Lennie

If you need any help regarding their care and diet, let me know. Also this is a great video if you haven't seen it yet. As a long time snail keeper, I approve everything she says here with my personal experience 🙂

What I mean is, usually for fancy goldfish, they are not safe. They usually tend to have swimming problems and always potentiall may hurt themself. They may even choke on plants, or get stuck between a driftwood and die. Goldfish are knows to eat most plants. There is a reason why all popular goldfish people keep their bare bottom or with sand but without any decoration and plants. Sand is usually fine. But decorations, not really. If I were you, I would remove the plants and dip them with RR method. then, I would vac and try to get the algae as best as I can. And boil the wood to kill all the algae on it. Scrape all the glass. Basically manually remove or treat everything. Dim the light, cut back on ferts if you use any in general. Shorten your lighting period. Ideally black out the tank for a couple days. You have only a few plants for that tank size. They really don't need a lot. I keep my lights on for 6 hours and all my tanks do perfectly fine with it. 7hours, I start seeing algae. And majority of your algae issue is hair algae, and your potential clean up crew members won't eat any of those. Flagfish, rosy barbs, SAE, amano shrimp are the common options that help with it.

Hobby ones are too cute to go for the wild ones 😄 I got me Porcellio laevis oranges and dairy cows, and they are adorable!! Also, I have been doing so many researches about isopods lately. You may want to see this video regarding getting them from wild first. That made me a step back. This guy has soooo much info in his channel for isopods!

bad idea. Goldfish cannot live with a lot of fish and have very limited tank mate choices, as they tend to try eating everything. When they get bigger, likely they will try to eat otos. I would also avoid borneos. You need to try something they won't attempt to fit in their mouth and that enjoys living in cool water but lower flow. Borneos are tiny. Also you need to somehow manage algae on your own in a goldfish tank to be fair. That is actually valid for all tanks. You can never depend on a plecos algae eating. You just should see them as a fish you keep that snacks on algae but requires a dedicated diet. I LOVE snails, but I don't think they are good algae eaters in general either. Also as @Themosster mentioned, you have flat algae eaters only. Otos basically eat brown diatoms and soft green algae and that's it. You can easily clean both by yourself, considering you won't be having many plant options or decorations in a goldfish tank anyway. Just dim you light and shorten your lighting period if you can. Clean algae manually as best you can. Monitor water parameters and don't let nitrates to skyrocket. Anything not being used by plants in a tank, will be used by algae, as long as the conditions allow

dimmer light and black cover on reflective sides.

Stitch. P.S: they don't like to be on that side of their shell. It is a bit struggling for themself to correct in that position. Probably I saw it too late as it has been 6 hours :') Could be a help to correct them next time

U have many tanks I see. So do I ! Also I feel you. My 29g was getting too old so I took it down 5 months ago. How about, you try something new just like I did last week. A bioactive vampire crab paludarium! You can utilise your wood, plants, rocks everything this way too. 29g is pretty good size. You can do a pretty good job with it. Also, something new is always exciting. And vampire crabs are adorable. To the water part, I added some juvenile endlers. I used established shallow water filters that are made for turtle tanks. Angled it in a way it creates a nice surface agitation + it can turn over twater pretty well! Planning to cull some shrimp there too. Didn't add snails to not deal with extra poop. As a snail guy, I already clean enough snail poop in other tanks 🤣 To the land part (they approximately want %80 land to %20 water ratio) I added isopods and springtails. My tank is a shallow long custom made tank, so it is only 25cm high but 110cm long. Here, you should consider isopods that can handle high humidity and low ventilation. Because vampire crabs want around %80 humidity, and they can escape. So you will be using a lid to prevent that, and to keep it humid. If you have any question you can always ask here or in dms. I'm pretty new in terms of practice, but I have been searching and watching about them very much. Here are some examples online you can try for your tank size. Always use your imagination!

Hello there, If you are using API test kit, a lot of people mention that they read false 0.25. You can find numerous topics both in this forum and online regarding this issue. if you cycled the tank and using his old filter, I think it should be good to go until something unexpectedly crashed your cycle. Also you mentioned your ph as 6.4. Basically at that ph it is mostly ammonium rather than ammonia, if the test is not reading false. Basically with a 0.25 ammonium reading in a 6.4ph, you should be fine anyway I think. This video may help you to understand it: Try to observe any side effects of ammonia poisoning like gasping on the surface, red gills, etc just in case. But I don’t think there is an actual issue going on. Keep the nitrites in check for a while just to make sure the cycle is not crashed by any means

Yes! Very pretty fish. I also love alien coppers: these type of dragon/armor scales can be problematic so choose carefully if you go for it. Check eyes and behavior for any notable blindness, as they are more prone to it, a far as I know.

Well, if the flow is gentle, and you can take the risk of finding another suitable tank potentially, then my vote goes for an opaque white alicorn betta. I mean, amazing fish. In my experience with long fin males, I personally haven't observed much quality of life issues myself as long as the flow is very gently. For sure, my plakats are much better swimmers. However, I can't say the same with big ears. I would avoid big ears to be fair. Makes the fish struggle swimming for real. Here are some examples online, what would be the perfect "unicorn" for the tank. Preferably, without big ears :')

People usually like to get them young, so they help with algae eating, and owners witness the growth of their little friend. When they are big, bristlenose catflish start eating less algae around the tank, tho they still mainly consume a herbivore diet, from what I know. So people who get them as a part of an algae eating crew, would not benefit from getting adults as much. Also usually, adult fish = more expensive fish. Some people do rehome their adults, or people may choose to get adults from breeders as a breeding project maybe, but I'm not sure if stores would be willing to buy adults as they would be harder to sell. If I were you, first, I would make sure that in case you wanna return any, adults will be accepted.

