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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Every time I order it I get glitter. 😞 It's so hard to get a good portion, snail free, etc. There is a place that sells it attached, I've been waiting probably a year or two for them to put it back into stock.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Reminded me.... I fed shrimp food, was supposed to feed powdered today. I need to crush some up!
  3. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, I had 4 total.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Can you check GH and KH? For the next couple of feedings I would focus on feeding shrimp based food (for shrimp) with added calcium. Do you see them grazing on it at all? Based on what you're saying, it may be the result of a contaminate of some kind. Especially that many shrimp over a very short time period (talking a few hours).
  5. nabokovfan87
    My condolences @AllFishNoBrakes That's tragic and I feel for you.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Solenoids do go bad. Can you clarify what system you're using? Something may have happened to trigger the Over pressure valve on the cylinder. 😞
  7. nabokovfan87
    They are already carrying! 😂
  8. nabokovfan87
    Yeah I thought so too. I have the moss to the sides for now so I can see the eggs. Different compartment.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Yes and no. My tank has had some pretty nasty BBA/Staghorn algae. Sometimes it's just too difficult for them to eat. Will they, YES! The question is can they..... You may need to start with a blackout. Bentley suggested on his stream that doing daily water changes to remove spores should also help during the blackout period, typically 7 days. That technique of also doing water changes wasn't one I had heard before. Once you get the blackout done, then the algae should be dying off a little bit and then the amano might be able to pull it off of where it's attached. The second thing you would need to do (no matter if you have SAE or Amanos) is to go ahead and starve the tank for a little while. amano shrimp, generally, should always be grazing and if they are constantly going after pellets and other things then they are just being lazy. They have their moods, but out-stubborn the fish/invertebrates and encourage them to graze on the algae on the tank and they will. This usually takes about 5-7 days for it to be fully effective. You can do it in bursts as well. Feed them, then starve the tank, or simply cut back on feeding. If you're feeding 2-3x daily, cut it back to once a day while you fix the algae issue. My advice is to keep the nitrates low. Please feel free to post in the Fluval 3.0 thread (top section on the forums) and show us your light settings. We can tune things in there if you'd like any help!
  10. nabokovfan87
    I'm willing to bet it's temperature and light related. When you move moss you should cut it to encourage growth. If you don't see any growth then consider turning up the lights. I had a lot of success with moss, then my tank crashed and everything died off on me. I was left with anubias, nothing else changed with the exception of CO2. I was not diligent with ferts and it was a big mess of a situation. Years later, struggling with algae, moss has been the savior of the tank! Give it good light, don't shade it out, and just be sure to keep it short to keep it growing. 1/4-1/2" lengths work well.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Well. Tragic news. It seems the female that was having the acclimation, molting, and white flesh showing has passed away. I saw her in the substrate, feet up, like this and it's never an easy sight. When I see an amano like this, it's almost certain that the shrimp has passed. She was in the tank for a while and all the stress of shipping, tank movement, I am certain all those factors played a role here. I am going to be ensuring feeding a lot of calcium this week and next as a result. I do have a good amount of shrimplets around the tank. I went to net her out and she moved as if her final attempt to finish molting. I don't think she will make it and so I sat and watched her for a little bit. I moved her to the moss so she could have a place to grab onto something if need be. (She fell underneath a piece of wood and it was really difficult to see her) After 5-10 minutes then one of the other shrimp that was newly molted tried to take over. I pulled her to a breeder box, no movement, nothing, and so I think that was just too much stress for her. I pulled the eggs and hope that they are far enough along. I do have a tumbler, I am unsure which setup is best.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Man.... who was it that had the really nice setup. Yes you should cover it. I have seen people use weatherproof boxes for electrical, it's a thing. You also can put everything into a tub and then do it that way. This is very similar. You do need some sort of air for the pump to work, just keep that in mind. Waterproof though, humidity, that's what you're trying to protect from as well.
  13. nabokovfan87
    I would basically just do this if possible. Wood on top of the wire shelf that extends to the top of the rail. 18" deep for long end and then there is a 24" deep version for short end setups. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gladiator-4-Tier-Welded-Steel-Garage-Storage-Shelving-Unit-60-in-W-x-72-in-H-x-18-in-D-GARS604TEG/206688384
  14. nabokovfan87
    Last time I did the breeder box. Much easier to ensure the fry are ok. I also did methylene blue and still lost some eggs. There is a method recommended of using Neo shrimp with fish eggs to keep the fungus off. That's worth a try as well.
  15. nabokovfan87
    In general, "it doesn't matter". Meaning, there isn't a specific number to reach for. There is a process I can outline that should work, generally speaking for a lot of corydoras. I will start by saying, please go ahead and watch this. It's a great tutorial on how to spawn corydoras and what that process looks like long term. It took me a long time to get one species to spawn, the other was very easy, each one is a little unique. Step 0: Make sure the setup is right for the fish Step 0.1: Feed the right foods, be consistent, have a good diet with daily *morning* feedings. This is part of the process of conditioning them to get eggs in development. Step 1: When you're ready to spawn them: feed them every other day, at night, just after the lights go out. (Having a bit of ambient light in the room is helpful and encourages them to still be active) My go to food for this is repashy. Step 2: Following a few nights, 3-4, of the above feedings, then proceed with a good water change. This can be 50%, it can be 80%. You can also add an airstone following that big water change. Step 2A: If this doesn't produce a spawn then you want to follow the alternate method. This would include not doing a water change and letting the parameters in the tank "build up". Let the tank do it's thing and have some good evaporation on the tank. Once you have that, following the big feedings, then proceed with that big water change and shift in GH/KH. This will encourage some species as well. Step 3: If you have one group of corydoras that spawned, you can take a portion of water from that tank and add it to another tank, sharing the hormones in the water to encourage breeding.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I do 40-50% water changes on my shrimp tank. I haven't had any major issues. If that isn't the norm, yes it can cause stress. Especially if you add the water back and it's intense in terms of pushing them around the tank. That can break their backs. Whatever the "norm" is for your tank is what I recommend you to follow to reduce stress. Feed them shrimp foods with calcium to help them perk up and recover any damage. It's not a major deal if you change water, the issue as mentioned above is what was the temp, what was different, how was it added, and what is the norm that the tank is used to? Shrimp actually come from rivers/streams and they enjoy oxygenated/fresh water. That's just something to keep in mind. I push a lot of air in my tank and I do push a lot of water during maintenance. I use buckets and pour it in. I use a styrofoam sheet to diffuse flow. The norm is 30%, dripped back in.
