nabokovfan87

You would just dose the TANK itself with the full dose for the entire tank. 33G is about 3/5ths of a cap on seachem prime. Check the bottle for what you have on hand. Once you add it, then add water from the tap and you're done.

Same issue. LOL. My 55G tank stand is now a set of shelves. One day it'll look like this! I often stare at the stand and wonder if I can get other tanks, 20L's and so forth on the stand instead.

They might have them listed as something else. Julii cory is commonly a mislabeled "false julii" cory. What I mean is the actual "false julii" which is the corydoras trilineatus. Either one has the same care, but usually always mixed up and confused. This is for the Albino Cory: For just about everything, 78 is about the max, 80 is too hot. PH is going to be a similar story. They just don't like the 7.5+ range, but 7.5 is often listed as the limit. When a range is listed, I try to shoot for the middle of it.

RTBS is probably way too small of a tank for them. Barbs: Melon barbs, Odessa barbs. I kept white clouds with mine. As the fish get big you're going to run into some pecking and fighting. So I would try to stick to bigger schools of smaller fish. Kabutai rasbora, white clouds, etc. Melon barbs I think stay decently small, but others stay pretty big. With the scape you have, it's a PERFECT setup for some hillstream loaches or borneo loaches. 🙂 All you would need to do is add an airstone somewhere. Corydoras also work if you want something on the bottom to clean up food the fish miss out on. with the sand, they'd do well.

I have a fish only sponge I use for stuff like that. Then do a WC after. Razor blade might also work.

You would stress them. They don't enjoy tanks that warm, 78 is about the max they do decently at and being that hot day to day is just going to shorten lifespan. Julii cory's do better warmer. PH. you're right on the edge. So if you were to keep them I'd recommend adding some wood, some organics to the water to try to lower the PH as much as you can or keep it as low as possible, consistently.

Very awesome to hear!

Parameters look the same as amanos. My only concern is if they are going to have a population boom and outcompete the amanos. For the time being, I'd remove them to a different tub, even a bucket with a handful of substrate and a sponge filter. If you don't see zoeys in 2-3 months then you're fine. If you find out how they breed and it's possible in just freshwater, I would remove one of them from your main tank.

Pretty much the same as pandas. From what I've seen. I keep my pandas, when humanly possible, with good aeration, cooler temps, PH is around 6.8 for me and swings from 6.3-7.1 or so.

I will triple check the posts above, but I wanted to mention a method based on the OP. WHY you would want to avoid daily changes and perform larger water changes. Essentially, Let's say you're doing a "flow through" type of setup. Water is always flowing into the tank and you have an overflow (or weir) and you're trying to use that as your main method. Typically what you would see is that the overflow goes to the sump. To remove water you'd have a pump to the floor drain or a tube that goes to the drain or you'd turn on the valve to drain water. SO.... let's assume "best case scenario" and that you have a flow through concept. 4 ft tank, input on one end and output on the other end. Water might have the striations based on temperature or some other parameter and some portion of your new water is going to go from the input, float across the top, and flow out. Using wavemakers or pumps would push things around and mix that up, let's assume that's the setup. It's hard to "know" what amount of water you're truly changing. The slower the flow (or using a spraybar to randomize the output pattern) would help to keep things mixed as best as possible and force the pumps/equipment to churn things up. What you really want is something that flows in and then the junk flows out, but it's not that simple. This is where big water changes, less often, can be beneficial. This gives you a chance to go in and remove the muck, target the waste, clean things up, and have a bigger impact on water quality. There is some interesting stuff by the Monterey Bay Aquarium regarding their care of great white sharks (not recommended, please don't do this!) and it actually focuses pretty well on this issue. A LOT of sharks don't pump water over their gills. The breathe by swimming and swimming too slowly or not having enough flow actually causes deaths. They have records on how long they've been able to keep sharks alive, and it's a real bad time for those who cherish the species to see them suffering in this way. We are learning things by doing this, but it's very difficult on the fish and they will never really be able to be kept in a zoo/aquarium...... because they don't have this magical flow through system with constant 0 nitrates. Because they can't have the same dilution as the ocean, the same flow as the ocean, and it's so difficult to replicate that specific instance, that is why you run into such issues in that environment. If you wanted to have a best bet in terms of the overall design of a tank like this, river tanks is where you'd be able to get close. The amount of water flowing in is very high and the tank drains on the opposite end. You don't have water being removed, but that method for moving water on a massive scale is sort of where this goes. To try to replicate this at home I would imagine that flowing water into the tank, then that goes through the filtration, before it gets pumped back through into the tank, part of that water is siphoned out at the same rate from the sump. I would hope the plants keep things stable for you, especially in that tank. I would keep things weekly or 2x a week at most just to keep things stable. Dosing weekly, several times a week, etc. is going to be determined by the algae and tank parameters.

