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Everything posted by MattyIce

  1. So all the emersed stem plants that I tried to submerse died. sold off about 100 Val and pot Gayi cheap to the local club started a third tub using dirt substrate and a crushed coral eco complete substrate mix. Taking a bunch of the Val, I trimmed it down to individual plants or plants with a small runner and divided them between the old tub and this new one It has been about 3 months since that happened, don’t like the crushed coral eco complete, I still get algae and the algae clings really well so I end up pulling the substrate out when removing the algae, the pea pebbles are heavier and rounder and the algae does not cling as well: All three tubs have white clouds and cherry shrimp. the middle tub also had 3 Florida flag fish and the bottom has an oranda gold fish after replanting the val it has not grown back as well in the first Val tub and unfortunately the emersed stem plants never took off: but the dwarf sag is doing pretty well and the pearl weed is doing great, I also also have some nice red bacopa Carolina and there are still a few Taiwan Lily’s alive but that is about it in this tub: the gayi tank is doing great, after harvesting it’s taken right back off, and the jungle Val is also slowly taking over: The pearl weed I had gotten and was almost entirely melted, has bounced back very nicely: but the Nuri crypts arnt making any real improvement:
  2. So I've looked into this and I just looked into this again and I think I understand it some more now. There are 2 types of weathering Physical and Chemical, Physical is people walking on a path, waves crashing and rocks rubbing against each other. Chemical is organic acids from plants breaking down rocks and forming mineral clays and stuff like that. Mineral clays like kaolinite have a CEC of about 10 meq/100 g, while illite and smectite have CECs ranging from 25 to 100 meq/100 g. From what I understand it seems Eco complete is Inert in a closed system, but when going through chemical weathering organic acids break down the silica allowing minerals like iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, ect to be released while also creating the high CEC mineral clays listed above. So you are both right. it is an inert low cec substrate that, due to chemical weathering, breaks down over time, slowly releasing basic minerals and generating high CEC Mineral Clays. Though I may be wrong so please double check. https://www.tulane.edu/~sanelson/eens211/weathering&clayminerals.htm
  3. Started on this yesterday, finished up today, but I Found space for a 150 gallon pond in my fish room using a sticks and stones support kinda perpendicular to my 100 gallon pond:
  4. Friend hooked me up with some 175 gallon totes. Today I got 2 of them ready for summer tubbing. I put 3 bags of pea pebbles in each, built a connected pvc over flow, and added sponge filters. Then I took some 27 gallon totes, drilled 1 1/2 inch holes in the corners so I could thread bamboo through them for support, and drilled 100+ Small holes in them using a drill bit so I can use them as pond baskets:
  5. I had it bad with Jack Dempseys, tried Prozi, salt and epsom salt for a week, it got worse so I switched to feeding metroplex with focus and garlic guard, along with the salts for a week and worse still. I got some levamisole and the worms stopped moving soon after dosing, after about 4 hours they started falling out of the fish. I have never tried Nematol, the active ingredient seems to be something for those types of worms so I would think it would work, I would try it.
  6. I have a 300 gallon Rubbermaid that I had emptied last year but I left it out over winter where it had filled with rain water, leaves, ect Today I found out that it is packed full of daphnia, and my fish love it:
  7. consolidated a 3 ft rack of tanks and a 40 breeder into a 4 ft rack
  8. Thank you, the strips are most accurate after a min so I can’t really wait for them to dry and not needing to have it flat saves a lot of space. Been using it daily for certain tanks, 6-7 strips a day, and have not had any issues with drips messing up readings, instead of putting it directly on after dipping I’ve been waiting 5-10 seconds, seems to work well.
  9. With 15+ tanks, when taking a bunch of samples, I tend to loose track of which one came from which tank, so I came up with an idea today. Using some multi wall lexan I had left over from making lids, white plastic cover still on it so the colors stand out better, I used a sharpie to write out my tanks, and hung it up. The freshly dipped strips stick nicely: The only negative I’ve found so far is if they are too wet they can drip onto other strips and change their readings. a lot of room for improvement, like using a more opaque white so the strip colors stand out even better, but really happy with how well it works.
  10. With any plant I feel like the growth slows down at the point where it runs out of space to grow. Not sure if it’s true, just what I tend to see in my tanks. I harvest mine on occasion to give it more room to grow.
  11. I am not sure I understand what you are saying, perhaps I need additional info from the study, but recently I found that PH greatly impacts Ammonia/Ammonium ratio, where I can have a tank at PH 6.2 and 6 ppm nh3/nh4 with out issues because it is almost all non toxic Ammonium That might be why the PH is only down to 6.95 in the testing, any lower and it wouldn't be deadly.
  12. With 1977 guppies and no specification on the type of guppies it is hard to make general conclusions on even specifically guppies as a whole. is there anything that explains the strain or source of the guppies? If it didn't result in the deaths of half the guppies, I'd be interested in a mondern study on different strains of guppies along with Abino guppies, feeder guppies to see if the perceived drop in heartiness in modern guppies is also an actual tolerance drop specific to nitrates. Id also be interested in how the guppies were sourced and if there was prepwork done prior to testing to ensure the guppies were healthy prior to exposure. Concerning the use of a chemical, in this study they do a high nitrate test through build up by lessened "water changes" and a test through chemically increasing the nitrates: ( both against controls) https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0144860914000041 from my understanding of it, the test where the nitrates built up naturally showed greater impact on the fish growth. where with chemically increasing nitrates but keeping "water changes" the same showed almost no difference in growth. So while it might appear a hearty adult guppy can handle 100+ ppm nitrates long term, in a situation where nitrates have naturally gotten to 100+ ppm in a tank, there is a better chance the fish are facing other stressors than they are with clean water and the nitrates chemically jacked up.
