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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    ......all of the white clouds are now in QT being treated for cysts and some issues of "stuff" on the mouths. Hopefully I have the right treatment and they rebound. I hate to see this. Symptoms started about 7-8 days after arrival. I was able to change water on the tank and clean the filters a bit. Still too many worms for my liking, but progress is progress.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Very sorry for you issue. I have been there and it's tough. It's really tough to get subtle details dialed in when you're seeing an issue over time like that.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Yes and no... I have years of experience, but I am still trying to fully tackle/stop this monster. My suggestions on what to do is to "fix everything" which is a short way of saying to go through a checklist and fix a variety of potential issues. One of the big ones I had an issue with the light spread (light too close, not covering the tank fully). Light strength, first too high, then too low, now we're back up to higher %. Light duration slightly too long. Not enough circulation of CO2 when dosing CO2. Poor circulation in general due to filtration setup. Dead spots = home for BBA, regardless of light. If the flow is too high in one spot, it loves that too because water pushes the spores on that spot consistently. A tip Bentley Pascoe gave me on a stream was to set the light for normal % and limit the window to 4 hours max. Run that for a few weeks. It helped SO MUCH to contain the algae and let the plants sustain. Light is the key here, but there's a lot going on. Clean the filter, clean the tank more, get rid of waste and debris in the substrate. Make sure pumps and filters are adequate and up to the task. More is more..... More filtration is often used on high tech aquascapes for a reason. Hopefully that helps.
  4. nabokovfan87
    I love how the rock compliments the fish so well.
  5. nabokovfan87
    Note of difference between yours and mine. I'm running fine sponge. Maybe abrasion of "stuff" in the water column is causing it as the air lifts the water through the chambers?
  6. nabokovfan87
    Just a fun watch. Enjoy!
  7. nabokovfan87
    Looks great for barbs! They have places to swim through and around. Perfect setup. 🙂 Try to get yourself 3-5 pots of a foreground plant and start a carpet. It'll help and potentially be a place for some eggs to make their way to.
  8. nabokovfan87
    They are doing well so far. 😁
  9. nabokovfan87
    That's an interesting one, tough to say. A lot of people keep their tanks with no filters and very little aeration. Something like soap residue on a cup could've caused a contamination issue with the shrimp. Even with the temperature drop, I would fully expect the shrimp to be fine, if not just try to escape out of the tank. I'm not sure why you would have losses like that in that scenario. I have no doubts about this! They definitely can go cold, but it's just a situation where the recommendation is to keep them at that temp as a floor. There's two things that happen as temps drop, talking neocaridina here, they can have muscle death and necrosis and the gender of new shrimp will turn towards more females being hatched as a means to try to sustain the colony. I can point to the studies and you can review the information if you'd like. One of the more interesting ones was studies of neocaridina released in the wild and doing population studies up in Canada or Germany where they shouldn't survive due to temperatures and the impact that has on native species. There's other studies where they take the same shrimp, keep them at varying temperatures and see how well the colony grows over a period of time. https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0119468 https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Ramazan-Serezli/publication/322007591_To_what_extent_does_temperature_affect_sex_ratio_in_red_cherry_shrimp_neocaridina_davidi_The_scenario_global_warming_to_offspring_sex_ratio/links/5a3d1f23aca272d29442f957/To-what-extent-does-temperature-affect-sex-ratio-in-red-cherry-shrimp-neocaridina-davidi-The-scenario-global-warming-to-offspring-sex-ratio.pdf Here's a study on how cold they can go. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/331090439_Occurrence_of_non-native_red_cherry_shrimp_in_European_temperate_waterbodies_a_case_study_from_Hungary
  10. nabokovfan87
    Going to have to see how this one grows up to determine the gender and decide on a name. But I'm excited to have this new sharkminnow in the tank. Went right behind the grate with the suss, lots of snacks behind there, and likely waiting for the end of the day to go around and check things out. I watched right as I put the fish in as it crawled along the wood and started grazing along the hardscape. I will always enjoy these guys (sharkminnows).
  11. nabokovfan87
    Not sure how the shrimp will do with this over time. There are some brackish shrimp
  12. nabokovfan87
    ghost shrimp or rudolph shrimp (if you see color).
  13. nabokovfan87
    If you have a tank that the ambient temp isn't ridiculously cold. yes you can. Studies show that the lowest you really want to go is about 68 degrees. I run a heater in mine because ambient temp is ~55 degrees during winter. The tank gets really cold and the heater struggles to keep the tank at ~70 on some days. For most of the year I do pull heaters on all of my tanks. 60 should be fine. When shrimp get too cold they basically have muscle failure.
  14. nabokovfan87
    I'm not sure. The rhizome looks like it's there. I see some light brown spots on the left (very old) end of the anubias which is pretty typical. I do see some mix amongst whatever this fungus stuff is. Basically, if I had to guess, something caused this fungus to appear and it attacked/fed off the rhizome, which then caused it to decay or start to rot. I see BBA a lot attack specific parts of the plant, weaken it, then progress to other parts.
