Tanked

I've lost many quarters playing Defender, and so many others that I've forgotten the names. It is ironic that later technology made desktop games a viable option to the point of addiction😵 and then made my favorites unplayable.

The second Eaglet (foreground) hatched late Friday night or early Saturday in time for a Carp Dinner. Clyde is late again, and Bonnie is unhappy.

I'm still using bio-bags and other replaceable filter cartridges. The Tetra Bio-Bags can be rinsed and reused for months or longer. It shouldn't be too hard to adapt them in place of the floss. Because they cannot be separated from the frame, some filter cartridges can be a little bit of a hassle depending on the manufacturer. When my cartridges are finally worn out, I will probably switch to the foam blocks and Bio-Bags or that pad.

This is the process I use. If you still get bleed over, than there is likely a problem with the strips: After dipping, be sure that the strip remains horizontal with the pads facing you. Place the strip flat on a paper towel for the required time. The towel will wick away excess water. How new are your strips? My newest bottle is identical to the previous one; and there is no way to tell age or expiration.

I'm down to 1 snail, so I don't have viable eggs. As mentioned above, Nerites require brackish water to hatch. ...and to raise the plankton sized fry, ...and a transition tank to convert to fresh water. For this reason your snails are probably wild caught. The definition for brackish water tends to vary. You probably need 1 tablespoon of marine salt per gallon. Some other brackish water measurements: Specific gravity of 1.0004-1.0226, .5-30 grams per liter, 500-30,000 ppm. Here is a link to this topic with some instructions from 2021 good luck! https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/7379-nerite-snail-breeding/

If your only purpose is to keep the fish in, than light diffusers 'egg crate' used in ceiling fixtures are easy to cut for <$20. You can add water and feed the critters without removing the lid. Don't buy the shiny chrome version.

The filter is old enough that attempting to remove/adapt the risers may prove fatal. The tank also has a HOB, so the UGF is not actually needed. I just like dual filtration The question arises because I am looking to replace a failing Aquatop, and Aquatop doesn't seem to offer replacement parts on air pumps. In retrospect, while I would like to confirm the volume of air per outlet on the Co-op pump, I already have dual filtration, and I don't really need to double down again. Thanks.

This is actually a 2 part question: How much air volume does a UGF in a 29 gallon actually need? Does the Co-op dual outlet pump put out 1.6 L/min air flow per outlet or in total? I've been running a separate dual outlet pump in each lift tube, If I'm not actually getting twice the benefit, I can remove one pump.

I have used egg shells after scraping out the outer membrane from the shell. I just use running water and a fingernail. I have hard water so it is unknown if the snails actually fed on them or they eventually dissolved. I have also put them in the blender for garden use.

I've been experimenting with duckweed for about 2 years. I brought home some wild caught duckweed with the intent of creating an auto feeder for the SDs. It grows outside but does poorly indoors. Some escaped into the planted tank and hasn't been seen since. The surviving colony seems to be growing. Considering it came from a lake, it seems to prefer zero water movement. It is trapped: in the Hornwort, behind a fence, separating the plants from the fish in a different tank.

Plastic plants are bulletproof, but they don't grow, and still get algae. @JoeQsaid it best: "I actually hate the term 'balanced tank' because its incredibly vague, balancing a tank comes in numerous balancing acts". Figuring out what kind of light you really have is one of those acts. Reading your original post was like reading my own notes except I have a bigger problem with spot algae on everything. It looks like you have medium-high light Vals receiving extra light in the back, and low light plants in darkness on the side that we see . Given time your Pogo might catch up. You can also clip and float the Pogo to stimulate growth. Otherwise, your lighting does not appear to be bright enough, or needs to be repositioned. I don't believe a bulletproof plant exists. You can grow Valisneria and Amazon Swords, I can't. If you can grow Vals, than the Italian Val. might grow for you. I introduced a narrow leaf Chain Sword to three tanks in mid January. They are also considered to be a medium light plant. The Swords are growing slowly, at different rates in each tank. The Sword in my 75 has put out 3 runners under the stock light. If it can continue to grow there, it might be close to bulletproof. Elodea can be anchored and planted or floated. Water sprite can be planted or floated, but prefers to float. It also does better with more light.

