nabokovfan87

When you add the paracleanse are you adding any aquarium salt?

3m has some stuff they sell at home Depot that can pretty much bond anything to anything. There's a few but I think it's called DP100. DP100FR is the same thing but fire resistant. There may be a marine or water install version. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066435/ I can't say it's fish safe, but there is a method to bond it that should give you multiple methods of ensure attachment. 1. Rough the surface on each piece, clean and prep it appropriately. 2. Drill holes in the acrylic so that whatever bonding epoxy used can seep through those holes and stay put. Any forces will then be multidirectional to resist the tearing. It will be a lot more rigid and take a lot more strength to break and shear apart. It sort of acts like a bunch of rivets and distributes the load. 3. Make sure it has the proper cure time and ventilation. Found this: https://adhesives.specialchem.com/tech-library/article/maximizing-the-efficiency-of-adhesive-joint-designs

I have often wondered about using an acrylic blade on a glass tank as it should not scratch glass. They also have plastic razor blades and plastic putty knives and things.

Just a side note. I really liked Christmas moss a lot more than java moss! Not sure why. Just a visual thing. Moss is awesome. I miss my mossy looking moss.

Anywhere from once every 2-3 days up to about once a week if you're seeing a lot of leftover food. In terms of how much, the large wafers I break apart sometimes and put 1/4s around the tank. The mini ones are about that size and you can just toss those wherever. If you have larger bottom dwellers, you just wouldn't break them apart. So how much is the big question. The corydoras and a oleco would all be about one wafer. Maybe one and a half per feeding. If they ignore the food, just feed less or adjust time so that you're feeding as the lights go out. You can use a feeding dish too to help monitor the eating. Basically I would expect it to be eaten by the fish unless you're seeing piles of food mulm. If you're over feeding them you'll see a lot of mulm. Even with good filtration. The can feed, let the lights go out, then check in about an hour or two if they are eating using a flashlight or tank lights. Thaw the worms, add in very few and make sure they eat them. Adjust accordingly. You can cut cubes too or just feed excess to another tank. If you need to get them to sink, then just turn off the filter for 20-30 minutes or so.

Made this in the 4th or 5th grade. One of my favorite things. I also have general nature photos and a print from a movie (good will hunting boat watercolor) which is technically fish related, but not really. I like to have the tanks be the tanks and basically everything around be nature themed in some way. Landscapes, animals, plants, etc. I also have a candle tray that continues the "beach theme".

This may help.

Bond the acrylic to the plastic. Then also have the mechanical attachment holes with the bolts. If you don't bond it, then you're loading everything to the bolts. Option 2 is to just eurobrace it.

😂 Yeah I really should've been more gentle but shrimp are stubborn and don't move sometimes. I checked today and didn't see any of them crushed or anything that I could tell. The lotus pod thing has such a funky texture. Hard to explain, but it feels like a crunchy sponge. Air keeps coming out of it. I can only imagine it being a wonderful hide for a dozen baby pleco or otos.

Botanicals round 2 added to the tank. I'll have to keep an eye on things to make sure that I don't crash the tank. I can't get the lotus pod to sink, but it's pretty cool. It's just floating around like some cloud in the tank waiting to crash somewhere. When I dumped in all the cones and stuff I definitely was not gentle. I laid them up in the front of the tank with the ohko wall behind it. All of the baby shrimp can graze there and all of the female shrimp can use it as a source of food away from the stress of the dishes. I do need to get Riddick out of there. It's just not a massive tank where she has a lot of room. I don't think she'll eat any of the baby corydoras, but that's the other thought. Lastly, I kind of need to figure out why I am seeing some shrimp with backbone patterns on them. I can't tell if it's just molt patterns or if it's a trait from something that shouldn't be in there. I will need to do another cull just to make sure that I don't have issues moving forward, it's a process. Hopefully having the botanicals in there makes it easier to see certain things.... Similar to having a white net as the background.

Have you tried the spray bar kit?

OK. Yeah, that makes sense then. it is carbon infused foam (at least one layer). The only thing that sucks is you're also losing a huge source of your biological filter.

you can keep that running. all you have to worry about removing is the carbon. There's no carbon there from what I could tell. PH looks good. I don't think that's causing any annoyance for them. If you keep see them flashing, it would be ich-x + salt time. (external protozoan parasites)

Give me your one song you would like to hear during the holidays. I'll likely end up making a Spotify playlist or something if we get enough for everyone. Here's mine:

what is filtration? all I can think to do is to do a good size WC and to add air / carbon. for the sake of any help, my water is: 71-72 degrees 3-4 KH 7-25+ GH (they've been in both) Nitrates under 20 Filtration = two hob's in a 75, or a very strong hob in a 29, or a fluval 407. Check your PH/KH. let us know.

I call it the cat pond. Looks awesome! Nice work.

If you want to, take a video of them. I'd love to see how they are behaving to compare to mine!

You'll love it. Just keep an eye out for low flow sensors.

Maybe the snails are eating the dying leaves. Looks a bit better though!

Fingers crossed. Hopefully it does heal up!

Permanently, you'd want to add extra oxygenation. It would mean a reduced lifespan because the increase in temperature boosts their metabolism. I wouldn't keep them over 76 if I didn't have to. What is the temperature of the room in winter?

Barbs + Hill stream do well together. Barbs fight with themselves, not necessarily with other fish. If you have 2-3 schools in there they will just school to keep their group safe from the others. In mine, I had Tigers and Odessa. And the world's most intense and static single white cloud. They never bothered that little fish despite there being just one and it was basically snack size. No chiller required. During the summer I just pull heaters out. In winter, the heaters are set lower.

Poor guy.... 😢 I think based on what I can see in the photo, that's more of a physical damage to the eye and permanent. Has it cleared up at all with anything you've used? It looks like physical damage to the covering of the eye itself. The cornea. When I scratched mine I had taken a chunk out and had to use drops to soothe it while it regrew, but this looks like the cornea itself was crushed and is now opaque?

https://aquariumshrimpkeeping.com/how-to-get-rid-of-planaria-and-hydra-with-no-planaria/ If you have to redose then yes, I would. I apologize. I had meant to say multiple days, but my brain corrected that to multiple doses.