Cinnebuns

Not scientific papers if you mean that. Just experience of myself and dozens of people I have talked to. I have been breeding cories for years and have researched the topic and talked to dozens of breeders and experts in the field. I'm not judging you or telling you what to do. All I can do is give you the facts and let you decide for yourself. If you ask almost anyone who breeds cories on a serious level they will tell you not to create hybrids. It's a topic that's been discussed in many other threads on this very forum.

I'm not an expert on crayfish so take this for what it is. I think a lot of the people commenting here don't realize that a lot of the rules for crayfish in general are not the same for CPO. They aren't typical crayfish. My thoughts is that it died of other causes. You might be someone that could answer some questions I had about CPO. I'm going to dm you though so I don't hijack the post. That video is about crayfish in general. CPO are not normal crayfish. The typical answers that work for every crayfish doesn't always fit with CPO. Heck a common tank mate for CPO is shrimp. Ain't no way that shrimp is surviving with other crayfish. CPO are tiny.

Sounds like a case where the guys working at the LFS have no clue what they are talking about. Both of them. That gh, kh and ph should be fine for neocaridina. Now, I say should. What it honestly comes down to is what they were raised in. If they were raised in much lower gh then they will have molt issues. This is why it's far better to get neocaridina from a breeder in your area than a store or a site. Not only is their water going to be more similar to yours but you can ask them exactly what the shrimp are raised in. And I also advise not listening to that LFS anymore. They just wanted to make a sale and not actually help you.

This is how sewellia are sexed but it does not work on gastromyzon. From what I've gathered there may not be a super reliable way to sex that genus. At least based on what I know. I do know this method does not work for them however. I got that info from someone who does breed gastromyzon species. It may be a similar case to breeding some snail species which cannot be sexed like rabbit snails where you just have to get a good amount of them to ensure enough of both sex.

Each genus has different results when it comes to hybrids in terms of health and ability to reproduce. Because of this, each genus has different ethics in terms of creating hybrids. Cories are not encouraged to create hybrids. It's not the same as cichlids. You may get a couple of healthy ones but in general they are not healthy and not advised. Doing it on accident is fine but it is not something we should encourage to experiment with. It's not something new. It's been done before and we already know it tends to produce unhealthy offspring. A lot of cories in the hobby are lineage 9 https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/genus.php?genus_id=51

I've had people I've helped try to raise an entire clutch in a 2 gallon. So yeah, when I warn about the exponential growth of a clutch that's what it means. Of course you aren't going to notice that with 20 in a 75 but that's because you did it responsibly. Not everyone does.

There have been cases where people have had a clutch fully submerged and still hatch. It's not common but it can happen. If someone doesn't want a clutch to hatch its best to play it safe and make sure it's dead by freezing it. There's no downside to doing that. 20 in a 75 isn't much at all. You wouldn't have problems with 20 ADULTS in a 75 let alone babies. Im talking about 80-100 in a 10 to 20 gallon. 20 - 50 is a small clutch. A medium to large clutch being raised in a smaller tank like 10 to 20 gallons you absolutely will notice a exponential spike in the bioload. I have seen numerous people attempt to breed a large clutch in a 10 gallon or even smaller and run into issues so I like to warn people.

Welcome to the forums! I have intentionally bred mystery snails several times. I will warn you that their bioload ramps up pretty hard as they grow. Mystery snails in general have a high bioload and as the entire group if them grows together the bioload in the tank will grow exponentially. What size tank is it? I usually encourage people to raise a clutch of snails in a 20 gallon or larger for the clutch of snails alone, with nothing else in it. It may be a good idea to remove some babies as you find them and move them to another tank. If it was a small clutch it is possible to raise them in a 10 gallon but if you do, be prepared to do daily water changes once they get larger. This will discourage them from laying eggs but it cannot fully prevent it. Mystery snails can be pretty creative on where they lay their eggs. People have not only found clutches at the sides of filters but on household items like curtains and such. I personally would leave the water level down and just freeze and discard any clutches. Submerging USUALLY will drown them but it doesn't always. Sometimes a few will still hatch.

Repeating that the pics did not load. Hybrids are usually unhealthy and thus its not encouraged to intentionally create them. Both sterbai and pandas are in lineage 9 and therefore are able to cross. I would encourage you to seperate them.

Yes the egg shells will suffice for calcium. I blanch the kale. Make sure there is protein in the snello too or he's not getting any protein.

