Mmiller2001

Another forum member put it together some time ago. I saved it for posting.

This could be Muscular Necrosis.

Sorry, I had a garage door disaster. Use this to target the ppm.

If your budget is okay with the 150 GPD, I would go that route. Over time, you can upgrade to be faster (more GPD) and more efficient. I think those Ebay sumps would have no problem raising water 16 feet. If I remember, mine will push straight up 25 feet. It's also oil free, and I would look for one that's also oil free

Which fertilizer do you used?

I think what you are seeing is normal. The tips, when you have good light, start to go pinkish. Stay the course but do 50% water changes twice a week and drop light duration to 6 hours. Then ramp back up when ammonia is gone. Once ammonia is gone, dose very lean then ramp up.

We need more information to diagnose any problems. Tank size, GH, KH, pH and what are you dosing and which substrate. Also, we need the basic parameters, Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates.

Then drop to 10ppm NO3 as proxy if using an all in one fertilizer.

I would consider that just below medium/medium planted (subjectively) based on plant mass. Keeping things lean works well. I can only say what I would do personally and if using EG I would dose NO3 as proxy to 12ppm weekly with 50% water changes. I would dose Iron to.25ppm no CO², and .4ppm with CO². I'd also fill the Fe gap with a good micro mix chelated for my pH.

I really like this site. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why

I would try to keep somewhere between 12ppm to 20ppm NO3 (as proxy) if using an all in one fertilizer.

Fertilizer has no negative effect on aquarium inhabitants (especially when dosed properly) and any fertilizer is effective regardless of substrates.

Alright. So, not too much to report but I do want to mention 2 additions the 75 gallon tank received. I removed the GLA reactor from the 40 gal algae tank (failed AGA tank) and put it on the main display. I have been waiting to do a review and here's my first impressions. 2 stars, maybe 4 stars! If you have a low GPH pump/filter, it's 2 stars. It didn't improve CO2 efficiency in any way and in fact, due to the plastic chosen for its construction, was louder than my DIY Cerges reactor. Now, with a pump rated at 394 GPH, things were different. Noise was slightly less and the CO2 "gap" in the chamber was noticeable lower. However, this was unable to reduce my injection rate. That said, this drove my impression to 3 stars. It was less noisy (less CO2 gas gap) and actually created a vortex inside the chamber. It has a lower profile than my Cerges reactor and I consider this a plus. So with all honesty, I'm happy with the reactor up to this point. But, here's something to think about. So far, all injection methods have resulted in near identical BPS or CO2 flow rate. Why? Why does changing my CO2 injection methods not improve efficiency? I do not understand this phenomenon. This brings me to my next addition. And I'm certainly thrilled and worried about this addition. So last week I could tell something was wrong, and sure enough; my pump needed a cleaning and so CO2 levels dropped immensely. I literally got BBA over night! I cleaned the pump, installed the GLA reactor and flow was restored. The GLA performed as mentioned above but today I received and installed the American Marine pH controller. But there's a problem, something I don't quite understand. I was only able to play with it for about 45 minutes, but my first impression is that it's freaking awesome! Here's the problem though. I cranked up the CO2 injection rate. The Chamber created a CO2 gap very quickly and pH dropped very quickly too. The controller turned off the solenoid and surprisingly, the CO2 gap dissipated within minutes. I immediately think I have a leak. I grab soap and water, drowned the CO2 connections, no bubbles. Hmm, what is going on? Can this reactor be so efficient that it removes the CO2 gap quicker than all the other methods I've tried? Apparently so, I see no leaks so far. And if CO2 is leaking, wouldn't water leak from the same source? This reactor dropped pH from 5.2 to 5.01 in just a few minutes. Wow! This bumps it to 4 stars, and only because this PinPoint is so awesome! Is this a perfect combo? We will see, I will continue looking for leaks. Now I have to decide, do I run the controller over night, or turn it off over night and only have it come on while the light is on? It seems to save my settings after being unplugged, so maybe I should keep it off. I will report back on how this portion goes. A cool feature is, you can hook and air pump to it, and if pH drops too low, it powers them pump to raise pH. Cool stuff! I will report back after some time.

Easy Green is low on P, K and Fe in my opinion. You might could use both. You would just need to calculate totals.

Both of those fertilizers don't have a significant source of NPK. You will need add that along with either of those. But only use flourish or leafzone, not both when you begin using a NPK source. I personally would use flourish over leafzone.

The ALC version?

Is the tank new?

The pH should drop regardless of KH. What is the pH (with injection) and what's the KH?

Ah, okay. I think I will try a back to front flow. Side to side seems not ideal for this tank size. Thank you.

Where does the water enter? And how would that work with a moss wall?

DIY spray bar?

Thank you, algae is completely normal when starting a new tank. And it will cycle through various types as it matures. I would drop the lights to 45% and reduce light period to 7 hours. As the tank progresses, bump the light intensity and photperiod. Stay the course otherwise.

What kind of plants?

Other is some type of cryptocorian.

Faster growing plants are ideal. Pennywort Hygrophila Polysperma Val's Pogo Octopus Just to name a few off my head. I'm sure others will suggest some.