ccc24

Agreed.

Agree with everyone else. It will your habits as a breeder that determine if this is possible in your tanks. You can breed only the best specimens, cull aggressively and you will improve the line. If you don’t do this, the line will not “self improve” and you will roll the dice with each generation as to the quality you get.

I’d agree with above. You don’t really know at the moment. You will need to monitor as you go. If you filtration doesn’t keep up after being given time to adjust, then you will need more. depending on the species you stock, flow may not be a factor. I’ve got mollies and rainbows in a tank with a spray bar and they love the flow but they are also fine in a tank without that. Unless you methodically plan out the exact species and number of fish (with sizes and feeding amount and plants, etc) - it’s going to be hard to say out of the gate. I’d just plan on slow stocking, frequent monitoring and have my eye on what I would want to up the filtration if my current one doesn’t work. Flexibility/adaptability is key.

I think it can be used daily if you were so inclined. I personally rotate it with dry foods just to keep my tanks conditioned/accepting a food I can easily use in auto feeders or ones a fish sitter can easily feed (vacations, etc). Otherwise one could feed out things like Repashy and live foods everyday.

I’m sorry. That’s no fun. It does seem to be going around again.

The number of tanks at my house is not in the double digits…I’m fine…it’s fine…I do not have a problem…

If you’ve prophylacticly treated him, you’re probably good. I’ve found my bettas tend to crash after a few days home. I tend to let them simmer in a 1:1 salt ratio for about a month. It is completely subjective but something about the salt seems to help them heal the damage of being stuck in those cups. They just tend to be lethargic and be poor eaters and something is just off I can’t put my finger on when they get home. Extended salt soak tends to help.

I feed a rotation of krill flake, live baby brine, frozen blood worms, nano pellets and the occasional betta pellet. He tried being picky, but that didn’t go well (he went hungry). I held my ground and now he will eat almost anything.

Cinnamon raisin - you either love it or hate it, but it was it is.

I’m in the unstructured group. I have so many kinds of food and I just open up the cabinet and pick one sinking/bottom food and one floating/water column food. My tank absolutely loooves nori and anything with a mouth capable of eating it - will. It’s meant for the plecos but that doesn’t stop my finned garbage disposals (I mean mollies) from joining in the fray. They will eat anything and I mean anything, they even try to eat the freckles off my arm when I’m cleaning the tank 😂 I feed out once a day in the evenings after dinner in my main tank. In my 20L where I’m trying to get some killifish to breed I feed twice a day. Q & Nano tanks are either fasting or once a day.

Received this plant in a “plant pack” and I have no idea what it is but we love the look of it. Any ideas?

I have no idea if this would genuinely work or not (I would lean towards “maybe” to “asking for trouble” by not supporting all edges of the tank) but I love the crash cart aspect.

I’m in with everyone else of the “don’t know what people did to it, maintenance, longevity left” camp. I want to get a good deal but the unknown just drives me away. And people ask a ridiculous amount for old tanks and like someone said above - they don’t clean them or try to make them look presentable. I’m all for a bio filter, but once it is emptied and moved I doubt any surface bacteria survive and I don’t want to scrub off crusty water deposits from someone else’s tank when I could just start fresh.

I did live baby brine shrimp for mine when smaller. Once larger I haven’t had any issue with them taking anything with a slow introduction. I would feed out baby brine and mix in pellets or flake food. I’ve fed mine frozen mysis shrimp, frozen blood worms (you can chop them into bite size pieces) and frozen daphnia. For “shelf stable” foods I feed krill flake, nano pellets, repashy, nori and bottom wafers to the tank they are in and I’ve seen them eat/nibble just about all of it. The more carnivore style foods are their favorites but they do nibble the other things floating around on occasion. Honestly, live foods aren’t the end all/be all. I hatch baby brine shrimp almost everyday and feed it out as a main food but I still mix in other things. I find it imperative that my tanks are willing to eat shelf stable foods as I plan on going on vacation, I might get sick, etc and it is far easier to put shelf stable foods in an auto feeder then to get a friend to touch frozen worms or live baby brine shrimp (and do it correctly). As an overall premise, my opinion would be to get as many fish in your care as you can to be willing to accept a shelf stable food (even if it’s not your main food or their favorite). Shelf stable foods have come a long way, if we were having the conversation 5-10 years ago about the standard flake available at a big box store - 100% live foods would be superior - but shelf stable foods have come so far in recent years - that a good quality, freshly opened jar is pretty good nowadays.

