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Fluval Plant 3.0 Scheduling and Programming


Streetwise

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33808010_FluvalPlant3.0.JPG.d7b6542960d278d26a23210cbb5a91f4.JPG

The Fluval Plant 3.0 lights are really nice, especially for the scheduling and light-level programming available thru the FluvalSmart app. I have ten of the Plant Nanos, several of the 15"-24" models, and one 24"-34" unit. I have spent a lot of time in the app to get things right for my tanks so that I can grow plants, keep algae under control, and get to enjoy my tanks when I am around.

I will post my own details in a follow-up message, but I have some general tips to share before that.

1. Firmware Updates: When you do firmware updates, it might look like a two-step process, but you just have to be patient since the bootloader is updated first, and then the firmware, so don't interrupt the process or click what looks like an extra prompt. I have not done a firmware update for a while, so be aware that the user experience might change. If you mess up, or need to do the upgrade again, swipe left on your light in the FluvalSmart app for the option to Upgrade or Remove.

2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but not between the Plant Nano and the larger models. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units. The way to do this is to "Save as" your program on one configured light, and then go into the matching target light, and choose "Export", and pick the program. I would expect the option to be labelled "Import", but it is not at the time of this post.

3. Power and Timer: These lights do not seem to have any internal batteries to maintain the time. If you have a power outage or interruption, they will assume the power-on time is 00:00 (midnight), and count from there until you access the light via the FluvalSmart app, which will sync the time.

4. Naming and Password: When editing a light, you can use the three dots to Find, Rename, Set password, and Remove password. I recommend naming your lights, especially if you get more than one. You can even sort them by name or type in the light list, so think about the names in context with your room layout. Password might be useful with too-clever kids, or in a professional environment, like a retail store.

5. Modes: For each light, you have three modes, Manual, Automatic, and Professional.

Manual gives you Off, or On, with a custom light level and no scheduling. This is the perfect mode to use for photography, showing your aquariums on off-hours, or if you need to make some darkness so you can sleep in, or film other tanks in the same room.

Automatic is an easy scheduling mode with presets for Tropical River, Lake Malawi, and Planted, and you can modify or create your own. It only includes seven set points, so you get a ramp up, a sustained period, a ramp down, an evening low-light period (often just a little blue), and a full night period.

Professional mode gives you ten set points, which allows you do do a lot more custom lighting choices, including simulating the sky of a certain region, running a siesta (low or no-light midday period, simulating cloud and tree cover), or even dual siestas, which is what I use. I will add more on this later, once I collect my app screenshots.

6. Plant Nano Tips: The mount only fits on rimless tanks without modification. The metal L-bracket can be used backwards for more height and less reach, which is great for emergent plants and hardscape.

If you have an odd size tank, you can also add felt feet and run the Plant Nanos right on a clear hood or glass. I donated a Nano to someone to figure out a 3D-printed rimmed mount, and he designed an adapter.

Here is the 3D print file from  @AquariumThoughts  for the rimmed mount for the Plant 3.0 Nano. You will also need an m8-1.25 nut.

From @PlaneFishGuy:

"Below is a quick cheat sheet I made for those just wanting to simply reduce the lighting intensity but keep the factory ratios in tact. I started with the factory "daylight setting" from the app when using the Fluval Plant Nano 3.0"

542536899_FluvalDaylightChart.jpg.f249a0

More quotes are forthcoming.

 

Please share your own Fluval Plant 3.0 programs. On iOS, the Overview tab shows the lighting program as a graph and a table.

Our host, Aquarium Co-Op, carries these lights:

fluval-plant-30-led-nano_240x.jpg?v=1590

6554b6be8c0d829a8bf63ae0c82cf121_link.pn Fluval Plant 3.0 LED NANO

WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM

3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year...

 

fluval-plant-30-led-light_240x.jpg?v=159

6554b6be8c0d829a8bf63ae0c82cf121_link.pn Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Light

WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM

3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year...
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Dual siestas have a few reasons, but the human one is, that adding darkness and low-light periods can stretch your viewing time without creating problems. Perhaps you are working from home these days...

These are the schedules that I use for my low-tech, organic-soil tanks. Updated for new firmware which shows all colors.

