Cory

I don't think a gradual increase is your problem. I think it's going down further that would be your problem. Gotta keep an eye on it so it doesn't crash the pH.

0.5ppm ammonia shouldn't be much of a hassle unless you're doing like 75% water changes. Your live plants would just consume it, or bacteria. I think the larger thing to consider is, do you want to battle the lower pH because of the fluval stratum? Over time it'll hopefully leech less, but in the short term is drops pH as you're seeing.

The purpose is to build up co2. Co2 is in your aquarium whether you inject it or not. The idea is that plants consume all the co2 and then grow less efficiently. By letting the co2 build up again for say 4 hours. You get a bit more out of it. On some borderline cases, it can be an improvement. Most of the time though, people are "optimizing" for the sake of optimizing.

I'd say the answer is, no you shouldn't be concerned.

The sticker is double sided. You just need to get the white part off, it's clear when removed.

I've only done it with organic miracle grow. It did work. a little dab will do ya, I find dirt to be way more potent than people expect.

I believe that to be correct. Assuming ph, hardness and buffer tested out fine.

This is essentially my job. An algebraic equation is too advanced for the public. Also people would do the math once and up not updating the equation. The first hurdle is to convince people that a water change every week isn't magical. Even though "it's always worked for me, it's just what I do". Then the next hurdle is to get people to test water. "I never test and my do great". Over the years working in a store, writing for blogs, doing youtube. I found that those who want to learn will, and the easier you can make it, the more will be successful in learning. My last attempt was this infographic on water changes. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/pages/water-changes

it looks like condensation, try leaving that glass flap open for a few days. Also ensure you have enough nitrates in there for them to thrive.

Have a picture? Could they be starving?

Most floating plants don't like to have water on top of their leaves. This can happen from condensation, bubbles popping in excess, too much agitation. Pics may help?

I’d say for now stop medicating. So we know what these developed in your tank? Are there other tank mates as well?

Should be visible now, wasn't set for viewing for non mods yet.

I think you're fine, probably just a genetic thing that the scale is a different color.

Hello everyone, You'll notice that there is a fish and invert swap forum now. You can buy/sell/trade/giveaway fish or inverts there. Review the rules carefully, aquarium co-op is not responsible and won't step in. You need 50 meaningful posts on the forum to see that forum. It also won't show up in the topic feed as I don't want buying/selling to become to main topic of this forum. The goal is to allow hobbyists to rehome stuff, sell off some extra fry etc. Maybe make enough to support their hobby. Competitors are not allowed, and full fledged businesses aren't either. If you have a website or retail store somewhere else where you are selling stuff, you're a business and not a hobbyist. If you sell to local stores, friends, family, etc. That is not a business. You breed/buy the fish with the intent of keeping them as pets, not buying and reselling. You can use the trader feedback once a transaction is completed. Threads where people are calling each other out, fighting etc. Will just be locked. This is very much a don't ruin this for everyone situation. This is a soft launch where only forum people will know about it. Lets not make this a regret to facilitate this.

Placement shouldn't matter much. Once val gets established it really flourishes. I find that can take up to 3 months. How many to buy really just depends on how fast you want that instant gratification.

Hopefully in the next 2 weeks I can post some pics from stores in Europe as I visit 😉

This is a math problem. Basically you have old tank syndrome. Lets say your nitrates were 100 and you make 30 nitrates a week. You change 25% of the water and you still have 75 nitrates. Next week your water is 105 nitrates. you change 25% of the water, and you'll have 77 nitrates. See how it continues to rise? This is why testing is important and adjusting as necessary. You could cut back on fertilizer, or have more live plants, or adjust feeding or change more water. Whichever plan you want to do to accomplish your desired nitrate level.

Usually not much pressure is left in the line after it's been off for a bit. But even when running, I don't worry about removing mine. I also only use Aquarium Co-Op airline tubing instead of specific co2 tubing.

Start with water parameters, what are those looking like?

I already keep them in my fish room.

There is always a chance that meds can hurt fish. People can use them improperly, the fish could already be too frail, etc. What I am saying is, Ich X would be the medication I would be using to treat Ich if the fish were in my possession.

Any med can harm fish. However I have used it for years without low risk. However I'd be using ich X to treat ich normally. I'm not sure how effective you'll find the general cure against ich cause I use it vs internal parasites normally. I find when dosed correctly, I only lose fish if they were full of parasites to begin with or very weak to start.

@Bev Cthanks for the photos. I wonder if the spray bar is causing cooling to go on via evaporative cooling? Is there a particular reason you run it like 4 inches low? Top is sealed up well so I would think a 100 watt heater would have no problem heating that up in a normal situation. If nothing is holding you back, perhaps try filling it up and seeing if it works then?

I suppose the personal link is fine here, you could resize the photos with free resizer website and post em here. something like this, or google another tool. https://www.simpleimageresizer.com/