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Another solar option for the nano pump


Speakeasy
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Hey all, so last time I posted a solar set up for the usb nano pump, it was for one pump. A sort of plug and play set up you didn't have to think about but is expensive, considering it was only powering one pump.

Then I saw this video:

And realized you can cut the power consumption of AqCoop usb nano pump to 3/16 of a watt. Knowing that for about $100 you can build a small solar system to power 4 of the AqCoop nano pumps. Provided you take advantage of the hack in the video. 

20200901_165044.jpg.bbb17a04aba63750c4cd5f4edfe28d51.jpg20200901_165336.jpg.da138663dc54d08148ec01e0cd70a8ad.jpg

I mathed it out and and a 20 watt panel with a 12Ah battery will power 4 usb nano pumps for most people living in the USA. I'm a project manager for a small solar installation company for people who are in need of  credentials. In the picture I used parts I happened to have laying around the shop. That being said I made a shopping list should you want to build one for yourself.

None of the following links are affiliated 

Panel and charge controller kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RZBVTGR/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=AETKFZLJFO5AR&psc=

Battery:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K53FG5Q/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Honestly thats all you need to get started running two pumps because the charge controller that comes with the solar panel has 2 usb outputs. If you want to run more than 2 pumps;

Extra usb outputs: "updated to a dual usb output"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FLZ6Q5L/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A2N5NE5XPDEZYK&psc=1

Optional battery leads:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07M5M8ZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A35S5P187G2BY3&psc=1

I say optional because you can just use the gator clips as I have, but if you want a more solid cleaner connection and you don't have the tools or parts to make your own leads, then here's an option.

I also use this tub to contain the system but you can use any tub really, this is just what I had laying around.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-7-Gal-Tough-Storage-Bin-in-Black-206152/305185634

Putting the system together is pretty straightforward once you get the parts in your hand but I can make a video for the form should anybody want me to. Key thing to remember connect your battery to the charge controller BEFORE you connect your solar panel. 

Also if you have any questions on how to size a system, let's say you want it to run 10 pumps or you want to build a system to run a liner piston pump feel free to ask.

Edited by Speakeasy
Updated USB output link
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I have to apologize, I linked the wrong extra usb output item...dont get me wrong it will work but its a single usb output heres a link for a dual output

"Original post has been updated with this link"

Not affiliated

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FLZ6Q5L/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A2N5NE5XPDEZYK&psc=1

For that matter you can always hook up 12volt "cigarette lighter" output then use whatever car adapter usb outputs you may have floating around.

Not affiliated 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07448P2GH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A4R9RZO6QOEKY&psc=1

Edited by Speakeasy
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@Speakeasy, The power system you presented looks interesting.  Thanks for sharing that.

However, the attached video does contain, IMO, some unintentional misinformation regarding electronics components theory, I.E. incorrectly reading resistor color code bands & their specific representation.  Also, power source voltage readings for loaded & unloaded motor conditions & providing source voltages out of the motors "rated" range .

Additionally, removing factory installed components, just to improve efficiency, may not be in the long-term best interest of the motor and\or power source, for many reasons.

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20200903_211714.jpg.dac579122c36c3789d1445211207c28b.jpgScreenshot_20200903-211655_Chrome.jpg.f46668672976d4ca25e82e7334819f21.jpgthe resistor is definitely a 51 ohm and is sodered in in parallel with the load...its a ballasting resistor ment to increase the overall power consumption of the device. Why would the manufacturer do such a thing? Well the current draw for the motor in these pumps are so low that "smart" batteries like anker don't even recognize them as a draw and turn off in 15 to 30 seconds. These battery packs are designed to output alot of power quickly to charge power hungery devices such as cell phones. So pump manufacturer added these resistors so smart batteries will recognize them as a legitimate device connected. Aside from that the resistor provides no functionality to the motor, its a resistive load in parallel to the actual load adding to the circuit's overall power consumption. Think of it this way, if the motor needed the resister the manufacturer would have added it internally to the motor.  Instead the manufacturer took motors it all ready had and adapted it to purpose. So long as you have a device that can recognize such a low current draw, which the charge controller can, you will be fine removing it. I will say if you do do this mod make sure these pumps are dedicated to the solar system because odds are the will no longer work with any backup battery packs you have. But in a pinch you can soder them back in. That being said if you don't wish to remove the resistors 2 pumps can be run on a 22Ah battery with 30 watt solar panel 😉 

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@Speakeasy, Thanks for posting that online calculator example.  

