nabokovfan87

@andieb It could be a type of contaminant like soap as well, not necessarily ammonia. Water changes will help as well as something like running carbon in your filtration. Let us know what you find out! Are the fish showing any signs of stress, is all equipment working properly?

@LizardleFemme Please post in the Disease section with full details. There's a header on the category when you go into that section with minimum details people would need to offer some help. Given your explanation about, more details on what happened as well as current state would be beneficial.

Yes you can use them. They might not be as effective as something intended for a bigger tank. If you run into issues, you can try to mount them higher up on the glass so they don't have to deal with pushing as much depth to get the air through the line.

Little Gman.... be a good lad for us! Hopefully everything goes ok, stay safe.

@Jaspyjasp It's likely something where the combo of salt + Ich-X does a lot of work for you. Hopefully good news when you report back on that. What is the GH, KH, and temp in the tank?

KH seems good. GH, let me double check the needs there to see if that indicates anything. Some fish need a little bit of GH for proper development. GH should be fine. Filtration looks good. Tank looks fine. There aren't any obvious issues here. Keep us posted as far as treatment and lets hope the white sore goes away and you see the fins healing up soon. There can be a delayed or slow response given severity. It's often important to run the full two week treatments indicated on the kanaplex packages if you don't see any signs of stress after the first course. Does your tap water have high KH?

I seriously wish the 29G's had one. I think 37's do, but I've never seen one in person. 100% A "happy medium, is this method. Really cool to see this process. There's also some vids of people using plastic fill and heat to "solder" or heal the cracked rim. I think the cracked trim might be a symptom and not the only thing going on. As mentioned before, if it was sitting for a while in storage be sure to go through it with a fine tooth comb.

75G is a lot of water. I'd repair it or replace it with some sort of a eurobrace style thing. They do have those new 60B tanks that are pretty awesome in dimensions and might be easier to work in. It sounds like the (and looks like) the tank was on storage or something and got damaged. I would definitely go through it with a fine tooth comb before setting it up in a permanent situation. A 75G has a cross brace. I imagine in some aspect it is structural at least to stop Blowing? Not all aspects are structural and your explanation is exactly why, it hides some flaws.

Aquatic fundamentals is likely a house brand at this point for one of the big box stores. I've seen them all over the place and a lot of people on the forums have used them. 55G isn't as common these days. You could even consider a 75G stand and then use a 55G tank on that stand (if you already have the tank). It gives you an upgrade path too. It's probably likely we see the 55G phased out and the newer 60B take it's place. Less items to be stocked and someone buying a 75 vs 60B tank can use the same stand, lids, light, filters, etc. I have the Brooklyn one. It works just fine. I have that same style for one of my 29G as well.

The only concern with plants would be the salt. Salt is pretty critical to help them given what you're dealing with. As opposed to removing them (if the tank is 20G or smaller) then I would just pull plants if you're concerned. The other way to do that is to move the fish to a QT tank. What kind of filter? Lean closer towards ,~30% as opposed to closer to the 10% to avoid something like old tank syndrome. Please test when you can. Having GH and KH is also helpful. This is one of most important videos I think Cory has ever made. Should be good.

Looks awesome. Congratulations on the progress. They love that food! Check on your GH/KH when you can for all the tanks to see if you see anything.

On one it does look like fin rot. On the other it might be body rot, but the fins are ok. It looks like (very hard to tell) some sort of wound that is infected. What are all of your water parameters and your temperature for this fish? When was your last water change and filter cleaning? How much water do you normally change? Recommendation right now is going to be pretty common treatment for fin rot type of injuries. -Aquarium salt: 1 tbsp per 2 Gallon -Catappa leaves / botanicals: recommended for antifungal and antibacterial -Kanaplex or Neoplex per the directions on the bottle. ----> Kanaplex is a minimum of 2 weeks ----> Neoplex is a minimum of 3 weeks -Ich-X can be used as an anti-fungal med if you're seeing cotton like fuzzy wounds. It's not mandatory, but it's worth mentioning in case you do not have any on hand.

Looks great. Technical declarations from an engineering side. It's not rated or tested for outdoor use. Also of note is that it's plastic and that will essentially become brittle outdoors. On Cory's pond they actually ended up burying them in the ground and building a container for them (this is very common for ponds) and they do sell above ground UV / waterproof containers. The big concern is UV and Rain.

These are very similar to the "big box store" brand stands under the brooklyn style name. They are a bit thinner material and reviews on them do specify some weight issues. Last I checked (literally yesterday) they were running deep discounts on some of their stands as well, as much to 60% off on some styles. As far as what that stand can hold, it's from a brand that I don't know the engineering standards of, which means that if something happens, you're at the mercy of getting in contact with that company for any damage claims.