  13. 7 out of the 10 are 50% dead in 3 days. Is this supposed to be how much nitrates fish can get before a 50% mortality rate? Guppy - 836 ppm - 50% dead in 3 days I wonder if those are fancy inbred 5 times over guppies, feeder guppies, or the cold water tolerant hearty guppies of the 60's and 70's.
  14. There is a lot there, not sure if I am understanding it all correctly. It seems the low oxygen is still an issue with the conversion of hemoglobin to methoglobin. Only that their exposure to it is not proportional to the speed of their breathing, and while they may need to breath more to consume more oxygen, it does not make the situation exponentially worse. Across the studies it seems the main thing that is happening is hemoglobin is being made incapable of carrying oxygen. Hypothetically, if there are 200 parts of oxygen every time water passes the gills and the fish typically needs 50, going up to needing 150 at 100ppm nitrates wouldn’t make a noticeable difference. I’d imagine it is more of an issue in nature with run off creating algae blooms and anoxic environments. I think in truly determining the toxicity of nitrates in a body of water, oxygen levels and labyrinth organs need to be considered. Also, what you quote notes only trout and some cray fish, I’d imagine that nitrate uptake through both gills and through stomach tissue can vary greatly across all fish and invertebrates, with some being more resistant than trout and some being less.
  15. Nitrate bonds with Hemoglobin to create Methoglobin which can no longer carry oxygen. This causes low oxygen concentrations in the fishes blood,(Human Blood, Livestock Blood, ect) requiring the fish to inhale more oxygen. in the study below, it found at around 100 ppm nitrate, oxygen was consumed at 3 times the rate with water at 0 nitrates. https://academic.oup.com/conphys/article/8/1/coz092/5658492 While not completely analogous, it seems like climbing mount Everest, where the higher one goes/ the higher the nitrates go, the less oxygen is able to be used. Having to take a breath more often than you are used to 24/7/365, the stress of that can't be good.
  16. So a month plus, decided to check the roots on some of the stem plants. Most of the stem is melting on this hygrophila, not really rooting too well, some of the stem is rotting, so I trimmed that off: Some of them, the roots seem to be adjusting to the dirted substrate, seeming to adjust from taking nutrients from the water column to taking then from the substrate: Kinda disappointed, decent light, dirted tub, macro and micro nutrients...So I added some root tabs, I puncture both ends with a razor blade so air can get out of the tab: I’ll give it 2 weeks and check back on the rooting:
  17. I would fast the fish for a day or 2, maybe more, and then slowly work back up to the amount of food you are currently feeding daily.
  18. I use solar naturals rock salt, tried with Fritz but didn't notice an improvement so I went back to the rock salt. Though to note, my tap water is at 450ish TDS and around 7.5 ph, so it might just be I didn't need the extra minerals from the fritz salt.
  19. A healthy food that turns into a perfectly balanced fertilizer.
  20. Are you still feeding your fish? If so I would stop for around 4 days while you continue with the water changes. If you are still feeding them they are putting the ammonia right back, and if you stop feeding them, they are going to continue adding ammonia for a few days while they digest the food, so that is why I say about 4 days of fasting. of course if you see any aggression while fasting them, feed them to help with it. For water changing if I need to get toxic levels down, I do a 60-70% water change first thing in the morning and a second in the evening, usually spread 8 or so hours apart. Once ammonia gets to around .25, I stop with the water changes and monitor that the tank gets the rest of the way to 0 on its own.
  21. Moved my tubs yesterday, reorganized an area behind one of my fish racks and set up a 4 foot wire rack for the tubs. Moving the tubs was terrible, definitely a two person job. They are very wobbly and not the sturdiest. I didn't like it, the lighting wasn’t that good and it was inconvenient trying to work in the tubs. I had about 5 inches space above the tubs to work with, I increased it to 8-10 ish. I also moved the tubs to alternating ends of the rack and set up the lamps to shine through the wire rack for each tub to give more light spread. With this set up I hope to set up 2 more of these tubs: Gayi tub is doing well: The jungle Val has started to send out a few runners but nothing incredible. 3 of the nurii crypts have started to grow new leaves, one melted though. The scarlet temple is doing pretty good and the Gayi is flourishing: the Val tub is also doing well: Blue hygro is looking good, some pearl weed trimmings I planted when I first set up the tub are really filling in, and the Val is doing incredible: im getting some algae in the tubs, last week I water changed but didn’t dose ferts but got more algae. Water changed yesterday, doses the gayi tank with ez green and flourish Advanced , but just dosed flourish advanced in the Val tank. Going to see what happens in a week. With this I also cut back the lights to 9 hours for both tubs and with moving the tubs the lights are a little further away in their new spot. I am hoping that will also help with the algae.
  22. I would recommend something more along the lines of a gladiator or edsal heavy duty 77 inch long rack, with some sheets of plywood cut to fit on the shelves. For the gladiator (Home Depot)/edsal (Lowes), I believe the supports take up a total of 5 inches of the listed 77, so there is around 6 feet of usable shelf, which should be more than enough for the 75, with shelf space on the sides, and the 6 x10 gallons would be around 63 inches, so the shelf would also be able to fit that request. Though I don't know how easy it would be to make it look nice, so it falls a little short there.
  23. I used some space behind a fish rack more efficiently:
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