Fluval Plant 3.0 Scheduling and Programming

[JJenna]

I discovered this thread this morning and it's going to take some time to get through 13 pages of messages but I've learned a lot already. I put some Christmas Moss on a piece of decor on Tuesday. It's only about 6-8" from my light. What I think is hair algae has started growing. Are the algae growing because the moss is too close to the light?  If that's so, where is the best placement of my light (Fluval Plant 3.0)? I had the light more centered on the tank. Should I put the light more towards back of tank? Or, was it because I originally had lights at factory preset in Auto mode for a couple of days but readjusted after watching Pascoe's videos?

[Lauren A]

Hi, I have a 10 gallon planted betta tank with the Fluval Nano 3.0 and a variety of plants.  I made a chart to determine the light requirements for each of my plants and most of them fall into the moderate category.  This is a betta tank and eventually the surface will be covered in floating plants for my lil guy.  The floaters are getting there but I often wonder if I have way too much light intensity for my plant needs.  

I was curious if anyone could offer me some advice and take a look at my settings to see if they are appropriate.  Also, how high up I should have the light?  I have attached a screen shot of pretty much how I’ve had them running for the last 3 months plus.  I do make adjustments here and there but I honestly don’t know if they make a difference.  My plants are doing good.  
 

I switched over to NilocG Thrive C all-in-one 2 weeks ago from Easy Green (because of the lower Nitrogen and higher Iron).  I dose 2 times a week at 1.4ml each time with a syringe.  
 

I’d just like to find that healthy balance.  Thanks so much for your help!  
 

p.s please don’t laugh at my failed attempt to make a sandy path.  😂. Jasper (my betta) doesn’t seem to mind.  

 

 

Edited December 3, 2022 by Lauren A

[nabokovfan87]

On 6/28/2022 at 2:11 PM, JoeQ said:

I've already started doing 4 hours (12pm~4pm) on the night setting which I believe is 1% on all spectrums.

night for me is everything off to keep algae at bay.

On 6/28/2022 at 2:11 PM, JoeQ said:

My normal light schedule is Bentleys Day sim 45%, with blue at 30%.  As you can see im battling a good deal of hair algea on account of excessive temperatures, co2 fluctuations caused by aggressive surface aggitation and neglect! Gotta tighten up!!!! 🤣

turn the blue down to 10% max and it should help slightly.  For whatever reason the blue LEDs on this light cause a lot of algae.  On the spectrum chart you can see that the blues are very strong too.

EDIT:  Sorry @JoeQ hopefully the light is doing better for you. Forum is acting weird and showed that as newest post!

Edited December 3, 2022 by nabokovfan87

[nabokovfan87]

On 12/3/2022 at 9:22 AM, Lauren A said:

The floaters are getting there but I often wonder if I have way too much light intensity for my plant needs.  

I was curious if anyone could offer me some advice and take a look at my settings to see if they are appropriate.  Also, how high up I should have the light?

I think what you have is probably pretty good.  There's a few things at play here.
1.  The light is above the tank (mounted) and that does things with refraction of the light.  With the lid, you can also get humidity spots that block out some of the light as well.
2.  Floating plants will reduce the light that gets through to the substrate too. (I can't say it specifically, but corralling the floaters to a ring or using a plant ring to keep an opening will help some of the plants at the bottom to get light).
3.  Having the plants marked as each light intensity is awesome! Where they are planted, how much light is getting to them will determine how fast they grow too. 

If you have a fast growing plant (high light needs) with high light and it's easy for them to access the light, then you'll have that plant in particular go pretty bonkers.  Some plants are "shade plants" like anubias where they don't want to be directly under the light or they have a high risk of algae on the leaves.

 

 

On 12/3/2022 at 9:22 AM, Lauren A said:

Looks good.  Let us know how it's doing after a month or two!

[JoeQ]

On 12/3/2022 at 4:23 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

night for me is everything off to keep algae at bay.

turn the blue down to 10% max and it should help slightly.  For whatever reason the blue LEDs on this light cause a lot of algae.  On the spectrum chart you can see that the blues are very strong too.

