Mmiller2001

I know it seems like too much, but it's not. If I was in this situation, I'd be doing 90% changes as often as I saw ammonia. I was doing 90% twice a week on my 40. Once I get closer to my deadline, I will be increasing to 90% 3 times a week.

I think it's all 3, but I don't know in what percentage. You might want to verify it. The Iron in the Easy Green is EDTA.

That works too. Just go slow, say 25% a week. Eventually, the tank will match the source water you mix.

I would mix half tap and half distilled water when you do water changes. I'd also remove the wonder shell. This will move you water parameters down and should help. This will drop the tank to 8dGH and 5.5dKH.

What is the GH and KH of your tap water?

What kind of fish are in the tank?

You can always run 0dKH. Rotalabutterfly is what I use to calculate it.

Hmm, seems too fast to move so quickly (KH). Personally, I would just dose potassium carbonate mid week. It's dirt cheap, easy to measure and adds a bit of potassium as well. It only alters KH where the other methods alter GH and KH (wonder shell/crushed coral). CellarScience - AD640LB Potassium Carbonate (lb) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074D9BXRT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_PY2JNC4KWFAMTJ7P6RH1

Oh, what substrate are you using?

Probably, I've never been able to cycle a tank in 2 weeks. Are the filters new too?

This is the worst advice the internet has to offer. When you chase numbers, you eventually learn how to control those numbers, which in return, teaches you how to set those numbers. All you might need to do is add a bit of distilled water to your source water. What's the GH and KH from your spigot?

Your pH is tied to KH. Other factors influence pH of course, but maintaining a stable KH will maintain a stable pH. Not that pH is that important first of all. If the tank is heavily planted, I would test your KH and monitor it. I would use potassium carbonate to replace it. Testing the KH of your water source would be beneficial too. This will give you a number you can work with when doing water changes. Old tank syndrome is very different.

If nitrates are low, I suspect you don't have "old tank syndrome". Nitrification slowly works down KH and is a normal process.

Hands down, Hygrophila Polysperma. Beautiful stem plant, can be planted, floated and indestructible. Just give it light and some nutrients.

Ultimately, @Beardedbillygoat1975 is right. But, you could try. It's always better to recreate your pets habitat as best you can.

Let me know, I will get a care package out to you.

There's several issues going on here. 1. The water softener can/ could cause problems. Some say it doesn't, some say it does. But ultimately, it removes Hardness and adds salt. I believe you can bypass the softener by using an outside spigot. 2. GH is a measure of magnesium and calcium in your water. I believe Wonder Shell only adds calcium but you'll have to do some research on that. I'm pretty sure though and I think it will raises KH also. 3. Although a 3dGH is on the lower side, it's not too low. However, snails and shrimp would be a bit more comfortable around 4 to 5dGH. 5dGH is where I'd go and that is fine for tetra as well. 4. Your KH is really high. I would look to drop that to 3dKH. Grab a sample of pre softener water and test GH and KH just to see where your numbers are.

Saltyshrimp is a better product but unfortunately way too expensive. The best option is to use CaSO4 and MgSO4 to build GH and potassium carbonate/ bicarbonate for KH. Baking soda can be used as well but salt might be undesirable in some situations.

If it's larger particles floating in the aquarium then you don't have enough turnover in the tank. I would add the HOB and use a bit of polyfill.

I will! Is it set up and running?

I couldn't be happier with this Rotala Macrandra mini. This is 100% my favorite plant at the moment.

You got it!

Green water is 9 times out of 10 too much light in the presence of ammonia (detectable or not). Running an ultraviolet sterilizer is the easiest cure followed by lowering the light intensity. Having a window by the tank is problematic and complicates lighting the tank. In most cases, the window is the cause of the problem.

Using mineralized RO increases survival quite a bit. Tap water has too many unknowns and usually accompanied by high TDS.

If you want to lower pH, then ignore pH and lower KH. When your test kit arrives, let me know the dGH and dKH. Lowering KH is as simple as adding distilled water to tap water. Very easy.