nabokovfan87

This video dives into the issue a bit more, especially the 2nd half of the video. Essentially, 30% water change every 2 weeks is the norm and should be pretty sufficient. Water changes more often than that would cause a bit too much stress. Yeah, you're likely going to have to have a planaria trap or just wait for the meds to immobilize them.

I have a little bit more information for everyone if so interested. How long can shrimp go without food (research study is in the article) in terms of adults and shrimplets: https://aquariumbreeder.com/starvation-and-survival-the-impact-on-dwarf-shrimp/ Density and it's impact on shrimp growth (i.e. how much food is available): https://aquariumbreeder.com/how-many-shrimp-can-i-have-in-my-tank/ Impacts of overfeeding on your shrimp tank: https://aquariumbreeder.com/how-often-and-how-much-to-feed-shrimp/ Speaking of other things showing up.... This is a deep dive in how to control what eats what in your shrimp tank as well as the impact of one thing in the chain eating something lower in the chain. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10750-020-04189-y

I'll have to find the other study, but one of the main foods was copepods compared to other types of small critters. It may have been there and I just need to get the quote (and verify the info). Definitely get yourself some alder cones and leaves if you have them local. 🙂

I wanted to take a look at a few commonly available shrimp foods just to try to understand a bit better myself about what the ingredients are, what it means for my shrimp colony, and just try to opt for something that makes sense for a breeding colony setup. I don't think it is too critical to know which food is which, but I will attach the ingredients for 4 foods available. Food #1 Food #2: Food #3: Food #4: Food #5: Food #6: For the sake of clarity, I have used 3 of these foods. I plan to use the 4th, but I simply don't have it in hand yet. The goal is not to have my thoughts here on which is best, but to simply try to understand what makes sense for shrimp and their food behavior. First note we have here is that you're almost always going to have a "food blend" and a "vitamin and mineral blend". Sometimes this is listed together, but sometimes it isn't. I will also note that just about every shrimp based line of food will likely have a color enhancer, mineral, baby, and/or probiotic version of their foods. Everything above is intended for daily feeding of your shrimp colony and is marketed as a complete food with all necessary nutrients. A few things I want to see in a complete shrimp food: -Source of protein (necessary for proper development) -Source of algae (necessary for proper diet) -Source of calcium and other minerals (necessary for shell development) -Added vitamins or probiotics, especially for young shrimp (for overall health and immune system support) I was recently watching a video and it did discuss a food product for the hobby. I will try to find it and add it here, but it was an inspiration for me for this look at the food options I have for my shrimp. What was interesting to me was to see the names on the ingredients labels compared to what that actually means to us in common language. Examples: Beta-glucans: Prebiotics (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beta-glucan) Thiamine: Vitamin B1 Riboflavin: Vitamin B2 Niacin: Vitamin B3 Biotin: Vitamin B7 Folic Acid: Vitamin B9 Astaxanthin: Specifically tied to shrimp coloration development In terms of research papers for shrimp diets, I have done a little bit of research and will attach notes below. Leaf-litter preferences of the introduced freshwater shrimps Atyaephyra desmarestii and Neocaridina davidi https://brill.com/view/journals/cr/90/14/article-p1715_3.xml "Alder and Italian poplar were preferred over goat willow and pedunculate oak. This experiment allowed us to follow food preferences over a period of 24 h, and therefore long-term activity patterns. During the early night-time hours, the shrimp significantly selected alder and Italian poplar leaves." "Our observations of both shrimp species in their natural habitat and under laboratory conditions confirmed their preference for the leaf-litter originating from trees growing near the shoreline and their use of this allochthonous matter as a fundamental food source (Schoolmann et al., 2015)." "On the other hand, the shrimps of our experiments continued grazing on leaves after the consumption of biofilms, suggesting that leaf tissue can be an important food source for these organisms." Influence of the ornamental red cherry shrimp Neocaridina davidi (Bouvier, 1904) on freshwater meiofaunal assemblages https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0075951116300354