EDIT:  Sorry @JoeQ hopefully the light is doing better for you. Forum is acting weird and showed that as newest post!

Was just going to respond as to why you were posting on that old comment! This forums software is; for lack of a better description..... WONKY!!! 🤣 As for the 10% blue, running Bentleys day sim at 45% (probably a typeo) puts blue at 9% for about an hour,  then it goes down to about 2 or 3. The calculator is linked in my signature if ya wanna check it out to play with the numbers. As for the Hair Algea, its still there... It doesn't really bother me, i actually like to watch how it changes as tank maintenance/ fertilization ect changes

[nabokovfan87]

On 12/3/2022 at 1:58 PM, JoeQ said:

The calculator is linked in my signature if ya wanna check it out to play with the numbers.

Was going through it last week. 😂

My lights are very static. One day I'll get to the pro mode.

On 12/3/2022 at 1:58 PM, JoeQ said:

As for the Hair Algea, its still there... It doesn't really bother me, i actually like to watch how it changes as tank maintenance/ fertilization ect changes

Yeah, definitely some interesting stuff. The things I've been through with algae in my tank I can't explain, it's been a journey watching this stuff change form based on all the variables.

[JoeQ]

Can I get some input on this configuration from users who use siesta?

This is based on Bentleys DaySim which I love, but I want (need) to cut the hours on. Problem is, the first hour of the day, and the last hour of the day are my favorite time to watch my tank. Hence (2) 6hour 45m segments which break down to 1h ramp up, 3h high light, 2h ramp down plus a 45m low light daybreak or dusk extension. And of course the 2 hour siesta in-between. My thinking is that this will simulate 2 full days

But, my main question(s) Is;  is it still advised to follow the 1h ramp up, and 2 hour ramp down "rule" when configuring siesta(s)? Or should I add a longer full light hours and less ramp up/down time. Also, should I add a longer siesta time? Will 2 hours be enough time for the plants to process 6h45m of light?

[nabokovfan87]

@JoeQ are you running CO2 during the siesta period?

[JoeQ]

On 12/7/2022 at 7:47 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

@JoeQ are you running CO2 during the siesta period?

If the siesta is for 2 hours ill keep it running, if i legthen the siesta period ill still only run co2 for 2 hours

Edited December 8, 2022 by JoeQ

[Streetwise]

You can do siestas with any lighting pause you need. Some of us run dual siestas.

[JoeQ]

On 12/7/2022 at 8:05 PM, Streetwise said:

You can do siestas with any lighting pause you need. Some of us run dual siestas.

 

So there isn't a hardset number of, if your siesta is X long you need Y hours of darkness? 

[AquaDude]

Hello everyone!  I see quite a bit of Siesta programs in here.  Several aquascapers on YouTube mention that Siestas are not very beneficial to aquatic plants?  I have the fluval Aquasky LEDs in a 32 gallon and I'm looking to combat some black beard and brown algae.  The bio load is kinda heavy in it so I have stopped all in one fertilizers this week.  I've been wanting to try the Siesta but haven't seen any info out there on effects of aquatic plants.

I also started a 3 Gallon betta tank with the fluval Nano plant LED and have the light peak at 40% and Im noticing quite a bit of melting in the plants.  I have the LED fixture set up using the L-bracket in reverse position so it's slightly higher off the surface.

Please help!  

[Lauren A]

On 12/3/2022 at 4:31 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

I think what you have is probably pretty good.  There's a few things at play here.
1.  The light is above the tank (mounted) and that does things with refraction of the light.  With the lid, you can also get humidity spots that block out some of the light as well.
2.  Floating plants will reduce the light that gets through to the substrate too. (I can't say it specifically, but corralling the floaters to a ring or using a plant ring to keep an opening will help some of the plants at the bottom to get light).
3.  Having the plants marked as each light intensity is awesome! Where they are planted, how much light is getting to them will determine how fast they grow too. 

