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Tanked

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Everything posted by Tanked

  1. If you can make it work for you, A side mounted HOB or adding a small circulation pump works very well.
  2. If you are thinking of 1 large school the answer is most likely no. My Serpae and Ember Tetras hang with each other occasionally, but usually remain in their own groups. The same goes for my Danios and the Blood fins. As @Flumpweesel suggested, I would replace the Danio, and add some tetras. Fish find safety in numbers, but also need to be with their own kind and temperament.
  3. You might try adding a third angel of equal size. Mine acted this way until they were moved to a tank with another angel. It took a day for the new pecking order to be established, now they are all peaceful. Somewhere around that 11 month mark, the original two turned out to be a breeding pair, so that is also a possibility
  4. I don't worry about the fancy names either. My LFS often tends to label their plants as whatever the vendor says they are. My crypt is a bunch, my Anubia Nana is not Petite, and my African Water Fern is named after the wrong continent. The original plant did not make it for whatever reasons, so I wanted to be relatively sure what plant I was dealing with and give this one the best possible chance for survival.
  5. Last week I decided to take a chance and replace the dead African Water Fern purchased last year. Like last year, no matter what criteria I searched for, google would not identify my plant. Searching for African or Asian Water Ferns always returned Bolbitis Heudelotii. As a last resort I did a general search here, and found several, including @Guppysnail's mention of the Asian Water Fern. Like magic, google😎 suddenly knew I was looking for Bolbitis Heteroclita. What are your experiences with this plant? Now I have a plant with babies and a name, How do I take care of it? The plant is already showing some deterioration, but I've read that the parent plant tends to die off and the new plants continue.
  6. Not exactly what you want but close. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-15-ft-16-2-Indoor-Switch-Extension-Cord-White-KAB-1P-KAB-18/300726073
  7. Not a problem. When somebody duplicates my advise, it means I'm on the right track to solving my own aquarium issues.
  8. Hello @BeginnerFishKeeper First, thank you for the pictures. I have had success with lesser lights, but I am considering buying a Stingray, so this is interesting. You have new growth from the PSO and other plants so melt is probably most of your problem. My first thought is to remove all of the brown/dead leaves from the aquarium. They are algae food. Trimming can sometimes stimulate new growth. The green portion of the taller PSO can be cut and allowed to float. If the Wisteria is not totally dead, be patient. It is possible to plant a few green leaves and get a new plant. Anubia is very slow growing, and can remain dormant for weeks or months. I have read that Water Sprite prefers to float. Floating a piece may work for you. The Anubia will appreciate a little shade, and the algae will also receive less light. You can also remove the the badly damaged leaves from the broad leaf plants. If you are not rinsing your sponge in aquarium water, you may be slowing your cycle down. Hopefully something here is helpful.
  9. I don't think you are doing anything wrong other than a possible lack of consistency. Consistency is important. "5 or 6 pumps" of EG and "6-8 hours of light" make it harder for you to identify problems. Some Suggestions: Test your tap water, and if possible have the LFS test your aquarium water. Your testing procedure could be off or the test kit might be off. If the fish are happy and healthy I would be careful not to make too many water related changes. Your pictures show some plant damage and a lot of new growth and roots, so the extra EG seems to be helping. if you haven't already, buy a timer for your light . I would start at 8 hours, and work from there. Your fourth picture shows what I think is a Wisteria stem with new growth and roots on the top portion. I would carefully cut above the third segment and let the cutting float. The bottom half is going to rot off anyway, but with the extra EG and light both pieces should do well. Keep in mind that those beautifully planted tanks that you see rarely mention all of the time, effort and failures required to get to that point. Enjoy the trip.
  10. I touched on this topic briefly in August. Plants that don't do well together is probably a better title. When I took a job working in a vineyard, I inquired as to the why the different grape varieties weren't planted closer together, and why new vines weren't planted where an old vine had died? They claimed the answer was alleopathy, one variety would produce chemicals detrimental to new vines and other varieties.. In my aquarium Hornwort and Elodea don't get along. Hornwort was introduced in part, to help control algae, The Hornwort thrived but also became an algae island The snails loved it. Later I added Elodea to help consume excess nutrients. When the planted Elodea eventually made it to the surface and began to spread, the Hornwort began dying. Hornwort moved to different tanks died anyway. Healthy Hornwort reintroduced to the aquarium also died. I don't think that the Elodea out competed the Hornwort for food, but something wiped it out.
  11. I'm unclear as to what right fit you are expecting. The lids are not expected to fit perfectly. They are supposed to move to allow for variations in the plastic rim. A bad fit is a lid that binds up, or is short enough to fall into the tank under normal use. The plastic filler strip can be trimmed if needed. If your primary concern is just to protect the light, than you might try pricing a single piece of glass from the local glass shop.
