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About Me

Found 18 results

  1. If you think that your water is too gross to drink, then you need a water change. This is obviously not true to some degree but there's some truth. Like if I had to, I would drink my fish tank water because I know it's clean enough for my standards.
  2. I do my chemistry (the long painful way) once a week (because I am a paranoid fish rookie). My 40 Gallon has been doing great cycling wise, and I have had to REALLY work on DON'T TOUCH IT.. LEAVE IT... and I have. However, the manual algae removal and Diatom algae was getting to be a bit much because I just HATE how it looks. My plants have gone nuts in there, and I have already had to trim them and re plant the trimmings. Saturday I caved in and added 2 Oto's (they only had 2) and 1 Clown pleco (who I say for 5 hrs. and is hiding now). I fed them an algae wafer yesterday. My chemistry has not changed since I did it on April 15th (I know less than a week, but wanted to check because I added fish). Do I leave it? or should I do a water change? PH 7.4, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 and Nitrates 20 ppm ( I think) the colors are sometimes tough to read.
  3. I have a puzzle. I get 0.25 ppm ammonia readings in my tanks, tap water, and a local natural pond when I use the API test kit. I treat my tanks with Fritz complete during water changes and the ammonia reading persists. Anyone have an idea of what it might be?
  4. I have six tanks, and I like to do all my testing and maintenance on the same day, but I only have three test tubes (since I constantly break all the api ones) and I hate having to stop and wash them between every tank or twice a tank. So... This was my solution! I'm so proud of this. I found a piece of scrap wood in my dad's shop and used a drill press to put all the holes in. I ordered a pack of 30 test tubes for like 8 dollars on amazon. I bought a whiteboard poster board at the dollar store and peeled off the dry erase part, cut that into little pieces, and used some white glue to stick them down. I used a power sander to round up the corners and give it a touch of fancy! I'm so proud of this and it makes testing sooo much easier.
  5. I've always taken water from the top for testing, but does it matter if you take from the top or bottom of the aquarium in a 75 Gallon?
  6. Happy Sunday! I just got an API gh/kh test kit and really have no idea how to interpret the results. I know this question was probably posed a million times before, but I can't find what I need. I don't have any idea what my gh/kh results mean and how to improve the condition of my tank. Right now, I just have cherry shrimp, a Nerite snail and bladder snails in my planted 10g. But I would like to add pea puffers and move the others to another tank. I do small routine water changes to keep the nitrates around 20. Tank is two months old. Here are my levels: Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrates ~20 Ph 7.4 Now for what I don't understand: Kh 4 drops or 71.6 (I think that means 3-6 °) Gh 12 drops or 214.8 (I think that means above 11°) From what I gather, I need to lower the gh but I don't want to throw off the whole tank. The ammonia, nitrite, nitrates and pH have been so stable for weeks. What do you think and what should I do?
  7. is use api liquid test kit is there a way I can speed up water testing? specifically gh, kh, ph, nitrates I'm really clumsy and I spill/drop the test tubes all the time do the tetra test strips work well? are there quicker test or ways to speed up the current tests
  8. My daughter has two test that she puts in her tank and it has a continual readout. One is for ph and the other for ammonia (I think). Is there something like those for Nitrate, Nitrite, and the fifth one (on the strips)?
  9. I have an established QT that has been empty. I just added some new fish to it today and the SeaChem ammonia dot is at alert right now. API liquid test says .25 ppm. I also moved another sponge filter from a well established tank to the QT after seeing the ammonia reading. I added Fritz ACCR double dose as well. Would adding Fritz Zyme 7 to the tank help at all?
  10. So I am a bit frustrated. I am new to the Hobby after getting my first fist in October 2019 and really venturing into it mid 2020. I've had no water parameter issues for a loooooooong time. I tend to test my water parameters a day after I have done my water changes. I did nothing new this time around and my Ammonia and Nitrate are horribly up there. My poor fish! Idk what to do. Do I change the water again? What can I add? I'm so frustrated with myself for not knowing enough of what to do to be a better person to my fish. It doesn't help that my last Platy doesn't look to well. I isolated her and did quarantine with Maracyn and Maracyn 2 and she was getting better. Now she looks sunken in and is just in the bottom of the little quarantine basket. I want to pull my hair. Anyways here are the pictures of my water parameters in my tanks. This first one is my 20 gallon. My ammonia is always at 0 and my nitrates are usually around the 20 ppm mark. Did water change yesterday and cleaned filter which I do every other week. This tank has live plants. I'm so surprised about these readings as this has always been my "perfect" tank. =\ This second picture is my 10 gallon tank. Ammonia is at and my nitrates tend to be around the 10ppm. I haven't had a high reading like this in months! I don't want to lose my buddies. 😞 This tank I did a water change yesterday and it only has two live plants. Ugh. I understand now when people say they've left the hobby because it's so stressful. It's always been such a stress reducer for me and so calming. Has gotten me through lows in the pandemic but today I'm just so frustrated. Thank you for reading this post that is all over the place.