If you have a fast growing plant (high light needs) with high light and it's easy for them to access the light, then you'll have that plant in particular go pretty bonkers.  Some plants are "shade plants" like anubias where they don't want to be directly under the light or they have a high risk of algae on the leaves.

 

 

Looks good.  Let us know how it's doing after a month or two!

Hi!  I’m sorry for the delay in responding to your reply.  Thank you SO much for your help with this.  My plants seem to be doing well, but my floaters are taking over big time.  It’s a good thing for my betta, but I do think my sword may need more light so I’m going to set up a corral to at least group some together to give it more light.  
 

I’m so glad I’m at least been using the light settings I need and haven’t been over or under doing it.  I don’t see much algae, a bit here and there, but i also have four great employees that are on the go constantly (my horned nerites) I’ve had this same setting on another tank I built about 7 weeks ago, and that tank is doing phenomenal.  
 

Thank you again and Happy New Year!

[MichelleN]

2 Fluval 3.0 48"  on a 120 g high, 48×24x24 tank. I think it's an Aqueon, bought it used.  Short question is how close to 100% should I go with the two lamps on this tank for a medium light level.  Longer version below with pics. 

We have a DIY weir box (the original two overflow boxes removed by prior owner) with a full siphon, open chanel and emergency standpipe and a DIY 40g breeder sump.  The tank is planted with a mix of low to medium light plants, three rather large pieces of Manzanita, basalt rocks for support, shaping  and rounded beach gravel. Stocked primarily with Tetras and Corydoras. Most of the plants were originally from Co-op and had been growing in our other tanks, these include Annubias, crypts, Val, Java fern, PogoO. Along with frogbit and hornwort as floaters.   I  picked up hopefully medium light tolerant from LFS: Cabomba, g loydellia, filigree Myro, trident java and Bolbitis H, a banana plant and a tiger lily just for this setup. We'll see what makes it. And pathos growing from the weir. They are rather big because they were in our 75 g for nearly 2 years before it split a seam. 

The really big new thing for us is that we have the co-op C02 regulator set with a 10lb tank, we started ar 1 bps and increased a bit each week so we now set to 4bps.  I have my drop checkers filled with 2dk water with aim to hit light green at 15ppm.  Last water tests suggest I'm hitting near that goal with kh at 5 and ph at 7. We have the Neo diffuser on the side of the tank with higher inflow. The opposite lower flow side is where the Annubias are clustered under a protective floating ring of frogbit. 

Tank is now at 2 month (post cycle) stage.   So it's new, some algae is expected over the the next year, especially has some was already present on the plants. But I'd like to keep it reasonable.  BBA that was on Annubias is reducing nicely. But we're getting some string now and a bit of stag. 

So my current goal now is to hold the C02 at 15ppm and balance out the lights and nutrients. Since it's a new tank I only started dosing last 2 weeks ago at 1ml Easy Green per day. Will probably increase this next week if water tests continue to come up under 20ppm nitrates. We started the lights at about 50% with longish ramp up and ramp down periods.  I've increased intensity twice now 2 weeks apart to 60% in the back and 55% in the front. 

Would really like to hear suggestions /recommendations on the dual lights and this size tank for medium light goal. 

Edited February 4, 2023 by MichelleN

[John Henry]

Hello @MichelleN, not sure where all the experts are but I want to at least acknowledge your legit question and offer a few thoughts.  I run a 3.0 but on a much smaller tank so I'll leave your main question for others to answer.  I fully support your plan to increase ferts, 7 ml of E.G. per week in a 120 G tank is going to leave your plants starving.  Regarding the algae, a large handful of amano shrimp, otos and nerite snails will be your best friend in the long run.

There is a lot of great information in this 3.0 Fluval thread but it seems to be losing it's momentum.  If you don't get any responses soon I would consider reposting on the "plants, algae and fertilizer" link.  

 

[JJenna]

On 2/6/2023 at 8:24 PM, John Henry said:

There is a lot of great information in this 3.0 Fluval thread but it seems to be losing it's momentum.

@Streetwise can you advise on the past few posts or direct us to some forum members to poke? 