Here is one discussing the bioring use, bioball, and a mixed filtration setup. You can see nitrite/nitrate results over several weeks. https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1755-1315/441/1/012121/pdf Here is one focused on trickle/shower filtration setups https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0144860999000321 This is a study based on sponge filtration and pore size for wastewater treatment https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S246820391830058X This is one I was trying to find... really decent little study on a few filtration setups and their performance removing ammonia. If anyone wants to dive into this further specifically, it's a good one to do so for this topic and I can pull my thoughts from it if need be. https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/31044309/investigations-of-water-purification-performance-for-aquarium-ser .....and for fun, here is one that suggests using coconut husks in a jungle environment. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0959652622025227

Microsword would be a good choice in my view. It has fine detail but it tends to "do better" than other hairgrasses. Something like AR Mini might be a great background plant. I would look into something like buce as well because of their sizes. They won't overtake and "ruin" the hardscape as much as something else. You can size the plants appropriately and it would make the day-to-day a lot easier given the size of the setup.

The amanos are a bit like batman at times.... They like the shadows, they like the off hours for lighting. It is what it is. They love to clean moss and plants and they definitely will (over time) end up on the plants as opposed to running around stealing corydoras wafers! Females tend to be more grazer types while the males fly around all over. This is similar to behavior I have seen with neos as well. I have the piece of wood in my tank with a branch sticking up. The amanos are either on the moss rock grazing, underside of the wood hiding / grazing, or on the filter hiding and grazing. They like the black on the back glass as well, very similar to hillstreams because they tend to just run all around it and graze all over it. This likely could just be because I am not scraping it either. Hard to say.

Unsure. Given the time I would think it's too late. Cory mentioned some personal stuff going on last stream and potentially was covering workload as a result. It's a "shower filter". Here is the basic idea:

SJ on glass up close. for reference. (not my tank)

Agreed. It's pretty much "as much as you wish" for a lot of the how many amano questions. In my 29, I think they did pretty well when it was ~10-16 or so. It all depends on the activity you want as well. More of them, a bit more activity from the group during feeding and that might spook some pretty timid fish. A higher plant load, feel free to add more.

I saw something like this.... on the glass. Pretty sure it was a rhabdocoela and now I'm going to be concerned it's an SJ. 😞 .....and SJ is a type of rhabdocoela. 😞 😞 😞 I assume because it was on the glass it means something, but I am unsure what it means or was. https://aquanswers.com/tiny-white-worms-in-aquarium/

S.Repens is the same way for me. I like them both!

Update.... it's however many hours later and there is still a little bit of food leftover. Not an amazing sign. I have been basically feeding 4-6x my normal dose as a means to ensure I am "feeding enough", but I think I realized something pretty critical today. Most directions are written and they say something like feed 1 pellet per 5 shrimp, feed 1 granule for every 3 shrimp, etc. The only issue there is if you don't have adult shrimp, you'd want to scale that back a bit. I was feeding for 60-80 shrimp, and I probably need to feed a QTY of food moreso for ~30-40 shrimp due to how many I have that aren't fully developed yet. It's a relatively young colony, so it's just something I need to keep in mind. I didn't feed them today, but I cleaned the glass and made sure they had access to said leftover food. I will remove it if I need to, but the hope is that some of the smaller shrimp went and had some of it today while I was out. I'll give them another rest day and then try again the day after with the new food and report back.

@Galabar I think oxygenation is an important variable to test as well apart from the media type.

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea where is that tube of worms photo you love to torture me with? it definitely looks like worms to me. I would do the treatment for a minimum of 4 rounds as you're now treating active issue as opposed to preventative.

I would reference scientific studies as opposed to that specific website. I've heard issues, but just a note that there are research papers on this topic. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/49591231_Effect_of_Filter_Media_Characteristics_pH_and_Temperature_on_the_Ammonia_Removal_in_the_Wastewater

No oceanic white-tips!!! No bull sharks means you're gonna run into some issues if you don't get some salt in there!