Yeah, a 51 ohm resistor, from what I have seen in the past, is what multiple air pumps were using, from several suppliers.  

The value of the component was clarified, only after using a digital multi-meter in the video, which was my point.

Anyway, I suppose this type of video, is a 'learn as you go' style and not necessarily a previously rehearsed outcome, etc.  Which is good as well.

Some of the air-pumps I have utilize resistors that are comprised of 5 color bands, some have 4 bands; in which a different calculator would be required.

On another note, am working on a device that uses wind power to generate low voltage electricity.  Ultimately, being converted and stored for use.

All the best.

 

 

 

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20200904_064411.jpg.54d5bee17ab987ae13f7902c56e03c04.jpg

I see , looks like Cory might could have gone with a different manufacturer for newer pumps. That being said still a 51 ohm resistor in parallel to the load.

Wind power, thats cool. Let me know how that goes. I attempted once, basically hooked a fan blade to an alternator from an ATV, I honestly thought it would be that simple. I failed at wind power but succeeded at creating a piece of modern art lol. You must succeed where I have failed. 

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@DaveSamsell I tried to DM you this but the form seems to be a bit buggy.

Hey wanted to DM you this cause I think its outside the scope of this form. 

When it comes to resistors, whethers its 4, 5 or 6 band the "coding" is universal. The first 4 bands always indicate the resistive value, 5th band indicates tolerance, and the 6th band indicates temperature coefficient. Each band after the 4th just gives you a little bit more information about the resistor at a glance, but doesn't change how you calculate the resisitive value. The 4th band is always a metallic color (gold, silver being the most common). The metallic color is specifically the 4th band in that it lets you know how to orientated the resistor in order to "read" the bands in the right order.

I'm super interested in your wind power project. When you get it up and running let me know how, please. 

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8 hours ago, Speakeasy said:

Hey wanted to DM you this cause I think its outside the scope of this form. 

When it comes to resistors, whethers its 4, 5 or 6 band the "coding" is universal. The first 4 bands always indicate the resistive value, 5th band indicates tolerance, and the 6th band indicates temperature coefficient. Each band after the 4th just gives you a little bit more information about the resistor at a glance, but doesn't change how you calculate the resisitive value. The 4th band is always a metallic color (gold, silver being the most common). The metallic color is specifically the 4th band in that it lets you know how to orientated the resistor in order to "read" the bands in the right order.

It maybe out side the scope, but it is still super useful info that I, for one, am glad to stumble across--I had forgotten this about resistor coding! It has been a number of years since I needed to know. 🙂

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  • 11 months later...

I really appreciate you bumping this with the update! I haven't been around the forum long and likely never would have stumbled across this. Read through it earlier today and it's had the little diy gnome in my head churning.. I've got some of those fancy-shmancy backup batteries with the 'smart' current cutoff. I didn't know about the resistor/power efficiency hack but I'm all about using less power when possible. Then in my endless wanderings on Amazon I stumbled across this y-splitter and realized I can double my current draw per jack and 'fool' the smart widget into leaving the port on, but getting more run time per pump out of my battery pack. 

This is all very timely as I think I have my wife bought into some sizable outdoor tubbing/aquaponics, and having it run power-independent would be quite the boon. 

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  • 1 year later...

I'm happy I found this. What a great idea. I never even thought about the necessity of the resistor... I'm going to make a box for my pond project! I've even got the perfect enclosure for this! Also from scrap laying around my shop 🤣 I work in solar, but I only do data acquisition systems work, monitoring design,  and performance testing/DAS commissioning. What scale solar do you do? Our largest projects are just under 5 MW. Most over the years, until recently, have been commercial rooftop or smaller(ish) ground mount arrays and carports. We've done a few large scale projects for various clients as well. Last big one was 175 MW.

Edited by Minanora
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