Tony s

Have been doing a little research on this. Apparently dwarf chain loaches and pea puffers will eat the eggs. Obviously can’t keep either in the same tank with nerites. Would be interested if anyone has seen this

The hydrogen peroxide will work if pulling things out. Most bga is controlled through water changes and good cleaning. Mine was spread through my gravel vac. Didn’t realize it at the time. Knew I had it one tank on top of some hornwort. Was just chuckling the hornwort. Spores were still present. Spread it to 6 other tanks. chemiclean and erythromycin will kill it

Pandas are great. Very active and always chasing each other. At least mine do

10 for pandas 15 for Aeneas and sterbai 20 for julii thats for a bare minimum of six. Better rule of thumb for corys, always do more than 6 if you can.. they can be shy fish sometimes. You’ll always have more active and confident fish if you get more. You can see it in the behavior.. I had a group of 6 skunks in a 75g. They hid. I added 6 more and they’re all over the place

What are your current water parameters. Sometimes platys won’t have fry unless they’re really happy with their water quality or tank environment. I know mine did that. And don’t currently have as many fry. I have a species only platy tank. There’s probably 25-35 platys of all age ranges there.

question. what does this algae smell like when trying to rub it off. if it smells earthy or musty, could be a form of blue green algae. I had a red form of it. it grew very thickly onto plants and hardscape. not at all like the blanket you normally see. and wouldn't come off. took me forever to figure it out. have since carpet bombed all 14 tanks with erythromycin. it's slowly disappearing.

Best is to have both tanks established. And close to the same water as possible, causes less stress. It’s not always possible to do this though. If you can’t get it cycled, try and start with as clean a water as possible. Most treatments only last up to a week. If it’s an uncycled tank keep an eye on ammonia and nitrite. Don’t worry about nitrates for now. Hopefully you can complete treatments before you hit o.5 ppm ammonia. If not, you may be able to rescue a treatment by adding seachem prime. But don’t rely on it. for fish dying after water changes, you are dechlorinating? That’s the only thing that can damage fish by just changing water. Unless… have you tested your water out of the tap?

Welcome. You have beautiful fish

Yes, and unfortunately, sometimes dead fish

nerite snails do not reproduce in freshwater. They will lay eggs. tiny white dots allover. but the eggs won't survive. mystery snails are easy to control, you just have to remove the egg capsules, or fill the tank up enough to keep them from laying. they wont survive under water.

No idea. Could be some form of bacteria bloom. I once had some sand grow 2 inches of brown muck on the bottom of a tank. Never cleared until I treated the whole tank with erythromycin

I have roughly 30 in one tank. And at least 2 in all 14 tanks. Not having a waste issue. From what I see they consume more than they produce. Definitely worth keeping yes, I had one clutch get away from me. Even took 30 to the lfs for free

For now. Do a couple of water changes from your tap. That’ll bring it up closer to normal. You don’t really want to swing it up quickly. It’s probably going to take a couple of days. the boiling helped. Maybe not enough. You could pull the wood temporarily and boil it some more. Boil a few times. Changed water in pot between boiling. Then when it gets lower tannins you add it back If your fish are struggling with the lower ph. You could do a drastic water change. If not slowly is better

Best price is going to be the dollar per gallon sale. But our lfs has prices comparable to that normally. So just depends. Facebook marketplace can have some really good deals. You might just have to look there for awhile. It could take months to find what you’re looking for. But you’d want to have the ability to check its seal before you pick it up. And reseal it after purchase if needed. I know kgtropicals got one of their big tanks there.

Okay, never heard of that kit before. It should work just fine. Covers twice the parameters than the api. Also twice the price. But tests for gh/kh, poshates, and calcium. No reason to doubt it’s accuracy. Most people otest for the 3 main , they wouldn’t even know what the rest should be. You’d be way ahead of the game. But do you need it. No…. Up to you

Shouldn’t. But maybe? I’d check on the temperature range of some of your plants. And it als depends on how long they’re going to be there actually rethinking this. If The goal is grow out. You’ll want to keep them at optimal temperatures with the air stone. Possibly a light as well. Unless they’re low light plants. if the goal is mostly storage, and air stone and room temperature is probably fine.

Shouldn’t. But maybe? I’d check on the temperature range of some of your plants. And it als depends on how long they’re going to be there

Yeah, never seen a group that large. Might be off. But I don’t think you’re in any danger. Just keep an eye out. Not even sure they’ll unduly harass the female. Absolutely let us know what’s happening. Now you’ve got me curious

Yeah, this. They are pretty chill. You might need to just watch. If you see aggressive behavior. Rehome the offender take him back to lfs and trade genders

I might throw an airstone in there if you have a spare. It’ll bring in carbon dioxide and keep the water from stagnating

Nitrite bacteria is different than ammonia eating bacteria. It usually run a week or 2 behind.

I might think twice about the shrimp. Depending on the filter mechanism. I have a fluval flex with a baffle in the back. I spent 3 hours trying to get Kuhli loaches on the right side of it last weekend. Shrimp are worse apparently. Hopefully the marineland has a better system

Be interesting to see what it grows into

Nope, but it looks happy

there 3 main ways to start a tank. fish in requires constant monitoring and water changes when ammonia and nitrites get to0 high. above .5 ppm on ammonia. fishless can be easier, no water changes necessary. fritz makes a fritz fuel for ammonia source. or you can ghost feed your tank. adding food daily until you get to 2 ppm ammonia. also, no water changes. fish in is faster. but again, constant monitoring and water changes or it affects fish health. any of these 3 works. your choice. 1 betta by himself is not going to produce enough ammonia to be effective in a short amount of time. a better source of bacteria would be fritzyme7 or seachem stability. you'll probably want a bottle of seachem prime for after water changes. and possibly to help with excess ammonia after a change. don't worry about excess ammonia on plants. they'll love it oh, and Welcome to the forum