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Tony s

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Everything posted by Tony s

  1. And used sponges are great for starting more new tanks...🤣
  2. Sponges are great, but they fail in one area. they don't do a good job of mechanical filtration. ie... removing the gunk from the water. you can use all the tricks for removing a dirty sponge from your tank but it's still going to put a good amount back in. hobs are really good with mechanical filtration. they clean your water nicely. and you can use tricks like filter floss to avoid changing cartridges. But sponges have them beat on bio filtration. so, a combination of the 2 is a great idea.
  3. It doesn't make a super tight carpet. even in high light (i grow it in both high light and kit light tanks) there is room for most animals to reach the surface. but the leaves are sturdy and it grows relatively fast. so not a carpet, more jungle like. up to a foot tall or more with the right conditions. very easy plant.
  4. It Grows! I have had it in gravel with kit lights. It needs root tabs. mine was doing really well for over a year. I think I may have stunted mine though. I had been keeping it trimmed but is fading now. but in better substrate. it grows like grass
  5. and I can see dwarf sag growing thick enough to be an absolute pain to try to get fry out of. Mine has been as high a 6-8 inches (I keep it trimmed to 3) and thick. not covering every centimeter. probably 1/2 inch or more between plants. but solid. really good cover for my bolivian rams and skunk corys my micro sword has escaped and is now growing free. but not really quickly like sag does.
  6. If I may suggest, go for green neons instead of regular neons. regular neons are getting relatively difficult to keep alive. they're just not as hardy as they used to be, or should be
  7. I tried it in a higher light with no co2. it did mostly fine. But... it was in a small sized gravel and the roots let go. ended up floating like an oversized duckweed. grew really well then.🤣 had to net out lots over several months.
  8. There are a couple of choices you can do though. Rosy barbs and bristlenose plecos are going to be the best. They need to be big enough not to be food. The plecos need a temperature around 72. So that changes the tank dynamics. you should be able to add both common and shubunkin goldfish as well.
  9. No. Cartridge looks fine. I have several even more crusty. I just rinse and put back until they start to break down. possibly the fake plants. If they’re starting to break down. I wouldn’t think so though. They are made for aquariums. But they will break down. Dead rotting plants. Maybe. but if you’re not going over 0.25. You’re still okay
  10. There are fish that color-up or down depending on the substrate color. I don't believe honey gourami's do that. they may actually pop more on a dark background. the gold should shine.
  11. keep the water level close to it, but definitely not touching. that should be enough humidity. especially with a lid. and if anything you do doesn't work this time, don't worry. you'll get plenty of chances. the only other thing i'd worry about is egg/snail eating fish
  12. Goldfish make the best tankmates with... other goldfish. really, when you have that much personality and goofiness it's great, and more is always better right. you could actually do a couple of different kinds of goldfish just for variety.
  13. for a 20 mile drive, ziplocks would work just fine. largest size possible. supported in a box or cooler. covered with something to prevent temp shifts. it should only be a trip of 1/2 hour? depending on where you live of course. not going to have time to create much ammonia or other such. fish travel in bags for several days. so, no big deal
  14. Only add the equilibrium for water changes. Neither the calcium or magnesium evaporates. So if you’re adding it consistently every time it will increase. I actually had this happen to me when I first started using it. Now when doing a water change, I premix everything and get it just right before adding. I never did like the residue left over from it. So I don’t mix it in the tank. The other way is doing the testing every time you use it. Per tank. That way your range is exactly where you want it. For just top offs I never add it
  15. @Marcelo how long have you had these cats. It’s very concerning to me that he’s wasting away. May be very hard to fix. If they’re relatively new. Parasite is my best guess
  16. Another small thing with rocks. Learned from landscaping. And something most homeowners don’t get. Chickens don’t lay rocks. Meaning rocks are not eggs laid on the surface. They should be partially buried and come out of a surface more naturally
  17. For plastic backgrounds, you could just run it behind and tape it to the side. If you get the right kind of scotch tape, you really won’t see it at all. Works really well with the black garbage bag trick. Or something that I have done, try using some very thick wax paper. It gives it a cool kind of frosted look. Looks a bit endless. May have to use a double layer to hide the equipment though. But the bag and paper trick are dirt cheap. So if you don’t like the look, trash it and it doesn’t cost anything
  18. Extremely so. We keep very detailed records of the animals we do breed (not fish). There is a very definite monetary cost per breeding per animal. By the time they have gone through 4 breedings it becomes cost prohibitive to keep them producing. Depending on the animal. Average breeding for all animals ages is kept around 3.5 per female per herd. So an unbred female would expect to have twice the lifespan. Assuming it works exactly like that in fish as well
  19. If he’s in a quarantine tank you might go ahead and treat with maracyn 2. May not have much to lose at this point. He’s just going to get weaker. It’s shrimp safe so should be good with glass. Possibly a parasite? @Colu got any ideas?
  20. Yep, was actually going to say that. Especially if you have no idea how old they are to begin with. And there’s genetic variation there as well. Some of my plates pass around 2, while others are still going strong. @Sciurus more to the point of your question. Endlers genetics are good still. But for the most popular fish, the neons, bettas, and guppies, the genetics have been trashed. You can have perfect situations for them and still struggle to keep them alive. Depending on where you source them from.
  21. Death at a certain age. I don’t think that’s a thing. Death from physical defects or general unthriftiness is a definite thing. Not so much in endlers. But for sure in guppies, neon tetras, and bettas. I don’t believe it’s got to the endlers yet, it probably will. It’s actually gotten really hard to keep neons and guppies alive for very long. Depending on the source. Some guppies have good genes and do fine as well as wild caught neons.
  22. @macdaddy36 This one here is what concerns me. The tank has been trying to be cycled since February at least, possibly earlier, and yet he keeps coming up with ammonia. Makes zero sense. Even over feeding would grow extra bacteria over time. Unless there’s something else going on
  23. I think you'll be okay doing that. but i'd make sure the store understands what you're trying to do. the fish per bag needs to be on the low end and the bags need to be strong enough to travel. I'd also keep a close eye on temperature. temp swings that we wouldn't notice could have serious effect on your animals. possibly carry them in an insulated cooler as well.
  24. Sounds like a good plan. But if you already have the 5g, the betta tank is probably the best idea. And if you have the room and or the money, bigger tanks are actually easier to keep stabilized water parameters in. Just by shear volume of water. 20’s are good, bigger is better even. Just a bit more work, but oh so many options. If corys are what you’re after, look for a tank with the most bottom surface area. Corys do best in large groups. Forget the 6 which would be a normal group, and go for much higher. It really changes their behavior.
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