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MattyIce

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  1. So all the emersed stem plants that I tried to submerse died. sold off about 100 Val and pot Gayi cheap to the local club started a third tub using dirt substrate and a crushed coral eco complete substrate mix. Taking a bunch of the Val, I trimmed it down to individual plants or plants with a small runner and divided them between the old tub and this new one It has been about 3 months since that happened, don’t like the crushed coral eco complete, I still get algae and the algae clings really well so I end up pulling the substrate out when removing the algae, the pea pebbles are heavier and rounder and the algae does not cling as well: All three tubs have white clouds and cherry shrimp. the middle tub also had 3 Florida flag fish and the bottom has an oranda gold fish after replanting the val it has not grown back as well in the first Val tub and unfortunately the emersed stem plants never took off: but the dwarf sag is doing pretty well and the pearl weed is doing great, I also also have some nice red bacopa Carolina and there are still a few Taiwan Lily’s alive but that is about it in this tub: the gayi tank is doing great, after harvesting it’s taken right back off, and the jungle Val is also slowly taking over: The pearl weed I had gotten and was almost entirely melted, has bounced back very nicely: but the Nuri crypts arnt making any real improvement:
  2. So I've looked into this and I just looked into this again and I think I understand it some more now. There are 2 types of weathering Physical and Chemical, Physical is people walking on a path, waves crashing and rocks rubbing against each other. Chemical is organic acids from plants breaking down rocks and forming mineral clays and stuff like that. Mineral clays like kaolinite have a CEC of about 10 meq/100 g, while illite and smectite have CECs ranging from 25 to 100 meq/100 g. From what I understand it seems Eco complete is Inert in a closed system, but when going through chemical weathering organic acids break down the silica allowing minerals like iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, ect to be released while also creating the high CEC mineral clays listed above. So you are both right. it is an inert low cec substrate that, due to chemical weathering, breaks down over time, slowly releasing basic minerals and generating high CEC Mineral Clays. Though I may be wrong so please double check. https://www.tulane.edu/~sanelson/eens211/weathering&clayminerals.htm
  3. Started on this yesterday, finished up today, but I Found space for a 150 gallon pond in my fish room using a sticks and stones support kinda perpendicular to my 100 gallon pond:
  4. Friend hooked me up with some 175 gallon totes. Today I got 2 of them ready for summer tubbing. I put 3 bags of pea pebbles in each, built a connected pvc over flow, and added sponge filters. Then I took some 27 gallon totes, drilled 1 1/2 inch holes in the corners so I could thread bamboo through them for support, and drilled 100+ Small holes in them using a drill bit so I can use them as pond baskets:
  5. I had it bad with Jack Dempseys, tried Prozi, salt and epsom salt for a week, it got worse so I switched to feeding metroplex with focus and garlic guard, along with the salts for a week and worse still. I got some levamisole and the worms stopped moving soon after dosing, after about 4 hours they started falling out of the fish. I have never tried Nematol, the active ingredient seems to be something for those types of worms so I would think it would work, I would try it.
  6. I have a 300 gallon Rubbermaid that I had emptied last year but I left it out over winter where it had filled with rain water, leaves, ect Today I found out that it is packed full of daphnia, and my fish love it:
  7. consolidated a 3 ft rack of tanks and a 40 breeder into a 4 ft rack
  8. Thank you, the strips are most accurate after a min so I can’t really wait for them to dry and not needing to have it flat saves a lot of space. Been using it daily for certain tanks, 6-7 strips a day, and have not had any issues with drips messing up readings, instead of putting it directly on after dipping I’ve been waiting 5-10 seconds, seems to work well.
  9. With 15+ tanks, when taking a bunch of samples, I tend to loose track of which one came from which tank, so I came up with an idea today. Using some multi wall lexan I had left over from making lids, white plastic cover still on it so the colors stand out better, I used a sharpie to write out my tanks, and hung it up. The freshly dipped strips stick nicely: The only negative I’ve found so far is if they are too wet they can drip onto other strips and change their readings. a lot of room for improvement, like using a more opaque white so the strip colors stand out even better, but really happy with how well it works.
  10. With any plant I feel like the growth slows down at the point where it runs out of space to grow. Not sure if it’s true, just what I tend to see in my tanks. I harvest mine on occasion to give it more room to grow.
  11. I am not sure I understand what you are saying, perhaps I need additional info from the study, but recently I found that PH greatly impacts Ammonia/Ammonium ratio, where I can have a tank at PH 6.2 and 6 ppm nh3/nh4 with out issues because it is almost all non toxic Ammonium That might be why the PH is only down to 6.95 in the testing, any lower and it wouldn't be deadly.
  12. With 1977 guppies and no specification on the type of guppies it is hard to make general conclusions on even specifically guppies as a whole. is there anything that explains the strain or source of the guppies? If it didn't result in the deaths of half the guppies, I'd be interested in a mondern study on different strains of guppies along with Abino guppies, feeder guppies to see if the perceived drop in heartiness in modern guppies is also an actual tolerance drop specific to nitrates. Id also be interested in how the guppies were sourced and if there was prepwork done prior to testing to ensure the guppies were healthy prior to exposure. Concerning the use of a chemical, in this study they do a high nitrate test through build up by lessened "water changes" and a test through chemically increasing the nitrates: ( both against controls) https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144860914000041 from my understanding of it, the test where the nitrates built up naturally showed greater impact on the fish growth. where with chemically increasing nitrates but keeping "water changes" the same showed almost no difference in growth. So while it might appear a hearty adult guppy can handle 100+ ppm nitrates long term, in a situation where nitrates have naturally gotten to 100+ ppm in a tank, there is a better chance the fish are facing other stressors than they are with clean water and the nitrates chemically jacked up.
  13. 7 out of the 10 are 50% dead in 3 days. Is this supposed to be how much nitrates fish can get before a 50% mortality rate? Guppy - 836 ppm - 50% dead in 3 days I wonder if those are fancy inbred 5 times over guppies, feeder guppies, or the cold water tolerant hearty guppies of the 60's and 70's.
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