I tried to see the white spots. Unfortunately, it's difficult to tell what they look like. For the sake of clarity, can you test your water and post all the details including temperature.

Purely a UGF, it's likely better with the tubes in there.

This one also came to mind and fits the theme. Just the philosophy of care is great.

Very interesting.... I think water level may have been at play here as well, but good on Seachem for doing the right thing of replacing parts to try to alleviate any issues. Marina has one that is pretty well designed for a smaller setup with low flow. I would also recommend the marineland penguin pro as one of the better adjustable filters. I don't recommend the tidal with a betta as it's very easy for those fins to end up in the pump. This video talks a bit about how water height can greatly impact noise.

To expand on the "condition of the impeller chamber" as a cause for concern.... A lot of the issues with the AC restarting, noise, etc. can be attributed to the impeller shaft being damaged. It doesn't take a lot of time for that impeller shaft to show some wear either. To be clear, I am not trying to "hate on" the AC filter. People enjoy them and admire them, more power to you, but there is also a lot of great information that has been gathered for decades at this point with user feedback. Common reasons any filter without self-priming may not start: 1. Poor maintenance 2. Impeller is past service life or damaged (magnet is weak) 3. Sand substrate 4. Intake is not aligned 5. Air is trapped, pump is not strong enough to push the air through the pump. 6. Filter is leaning "backwards" and drained itself during power outtage 7. Water siphoned down the intake and out of the box 8. Water level in the tank is low (this is not the same as #6 or #7) 9. Pump is on, impeller is stuck (usually because of #1-3) 10. Surface of the pump shaft / impeller is worn down and no lubrication was used during maintenance I am sure there's other reasons, but you get the just. There's so many reasons for a filter to just not start up. This doesn't mean that X is better than Y or that because one person had a filter start up that they all do (or don't). Unfortunately there are defects, manufacturing flaws, shipping damages, and other reasons for things to just not last as long as they should also! In my experience, the #1 reason an AC won't start back up.... this thing: (first one is a very extreme example, the others are more typical) I wish I had a cross-section of every HoB on the market for this. Definitely something I pay attention to!

Have them drill the sink and mount the soap bottle to the side. That way it cannot be picked up. Very unfortunate and it's likely going to be an issue in future as well. Maybe a sign of "rules for the tank" may do some good? There's always that one rebellious kid. White clouds, rainbow fish. You can breed them at a semi slow pace to control the population. Some nano type corydoras as well would be great (or otocinclus) and amano shrimp. Edit: I realize this thread is very, very old. Hopefully things improved!

My deepest condolences @FLFishChik I have been there myself and had the same feelings you experienced. I recently learned of a lot of some smaller puffer species that get right in the 1-2" range. Maybe those are easier to get to eat and care for and available in your area?

Banded (maybe clouded) archer fish? https://badmanstropicalfish.com/archer-fish-care/

I hope your head is feeling better! I have some gnarly headaches sometimes so I empathize. As for the ToN..... I'm going to need to see this puppy! I hope things are doing better and I am right there with you as far as having an "emergency tote" of bubblers and things to drop into tanks on a moments notice. One of my close calls, you're sitting there and doing the water change, waiting for the tank to fill. You;re there, paying attention and then you hear the telltale waterfall noise. There's been plenty of times I have asked for help so I can be at the tank and yell down the hallway for someone to turn the faucet off. I have since informed people which way to turn the knobs to turn the water off because there's always that "just in the nick of time" whoops turned the water up instead of down and panicked to turn it off in time. Give yourself a cushion, don't get distracted! It happens to the best of us.

I actually found a place that makes sump inserts for standard aqueon tanks! Let me try to find it. (Oceanbox Designs is one company. Fiji Cube is another. Really awesome product idea! I love this)

It's a bit counter to what you have in process with the cycling, but barring squeezing some other tank filtration gunk into this one.... Salt, botanicals, and air would be the place to start just for sake of trying to help the ram's immune response. Something as simple as depth of the tank, you might need to have a stronger pump or more of them in order to get the water churning. Especially at that temp, if it was in my fishroom, I would have a wall of bubbles all along the back of the tank. I found this, measurements from a water resource in nature at various temperatures. (depth also plays a role too) It is part of a longer, more detailed document, but this is just something to visually clarify what could be going on here. I don't know if oxygenation and nitrite correlate to an issue here, but i can't imagine adding the above 3 items would do anything but help the situation.