Dosing some Ich-X might be the best way. methylene blue. etc. If you are concerned, please share a photo of the tank (top and front view) and let me know what filtration and equipment you're using.

second to that. Run some carbon to be very safe. Especially with shrimp. amanos aren't cheap 😞 Usually with parasites you're just treating the tank and doing gravel vacs is pretty critical.

maybe there is something in here to help point out any issues. Air is a big one, being too strong or not strong enough.

If you want a "nice bag" I'd recommend the seachem tidal (probably the tidal 55 size) depending on which HoB you're using. I don't recommend anything bigger. You can use 2x the 55's in a 75g HoB, etc. The other option that's cheaper is going to be the aquaclear carbon bags. It's not a zippered bag that you can refill, but I'm sure we all have used those a few times. It's just a cheap bag, sewn shut, of carbon. It works. The other thing to keep in mind is the amount of carbon in a cartridge vs. an actual bag of carbon. It's not even close. Yeah, it might work.... but you're talking 24 hours (maybe 48) compared to something like a week or more.

Awesome stuff. I would try to swing a 75 if you can. It's a 55 with more depth and you'll get a ton more tank room. I started with a 55 and especially with corydoras you just want that extra bit of room for them to roam around 🙂 More room for plants also!

Prefilter added. We'll see how it goes. this is the ACO medium size. It really does not have a hold near big enough for this intake so you're going to cut it by hand and that might be difficult for some. I don't really have another option and using a fine pore sponge will likely end up with the pump choking out. I turned off the filter, installed it, and I really just don't have an ease of access to this for cleaning. I'll figure it out, but I know it's going to be an issue in this scape. I repaired the basket that broke. Setup right now is just interim. I did end up doing the bonding holes, I scuffed up the plastic, and I cleaned and prepped the surfaces properly. We'll see how it holds up.

They did ok with it. I tried the bag method and it wasn't the easiest. It's always difficult to mix this without a whisk and doing this in a bag it's a risk of things getting torn. It's done, probably not mixed too well. I did the bag method because I wanted to directly freeze this batch. Because it wasn't open to the air to help cool it, it took almost an hour to set. Just over. I did a mix of 1:3 so the texture was a bit softer for the fish as well (mostly corydoras).

I would start here. For your specific issue I would recommend crushed coral. If that isn't viable, look into seachem alkalinity buffer. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh

Looks like it might be camouflage to me, but let's see what others say.

If you're concerned with tannins, run carbon and you'll have it disappear in about 24-48 hours. You can then control it with water changes. When it gets bad, you just run the carbon again.

I wouldn't mess with the photo length. Eufy has the decent quality camera you can view the tank. You can use kasa outlets and view what is / isn't powered. It's a great tool to have for the sake of trying to ensure what is and isn't working for you. Something like easy green might make things a lot more tolerable. If you're doing anything extravagent then I highly recommend the red sea or the seachem dosing pumps (if you can find them). They both work the same way, should be fine. Before you leave, you check things, and you can find one that is app controlled.

Yes. That's all I use. Fish poop and Root Tabs. Easy Green, etc.

If your nitrates stay below 10.... If you see that stem plant yellowing moreso, paleness, I would try to keep an eye on that specifically and consider dosing 2x a week. Even half dose 2x a week might be all it takes. Test nitrates every 2-3 days after dosing, end of the day. If it's 0-5, then in the morning on the following day (so, midweek on your normal schedule) then I would dose again. It's one of the ones that's incredibly hard to read for me, so please use your best judgement on the results you're seeing.

do you dose 1 time a week or 2?

Tank was just dosed hours ago with 3 pumps of Easy Green so this may skew results. Phosphate testing Results -Tank: Approx 1.0 ppm -Tap: Approx 0 ppm I did end up dropping the light another 10%, bumping the CO2. I ordered a new drop checker (shape on this one is a bit wonky and might be causing issues, the air bubble doesn't sit right). I also ordered a new diffuser for the sake of "if" I need one that works a bit better for the tank. The new one I can drop much lower in the tank, which will help. I am still working on placement and trying to determine if I should move it, scrape the back glass and drop the CO2 right under the HoB outlet, or just add a pump head on a timer with the CO2. Next step is daily or testing often for fertilizers and then potentially reviewing lighting by adding a siesta in the middle. The only real concern is that it would be a dramatic change and I am focused on very small changes. This stuff absolutely SUCKS to try to remove manually. Edit: I hooked up the pumphead and it's way too much flow for this tank. The otos, plecos, corys all didn't enjoy it. I wish I had one with a nozzle to better direct it, but I also just with I had one about 1/3 the size and power. The one I have is an Aquatop from ACO back in the day. 158 GPH I believe was the spec.