xXInkedPhoenixX

I am positive I will love it. It helps *I* don't have to do any of the work but that's beside the point. Some things are just a bit more gratifying because of the time involved in getting it there. I have no doubt in your abilities. ...also I can see where bow fronts are a pain. My flex9 has odd angles. Thankfully it's small.

No help here but at least it's pretty hair algae (green). I get the ugly brown stuffs. Constant manual removal.

Small tip: when you don't have access to one medication so you're trying to find an alternative with the same active ingredients: go to the manufacturer's website. API, Seachem, etc- it's not always apparent on the product page but they have to post a "safety sheet" per OSHA for handling/hazards etc. The ingredients are listed usually about half way in the report under "mixtures". That's what I did when I was looking up meds to treat a fish of mine this week. Sometimes the clue is in the name but if you don't know what say Nitrofurazone is, FURAn isn't going to clue you in.

I guess this is one time small tanks are a blessing. I removed duckweed once when I figured out my Betta at the time hated it. After one good clean up and a couple spot cleanings I was duckweed free.

Active ingredient is Nitrofurazone, interesting treatment I looked up the other day (humans used to use it). Also has Doxycycline (antibiotic) and Socium Chloride.

Test your water parameters and post them if you can. It might just be an injury, keep a close eye on it for any changes. You could put it in QT and treat with a bacterial med or aquarium salt to prevent bacterial infection if it's an injury, but since we still don't know what it is it's hard to say for sure. I would test the water first and go from there.

Hi @Nik_n. I'm not used to Betta's flaring because they're happy (by themselves, maybe with a mate they would). I would tend to think this is actually a sign of stress if you see them doing it a lot. 20c = 68f, that in my experience is FAR, FAR too low for a Betta. I'd say 27c=80.6 is a much better temp. What babies do you have in here that wouldn't be able to tolerate higher temps? Is the Betta flaring at them?

Hi, poor bettas, always getting sick. If you really think she has dropsy you should be treating ASAP if there is any chance at all of recovery- or just continue treating the tank since she's the only one in there. I can't tell from the pictures if she has the telltale pineconing. Are there any other signs or symptoms visible or otherwise? If you think she might be constipated have you tried feeding bits of thawed frozen peas? That is a good method for clearing up constipation issues and can be looked up in a quick search for a betta. I hope for you that's all it is but that's an awful long time not to eat and the white stringy poop is usually is a sign of a parasitic infection, Kanaplex does not treat that (but treats Dropsy). So it's a rough call. You might also try raising the temperature- I'm starting to think that Bettas definitely require the 80 degree range to be comfortable.

Mystery snails won't either- if you don't let them (remove the eggs which are very easy to spot- I just removed some today). Though I love me a Mystery Snail for their beauty and personality- Nerites can't be beat for part of the clean up crew (and no reproduction) but as @lefty o says the girls will leave you little hard white eggs to clean up after. (I leave them as they don't bother me)

These look hard to classify. Based on a little search I'm guessing either Achiris Achirus or Hypoclinemus mentalis.

The above will help for sure but I have my 20g tall filled nearly to the top. They lay eggs on my glass top. Nature finds a way. (I'm not trying to breed so they keep forcing the issue)

OOOOhhhhh didn't say you had bladder snails. Yep. That would probably be it if that's the case. And that won't be the only place they are.

I'm going to take a stab at it and say Pearl Gourami eggs.

You're welcome! Yes hopefully it wouldn't effect future tests since it's the first crack. Honestly, I'm not a BIG fish keeper- all that I have gets no more than 3 inches/7.62cm. I have a 20 gallon tank that has 24 fish in it and it's a very stable tank. In your case it's going to be about needs. That's a lot of fish for a 36. You already have a lot on your plate and I'm sure the fish are already stressed. If I were in your shoes I would concentrate on getting them back to a "healthy" tank which might take a minute. THEN or WHILE you're doing that consider their needs with research on what their ideal situations are and see what you can manage for them. I would take a guess that they will need a bigger tank or someone in the tank can find new homes? I'm hoping the big fish keepers will pipe in on that- or you can make a separate thread for it when you're ready for more answers. 🙂 Maybe you can build their new tank while you try and balance the old one.

@mtnmonster I would bet they'd keep you too busy most of the time to get a chance to go stir crazy. It IS the military.

I've used a root tab (not ACO) and though the product claimed not to effect water parameters it TOTALLY did. So I stopped using all of it. Most of what I have is easy grow, my Amazon Sword in my original tank would be taller than the tank if it had room. It takes longer but that's what I get for choosing low tech/no ferts/heaters

@Guppysnail I've tried your stick trick with craft sticks purchased at the hobby store. Then I put them in my tank and it all falls off nearly immediatly. I must be doing something wrong.

Check for sex!

Hi @Damsieee welcome to the forum. I have both and would lean towards trusting the liquid tests HOWEVER, you need to make sure you have done the nitrate tests correctly by shaking that 2nd bottle for 30 seconds and then when put in the tube shaken for another minute....if you have not done that the WHOLE TIME YOU'VE OWNED THE KIT it COULD throw off the tests for the life of the bottles. Apparently crystals form in the 2nd bottle that need to be disolved before putting liquid into the tubes.

Awww @Stef very sorry. Sadly this happens, not just with sponge filters but intakes, decorations, etc. It's not your fault, but it is sad. My Otos have done this kind of thing too. I've used fishnet stocking material stretched it over stuff and used a rubberband to secure it. You don't want to interrupt too much flow. Others might have better suggestions.

Did you test for Ammonia? It's hard to tell are the gills inflamed and only one side or both? Anyone else have redness? Could it be an injury?

@Guppysnail do you ever use the Community Repashy? I have some and put it in my tank a few times with no results really. Curious if you use it who eats it/how you feed it.

I can't speak for the shrimp but my wild caught and tank raised Otos like Super Green. Soilent is also something that's been mentioned in other posts, I have a shipment coming to try it out but extra Super Green on the way.

I echo your thought @SKAVENCLOWNLOACH I've treated Ich without heat succesfully, but as others have mentioned heat does speed up the lifecycle of Ich- so be prepared for it to take you a little longer to make sure the Ich is totally gone. Good luck!

@Hobbit oh I'm still taking suggestions cause....you never know!