Mmiller2001

Yeah, unfortunately, they just want to keep things proprietary. I hate that! I use a 20 inch RO housing for my CO2 situation. Those inline pumps work really well. You just reverse the in and out directions when you set it up and place a peice of 30ppi sponge near the bottom to keep the Micro bubbles from be dispelled through the chamber.

Any time, just get it in the tank.

I went digging a bit. Can you confirm the tubing is 1 inch? If so: Shazam https://www.nilocg.com/shop/na-advanced-co2-reactor-for-aquariums/ They even have an option for rubber connections for ribbed tubing!

You certainly are not being ridiculous, I also hate Sprite water! I would say a majority of people don't do it that way, but some do. And of those who do, haven't reported anything negative. That said, these are reports from my general readings, through various forums and such, and I'm not digging for updates on there progress. Keep that in mind. You mention not wanting to do a DIY reactor, I understand that for sure. The tubing is so different from other filters! But know you could use different tubing that will work with DIY reactors. Alternatively, you could use an inline pump to connect a DIY reactor or preassembled reactor in it's own loop. It would add a second intake and output, but maybe offer you a solution. I use these pumps and they have worked well so far. SICCE Syncra Silent 1.0 Multi-Purpose Pump, designed for freshwater and saltwater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZJDN5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QHFN0G06YS3SKRJBVWGR?psc=1 May I ask what size tubing the FX has?

What he said 😆. All I can offer is my current numbers. 21ppm Ca-2.94dGH 7ppm Mg-1.62dGH Totals: 3:1 @ 4.56dGH I've tried 2:1 with 5.2dGH (roughly) to 4:1 with around 3dGH. It's hard to say which was better, but currently 3:1 @4.56dGH is working well. It also could be my lower Micro dosing or a combination of both. I feel like the 75 is doing pretty well right now. I will never be on @Seattle_Aquaristlevel. All I can do is follow my favorite aquarists and try to emulate what they do. Over time, as I transition the tank to what they do, I discover this tanks sweet spots.

If you are dead set on the DIY, get the 4 liter.

Paradise fish.

I was blown away by this person's achievement with no CO2. https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/my-low-budget-low-tech-tank.65779/ Just wow!

Np, if you have any questions on how to do calculations or anything, let me know. But here's a link. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/fertilize-planted-tank/mixing-dry-aquarium-fertilisers

That's the cheapest option, and yes the EDTA + DPTA is what I would use. You may not need the MgSO4, but if you ever move to RO water, it's what I use too.

This is the point where dry fertilizers make sense. You can definitely use Seachem, but you are paying a large some of money for something you can buy for pennies. This is what I would recommend. https://greenleafaquariums.com/products/mono-potassium-phosphate-kh2po4-1lb-bag.html I would also look at buying the EI package, in jars and start learning Estimative Index dosing. That said, the tank looks pretty good.

I'm not sure. I've only used purigen a few times. I wonder how long it would last in something like that?

This

There's a guy I follow over on another site who explained that putting purigen in a dedicated reactor improved performance. It's worth a look if interested. Page 33 about mid way down. https://www.plantedtank.net/threads/90-gallon-custom.1278317/page-33

That's the problem I'm having now and I don't want to pay a premium for tubing. Thank you! Where can you buy it? I've haven't seen the python tubing anywhere except actually buying a python. Thank you.

Sold!

It doesn't leach anything nasty?

Use the vinyl tubing sold at places like Home Depot for canister filter tubing?

Oh boy! Hopefully it's not too costly, yet! 😂

I've found that all test kits have to be calibrated and it's the only way to make sure they provide good information. But Sera and Salifert come to mind. I know the Salifert only goes to 2ppm. You'd have to look into Sera. Seachem has a line of test kits too.

Even the pros have problems? I take a sigh of releaf 😅. But I know you will get this sorted eventually!

I would handle it the same way. Either is fine. They are basically the same stuff.

Greggz certainly challenges "norms" doesn't he! He's why I went to 0dKH water. Did you see his recent post about water change temperature? Lol, that's going to unsettle quite a few people!

COODIA Internal Green Water Killer Filter Aquarium Tank U-V Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V26V5MS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_219JQMS6QVJADETVDD66?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Water will be clear in a day or so. Just check that it will fit in the tank, it's pretty tall.

I just want to add this tidbit. When you work with distilled or RO water, there's no significant amount of acids or bases to influence pH. So while it's in storage, you might see a range of pH's that seems confusing. My RO water, with 0 TDS will have a pH near 9. Why? Because of atmospheric influence (O2/CO2). When I dossed K2CO3, my pH would skyrocket. This is not a problem. Once the water is introduced into the tank, it will almost immediately respond to the acids in the tank and test to numbers you would expect to see. What's important is that GH and KH, between both tank and storage, are similar. I mix my RO to 4.5dGH and 0dKH. This water will be about 9pH. My aquariums are at 4.85pH and 5.0ph. After my water change, the water will test near the 4.85 and 5.0pH. So don't worry, in this instance, what's important is the relative TDS.