Most fish wants to eat nonstop. They will want to eat nonstop when they are adults too. I feel like it is more of a survival instinct rather than being hungry. Maybe @Odd Duck may help you understand this issue better. Goldfish are prone to many diseases, and bloating is surely one of them. Even if you do everything perfect, they are likely to face swim bladder issues. Don't let them bait you with their cute faces 🙂 I feed my fish twice a day. Whenever I enter my bedroom or fishroom, they beg for food in all tanks. NO WAY they are hungry. They just wanna eat more. and more. and MORE No clue what 3 min thingy is about. I don't find these minute stuff good personally. One betta of mine can eat a world in 1 minute meanwhile another acts very shy. Every fish is different.

I don't think it is cycled. Beneficial bacteria need oxygen. Without filter and plants, I personally don't think a tank will cycle itself with a water sitting in a glass box with some fish food in it. Also how much fish food and how many times? You gotta add a small pinch for some time and expect it to decay and ammonia to appear later on. For my fishroom, I am currently cycling 8 sponge filters in a tub., I've added a small pinch of fish food everyday. I poured in filter gunk of 2 very established tank of mine (legit black water with lots of gunk) and used stability for 7 days. 8 sponges constantly running. It took 1.5weeks to stop reading ammonia even this way. And I'm now reading nitrites. Nitrite to nitrate usually take even longer than ammonia to nitrite

Sorry for your loss. Then, if I were you, I would try something new this time 🙂 Maybe something else can be considered to be added to the list? Like clown kilis? Can be fun trying to breed them if you ph is good for them, as they want it on acidic side.

Endlers are super cute. Way too cute. I just don't wanna vote it knowing babies will end up being food :') Sparkling gouramis are really interesting. I think they are way too underrated. Beautiful colors, always active, and they CROAK! Males look insane. If you think you can manage to fill the tank with driftwood, rocks, plants etc to let them establish territories, go for sparkling gouramis. Here is pic of some of mine The only fish I've never kept from this list is pea puffer. I really like puffers tho and def planning to keep some one day. But pea puffers are VERY small. Not sure if would feel full in a 10g tank, and they are basically not good at having tank mates.

Sounds very good 👍🏻

I kept my sterbais without any lids and problem for 1.5 years. Then, when they started breeding and glass surfacing as a school, I found one male dead on the floor one morning. So I would highly recommend a lid. Also as you probably know, cories take a gulp of air from surface sometimes, and they may get way too excited while doing that, being a bit too flashy. Lid is always the safer choice👍🏻

Works perfect in betta tanks for me 😄

I agree with greens. Problematic. I have green jellys, blues, black roses, bloodymaries, orange sakuras and yellow fires 😄 I still think darker is better even for black roses 😄

All plants you have in your tank are slow grower. Plants basically use nitrate while growing. Hornwort, elodea, floating plants, etc. all grow crazy and absorb nitrates like crazy at the same time! Would highly recommend keeping some floating plants and fast growers there if you wanna lower your nitrate. You can easily see how fast growing plants are introduced here to help with nitrate readings!

Why do you think he needs an extra airstone? I personally think it is a good quality of life upgrade but not a must. In my experience of 5 HOBs from different brands, and 23 sponge filters Sponge filter: +Positives: Gentle, which is loved by some specific fish. The current don't push them away or cause them to struggle swimming. good surface agitation Tend to have less biofilm on surface in my experience as it is constantly boiling usually cheaper On a power out situation, can be easily kept running with a USB air pump -Negatives: Splash splash everywhere, or at least on the lid constantly. Noisier than a HOB unless you buy a cheap HOB. Still noisy if you install airstone in it imo. Constant surface splash create residue on lid and affect floating plants. Not good at flow. Does not turn or mechanically filter tanks well in my opinion. Dead spots You can't easily install stuff or add media and stuff on it like you can easily do on a HOB basket, purigen, active carbon, filter floss, etc. HOB: +Positives: Better flow, Turns the water well around the tank. Less dead spots. Better floating plant growth. Can be used as both waterfall or levelled up. The HOB basket is all up to you. Use however you like. Active carbon, purigen, filter wool, ceramics, biomedia, sponge, ANYTHING! Prefilter sponge also does a great job for mechanical and additional biological filteration -Negatives: Usually more expensive if you want good quality ones In power out situations, can be harder to manage. Restarting can be a problem if the tank has a rim and water level is lower than HOB, or it can be hard to keep the media wet and alive. You just can't restart the filter directly with a USB air pump when the power is out. You have to buy extra media to fill the basket usually and not use replacable cartidges. Also prefilter spong is kinda a must. So it comes with some extra costs.

I had male bettas building bubble nest randomly. But never had a gourami building bubble nest "for fun". Is that also a thing? My males have the breeding dress but never build bubble nest, unless they really wanna go for the breeding I guess. Opaline gouramis are usually agressive as they are. With some breeding action involved, I bet they would get quite agressive

Nice Idk if you know it, but as far as I know, mexican oranges are endangered species and they are on the red list. So keeping them requires an extra responsibility in my personal opinion. Hope you can breed them and help them to continue their population. Would be nice to see some babies they are very cute Fish go through amazin colorations with a good care. The day I got my honey gourami: Him now:

I searched soooo many comments before about this. Sadly most people were not satisfied with the results. Ammonia readings are not something you can risk based on a couple good experience when there is so many comments that don't suggest it. I would suggest going by a test kit. I use Sera's one, it readsboth ammonia and ammonium

@beastie look at the sunfish!! @pcc you can easily see why I suggested using dark colored substrate for your future tank here. Look how the color red pops on a dark substrate. Shrimp show their color much better between dark substrate/background and plants.