Mmiller2001

Ah okay, Flourish is just a supplement of Micros and almost no Macros. It looks like the plants are dropping lower leaves to support new growth. Unfortunately, root tabs can be misleading and a comprehensive water column dosing schedule is still needed. You will want to use an all in one fertilizer like Easy Green or NilocG. They're others, but these are easy to get.

I use a Chihiros WRGB 2. I don't think my current setup would be considered heavily planted. You can take what @Seattle_Aquaristjust posted a bit further and apply it to longer photo periods. There's another measure called Daily Light Integral or DLI. It's a fancy conversion of PPFD and LUX to DLI, but the simple explanation is how many photons plants receive in a 24 hour period. So DLI can be altered by light intensity and duration. Let's say any light is on for 1 hour at 100% intensity, and just for numbers sake, 10 was our DLI. If I increase duration to 2 hours and drop intensity to 50%, DLI is still 10. Again, these are not true numbers, but just a very basic example of how it works. The same number of photons are hitting the plants although the photo period is longer. So I'm using this strategy for the 11 hour photoperiod. I just keep dropping light intensity. I'm almost at my sweet spot and I'm right about at 50% intensity with this Chihiros. Disclaimer, I'm not smart and could have told you wrong, but this is my very basic understanding of DLI.

What does your dosing look like for column fertilizer?

Running 2 is a lot of light for sure. I would try 50% on both and just see what happens. Having 2 now will give you good spread for sure.

Sadly, I've deleted all my snap shots of my settings. All I have is a comparison shot. Not helpful for you but at least you can see the difference. Very old shot of my tank. Top picture is the double Fluval.

I had the same setup and ran them around 72% each, but I also inject CO2. Let me see if I can find my old settings.

I'm currently playing around with running my light for 11 hours and running a 1%, only blue, for another 4.5 hours. I have not noticed a difference honestly.

Bummer. Okay, so no it's not 100 when combined. There's certainly some crossover area that will be brighter than 50% so keep that in mind. Just FYI: Using Amazon pricing. 48 inch Fluval 3.0 $230.00x2=$460.00 Chihiros WRGB2 120 is $379.00 https://aquarockscolorado.com/products/chihiros-wrgb-ii-120-black?variant=39986628788390 The Chihiros is a much better light significantly. You would only need one for a standard 75 gallon. Superior contrast than Fluval and would grow any high demand plants.

Which stems? And you are low on nutrients based on the information you posted.

Did you already purchase the lights?

Nice, the exposure looks great! The tank is looking pretty darn good man.

Not sure, but it's an essential element they need to live.

100% safe for shrimp and snails. Fertilizer advertising no copper/shrimp safe is a gimmick. Shrimp and snails need copper to live.

https://tanninaquatics.com/

Still need to get potassium, phosphorus and micros in there. Just a light fertilizing until the tank starts growing

Just keep the light intensity lower than normal and plant them. Water change if it reaches 2ppm. Also, start fertilizing immediately, but at 50% dose.

Okay, maybe the rock but it depends on size and makeup. I would error on the not the source, but maybe. I wouldn't go out and buy more fertilizer, I would just dose more EG. Dose enough to reach 20ppm NO3. There's some Mg in easy green, but not enough for a 9⁰ increase. For example, you would need 39ppm Mg to raise 9⁰ GH.

What's the substrate? Any rocks in the tank?

I'd recommend breaking down the easy green numbers and track ppm totals. It really helps correlating plant growth with numbers.

I either dose daily or front load. I'm currently front loading and dosing micros 3 times a week by hand. But I dose the incoming water all at once. This is on the 75. I've used aqua soil and pool filter sand. I do prefer pool filter sand. I'm using a modified EI targets which work in my tanks. I do try to limit N as I clean the glass less when I tone down nitrates. However, when plants are humming, that is not a problem even at 30ppm N. I'm currently dosing 18ppm N, 6ppm P and 37ppm or so K. Micros, I dose .4ppm Fe as proxy. I will experiment full EI once my new tank arrives and gets established. I plan on keeping epiphytes and slow growers to see how full EI affects the tank. If you were to think about EI dosing without front loading, I would be dosing 8ppm N, 3ppm P and 18ppm K weekly.

I know this felling well. I held back. I've seen a few of his videos, I prefer getting my information elsewhere. I did build my reactor from his video. Worked well

BDBS is perfectly safe. The majority of bacteria is in your substrate. Swapping it just reduces the bacterial count in the aquarium. Just monitor for ammonia and nitrites and just be ready for a water change if you see either. Relax, it's going to be fine.

Either way is fine. The only con that comes to mind are 2 cords versus 1.

If you want high contrast lighting, I would go 2 x Chihiros WRGB II 90's.

Just keep an eye on ammonia and be ready for water changes if need be. Keep the lights lower too.