It seems to work that way with a lot of the "easy plants" I'm one of the people who struggles with it. I've been struggling with PS'Octopus' and Wisteria. They don't like me and won't grow in my planted community. After seeing your question I started doing some additional reading. It is known to be a heavy feeder, but there seems to be some disagreement as to whether it is a primarily a column or root feeder. While it is sold as a low light plant here, it prefers higher light. I grow it in a 10 gallon tank lit by an LED flashlight for 16 hours. The Pogo grows very slowly. This fishless tank is generally a low/no tech tank, but a few weeks back I added an unregulated DIY sugar and yeast CO2 setup. The plants have doubled their size and I can begin taking cuttings.

And I thought that I had an algae problem.😁 I found the picture in picture option! 30 minutes got me some bubbles and a shadow. Between: the Eagle Camera, my own fish cam, and visits here, my productivity is pretty close to none.

I kept an adopted solo male for years without issue. Being an adoptee, I have no idea how old the fish was, but he was already bigger than the Silver Dollars. Later when I moved two younger adoptees into his tank the aggression began. The two adoptees were taken from a toooo small tank and were aggressive to each other. The younger male quickly found that he wasn't the head fish. It took about a day to establish the hierarchy in the tank after which the aggression ceased. At night all three angels would gather in one corner of the tank. The two younger fish became a breeding pair about a year later. If anyone knows which variety of angel this is, I'd like to know. At 5" long it was a nice centerpiece in that tank.

I have no idea if anyone really knows how much food any one fish requires. You can feed them less daily or you can even skip a day occasionally.

Wisteria baffles me also. It is #3 on the list of invasive weeds that won't grow in my planted 29. Wisteria will grow poorly in the 75 with a stock light, but eventually the stem seems to rot off, or I just have a tall weak plant. I have the same problem with PSO. At the same time, both plants will grow in my 10 gal. project tank which is low or no tech/maintenance depending on my mood. It does get 16 hours of light from an LED flashlight. Even more baffling is why my the most recent plants have never put out the lacy converted leaves.

Did little to explain BBA in a tank with no plants.

The damaged leaves will not heal themselves. If you have corrected the nutrient issues, than new leaves won't be yellow, and new pinholes will not develop.

Along with your water parameters and lighting schedule the others have asked for, please include how much EG you are dosing daily. A picture of the entire tank might also be helpful.

I have (I hope) reestablished Hornwort in one tank with Pothos. The Pothos has recently put out a new submerged leaf, but the rest of the vine has suddenly died. Did Hornwort out compete my Pothos? The Pothos has been growing in this and another tank for more than two years. In my case it is not the nutrient hog it was rumored to be, or poisoned any fish. Pothos was placed in the other planted community tank to combat algae. It is healthy, but doe not outcompete the other plants or the algae.🙁

I had decision paralysis while shopping for fish one day. I spent several minutes walking between cases, comparing labels and prices. As I walked away with my product of choice, I turned in time to see 2 others who had been watching at a distance rush over for the same product. I don't know if they were judging me, but it made me feel better about my decision.

We did the paint by number thing as kids. There were lots of bold clown🤡like colors , but no concept of blending or shading. No color for me either.

That is the same mentality that awards a 5 star review for to a product that isn't on the shelf yet, arrives on time, or my favorite: "works as expected". Looking for a trend, I only look at 1-3 star reviews. 5 stars without an actual review is useless,

Long before Bob Ross tried to teach us how to paint on television, Jon Gnagy tried to teach us how to draw. My sketch pads accompany me on long flights and camping trips. I took technical drawing in HS, so I can draw a table, chair, or a house. They remain empty because I still can't draw a reasonable representation of a person or animal to save my life.

I stopped feeling guilty about those kind of things long ago. The LFS won't feel obligated to tell you that they overcharged for something. In the jerk's defense; If you aren't a dedicated plant person, you either go by what the vendor thought they sent, or what somebody else wrote on the front of the tank. If the jerk didn't want to be bothered, you just accept your gift with a smile and go. After a couple of reminders, my LFS relabeled the African Bolbitis Heudelotii as "Asian Water Fern" (Bolbitis heteroclita), and the price went up. I had previously purchased the cheaper plant as well as a "Crypt Large" and a "Crypt Bunch". The only reason I knew the difference was because of the folks here.