The white is mostly new growth. Often there is a color change with new growth from their previous home to yours due to parameter changes. These parameters are kind of low. They aren't horribly low and you might be able to make it work but if it were me I would add some crushed coral to try to raise them a little. Ideally you want 7.4 PH and 8+ GH. Any PH below 7.0 is acidic and will eat at the snail shell. 7.0 is possible to be fine and I don't see any erosion but if it were my snail I would raise it to be safe. The reason for wanting GH is for calcium in the water. Another thing to address is food. They need calcium in their diet in addition to in the water. Algae contains no calcium. Snello typically does contain a good amount of calcium depending on the recipe. Spinach however is an issue. Its an interesting issue actually. Spinach actually does contain calcium but it also contains oxalic acid. This actually blocks the absorption of calcium thus not only making the calcium in spinach worthless but any other calcium they eat while it's in their body. I have fed kale in the past instead. They also love no-salt added canned green beans. They also need protein. Don't forget that! A good option that contains a good amount of protein and calcium both is crab cuisine by Hikari. Overall I don't think there's much to worry about here. He/she looks great. These steps will help keep that shell looking great! You seem to be doing an amazing job!

Here's a couple of videos of the tank with 100 juvenile panda cories. This one i moved some stuff around to show how many it looks like when they are zooming.

heres one of me moving stuff around to show them zipping all over.

This thread is what made me first get panda cories. Now I have over 100 juveniles growing out and a couple dozen in my main tank. Are you proud of yourself @Beardedbillygoat1975 In all reality, I love these guys. I've only had 3 different species of cories but these are my favorite and first love! They started me on my breeding journey too! Maybe tomorrow I'll try to get some pics and video of the tank holding the 100 juveniles lol. It's shocking how many can fit in a tank when they are small. I know that won't last forever and I'll be looking to rehome them soon. Just a few weeks ago I got some paleatus cories. I'm hoping to grow out the 2 species side by side while those of sexual maturity age are seperated. I've been enjoying watching them so far and giving them time to adjust before I pressure them into breeding.

There's so many factors that can play into why it died. To narrow it down I have some questions: 1. How long has the tank been set up? 2. What are your parameters? If you don't know what this means that's ok. Just tell me and I can fill you in. 3. What size tank? 4. What other fish are in the tank? 5. How many male guppies? Females? 6. How long have you had the guppy? 7. Can you share a pic of the tank?

They definitely can breed on their own. When I used to selective breed them I would often use this if I found a particularly interesting one. I would isolate it to make some clones. Now, that said, they don't prefer this method of reproduction and they are pretty bad at it compared to other species so they do prefer sexual reproduction. I have a friend who had a single ramshorn snail for many months and it suddenly decided to have babies one day. It's entirely possible yours may never reproduce but it is capable of it. They have a mind if their own sometimes.

Hair thorn and king koopa nerites are the 2 that primarily stay tunneling. All others have varying degrees of tunneling.

Some nerite species do this more than others but they all do it from time to time. Some do it so much they are rarely above the substrate.

Yes you are correct. The gravid spot is what I look for the most at that stage. You can see the gonopodium starting to develop. Another clue is that his tail is more solid than translucent. The lack of a gravid spot is the best indicator though.

If you are buying from petco then they are highly likely to be mutts so whatever interests you is best. That's always best anyway because it will be more fun for you.

Water conditions are still a factor in any disease.

They're getting bigger! I'm gonna give them 2-4 more weeks at least before I start to sell them. I have so much fun watching them grow up!!

I have had some success with fry without pulling eggs. It's obviously a much lower amount but it's absolutely possible. I once made a thread about this even. It's been awhile since I even read what I wrote there so it's possible I've learned more since lol. In addition to the about 100 juveniles I have from pulling eggs, I currently have about 8 or so in the main tank that I never found their eggs. They hatched and survived on their own.

No I haven't noticed anything off with any other fish. Just the long poop from the gourami is all other than issues with this girl.

I have a female pseudomugil luminatus who had to be euthanized today. Before I even saw her declining I was slightly worried about parasites in this tank. About a week ago I got 2 thick-lipped gourami from a store I have gotten fish with parasites before. I'm dumb and didn't quarantine. One of the gourami has been having very long poops. I have been feeding daphnia the past 2 days to see if it's just constipation but after seeing this fish I was again worried about parasites. Her swimming is what first alerted me but her belly seems sunken as well. At first I was wondering if she was swimming upside down since she's more round at the top than the bottom. Her gills are red but then again that's a trait of the species as well so that's hard to say. 29 gallon: Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 10 thick-lipped gourami, honey gourami, p. Luminatus, p. Gerturdae, panda cories, green neon tetras, amano shrimp, planted. It's also possible this is just old age for the luminatus. I got her about a year ago from someone. I don't know how long that person had her for. @Colu