Plant 3.0 Nano in short configuration, for 2.5 to 10 gallon tanks:

IMG_2081.PNG.00fc195ea3101e248d004029ef638bf3.PNG

Plant 3.0 Nano in tall configuration, for 2.5 to 10 gallon tanks:

IMG_2082.PNG.be73d895dfda540755066550f97e714e.PNG

Plant 3.0 15-24" on the rim, for 15-20 gallon tanks:

IMG_2084.PNG.435f18e1c56bfdb898727be0a4d2a42d.PNG

Edited by Streetwise
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Love it ty! I have the nano on my pennplex radius 10 gallon and I love it. My son’s Topf in has a submersible nicrew suction cupped to the lid since the hood is low and closed off. 
I really like the siesta ideas. My tank gets loads of sun but I’ve got it very planted and growth is great. I don’t want to CO2 in my living room with a 4.5 year old. 
Wondering where you’re from. Do tell?

I need to get an updated shot after I water change today. So much change. 

B52F8CAC-6193-4050-A111-BB641E362F57.jpeg

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On 7/14/2020 at 7:33 PM, Streetwise said:

2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but only of the same size model. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units.

FYI, I am able to share programming between my 36" and 48" versions. Perhaps there's something unique about the Nanos that don't translate to the standard length versions.

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Stephen, thanks for the information. I have updated the post to reflect that. None of my current tanks are more than about 22" wide. Maybe someone here can test the compatibility of 15" and 24" model programming with the larger sizes you mention, just to to confirm for those models. The Plant Nano may just stand alone, with slightly different technology, perhaps because it does not have a physical button.

Tre, I'm from Vermont. I'll post some aquarium and tub journals in the future. BTW, Diana Walstad discusses siestas in Chapter XI, Section 2. Light.

Cheers

Edited by Streetwise
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On 7/14/2020 at 5:33 PM, Streetwise said:

The Fluval Plant 3.0 lights are really nice, especially for the scheduling and light-level programming available thru the FluvalSmart app. I have about ten of the Plant Nanos, and three of the 15"-24" models, which are the newest of this Fluval line. Since these are currently the only lights I run, I have spent a lot of time in the app to get things right for my tanks so that I can grow plants, keep algae under control, and get to enjoy my tanks when I am around.

I will post my own details in a follow-up message, but I have some general tips to share before that.

1. Firmware Updates: When you do firmware updates, it might look like a two-step process, but you just have to be patient since the bootloader is updated first, and then the firmware, so don't interrupt the process or click what looks like an extra prompt. I have not done a firmware update for a while, so be aware that the user experience might change. If you mess up, or need to do the upgrade again, swipe left on your light in the FluvalSmart app for the option to Upgrade or Remove.

2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but not between the Plant Nano and the larger models. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units. The way to do this is to "Save as" your program on one configured light, and then go into the matching target light, and choose "Export", and pick the program. I would expect the option to be labelled "Import", but it is not at the time of this post.

3. Power and Timer: These lights do not seem to have any internal batteries to maintain the time. If you have a power outage or interruption, they will assume the power-on time is 00:00 (midnight), and count from there until you access the light via the FluvalSmart app, which will sync the time.

4. Naming and Password: When editing a light, you can use the three dots to Find, Rename, Set password, and Remove password. I recommend naming your lights, especially if you get more than one. You can even sort them by name or type in the light list, so think about the names in context with your room layout. Password might be useful with too-clever kids, or in a professional environment, like a retail store.

5. Modes: For each light, you have three modes, Manual, Automatic, and Professional.

Manual gives you Off, or On, with a custom light level and no scheduling. This is the perfect mode to use for photography, showing your aquariums on off-hours, or if you need to make some darkness so you can sleep in, or film other tanks in the same room.

Automatic is an easy scheduling mode with presets for Tropical River, Lake Malawi, and Planted, and you can modify or create your own. It only includes seven set points, so you get a ramp up, a sustained period, a ramp down, an evening low-light period (often just a little blue), and a full night period.

Professional mode gives you ten set points, which allows you do do a lot more custom lighting choices, including simulating the sky of a certain region, running a siesta (low or no-light midday period, simulating cloud and tree cover), or even dual siestas, which is what I use. I will add more on this later, once I collect my app screenshots.

6. Plant Nano Tips: The mount only fits on rimless tanks without modification. The metal L-bracket can be used backwards for more height and less reach, which is great for emergent plants and hardscape. If you have an odd size tank, you can also add felt feet and run the Plant Nanos right on a clear hood or glass. I donated a Nano to someone to figure out a 3D-printed rimmed mount, so we might see a cool design come out of that.