[MichelleN]

@John Henrythanks so much for your kind response. I'm definitely going to increase the fertilizer. I've been manually adding after water testing the past two weeks so I'm ready to bump up the auto dosing now. 

Then maybe bump up the CO2 a touch while holding the light steady.  We moved the diffuser into the sump right below the pump shortly after my post and we're getting a better distribution of bubbles throughout the tank this way, seem closer to 10ppm than 15pm. It's hard but I'm trying to stick to a two weeks observation between alterations rule. 🙂

I do have Nerites (4) and Amono (5) plus a small heard of ramshorn. I'm going to get more Amono when I see them in stock. I  haven't the heart right now for adding Ottos. I love them, and currently have 4 in my 29 in the living room, which are entering year 3. But those 4 are the survivors of two batches of 6 purchased. Poor little wild caught critters. I was forewarned losses are heavy the first month, but that was painful😢. I'm not even brave enough to move the 4 I have. My plan someday is to start a tank outside to get tons of algae going to quarantine my next batch of Ottos in. That will be a project for warmer weather. Lol 

Edited February 18, 2023 by MichelleN

[nabokovfan87]

On 2/3/2023 at 7:21 PM, MichelleN said:

2 Fluval 3.0 48"  on a 120 g high, 48×24x24 tank. I think it's an Aqueon, bought it used.  Short question is how close to 100% should I go with the two lamps on this tank for a medium light level.  Longer version below with pics. 

I may have posted in an earlier post, but when I set up my 75G I'll grab the profile and re-post and tag you.  I think 65-75% is "fine" for most tanks and gives you flexibility.  Should be the same situation as my 75, but you have slightly more distance front to back.

[nabokovfan87]

On 5/14/2022 at 11:46 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

This is the current profile I am running:

For reference, My larger light is slightly off of these settings, but this is a good place to start and tweak accordingly.  I've tuned things since this post and I am also working on testing a second light. 

The information starting in this thread at the top of page 3 is also really relevant to how we setup our lights and worth taking a look at.

[nabokovfan87]

On 2/3/2023 at 7:21 PM, MichelleN said:

Tank is now at 2 month (post cycle) stage.   So it's new, some algae is expected over the the next year, especially has some was already present on the plants. But I'd like to keep it reasonable.  BBA that was on Annubias is reducing nicely. But we're getting some string now and a bit of stag. 

I would reduce your peak window by 1.5-2 hours, and keep things the same.  Monitor progress forward, but do so with manual removal of the BBA and spot dosing it as you can with hydrogen peroxide or easy carbon / flourish excel.

If the anubias is stubborn with the BBA, you'd want to make sure it's not directly under the light and offset towards darker parts of the tank.

[nabokovfan87]

On 2/22/2023 at 8:55 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

For reference, My larger light is slightly off of these settings, but this is a good place to start and tweak accordingly.  I've tuned things since this post and I am also working on testing a second light. 

This is my 48" light. It's been "reset" so to speak back to my starting tweak. If you ever have this light and just aren't sure, this is my own personal starting point.

More demanding plants, eventually adjust light intensity up.

Less demanding plants, like only anubias, then you can likely adjust lower.

Shallower tank, probably start lower.

I scale these all at the same ratio and try to keep the same spread/settings for each channel in relation to pure white.

 

[Jacob Hill-Legion Aquatics]

@Streetwise @Cory Is it possible to make a similar thread to this one for the new co-op light? Id love to see what setting others are using.

For example someone could say "I'm using level 6 for these plants... in this size tank... and this is what kind of growth I'm getting...

Edited March 31, 2023 by Jacob Hill-Legion Aquatics

[nabokovfan87]

On 11/20/2022 at 10:13 AM, JJenna said:

I put some Christmas Moss on a piece of decor on Tuesday. It's only about 6-8" from my light. What I think is hair algae has started growing. Are the algae growing because the moss is too close to the light?  If that's so, where is the best placement of my light (Fluval Plant 3.0)? I had the light more centered on the tank. Should I put the light more towards back of tank? Or, was it because I originally had lights at factory preset in Auto mode for a couple of days but readjusted after watching Pascoe's videos?