Is there a lot of off-axis light in the setup causing issues when you went from 2 --> 3 fixtures? "light bleed" essentially, but not in the traditional sense. These lights have the shades on the front and back of the lamps, but I'm not sure if not having those shades on the left/right of the lamp is causing issues for you. Hopefully the sketch makes sense. Are you seeing "excessive algae" in those locations where the lights overlap (if they do)?

It could be 1 of 3-4 different things, including planaria. https://aquariumbreeder.com/understanding-dwarf-shrimp-diseases-and-parasites/ If you top off with RO / Distilled water you would minimize the impact of evaporation. If you do a water change with a large enough (and often enough) that also keeps the tank closer to your tap water conditions.

These are both Tidal 75's on a 75G tank.

110 will fit a 75G tank rim. The AC 70 will NOT fit without cutting the plastic on the tank (not recommended). The tidal 75 and tidal 110 will fit just fine on the 75G. 1. Looks like it will be about..... 1.5-1.75" on this dimention 2. 4" minimum on the AC 110 (preferably 5") The Aquaclear 70 will not fit on a standard 75G tank. The tidal 75 filter will fit on a standard 75G tank. The Aquaclear 110 and the Tidal 110 will fit on a 75G tank.

I care for amano shrimp about the same as I do for plecos. Make sure you feed the bottom once or twice a week, but just be sure you don't overfeed, they will just do their own thing and they will spend a lot of time grazing on surfaces. Whether it's prefilter sponge, wood, plants, or other surfaces they really tend to just do their own thing. Amano shrimp are far more outgoing than something like neo shrimp. A small amano shrimp is pretty close to the size of a near adult neo shrimp. Once they "feel at home" it's just like an oto or pleco or something where they just go about thier own business and don't really bother or get bothered by others in the tank. They will steal food on you, but it's not much of an issue. I've had mine on pretty intense GH, I did have struggles when PH got a bit too high (7.6+) and it could have been due to using buffers and things changing too fast, but there is a relation between PH getting a bit "too high" and stress on the amano shrimp. Reported range for their care is pretty much anything is sufficient all the way to including brackish conditions. I keep mine at ~7.0 PH, KH is ~80 ppm (3-4 degrees), and my GH is anywhere from 100-550 ppm (minimum I would suggest is 6 degrees, pref 8, up to about 25 or so is plenty fine).

I wish your wall builder could come help with the current "fixer upper" we're in. 😂 What a hassle sometimes. This week the pool broke. I am excited to see your progress and I look forward to seeing how your words change as you have that final tank in place. I wonder between the two of you, who will enjoy the nature surroundings more.

As mentioned it's a bit of a misnomer. I will attach a video below showing a shrimp molting. In a "normal scenario" you do not have that white opening on the midsection. That opening is a sign of "something" usually stress of some capacity. Stress comes in all forms and a lot of time it can be very minor. You'll also note, the shrimp here has the same ring but also was able to finish molting. If a shrimp was say bent at an awkward angle by a net or by filtration it might lead to that exoskeleton opening up. If the shrimp ate a hefty meal, same thing. If the shrimp molted too early during the last molt and then this next time you see a white ring it could.just be a sign that this shell isn't thick enough and the shrimp needs to get back on cycle. If GH swings, if KH drops.... You get the idea. There's a lot of "stress factors" and what that leads to could be a white ring on the body of the shrimp. Sometimes that stress is fatal. The best advice if you see the white rings is to be sure to feed a "complete" shrimp food at this time and make sure everything is ok in the tank. That should make sure the shrimp has all nutrients to molt accordingly and develop shell as it needs to. If there is any real chance of "saving" a shrimp from the white ring, that's the only and best advice I've gotten. Ultimately shrimp molting isn't a one time thing. They have to get into a cycle and that is why consistency is critical for their success. That consistency helps them to molt in time and learn their surroundings.

Well.... Adams answer is pretty spot on.