for the species you wish to keep. If it's caridina vs. neocaridina you would have a different buffer that you can find off the shelf. There are a variety of brands available, one of them is salty shrimp. This would be easy to follow, give you the needs you want, and make it really, really easy to manage. 🙂 When it comes to shrimp, the parameters you have might be great for caridina species without anything more than a specific substrate.
  10. nabokovfan87
    What is in the filter itself? Cartridge? Please help me to understand your media selection in the filter. If you are running just the cartridge, that can cause a bit of an unstable system. I think this is a large amount of ammonia. I would not go above 1-2 ppm Yeah, it's good to see the KH jump here. I am curious if you have ever tested your tap water? What I normally start with is an off-gas test. Test directly from the tap for anything you can, then use an airstone for 24 hours and repeat the test. Then you'd compare that to the aquarium. (3 total tests) The goal being that the second test is indicative of what changes in your water during your maintenance. I would recommend crushed coral and Seiryu stone. Those can be done in addition to what you're already doing in the tank with the shells. These would be lower flow, passive buffers, and give you some longer term stability. If your local store doesn't have seiryu stone then you can look at something like seachem equilibrium to buffer the GH of your water as you need to. The coral (or aragonite) would be used essentially by the handful until you have the value you wish for your aquarium. It would be similar as to what you've seen above where the buffer might take 2-5 weeks to show full affect. Doing normal water maintenance as well, whatever your expected schedule will be, will also help to give clarity on the long term parameters of the tank.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Aquarium Adventures has a video trying out the solar side of a pond pump as well as pond guru. Pecktec has a playlist for a small pond that might be a great series for you to check out! I really need to find a LFS.... 😞 That's awesome. What do you normally have in the tubs?
  12. nabokovfan87
    I can only think plants or some sort of cover would help. Angels might be pretty timid in terms of activity compared to guppies. Maybe the guppies grew in size and then got a bit bolder?
  13. nabokovfan87
    Top right I would assume is a female. Bottom right I would assume is a male. This is just based on size, could be a camera trick. Beautiful plecos. I don't know how I'd get any work done with those to watch all day!
  14. nabokovfan87
    @Bentley Pascoe was working on something and there are some programs online he's mentioned on his streams. Help us out Mr. Pascoe! (If he doesn't get the notification, Bentley has a weekly livestream that you can join to discuss it there) 🙂
  15. nabokovfan87
    I'm the same way! Looking forward to the after photo when it's ready! 🙂
  16. nabokovfan87
    Seeing barbs run around with mini hot cheetos is hilarious.
  17. nabokovfan87
    A video of what you're seeing might help. I had 3-4 out of the group that could not tolerate the swarm. Essentially I would wake up, check on the fish and they would be waiting at the tank when I got close. I would feed the group somewhere in the open (food that drops goes to the corydoras) and then I would find the other barbs hiding in the plants and drop in some food wherever they were. There were times where they would ignore it. Feeding the ball of barbs in smaller amounts over a few minutes works too and keeps them occupied while the other ones get some courage. The other behavior is that they will sit outside of the active group, trailing them so to speak. In that case you feed in a line of food, slowly again, and just make sure you save a couple pieces to fall where that fish is trailing. Eventually they will recover, but with barbs, that was just the social behavior my group had. You can see them here trying to avoid the mass. There was also the female barbs that were just a bit slower/chunkier and needed a bit of time to get food after the quicker ones had their mouths stuffed. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea went through the exact same thing with her bolivian ram. I would check that out too as a resource for spot feeding and it's affects. (that part is at the beginning of the journal). The fish will learn where and how you want to feed them and it just takes a bit of practice.
  18. nabokovfan87
    I agree with the above. Using CC/Aragonite (however much you need) is probably the easiest way long term for stability. Using something like Acid/Alkaline buffer works fine, but the amount you'd go through with RO water as a base on top of equilibrium, it's a bit much. You very likely could use the same shrimp buffer (mix of the two) and then use the CC to get the PH where you want.
  19. nabokovfan87
    It looks like a male to me, but it's difficult to tell. We'll have to see how he/she colors up. There is the indicative third spine and the runners on the tail already formed. Feed some krill based food and you'll have some bright colors in no time.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, that's why I got the swords. Adding some fry here shortly.
  21. nabokovfan87
    That's such a wonderful place, it's very beautiful. Welcome!
  22. nabokovfan87
    Unfortunately it does happen. When it was feeding time it was always easy to tell who were the bosses in the crowd and then it became easy to tell who was afraid to come up and get food. Just keep an eye out on as much as you can. Try to make sure everyone does get some grub.
  23. nabokovfan87
    I'm guessing so. Very fine white roundworms. In the Cory tank, they didn't touch them.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Well the "deep clean" when moving the tank definitely didn't help to rid the tank of worms. Feels like Riddick is about to be a permanent resident to the shrimp tank. I checked on things tonight, I was going to plant in the epiphytes to the hardscape (they are floating) and then I saw the mass of worms all over the tank. I've got 3-4 berried females right now, I've not been feeding the tank heavy at all this week because the shrimp seemed to be ignoring the food. Hard to know what to do with this one. Similar situation as before where there isn't anything to keep the worms in check and it's near impossible to even see them on the sand substrate. At night, clear as day in the water. They are about 2x as long as they were last week, so they are loving their little home. Probably all inside the dragonstone too, making it very difficult to eradicate them. Healthy ecosystem and all that, I get it. fry will be in the tank soon, so there's that. I do need to get enough baby shrimp growing before that happens to stabilize the colony first. I do enjoy the scape a lot more. There's room so to speak for things to grow in and there's better circulation and flow. The hardscape flows better.... The hydrogen peroxide treated BBA didn't really get affected at all, again, so I need to figure out a better method. Probably pull the wood one day, soak it in a bucket and give it a good dose. I'll get some better photos under the white lights once I get the plants in place.
  25. nabokovfan87
    @aaron eli Any idea what was going on? Did you get the pump working any better?
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