  15. nabokovfan87
    This vid explains how to avoid contamination.
  16. nabokovfan87
    My water is KH of ~4, GH of 2x KH (8-10). My water used to be KH of about 8-10 and GH of anywhere from 15-25 (~450+ ppm) I would encourage you to use liquid GH/KH test kits and to basically ignore TDS and only rely on your KH and GH numbers. Things like liquid farts, dechlorinator, and anything that is dissolved in the water would affect your TDS. This is likely causing major issues. Think of it as contamination and unknown things in your water that you cannot really test for. Your best bet is to have access to water from the tap or to use RODI and a standard GH+KH buffer available for shrimp keeping. I would start there in terms of your research for issues. The numbers, KH you're showing vs. the pH you're testing seems odd to me. I would love to run a test for comparison sake using a few buckets of water, airstones, and varying levels of KH. My setups are usually cooler, higher surface movement/aeration and my PH is never above say... 7.2 KH is 3-4 now, but it was maybe 8 once upon a time. This tank with the mass of driftwood, I would look into how often and how much you're changing water if the pH is consistently low.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Great work, nice choice!
  18. nabokovfan87
    1000% If you ever go down the RODI list there's a ton of shrimp or saltwater channels that have mixing station setups. Marks Shrimp Tanks has a lot of videos on how to prep water and saltwater aquariums has the "newbie reefer" series which is helpful, easy, and a bit of fun. Sidenote, it may be true that salt can throw off test results as this is a freshwater kit.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, she said she had to sacrifice a fish and send it to a fish scientist or doctor, and they did a necropsy to find the issue which is otherwise undiagnosable. But she knew it was genetic and she had been breeding those fish, so she just took care to not sell the offspring. Instead she kept them. Ah.... When I watched it I noted two things. First, her betta had some nutrient deficiencies because she was using one food over and over. This was the basis for me for my shrimp to feed multiple brands and rotate them in/out. I do this with the fish as well. The "black area" on the head was tested by the vet to be some form of external protozoan parasite causing damage. She mentions treating it with ich-x + salt with some success and some of it having no impact. She does have follow-up videos, but I haven't had the chance to sit and watch through all of the related content. This video mentions bacteria as well, similar to what Colu mentioned. It basically, similar to what Dan's Fish is going through with their in-house vet, taught me that there is so much that we don't understand as a hobbyist about diseases. It's extremely tough.
  20. nabokovfan87
    It is a benefit, but it may or may not be strong enough to have an impact. The best thing is going to be using a tumbler, colony breeding, or having a very clean setup (not a ton of muck in the tank rotting). On my corydoras eggs I get these little gnat looking things. I can't imagine they are beneficial. Some people also use neocaridina shrimp to keep them clean. Amano shrimp will seek out and eat the eggs like caviar.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Were you ever able to check this out? Especially given where things are now.
  22. nabokovfan87
    1 - Yeah, fish only you would opt for no softener or softener --> RODI setup. The softener is supposed to extend the life of the RODI unit, but I wouldn't be the right person to verify that. Basically... fish only, as long as fish fit the range of the tap (which you can test once you have access to pull just tap water and run an off-gas test) then you would be able to determine how much water you can change, how quickly, etc. Shrimp or snails in the tank, you'll want to take a much slower approach like you mentioned, absolutely. 2 - yes, I wouldn't be adding salt to any freshwater tank unless you're doing treatment. I understand the use for brackish, which is what Zenzo (Tazawa Tanks) has shown on his channel with his amano shrimp. Generally speaking, different lines of amano shrimp will have varying levels of salt tolerance and there are some studies out there on this. My tanks have no salt in them, but they handle salt during treatment at any dose up to 1 tbsp per gallon. 3 - No, using iron is fine. 4. One big water change up front is a great idea, ~90% if you can to try to really, seriously reduce those nitrate levels. Secondarily, take a water sample and dilute it by 50% and re-test to verify the number you're seeing on the liquid test. Being a 20L tank, hopefully we can get this thing sorted pretty quickly!
  23. nabokovfan87
    Sounds good @jkh772. Be sure to check out the videos and let us know if you need anything!
  24. nabokovfan87
    I am not extremely worried about it. The white clouds I did have never left the top of the tank and this is the tank with floating plants too. If they do eat some shrimp, it'll be ok because the colony is extremely well established. The baby shrimp will also have the moss wall to hide behind (and they definitely do) as well as just the dragon stone that blocks fish from getting in there. Something to keep an eye on for certain, but I feel great to have these fish in there.
  25. nabokovfan87
    I've been feeding a metric ton.... 😞 Might explain the deaths too? IDK. I ordered some white clouds for now which will live with the shrimp long term. I'll move out one of the plecos. SAE for the big tank for BBA control. We'll see if they like wriggly food.
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