  12. The fish guy did not mean for you to change ALL of the water weekly. A 29 is much easier to care for than a 10. You don't have to use "aquarium" gravel Keep those SS lights and hoods. Filter cartridges/ bags can be rinsed and reused many many times. Stick to cheap fish. No matter what fish guy says, Columbian Sharks don't belong in a 10 gallon aquarium. If by chance you manage to keep a Columbian shark alive in a beginner tank it might sting you. (I did not know this)
  13. Almost all of the above. Like @lefty o said "some darned plants will not grow for us". I sounds like you also have a lot of plants in a small tank. I wish my Nitrates would drop to 40ppm. I would start by cutting back on the water changes, and increase the Easy Green. The Tiger Lotus is a heavy root feeder and thriving. The PSO, Water Sprite, Hornwort and Frogbit are heavy feeders, but dead or dying. Lighting could be an issue. I have no experience with siesta lighting, but I can say that some low-med light plants do much better in a medium light setup, or a much longer photoperiod. Just remember that the changes usually require weeks to show results.
  14. My pond is fishless, so Keeping the mint out of the landscape and keeping the Elodea out of the pumps are the only problems there. In the aquarium, the Silver Dollars will eat any and all plants they can get. I'm assuming they will also do this with the mint.
  15. The confusion is my fault. The plan/experiment is: to possibly grow mint in place of Pothos or some other Nitrate hog in the community aquarium. The photo above shows new runners and leaves growing underwater in the outdoor pond. The new plants will eventually become (emersed?) growing above the water. The concern is: I have a fish fence in the aquarium. If not carefully controlled, the roots, runners and leaves will quickly grow through the fence giving the omnivores access. The internet says I can do this as long as the leaves are kept out of the water, but I found nothing on them eating runners and roots.
  16. I think that plants can and sometimes do go into a dormant state for a variety of reasons. My snail dipped Anubia did not die back, but it took 6 months to add the next leaf. I have/had plants die back and remain alive but dormant for over a year. It happens.
  17. Here in southern most Ohio, my buddy's inground pond is about 2' deep. His goldfish and koi overwinter in the pond.
  18. On the other hand, Bringing an ailing plant back from the brink is it's own reward
  19. I think everyone struggles to maintain balance in a planted tank. The sweet spot tends to move over time. My 10gal. project tank is almost zero maintenance, and balanced. I don't know why. I do know that at some point, something will change...
  20. Considering how tightly the hinges hug the glass, it is amazing. Thinking about it just now, I was wondering if it would be worthwhile to remove the hinge and drill weep holes in the center
  21. Other than that which shall not be named, I have to go with algae removal from the glass lids on the 75. It isn't physically difficult, but remembering to drain the water from the hinges and being super careful not to bump anything gets tedious.
  22. I keep my tanks topped up to the rim, so Algae is a problem. Lids help keep the fish, heat and water in, and the pets, kids, toys and lights out. The egg crate diffusers also allow you to feed the fish and add water without removing the lid.
  23. Mint tea this winter was the original goal. Spearmint occurs naturally in my yard, but I prefer the Peppermint. I really did not expect the mint to grow in the shallow streambed above the pond.. The 3" pot is now 6 sq. ft. Hopefully winter will fix this problem. I grew Catmint that was falsely labeled Catnip. The cats would occasionally flatten the clump, but generally ignored it. I don't know if fish are smart enough to avoid plants that are bad for them. My 65 community tank may have adequate light to grow mint. The Silver Dollars have a penchant for live plants, and I am concerned that the runners may be a problem. It was the runners that gave me the idea of putting it in the aquarium Alternatively, I have a DIY light setup in the basement for my outdoor plants, and an empty 55, so maybe I can grow mint alongside the Water Hyacinth that I mentioned in another topic.
  24. In May I purchased and immediately misplaced some peppermint. I found the presumably dead plant and threw pot and all into my pond. I now have a heavy peppermint carpet In the pond it grows immersed, sending out long runners everywhere. Has anyone attempted to grow it in the aquarium? Is it fish safe? I have been considering Pothos for the nitrate consumption, but if this will grow indoors with room and aquarium light, it is also a harvestable crop. Thoughts?
  25. Here is what little I know about Nerites. Doing a little Nerite research yesterday revealed that their many more types than what you find in the LFS, so do some research. The internet says they live for a year or two. I have two tigers and two zebras, that are 3 yrs. old. @Torrey has a pair of 10yr. olds. They are athletic, bridging the gaps between plants, and riding them down to the substrate, or riding the floating plants. They are explorers, will rest for hours, and can live for days above the waterline. Mine have never actually left the aquarium, but I have found them in and on the HOB. At least one of mine has disappeared for a week or more only to be found climbing out of the UGF. I have hard water and algae, and that seems to be enough. For me, the only downside to the Nerites is the egg laying.
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