I cannot not order food. It’s ridiculous- I just love opening the food bin and picking out what variety they are getting tonight. It’s too much fun and I can’t stop.

I’d agree with this. It is a risk, but all the smaller ones that I could find online and at stores, stay on 24/7. So if they are plugged in, they are pumping out that wattage no matter what. We have temp swings where I am so I need it at night, but that much wattage during the day is a problem, or if the central air quits while I’m at work, same problem. I decided to take the risk in needing to replace it once a year and having way too much wattage and so I gain control over the day to day and have head precisely when I need it through the fluctuations day to day. Everyone has to weigh the pros and cons and for me, possible future failure (that one can theoretically prevent by putting in a new heater every 12-18 months) is worth the day to day stability of the model that can turn itself on and off as needed minute by minute.

Forgive the picture, I took it while while cleaning and planting the tank but I have a 100w in this tank as it was the only one that I could find in this compact size that has temperature control. All the little ones just pump out 15w or 50w or whatever it is, continually and on warmer days the tank was getting way too hot. This is a 6g. As long as the heater will stop heating - a 100w is fine.

I honestly wouldn’t heat it in the summer. I have the same tap issue (water comes out at 80) and with partial water changes, it doesn’t shift the temp much in my large tanks. It matters in my 6g but not in the 55g. I do keep fish that aren’t known for being sensitive (things like guppies, acara, mollies, rainbows not discus or rams). In the winter I’d just run two 100 watts. Less likely to fail and you’ve got a back up (and much easier to hide in the decor). I personally keep two ACO 100 watts in my 55g (one on each side) but it’s overkill in the summer. It’s more as a back up (one gets shut off most of the time) then anything. 1 was able to the job, I just like building redundancy into my systems.

Do brine shrimp need light regularly? I love this idea, but I would have lid the bucket (small children around). I love the idea of having a colony to feed out to my adult tanks.

The good thing about sponge filters is that you can experiment pretty easy (very easily repositioned or modded). I personally have it on the ends to try to decrease dead spots and aerate the whole tank. But give whatever you think is best a go, keep an eye on water parameters, look for signs of dead spots and adjust. Aquarium keeping is experimenting.

Long fin rosy barbs, long fin danios, single opaline gourami… I also like the idea of increasing the number of neons. They are pretty in large numbers.

Thank you! I appreciate the compliment. I’m aiming for “jungle” as the end look.

Yes. I have a 10 gallon I use as a hospital tank that I have placed a divider in and the fish have been perfectly fine with the arrangement. For dosing medications, you either do the math and use a very small oral medication syringe (for liquids like ICHX)or you can dump the medications in a predetermined amount of water, do the math and draw out what you need. You can put the “10gallon treatment” packet of maracyn in 50 mL of water. Then 5mL of that water treats one gallon so 5 gallons would get 25 mL of the mix. Store it in the fridge. Go for it!

You can be low tech and heavily planted - it’s just not as common. I plan on evolving my tank to be heavily planted and low tech.

I would consider my display tank to be moderately to “starting to be” heavily planted. It is low tech. A stingray on a timer and regular fertilization with easy green and easy root tabs. I actually have a few more spots I want to fill in, but I’m waiting to see what a few of the plants do first. I’d say to be considered “heavily” planted by no official means but my own opinion: - Can you loose a fish in the aquarium for days at a time and then it re-emerge perfectly healthy? - Do you loose equipment in plants? - Do you see masses of plants when looking at the aquarium instead of fish?