Tony s

7 degrees can be a significant temperature difference. corys are tough, but I'd do a coarse drip acclimation. Put them in container of old water. Then add maybe a cupful of the hotter water a couple of 3-4 times. That should be sufficient. You do realize that, unless you have sterbai's, Corys are probably going to struggle a bit in the higher temps. They do best at normal temps around 78-79 and downward to 70, depending on species. There are a few, like the sterbai, that can handle the temps. But not a lot

never had juvenile bettas, very cool btw, i have no idea about their temperament. you could try. just be very alert and move swiftly if you see any aggression

I’m hoping anyone testing for ammonia has enough sense that a water change is the very first step to address the issue. The larger the spike, the bigger the water change. I might use it temporarily to reduce it further after a crash. Until the next change. The only way I can see relying on the prime for ammonia is when you’re in the middle of a round of medication. what usually happens, I’m guessing, is when newer tank keepers have a incomplete cycle. They worry about changing their water and throwing off their cycle. Not realizing that the bb does not inhabit the water column and changing the water won’t hurt the cycle. You also still have shops that are advocates of doing fish in cycles instead of fishless cycles. And using prime to assist personally, I have no need for a dechorinator, as I use RO water from a well. But I have heard bad stories from people who didn’t use it and their city spiked the chlorine levels on them. It might just be one of those things that you’d rather be safe than sorry. If you lose your pet for not using it. How horrible is that. if I lose one of the large animals we have from a missing vaccine, it costs me money. If I lose a dog that didn’t get a vaccine, it hits in a whole different way.

I have one tank that insists on growing hair algae. I just keep an eye on it and physically remove it when I see it. I pull it by hand, but you can wind it up in a toothbrush. It doesn’t really grow very quickly, so that works for me. Just a bit more maintenance. Not that much though. Have had it get really entangled in a couple of plants before. beyond what I could remove. Ended up pulling the plant and chucking it.

Sounds like you’re doing everything right so far. Maybe have some frozen or live foods to tempt her with. Hopefully she responds well, but she might not. She looks like she’s had a rough time before you. If she came from one of the big box stores, they don’t often last long anyway. I keep buying from them just to give the little guys a chance. I keep 6 in various kinds of tanks. Mostly community tanks. They usually last anywhere from 4 months to a couple of years. But, we try to make things better for them.

Honestly, they would prefer more swimming space. But, could you, yes you could. It’s a bit crowded, but not horribly so. You’ll have to watch the ammonia closely and keep up on your tank maintenance diligently. Smaller tanks are harder to keep stable. But, if you can, they’ll be perfectly fine. Enjoy your corys. They’re really just adorable little fish.

Sorry, I know nothing about baby tears. Never tried them before

I’m wondering if there’s a difference between your two’s ph and gh. That would affect the amount of calcium and magnesium available in your sources. It could also be a difference in the micro elements. Boron, selenium, manganese, sulfur, copper. Loads of variations. Not all harder water is created equal. Around us, we have varying rates of sulfur that can cause issues. And it’s not phosphorus that’s the issue, it’s iron. Okay, possibly phosphorus, haven’t checked that. But mostly iron

Yeah, I’m guessing from a liability perspective, they’re not going to say that part out loud. I’m sure they have an idea, but they just give you the per tank recipe. They do say that 2ppm is when you could use the 5x dose. I found it interesting that while they can prove it detoxifies nitrates and nitrites, that was a side effect. And they’re not exactly sure how. I’ve screwed up my cycle numerous times, and I’m very convinced it does actually work.

With the kanaplex and the food, I apparently gave an incorrect piece of advice out the other day. I really try to stay out of things I don’t know. Like diseases, but feel horrible for people when they kind of get overlooked, which is easily done. Especially since it was an angelfish with swim bladder, I keep angels so I understand getting more attached than you would a schooling fish. I wish there were a place that had a comprehensive list of meds and their best uses. But at least we have here.

Okay, thanks! I’m not at all used to dealing with aquatic diseases. And apparently they are very different from large animal’s diseases. Those are mostly gram positive. We only deal with a couple of gram negative diseases, actinobacilus pleuropnemonia, and ileitis (lawsonia intracelulitis (think chrohns disease )). I have tons (literally, I purchase meds by the ton) of animal medications for land animals, and my mill carries a USDA license for animal feeds. But I know zip about fish meds and best use practices, but trying to learn quickly.

Okay, learning something new. Almost always use m2 It’s what I can get easily. So when and what does kanaplex work on.