Our host, Aquarium Co-Op, carries these lights:

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/lights/products/fluval-plant-3-0-led-light

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/lights/products/fluval-plant-3-0-led-nano

Hopefully we can share our schedules and tips to get the most out of these lights!

Cheers,

Jason

Just got mine in yesterday what’s the best setup for a planted tank but won’t let algae grow like crazy 

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2 minutes ago, Leo2o915 said:

Just got mine in yesterday what’s the best setup for a planted tank but won’t let algae grow like crazy 

It's going to depend on the height of your tank, the plants you have, and your fertilizer dosing schedule. I've had the best success in starting light settings pretty low and establishing a consistent fert schedule. Then over a period of weeks to months, I start ramping up the light schedule in response to higher-light plants showing deficiencies or overall slow growth. Took me a long time to realize patience is key, not reacting and changing things daily based on how I think the plants should look tomorrow. In a newly planted tank, algae is going to happen regardless until you find the balance and until your plants are established and readily taking in nutrients to outcompete the algae.

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4 minutes ago, Leo2o915 said:

It’s a 20 long trying to control the algae problem right now that’s why I got that light 🙂 so how low should I have it at ? 

Maybe someone who has a 20 long could chime in. Those are pretty short tanks, and the 3.0 can really pump out some photons. I would start simple though, maybe an 8-hour photo period with a max of 25%, keeping the blue light at 5%. This is just a guess, though, and not really as a method of fighting existing algae but rather to give your plants some adjustment time.

What light were you running before? I've never heard of upgrading a light to fight algae, unless your other one was too bright with no good way to dim it.

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7 minutes ago, StephenP2003 said:

Maybe someone who has a 20 long could chime in. Those are pretty short tanks, and the 3.0 can really pump out some photons. I would start simple though, maybe an 8-hour photo period with a max of 25%, keeping the blue light at 5%. This is just a guess, though, and not really as a method of fighting existing algae but rather to give your plants some adjustment time.

What light were you running before? I've never heard of upgrading a light to fight algae, unless your other one was too bright with no good way to dim it.

I just wanted a better light that was programable 

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Sharing my settings for my 90 gallon:

It's 24" tall with a pretty deep substrate. Everything doing very well in there. The intensity of the light causes algae growth at the top of my 3d background, but that's why I have a dozen amano shrimp in there. They've pretty much set up shop on the upper third of the background.

Note: All the percentages for each color are the same, but the blue stands alone below the rest.

 

Fluval light settings.jpg

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Here is my lighting schedule for my 40 breeder. Heavily planted with Co2 injection.  I recently increased my co2 from 1.5 bubbles per sec to about 2.5. Also this scedule is what I am currently running as of 2 days ago.  I was running higher intensity and longer duration but the growth was to fast and once the plants reach the surface the leaves grow algae. I have also noticed algae increasing in general so I'm hoping the increased co2 and lower light will help a bit. Still trying to balance the tank. 

Below are my previous settingsScreenshot_20200720-104631_FluvalSmart.jpg.75fbc3adf2f267832f249750f85d8264.jpg

Below are my current settings

Screenshot_20200730-191619_FluvalSmart.jpg.c066327c51d1c26238f55cb5e5a9aa0d.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi! I hope it isn't too late to post here. If I need to start my own topic, let me know. @Streetwise suggested I take a look at this thread. I would like your opinion on my lighting schedule.

Fluval 3.0, 90 Gallon, NilCog root tabs with Easy Green after weekly water change. Sometimes I add Easy Carbon. The tank has been running for about  3 weeks, seeded with "Seed".

Problem #1: Of all things, my Cabomba won't show new growth after pruning. Other plants  with good growth include: ludwigia, swords, pogostemon stellatus, lotus. I am also having a little bit of diatoms. Opinions on light schedule (or anything else) are appreciated!

Problem #2: The water consistently shows a yellow cast. I like a clear bright light with no yellow. I have turned all my warm light to zero in an attempt to replicate the light from my Finnex stingrays. Should I continue to do water changes or is it something with my light settings?

Thank you so much- If you need more info or I need to start my own thread let me know! Syndi

IMG_1406.PNG

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