AndEEss

Your "Hides Other Equipment" is not accurate across the board for canister filters. For example, the water from my FX6 flows into an inline heater, a UV filter and then a CO2 reactor and is distributed by lily pipes, which are the only things in my tank.

There are rimless 90L aquariums that are 90cm x 30cm x 30cm, aka ~36x12x12in. That works out to 22 gallons.

Also, yoyo loaches (and I’d imagine many other Botias) will keep Corydoras populations in check by eating their eggs.

I imagine any medium sized tetra group will suffice for your guppy culls and a small/medium loach group would do it for your snails and shrimp. I've tried to get a ghost/grass shrimp colony going in my heavily planted 75g but even my youngest (2") yoyo loach will eat the adults alive.

Correct. GBRs need temps that are too high for the rest of your fish.

Hillstream loaches are also very social creatures which should be kept with several of their own kind. Probably not ideal in a 10g tank.

I think the biggest problem you're going to have with them is water flow rates/oxygenation. As their name implies they live in streams with high flow rates. I don't know that the environment that fancy goldfish would thrive in would be appropriate for hillstream loaches and vice versa.

Ammonia test?

Why are you cycling a tank with fish in it?

Because the PAR meter would have to be at the bottom of the tank.

Build an inline heater with cable glands and an Inkbird controller.

This is why spectrum matters:

Look further down on the link you posted. Filter circulation row. The actual performance of the filter, with media. Whereas the PUMP performance, which they list at 925, is just that: the pump alone. Big difference.

Well, the stated filter circulation on an FX6 is 563gph. So, right at 4.5x turnover on a 125. If that’s still too high, he can use a manifold to recirculate some of the water without it ever going to the tank. Just need a three ball valves, some PVC pipe, hose barbs and a couple of tees. Maybe add a check valve.

Nothing. I just cut each layer to the same shape as the stock foam, but expanding in size for each subsequent layer going upwards. The tray gets bigger towards the top, and I believe my top-most layer is 1/2” longer (long dimension) and 1/4” deeper (front to back) than the tray. This allows it to be pushed into place and stay there. I have 6” of foam in one and 4” + K1 media in the other. I have a heavily planted 75g with a good number of fish; 25 corydoras, 4 yoyos, 8 Colombian tetras and 6 Otocinclus. Never had a trace of ammonia after my initial cycle.

2x Tidal 110s. Stuffed full of Poret 20ppi with a piece of window screen material over the surface skimmer.

The problem is the other fish may not tolerate that temperature. Which is why I asked him about his current parameters.

You understand that your other fish have different optimum water conditions than discus, right? The optimum temperature, pH, hardness for Discus vs angels are quite different. You may want to take the discus back to the store until you determine that your tank is capable of supporting that particular species as well as the current occupants.

What are your water parameters?

Tips: 1) Drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of the container for the sponges. 2) Buy some Poret sponge, cut to size, add another 2" or more. 3) Fit graphite window screen material into the surface skimmer. I've had two Tidal 110s running on my heavily stocked planted 75 for a while now. Pretty happy with them.

Not enough of either. Best get a bigger group of one or the other.

Every fishkeeping resource I can find suggests that 80 is too high for a Bolivian. A German? Sure.

Look like seed shrimp to me. Nothing to worry about.

Why are you spreading feedings out 3-4 days in quarantine? I’ve never heard anyone suggest that before. Seems to me that if you’re worried about potential diseases, you’d want your fish to eat well to help them overcome those illnesses.

Hello from COS! From a "what will fish like best" perspective, a 40 Breeder (36x18x16") will be better than a 55 for the fish species you have listed. More bottom surface area. The only reason I'd ever choose a 55g is if I had angles or other "tall" fish that need a lot of vertical room.