Possibly cryp parva. Needs root tabs. Grows in gravel fine but slow

The mold kind of looks like a white clear, goo. Lots of driftwood will do that. Not harmful. Bit unsightly. You have to give it some time to clear. It’s just bacteria eating away what it can eat. If it’s not done and you clean it by siphoning or brushing it off. It’s going to come back. When the food source starts to run out on the wood. Then you can clean it and it never comes back

Tiger barbs get relatively large and always feisty. So chilis would be very expensive fish food

Questions are great. Oh, there are lots of kinds of driftwood. Spiderwood is one. Relatively easy to work with. I built a mopani wood arch for my angelfish. I like mopani. Easy to work with but it will turn your water brown like tea. I actually like the look. My wife. Not so much. Some driftwood likes to float and takes anchoring down rocks. Or soaked in water before placing. Small pieces can be boiled to make sure it’s safe. Lots of way to go with wood. Many different types all depending on where they’re from and what they look like

Thanks! Just couldn’t find any information on the longevity of it. Or more importantly, the fish safety. Only just now hearing of the stone and pond product. Have only been using it great stuff since it was made. Just on doors, windows, livestock buildings 😀

Never had one, but thought this might help

I haven’t had bba yet, but, yes. Total blackout is supposed to clear it out. And should be okay for your plants as well. The key being absolutely black. So covering with black plastic seems to be easiest.

Really haven’t had an issue with raising fish. Except for standard neon tetras, and German blue rams. Both of which can be twitchy to start off with. Mind you, most of my fish live in communities, so I don’t really breed anything.there is a YouTube channel from Chicago called Primetime Aquatics with our waters. He only gives species profiles of fish that he raises in our water. There is even a member here that successfully keeps discus in this water as well. Got to remember that about 84% of the continental US has slightly hard to very hard water my list is kinda short, only been doing this a couple of years. My daughter won a feeder fish at a fair, died next day. So now we have fish. Who knew I’d get hooked. But, 6 types of Corydoras, angelfish, rainbow fish, danios, tetras (only have problems with regular neons), bettas, rasboras, lots of snails, guppies, otos, gouramis. And platys of course. Have around 32 in a 20 gallon. Anywhere from tiny fry to 2.5 year old adults. That’s what I’ve got currently. Most of which are a couple of years old with no problems. Even have 2 pairs of breeding angelfish. The fry get up to free swimming stage and then, unfortunately, get picked off by rainbow fish. I really need to separate them, but don’t currently have the tanks to do so. with our water, we can raise almost anything, but not everything will successfully breed. now, all that being said, I have had to change my water in the last year. My well water is so high in iron it turns everything rust colored. In the house and outside. To the point you really can’t irrigate anything outside, for the risk of changing its color permanently. So now everything inside is softened. And I’m having to use RO water to remove the salt. Then remineralize everything, balancing my ph, gh, and kh. Which, quite honestly, is a real pain. Keeping everything consistent is an issue. If you have most city waters, they do the hards parts for you and should work well. They don’t change the ph or hardness though. Which is okay, but gives you a consistent source. What I’ve learned is consistency is the key. Using what you have and not chasing the ph, gh, kh. The fish adapt as long as it’s consistent. my current water parameters I’m trying to make, ph 7.2, gh of 8, kh 4-6. Keeping it there is harder than I thought it would be. Just trying to create a basic neutral water at the moment. Have had water as high as 16 dgh when I started. Didn’t notice, treat the water when creating, didn’t check the tank. Kept adding treated water for top offs. Which keeps raising gh. No problems though, all fish are still here and doing well.

Bettas. Shrimp. Snails. 5 gallon is too small for anything else really. Possibly some micro rasboras. Betta breeding would be interesting

I have a platy colony. Your water looks a lot like mine. I do keep my temperature higher. I use a lot of hornwort in my tanks for cover. Maybe you don’t have enough hiding spots for fry to hide. Something like the hornwort, guppy grass, water wisteria. Some place for them to hide from larger fish. Filter intake could be another area. Mine intake is covered with sponge

It may just be a side effect of the breeding. The color of a lot of animals is on the x gene. When you have males they’re missing the tail of the x. So it shows differently. It’s why you can’t have male calico cats. Males only express one gene while females express both. So male cats have either red or gray, not both. Females can show both red and gray, so they have calicos guessing it’s the same mechanism In guppies. There’s one species of cichlid that the male is purple but the female is yellow. (Or vice versa). Was trying to find the species, but the name escapes me for the moment

Very common in guppies and other fish to show coloration differences between sexes. Most female guppies are more of a drab color, while the males get to show off. Very common in nature as well. Called sexual dimorphism. It’s why male cardinals are bright red and females are brown. Also why big box pet stores mostly sell only male guppies. They have the best appearance It’s males competing with other males for mating rights

2 things when a heater looks exactly like something Cory discontinued, it’s probably from the same base manufacturer and has the same issues and yes you could heat your room/house to the recommended tank temperature. But could you be comfortable there Some people do that, primetime aquatics, but way too warm for me.