Mmiller2001

The CSM+B is the EDTA chelate and it's a mix of Iron and other trace elements (Boron, Copper and so on). If I was only using the CSM+B, and if I wanted to raise or lower Fe, I would have to raise or lower the other traces along with Fe. By adding the DPTA Fe 11%, I'm free to increase Fe without raising the other trace elements. Also, DPTA chelate keeps the Fe available longer in the water column (at least this was how it was explained to me). This gives the plants a bit more iron later in the light period. As long as your pH is such that 100% of the Fe is available, it doesn't matter which chelate is being used. I 100% could use ferrous gluconate, but choose DTPA since I was making an order for other nutrients that day.

I'm not familiar with some of those fertilizers so I couldn't really tell you a number. But I can show you what I dose and maybe that would help? I always like to start a bit leaner if my plant load is low.

What are your other dosing amounts? I'd also shoot for 50% changes. It's only a few gallons more. What's the substrate again? Does this new water system you have alter source water chemistry?

To tell the truth Roy, recently I've noticed dosing much leaner has improved my tanks. I'm not sure why, but for some reason the plants just look better. Can't explain it. I need to try going really high on iron just to see. One day!

Wasn't EI Fe dosing revised? I thought I read it had been, but don't quote me! I will admit, I'm a Gregg Zydeck fan boy. And I've bought into "just because you can, should you?" mentality. Some time ago, I was having some problems and he made me aware of this CSMB pitfall. How to dose lower traces while having a higher Fe ppm. That's when I was advised to lower CSMB and use the DPTA Fe to increase overall Fe dosing. Does more iron have a positive impact? I honestly don't know, maybe I should experiment going that high. But I always fall back on Gregg's tank and look at his dosing. Would higher Fe make a substantial improvement over just dosing lower? Here's his tank and numbers.

Yes, correct. When I was dosing .6ppm Fe (CSMB) as proxy, the other micros were too high. So by lowering to .4 Fe as proxy, I was able to maintain the .6 (addition of the DPTA 11%) Fe with lower Boron and so on. Sorry for not being clearer.

When I drop my tanks down to his approach, many good things happen. If I need faster growth (to fill a tank in with plants) I move towards EI levels. Both approaches work very well and I use a mix of both worlds.

https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/beginners-planted-tank-101/how-much-to-dose?_pos=1&_sid=75b533e0d&_ss=r I really like his preferred dosing numbers.

Agree, hygrophila polysperma.

I miss understood. If you had that particular mix, EDTA+DPTA, use plant prod. If you have CSMB and separate DPTA, then calculate normally for CSMB then measure out DPTA separately. I have CSMB I measure to .4ppm Fe proxy, then I add .1ppm Fe DPTA 11%.

Could be. I notice positive things right after a water change too. My fish seems to celebrate the freshness.

It's a combo. So it has both chelates in it. You just calculate using Plant-Prod.

I like Green Leaf Aquiums https://greenleafaquariums.com/categories/shop/aquarium-fertilizer/fertilizer-packages.html I would get it in jars (easier to scoop) and I would buy the EDTA+DPTA micro mix if your pH is above 6.8. if it's below, the EI kit is all you need. This table is from nilocg, these aren't the best numbers, but is a starting point. It's important to get as close to true gallons as possible.

Only having sand is fine. I did just sand a while ago and had good growth. Pool filter sand is better than sandbox sand. Any time you use an aqua soil, plants will just do better, capped or not. Aqua soils do loose nutrients over time, but they have excellent CEC and will pull nutrients from the column. Aqua soils need to be replaced once they no longer hold their structure. They will kind of turn to mud after some years. The more strict planted aquarists will swap aqua soil every year or so. I like Landen Soil, not as potent, but holds up over time. They do need to come out with one!

You can do that, but this style usually has problems. Nitrate production from fish load also brings excess organics (soluble and insoluble). This can complicate things quite a bit. Definitely up water changes (by percentage) to keep nitrates down. Best scenario is to reduce fish load.

You don't want to omit Nitrates. If you are generating nitrates from stocking loads, then increase water changes so you can dose properly. That said, for micros anything will work. Flourish is fine. Some will work better than others with certain pH's do to various chelates.

If it was me, I'd remove them. But everyone's mileage is different. 😁

So, I did nothing but stayed the course and lowered dosing. Then did a huge cut and basically was able to remove most of the algae. But let's see what happens today and tomorrow, this is 2 days before it use to get really bad. If I don't see anything, I won.

I don't want to jinx it but I may have done it.

I would read this. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/fertilize-planted-tank/root-or-water-dosing?_pos=2&_sid=9fb2ae013&_ss=r Bottom line, there's no substitute for a rich aqua soil (or dirt). Root tabs can't replace this reality and more often than not, root tabs are going to leach right into your water column. You will ask yourself, "why are my Nitrates so high?" You will stop dosing your all in one fertilizer solely based off a nitrate reading. Your plants will deteriorate and you will get algae. You will most likely blame the high Nitrates as most new comers fail to recognize that stopping fertilization eliminated the required levels of Potassium, Phosphorus, and Micro nutrients available in the all in one fertilizer. If you find yourself in a high Nitrate situation after adding root tabs; just increase water changes but continue dosing proper amounts of fertilizer. I will disagree with the article when he mentions water column dosing is complicated. Estimative Index removes any complication and only takes a few minutes to calculate. For low energy tanks "Low Tech", you simple drop EI levels down to 25-33%. Easy! Sorry for the rant. 😁 Can you tell I think root tabs are the devil? Here's an older picture of my inert substrate, no root tabs and EI dosing modified to be a bit less on the dosing. GDA is controlled by lowering Nitrates a bit. I want to add this. Root tabs won't make things better, there's more to it. Honestly, increasing your water changes to 50% per week and mildly dosing your tank will offer a much bigger improvement over a root tab.

Looks good there, I float between .4 and .6. I even like .4 csmb and .2 Fe 11% DPTA.

4 or .4?

I would back it down to 2 to 4ppm a week (let that soil do some work). I'd imagine the Stratum is pulling it out of the water column and holding it for the plants to absorb through the roots. Which why you are testing 1ppm at weeks end. My aqua soil has a high affinity for PO4. See how it goes for 3 weeks. What's your micro dose weekly?

What's your substrate?

I have a terrible habit of not explaining things completely; so let me correct the above. I dose 4ppm weekly, targeting an 8ppm accumulation total for my CO2 tank. For the aqua soil, I dose 2.5 to 3ppm for an accumulation total of 5 to 6ppm. Sorry for any confusion.