  11. Aloha! If you've been following my 40 gallon journal, you'll know I'm having issues with KH. I started off using Tetra's Easy Strips and have always gotten a result of 0 KH, 300 GH and pH of 7.2. That's been steady for a week now. I picked up some API test strips (bad reviews, I know) just to compare, and got the same results. Huh. Today I picked up API's liquid test for KH. Followed the instructions to add 1 drop to 5 ml tube of tank water, cap and invert several times. That gave me blue water - yay! Added 1 drop, capped and inverted and it turned yellow. Step 4 says, "The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from blue to yellow." Okay, so 2 drops for my test. Then, step 5 says, "The KH value is determined by the number of drops of test solution that mus be added to turn the water in the test tube bright yellow." Okay, keep adding drops. I stopped at 8 - it was getting darker, not brighter. What does "bright yellow" mean? Banana yellow? Box label yellow? Wish they'd included a color chart. 2 drops is 35.8 ppm, 8 drops is 143.2 ppm, so very different. Anyway, I'm going to go with 35.8 ppm since that's close enough to what 2 other tests have told me. Time to modify one of my fluidized filters and add a media bag of aragonite to it. Let's see what that does.
  12. Hi all, I have hard water (at least 300 ppm according to the Tetra test strip). Unfortunately I don’t know what makes up the hardness. I checked the board of water supply’s water report but it didn’t mention either component. I’ve found saltwater tests for calcium and magnesium but not freshwater. Anyone know of any testing mechanism for these two components, or does it matter?
  13. Does anyone use an App for keeping track of your parameters and maintenance of tanks? I do it old school on a clipboard and wanted to ise this thing called technology?
  14. Help .. any experience with these? I added 4 of these to my 7.5 gallon tab and the water got very cloudy even thou I put then deep in the substrate , Then I read other reviews and saw that it is a common thing that the water get cloudy and a lot of angry reviews but no one said how to fix and if it will be fixed ? anyone try those? did I ruin my water ?
  15. Hello everyone I am wondering what everyone uses for water testing mainly when setting up a new tank I usually use the api 5 in 1 water test strips is what I think there called but was wondering if there’s something else that I should be using
  16. Someone please help lol. I have the api master test kit and a gh and kh test. All liquid solutions. I’m trying to figure out what’s going on with my well water. Currently, out of the faucet my tests show ph- around 9, when I test gh, I put 2 drops in and it immediately goes green. Never shows orange. And for kh it only shows blue. I can put 30 drops in and it never changes to yellow. All the bottles say they still have 4 years before they expire. I don’t understand my results or if api is just junk?
  17. When pulling water for a test from a fry tank always look closely in the test tube. Never know what might have gotten in
  18. I'm having some issues with the accuracy of my water testing kits and was hoping the NERMs here can help me out. Initially I thought I had "old tank syndrome," since this tank has been running for approximately 3 years. It is very heavily planted and I have stopped adding liquid fertilizer the past 3 weeks to try and get this nitrate issue under control. My nitrites and ammonia are zero, but nitrates are showing between 80ppm and 160ppm according to the API master test kit (widely regarded in the hobby as the most reliable/accurate.) I have been playing with the Tetra test strips as well, and it shows the nitrate at 40ppm. Its still higher than I'd like, but shows that my efforts at correcting the issue might be working. I did a 30% water change last week but nitrates stayed steady. I did a 40% water change today and the API test kit still shows no change in nitrate levels. I would expect to see SOME improvement, as I have also been making a concerted effort to feed less and also cleaner foods (holding off on Repashy, for example.) I've tested my other tanks too, including ones that have not been running for too long (around 3-4 months, set up with a mature sponge filter and about 50% water from a mature tank) and I'm also getting very high nitrate readings, 40 to 80ppm. That doesn't seem realistic. Possible yes, but unlikely. I have checked the expiration dates and everything is well within working range. My tank is probably overstocked, so I am not completely innocent in all this, but I am very confused that I'm getting such different results. What do you guys use that you feel is the most accurate? I hate that all these tests are color based, I'd much rather get a reading from something like a pH meter. (*Insert science background rant here.*) Obviously I'll need to adjust stocking levels, but I need a way to monitor if I'm making progress!
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