It's not easy to justify this one on the light, my apologies I just saw the post!

Moss can be temperamental and it sounds like what you're dealing with is similar to what I've seen in other's tanks when trying to get moss going.

In general, for moss there's a few key tips.

A. Start with it trimmed and attached to something, I can send a few videos with different techniques for this. The goal being that the moss is cut into 1/4" pieces and then allowed to grow starting from a small piece.

B. Cutting the moss encourages growth. Which helps with the activity level of the plant. Moss can be similar to anubias in terms of setup, very low demand and very slow growing. It can also grow "pretty quick" by comparison to other plants.

C. The interesting thing too is placement. Structure is one thing, mentioned above, but the placement of moss also is key. If the moss is in a section of very strong flow as opposed to one that is calmer or even less intense you might have a different level of success with the plant.

D. Dosing iron might help the plants in that tank.

Given the photo, I would recommend using a fork or toothbrush to try to detach the string algae, then cut the moss up with scissors or a knife+cutting board and then attach it with some method. Super glue on hard scape is how I generally handle it.

In terms of your setup, the settings on the light don't seem to be too intense. For my low demand tank this is the setup I have running. While I won't say "do this" in terms of the expert mode or anything. I was mostly just messing around with it.

1. The time the light is on seems good. Not too long.

2.  In terms of my settings, the light is at about half of what your settings are. I would bump things down to 35% and see how that helps or things change. If you have more than just java Fern and moss in the tank, then reply and we can discuss further, but that's what I could see in the tank, low demand.

3. Consider turning down the cool white channel ever so slightly. Especially compared to the pure white channel. Don't be afraid of having blue in there (cool white) because plants do need that spectrum, but considering the range on this light it does push blue really hard and that tends to cause algae for a lot of tanks.

Here is the moss in the tank with the lighting mentioned.

 

[nabokovfan87]

I wanted to share this as a means of looking at how to setup your light.

The above photo shows a bit of the difference and the layout when it comes to the LED channels on this light.  You can see the pink, blue, and warm white channels pretty easily.  There are also Cool blue and pure white LEDs. 

When it comes to the spectrum of the light we have the following chart.

We have a very strong spike at the 450nm spectrum, but we do see a generally good spread across all of the color ranges.  Pushing red on this light (pinks and reds) would help to increase the 680nm range and above. 

The goal being to understand what colors and channels the plants you have want, to turn those to the appropriate levels, and to set correctly the channels that might not be contributing as much, causing algae growth as an example.  This is where the amount of LEDs on the light comes into play.  How many LEDs are there on each channel?  When we set pure white LEDs to 75%, how much of this is the % of the total par? 

This is something we saw in Cory's videos where he turned the par meter on for each channel.  It's an interesting topic and it's something to keep in mind when you are trying to optimize a certain color range for your tank.  Maybe you're trying to highlight the red for a specific fish/plant, or perhaps you're wanting to highlight cooler hues.  That is entirely a topic in itself.

What I wanted to share the image for above was simply to put into perspective the layout of the color channels.  Of course the channel with the most LEDs will be the pure white.  On the 48" light we have the following breadown of LEDs.



Pure white: 182 LEDs (54.2%)
Warm white: 70 LEDs (20.8%)
Cool white: 28 LEDs (8.3%)
Pink: 14 LEDs (4.2%)
Blue: 42 LEDs (12.5%)

We do see this on the light itself as well.

Blue:
Pink:
Cool White:
Warm White:
Pure White:

Secondly, here is an older chart from fluval talking about each channel individually on an older light advertisement.


Essentially, you might be trying to highlight a certain channel, but based on the setup of that channel it's prudent to be aware with how many LEDs are involved and the strength of those LEDs to impact your plants.

This may also shed light into some setups and how different settings impact algae growth.

Edited April 5, 2023 by nabokovfan87

[PaigeIs]

I found this post so helpful, I bookmarked it so I can reference it every time I adjust light settings.  Thank You!!!