Mmiller2001

Just know you may never be able to keep shrimp in that tank going forward.

I want to share this Praziquantel med that I came across. I've had problem with flukes in the past and I saw a few fish flashing in all my tanks, again. So I did my normal response, dose small tanks with General Cure and large tanks with Prazipro. I dose for 4 weeks straight and only the General Cure works. I refuse to spend General Cure prices to dose the 75 and so I found this product. Prazipro has let me down before and I won't buy it again. 25 grams costs 35 bucks and 1 gram treats 100 gallons. Not bad, and it's 1 dose each 7 days. It literally worked over night. I'm very happy with it. I will dose for 4 weeks. I noticed Prazipro would really upset my plants. Some melted and some sections straight up turned brown. So far, this Praziquantel powder is very gentle. Maybe some ingredient in prazipro was a problem. But who knows.

Between .5 and 10ppm, depends on a few things though. For low energy tanks, between .5 and 4ppm should be fine. I'd start low and work my way up.

Moderately fast.

Just a bit smaller on average.

The bottom picture? If so, that's actually Hygrophila Serpyllum. It looks very similar but grows like a vine then it grows up. Very neat plant.

I would add up the totals from Easy Green and then dose the difference. But if this helps, dosing 3.9ml (Flourish Potassium) into 10 gallons will add 5ppm K. This chart was created a while ago so hopefully it's still accurate.

Frequency isn't really important, it's home much you dose. You can take a per week total and divide that out however you want. To simplify it a bit, I'd match my potassium dose to my NO3 dose. Keeping it 1:1 should be fine.

Call them, simply ask what ppm Ca and Mg is in your water.

GH is a combination of Calcium and Magnesium. So dGH tells us a total, but doesn't tell you a ratio or breakdown. You could have 4.5dGH made up of all Ca or all Mg or any combination of both. If you are using tap water, get a water report. It will most likely tell you the Ca and Mg percent or ppm. Otherwise, you will need to test for Ca and Mg. Guessing will be problematic.

You might be able to pull the water report off their website.

Well, do you know your GH and are you using tap water? You may not need to add any if your tap water has some in it. A water report should let you know the ppm. Usually, Ca and Mg are kept in ratios. 4:1, 3:1 and 2:1 are commonly used. But I would check your water report first.

Epsom salts is fine. Just make sure it's 100% MgSO4 and no scents added.

Did a big cut back on the 40 gallon plant repository. Added all the cherry barbs from my wife's tank we broke down. Things continue to do very well. I also have not updated the 75 in a while. I've been trying to get it together for the AGA. When I gave up on the 40, I started trying the 75. This is probably the 5th redo on it and I might rearrange it again so forgive it's current condition. I few plants came in lackluster and are being nursed. So I haven't given up just yet on getting an AGA submission at least.

It will not.

Which Pogostemon is it and Leaf Zone isn't a comprehensive fertilizer. You will need to dose additional fertilizer to cover what is missing in Leaf Zone.

Keeping that Lotus so compact, is skills.

Yup, I'm no where near that .

Thank you very much, I really appreciate the kind words. The 40 is Landen Aquasoil and I run 2 Eheim Classic 350's (2215 Models). The 75 is Eco Complete (I truly hate it FYI) and I run an Eheim Pro 4 600 and an Eheim Classic 2217. If I could start from the beginning again, I would do 1x2217 on the 40 and 2x2217 on the 75. It's an absolute beast of a filter and very affordable. Both tank have Chihiros WRGB II's. Keeping clear water is directly related to high turnover in the tank, but keep flow not over powering. You want enough flow that mulm doesn't build up. Also, I keep no wood or rocks in the tank. If I have wood or really want to polish the water I use Purigen. I also run a UV sterilizer on the 75, that works just as well as Purigen, but also kills some types of algae. As far as keeping the glass clean, a good weekly scrape works wonders but keeping NO3 as low as possible seems to keep GDA away. When I see GDA, I start backing down NO3 while keep PO4 and K at normal levels. Eventually, I hit a point when the GDA basically disappears. I might have to scrape once every 3 weeks. Having Oto's and algae eating snails pretty much keep it spotless once NO3 is lower. There's a side effect of low NO3 though, your plant growth slows quite a bit. This can be good or bad. If I need to fill in a tank fast, I go high and weekly scrape. If I need to slow growth to reduce cutting, I go low and ride the easy maintenance for a while. Now that I have the 40 algae free, having a good aquasoil is pretty nice. I'm able to dose the tank lower but the plants still have access to higher levels of nutrients from the soil. This is clearly working and I would recommend aquasoils to anyone. They are tricky in the beginning and going forward, I would dark start all aquasoil tanks. Lights off for 3 months and forgo 2x3x water changes a week. That was rough and I gave up and BOOM, algae! If I would do inert substrates again, I would do pool filter sand or Peace River peebles. Tommy Wong produces the API nutrient line, following his numbers has worked wonders!

Pencil Fish.

Thank you very much. I will soon. I've been secretly converting my 75 gallon to be ready for the AGA 2022 Dutch Style, but I'm definitely struggling to get there. In hindsight, I should have been more patient with the 40 gallon as it has hit a stride I've never seen before! I'm having CO2 problems, and tomorrow, I'm going back to an inline CO2 diffuser. I'm pretty over reactors at this point. There's something to be said about a CO2 bubble resting on the plant. I also just tore down my wife's 20 gallon so maintenance day should be easier. This is a quality of life improvement and I should be able to focus on the 75 gallon a bit more now. Here is the winner of the 2019 AGA, one day I hope to have an imagination to create such a scape. Dutch style just captures my attention when it's done this well. When I see a Dutch tank, I feel like I'm walking in a garden at some UK castle. Insane! How in the heck does that not cause immediate green water?

I really like 3:1, for some reason my 75 just does better there. When I went 2:1, things kind of just seemed off. Overly slow growth as well. But this all could have been my imagination.

All I can really say is just that this style just catches my eye more than others. Maybe it's the depth that grabs my attention. Wish I was able to be better at at. Hopefully time and practice will get me there.

For sure plug and play. I would only get one if it was deeply discounted.

@gjcarewmentioned a light that Tommy Wong likes. I might try it at some point. Just can't remember which one it was.