NanoNano

One thing that caught my eye after rereading is that the water PH that this Betta is in is climbing and now 8.0. This might be why your ammonia seems to be trending up as well. Betta's seem most happy in more 7.0-6.5ish acidic water, so I would definitely want to put the brakes on letting the water PH increase any further.

Fin rot can come from bacteriological sources and chemical sources (potentially both). General comments I've found over the course of owning about 15 different Bettas. * Clean warm water is vital In your picture I see visible debris on the bottom (maybe pieces of fin?)- that and poop need to be removed as quickly as possible. Ammonia needs to be kept as low as possible so there should be at least a 50% water change every day while your Betta is ailing. Super important that the water going in matches the water coming out in temperature and parameters. I've seen some suggestions online to lower your tank temperature, but I'd strongly advise against that as A) It will slow your Bettas immune system. B) The bacteria families that cause fin rot are "comfortable" at room temperature which *to me* can be anywhere in the range of 65-90 degrees. * Treating a with product that contains Malachite Green (e.g. Seachem Paraguard or StressGuard) is often helpful. Malachite had antiseptic properties and will help knock down or out bacteria in the water and on your Bettas body. You want to watch dosing directions and observe your Betta. It is possible to overdose Malachite and in my experience some Bettas find being dosed with Malachite irritating. * Having something for your Betta to rest on is helpful (e.g. a floating log or one of those "hammock" leaves). Position it so that your Betta has a short trip to the surface to get air and that they're kept of the bottom of the tank where waste may collect. * I have a personal suspicion (no evidence) that some Bettas develop an autoimmune response to fin rot as I've had some guys that get worse no matter how much treatment and TLC they get. I don't have any words of wisdom here other than keep things clean and warm and if things don't improve, it might not be due to you or your Betta's best efforts. * Important to bear in mind that Betta are a prey fish on the food chain. Mother Nature's general design for them in the wild is to mature so that they look fabulous, have a big spawn, and become food for something bigger. Keeping Bettas in captivity can extend their lifespans into years, but that's not a given. Again, if things don't improve, it might not be due to you or your Betta's best efforts. Mother Nature is the house and the game of life is rigged so that the house always wins.

I've been feeding Sera Shrimp Food (pellets). They have a fairly high protein and filler content, but my Neo shrimp and Trumpet Snails make a beeline for them and the pellets are always totally consumed within a couple of hours.

Since you already have some other Crypts "going on", you might want to have a look at Cryptocoryne Spiralis Tiger. It grows tall thin pointed 9-12" leaves that can vary from pink to burgundy in color. I have it in a couple of my tanks and really enjoy it. One heads up- I've gotten it from two different sources. One appeared to have grown it submerged - this plant has been fast growing (tripled in size in about six weeks) with straight leaves that have a bright green vein up the stem. The other appears to have been grown "in air" - these plants have been very slow growing (not even doubled in size in three months) when submerged and have had curled leaves with a dark brown/black vein up the stem. I'm not clear if the differences are simply due to how they were grown or if there's different subspecies of this plant. On the opposite end of height, Cryptocoryne Nurii / "Rosen Maiden" might be another thing to look at. It grows to the same general footprint size as Wendtii Crypt varieties (Green/Red/Bronze) but it tends to grow leaves that lie flat on the substrate. The leaves have green edges, gold centers, and black and pink veining in them. Extremely slow growing, so they're a little tricky to find as full grown plants. You can find it as a tissue culture more readily, but again it's a slow grower, so it can be 6 months or more before the culture really starts to mature into a well rooted plant. Edit- A Red Melon sword might be another thing to look at as well.

New user, so apologies for the late reply. We have a similar looking Betta but opposite personality (my daughter named him Mars, God of Slumber and it fits him perfectly). Brand new fin growth on male Bettas often starts out clear with pigmentation coming in a week or two later, so if you're seeing that, it's normal...and you're correct- new fin growth is fragile and subject to tearing especially on an active fish. One thing that catches my eye is that there's a rectangular piece missing between two rays about 3/4 the way up on his tail. That *could* be the result of fin nipping (his super active inquisitive personality would make him more inclined to do that to himself too). If it is nipping, you'll likely continue to see some periodic damage. Not much you can do to prevent it, though tank mates like snails and shrimp can serve as a distraction. The fin nipping Bettas that I've had have all "grown out of it" as they age, so it should stop at some point soon. Good luck and gorgeous fish!

That's where they like it...with the "big 3" readings all pretty much perfect, I would think he/she should be good to move in. My Rabbits are pretty demonstrative if they don't like the water quality (shriveling and puckering their bodies and hi-tailing it for the surface), so there should be some clear physical feedback if he/she is not in agreement with their new accommodations. One other comment I would make is that some of my Rabbits are particularly sensitive (shy) to light. Your pic shows that your new tank doesn't have many heavily shaded areas yet, so you may want to plan the transfer for when you can kill the tank light but still have enough natural light to see the snails behavior. Guessing that this is the plan already. Good luck and lucky snail!

Just joined, so apologies for the zombie thread revival. Agree with Patrick_G - I also have multiple strains of Neos in different Fluval Spec IIIs. Totally doable. You want to look at your filtering in a tank this small and insure that the flow isn't going to be buffeting your shrimp around (EDIT- or sucking them into the intake). You also absolutely need to have a plan for offspring with tanks this small. One of my tanks that had a single pair of what I *thought* were "old maid" blue dreams cranked out 16 little ones unexpectedly earlier this week. 16 kids in the fish equivalent of a one room studio isn't going to work out well long term.

My "canaries" aren't fish, but snails. Red Racer Nerites to be exact. My experience has been that Nerites are particularly picky about water quality and oxygenation. If I see them "parked" at or above the waterline, I know it's time to get out the test strips to see what is going on. Unfortunately, Nerites can prolifically lay eggs around a tank that are extremely difficult to remove, so my early warning system comes with some downside.

My experience with Rabbit Snails is that they tend to like a higher PH- where is your tank's PH at now?

Some Bettas seem to have "the cat gene" where they feel compelled to see if they can squeeze into tight places...just because. I have one such Betta and he's rubbed the top of his body raw several times trying to explore holes in the Mopani wood in his tank. My suggestion would be to get some coarse black filter foam and cut a piece to press fit into anything that looks like he might be able to squeeze into (look for a large pore foam that's going to feel rough and unappealing to your fish if they were to try to work their body in there).

Retail is the "last mile" in the chain of a Betta going from a breeder to it's caretaker/home. While a lot of people focus on the conditions of "that horrible little cup" that they directly see and can handle, every video of Betta breeders that I've seen online (including Thai breeders) shows males being raised in bare red Solo cups or Mason jars (in one case old liquor bottles) that contain maybe 16 oz of water. Yet, no one seems to bat an eye about those prolonged living conditions. Getting a Betta into bigger and better circumstances no matter where you get them from is a good thing.

New user, so in late to this thread. Picked up four juvenile Sulawesi King Snails about two months ago and admittedly did not do great research on them. Turns out that their wild habitat is tidal areas and they spend 50% of their time on trees above the waterline. Also turns out that they are also world class escape artists even working as a team to "heave ho" lift the tank lid together. My family has taken to calling me "snail warden" as I've been relegated to doing "bed checks" on them every couple of hours. When I woke up yesterday, there was only three of the four in my tank. I frantically checked all around the tank, emptied the stand, got on my hands and knees to look under nearby furniture....no luck...exasperated, I rolled by eyes up to the ceiling and low and behold there was #4 about 7 feet up on a wall.