  17. nabokovfan87
    It's just how I learned how to handle moss from early on to get it to do its thing. Application is a big difference in how it's prepped, but I've had decent success when I do make sure to chop it up / propagate it out. Now.... If only I could get some Sußwassertang and get it to grow. One of the things I want to do is learn to make it look more natural. ^^
  18. nabokovfan87
    The only problem with thread (as opposed to the mesh) is the need to cut the moss to encourage it to grow out. I cut it down to 1/4" bits and then attach that. In person I'm barely using any glue, but the contrast on the wood makes it look like a lot. They have this tape you wrap the wood in, then you tie it and the moss attaches to the tape. It's soooooooooooooo much easier to trim when the moss attaches to the hardscape (usually dry start method). I had it happen in the older iteration of the 75G and it was so nice! I've been trying to get this stuff to wrap and do the same thing, but it's feisty.
  19. nabokovfan87
    This is pecktec's which does have a sheet of glass. Looks just fine.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Synca Nano (110 GPH Adjustable): https://us.sicce.com/en/products/multifunction-pumps/syncra-nano.html Found it 🙂 Not sure which one you have, so there's both. The bacteria in the water it's like it's trying to take hold, but cannot find a place to do so. I have heard from someone with knowledge on the subject that it isn't actually biological bacteria for the nitrogen cycle but some other type. I can't recall who, but wish I could remember. It's an interesting topic and something there's hopefully some research being done to clarify cause and solution. (apart from reducing stocking and adding more media) When you use the clarity type of liquids they tend to only work best when you have fine mechanical filtration, either the foam or pad.
  21. nabokovfan87
    you should be able to feed them just about anything. Wafers or repashy being optimal.
  22. nabokovfan87
    This piece of rock oriented pointing up a little bit.... That is the view that catches my eye the most. I would start there. The flow / texture on that rock is really special.
  23. nabokovfan87
    I did the normal maintenance on the tank with addition to trimming moss last night. I always struggle to get the moss on the wood well enough, yes, it's ugly, I know.... but I also struggle to trim it well enough when I need to. My hope is that I can get a bit more practice trimming the moss and encouraging it to grow. I need to find some moss tape/thread whenever I get the ability to get those things. Needless to say, I have some moss to reattach and it's about enough to do a pretty good size project with it. These photos are after I had gone back and filled in some dead spots. I need to fill in a bit more, but for now it was about finishing the trim and getting the plants wet again. I did not trim the large rock yesterday, you can see the pretty awesome growth there in the middle left of center. It's a big frond of the moss that is just going nuts. Great to see. This is the "trim". Again, I need to get some practice using the tools I have and gaining a bit of technique to better care for the plants. Part of the goal is to get plants in the tank and growing, but to also gain a bit more knowledge with them, especially maintenance and care techniques. For those reading along, I can easily take a day and scrape off the glue. For not it's not practical to do this, but if I ever need to "save" this piece of wood, it would not be ruined by the use and application of the glue. I have a big stump I just removed all of the glue off. It may find it's way into this tank shortly. For now, it's simply a piece of wood again with all the plants and glue removed.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I have a 10G, it was having basically the same issue due to a nitrite spike. Bacteria was in there, but not enough ceramics to do any good. Not enough plants to grow and use up those nutrients. Kind of silly when your nitrates are below 10 and your nitrites are the thing that bothers ya! Anyways, that tank in question I changed out the rock from pleco caves stacked up to provide cover to adding 3 medium size lava rocks. Tank is doing just fine now. I'll have to dig bag and find out what the mods were if you posted them. Irene has a video where she took out the built in filtration. If you don't mind the black pattern on the outside of the glass it might be worth doing to make things easier for you in some sense. That's entirely up to you, but I'll mention it in case you hadn't seen the video. In terms of pump/flow, I don't recall the GPH on that tank, but sicce has the smallest pump and it's pretty good at doing the job you're needing. It's adjustable, which is nice, but it is also small, which is key. Sicce Syncra Nano (as well as that line of pumps) might be worth looking into if the one you have is very low GPH.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Yeah.... seems to be. I've narrowed it down to either 22K or 80K species. I am unsure which. 🙂 I added riddick to the tank (the half-blind black corydoras that has some eye shine on her). She will be there long term as the guardian of the shrimp. Last night I checked in and she was digging in the substrate. This afternoon she was all over the walls of the tank and the shrimp were on the substrate. I trimmed some moss in the big tank, so I can finally flesh out the piece of wood in the shrimp tank. After the day it's been, would be nice to have some coffee and watch the shrimp do their thing, but it seems It's moss attachment time. If I had the mesh to do it, I'd be putting a moss wall up right now.
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