Cinnebuns

Now I'm considering getting new substrate and just throwing this out. It'll be full of dead ramshorn snails anyway which is kinda gross. I'm also considering just getting a new filter and media and cycling the tank by adding the cories back slowly. I sold about 75% of them the past 2 weeks so I figure now is a good time for something like this rather than later when more have hatched. I think new media and filter could handle some juveniles added slowly. I have intentionally kept ramshorn snails for several years. I used to selective breed them and was exploring their genetics and have a thread about it. I fully enjoy ramshorn snails in the proper tank. It's a cory growout tank so I can't have pest snails in it because I cannot feed growing fish and manage a population both. I've explored many options for snail removal. I've had a lot of success with many methods in the past but this time nothing is working. I have tried manual removal and adding no planaria, both of which has worked for me in the past, but neither of which has been effective. That's why I'm choosing this method. I wanted to swap the tank for a 20 anyway. I don't really want to Introduce another fish to the tank as it's not intended as anything more than a growout tank.

@Guppysnail

How would you solve this? Goals: 1. Change a 15 long to a 20 high 2. Kill ramshorn snails Inhabitants that need to survive: 1. About 10-15 panda cory juveniles 2. Small amount of shrimp culls Items in tank with possible eggs: 1. 2 hang on back filters 2. Plants 3. Heater 4. Substrate Have available: 1. 5 other tanks currently running with various stocking. I prefer not to move the cories to any running tank. 2. 10, 5 and 2.5 gallon tanks empty 3. Some sponge filters not cycled 4. Various other aquarium supplies. Possible idea: 1. Reverse respiration the plants, heater and filters. Put filter media in a bucket with ammonia. Let the substrate sit dry for several weeks and leave the 20 high barebottom for a bit. One plant is going to need substrate so I could put it in another tank temporarily. What would you do?

Taking the spawning mops out is a great idea. The only reason I hesitate is the last time I did that it crashed the cycle. I usually leave them in there 24/7 for over a year now. It might not be a bad idea to take one of the 2 out and let the cycle adjust to them not being in there though and just put them in occasionally from now on.

When it warms up a little I plan to make a post and ship.

Paleatus cories are a temperate fish so 82 is too high. They are commonly used in colder tanks.

About a month or so ago I collected and hatched over 100 panda cories. The most I've ever had at a time is 30 so it's been a lot. The increase of fry plus other factors crashed my growout tank and so my fry tank has had to hold juveniles longer than it usually does. While dealing with all of that, the adults have been constantly spawning. For 2 weeks they decided to spawn every single day even!! I started ignoring the spawning mops and letting the eggs mostly be eaten but now I have about a dozen fry showing up in the main tank. Just tonight I checked the mops and found TONS more eggs. Someone please stop putting viagra in the tank lol So, I think I know why they are so "excited" moreso than ever before. It's known that the presence of young can trigger a species to spawn. I think it's also causing them to not stop. It started with me adding 2 juveniles to the tank that I wanted to keep. I believe me ignoring the mops and assuming the eggs would be eaten made it worse. It caused younger and greater numbers of fry to be introduced. I even noticed that as those fry grew older, the spawning has slowed down.

My understanding is this is the top end temp for them. They do prefer lower temps but can tolerate this. It's not ideal to top out a temp for a species but I believe it could work. I wouldn't think you'll run into issues.

Ramshorns come in an insane variety of colors. It's seemingly endless for real. I've done some diving into exploring their genetics and used to selective breed them for about a year and I still find new colors and varieties.

The answer is both yes and no and mostly it depends. Each snail is different. Sometimes they do leave because there is something they don't like in the tank. Sometimes they just want to explore. I would first investigate any reason they may want to leave. I've had dozens of nerites of over 20 different species and here's some reasons I've found they leave: 1. Water quality - this is kind of a no brainer. It's the first thing to check for any aquatic creature and it seems you've already explored this. 2. Lack of food - nerites are hard to feed. They typically will not accept commercial foods but rely on natural sources. Make sure the tank has plenty of natural algae. If you are concerned you can add some cholla wood. They love it. 3. Fear - one time I added a yoyo loach to a tank and noticed the nerite snails started leaving the tank. I should have moved the snails before adding the loach anyway but it was interesting to me to see them leave. I have also once had a snail who didn't like a betta. The betta never bothered it and the other snails were fine with the betta but just 1 snail wasn't comfortable so I put it in a different tank. 4. GH or PH - make sure PH is above 7.0 and GH is 6 or higher.

This is a big reason I got rid of mine. They are a boring fish to me. I like fish that are active and they are some of the laziest fish I've ever kept.

Def a nerite. I would need more pics to confirm but from that angle it looks kinda like a red lip.

Looks like a koi male to me.

This is a 6 gallon half-moon tank with just a betta and snails. Nothing else can really go in here unless i threw in some cull neocaridina shrimp or 1 oto temporarily but I prefer to handle what's causing the algae instead.

Then maybe it's time to clean it up...

Yes they will survive. I have actually had better luck raising mystery snabies in a seasoned tank than in a breeder box. They tend to have more access to food this way. There typically is biofilm, algae and micro organisms all over a tank. If you are at all concerned, you can add flake food, fry food or bacter ae to help but they shouldn't need much at all. Btw, the ones in the pics are magenta. I see one of the parents are magenta as well so not surprising I guess.

When I had a guppy colony I loved keeping a female betta with them for fry control. A betta can be a risk but a female is less of a risk. Gourami are also an excellent option and much less of a risk to the adults. Neither will obliterate the population but will just keep it in check. I still had tons of guppies. I also kept cories on the bottom. That was one of my favorite tanks and I'm considering recreating that soon.

I have kept reticulated in with panda cories for years. No issues.

Is this the red spot you are talking about? There's a few things to address here. First that tank isn't suitable for a guppy. It's very small and it also does not have any filter or heater. Guppies are tropical fish and thrive on a tank around 76-78F. They are also highly active fish and requires space. This is especially true if you have females who will be giving birth. I would suggest you try a 10 gallon tank. This is a very good starter size. Another issue is that the tank was not cycled. Getting a larger tank will actually make this part easier for you. It is much easier to keep a larger tank stable than a smaller one. I suggest you read up on the nitrogen cycle. A brand new tank does not have the beneficial bacteria needed to keep the water healthy. Without that bacteria, the water will build up with toxins and kill the fish. I suggest reading many articles and watching many videos on the process. Here is an article I suggest. The first half will explain the nitrogen cycle. The 2nd half is a step by step process for cycling a tank with fish in it: https://fishlab.com/fish-in-cycle/

Female. Rounded. In this pic the first is female and the 2nd male.

It is common to lose a lot of your first group when starting a colony. That's maybe what this is. Basically you just hope enough survive and have babies. Then the babies are born in your water and will thrive.

It greatly depends on the shrimp and the gh level. If your gh is too low then its fine but OP's GH isn't that low. It also depends on what gh the shrimp were raised in. So it's all situational.

Too much calcium in the water is an issue for shrimp. They can't molt with too much. Wonder shells are great for snails but not for shrimp unless you need a huge bump in calcium. OP's GH is fine for shrimp and shouldn't need more calcium.

I'll be honest, I only quick glanced this post and didn't fully read it yet. I've bred these. They lay eggs in my sinking mops that are intended for my panda cories.

Albino cories are not hybrid. It's completely different.