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Cory
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Posts posted by Cory
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7 minutes ago, Wisnasky-tank said:
I love this post because I’m kinda in same boat I have Oscar tank been racking my brain on plants that I can put in with them I also have a bichir that’s growing out to go with them along with leopard plec and few cichlids so with that said I’d like plants to help with the levels of nitrate etc just new at it myself and @Cory pothos out the top so this plant is a floater? I have an order from you on the way for a moss ball amazon sword and nana plant I am gonna try to sneak this nana in there tank behind there cave setup hoping it will work out
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You'd likely need more sale then what you have on hand. 1 Tablespoon per gallon is what I would do. Also know that it'll kill your plants. I can see in the last picture it looks like your severum has some other cysts on his dorsal fins. Ich X could also do this if you don't want to remove the plants. Unfortunately big tanks take a lot of meds. Good news is 1 bottle of ich X should get you through this.
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I'd say start a dedicated shrimp tank and start with cherry shrimp. Also buying shrimp the day they come in to the store is likely not helping ya much. You'll want well established shrimp. Fish are all shrimp predators, being hunted adds stress. Typically things can handle 1 stress factor. However being moved to a new tank, being hunted, and possible different water parameters can often be too much for the shrimp to handle. This is why I recommend starting a shrimp only tank first. Then you can start playing with fish as well once you have a thriving colony so you don't go broke trying shrimp several times.
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Have the fish ever been dewormed with something like Paracleanse?
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Sounds like you're mostly wasting brain power. With the goldfish just use plants in the tank for nutrient export. For the oscar tanks grow some pothos out of the top. It doesn't happen often in freshwater because water changes are cheap and easy. You also kinda end up at the point of, check it out, I have a 300g tank with a 100g refugium. Why not just got 400g with the easiest nutrient export methods mentioned above?
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Wow a lot going on there. To start from the beginning, how were the gill flukes diagnosed? Under a microscope?
I'd make sure my water was at least 7.2 pH currently. I'd be using 1 tablespoon of salt per gallon and letting that soak without feeding the fish, watching for ammonia. If ammonia got above 0.5ppm, I'd do large water change, redose the salt and let this fish rest for at least 7-10 days. The salt will keep any fungus/bacterial at bay and is quite hard on flukes but likely won't kill it for you. But enough to let that fish rest up before bringing on more meds.
I'd wager that the high dose of salt and making sure water parameters are good, PH being the most important will lead to a recovery.
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Power run to the two new walls today, stairs got replaced. Then Dean put together a table I’m gonna use for aquariums, now to order more.
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Dump trucks bringing in all the earth and gravel for cargo containers that we are gonna store goods in.
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This isn’t something we will doing. Sharing shipping addresses, sellling will happen. People will get angry over duckweed, snails, disease sickness etc.
This forum is a place to discuss the hobby. Not a place to sell or give away. You can do that on other platforms. The liability is not something Aquarium coop will be taking on.
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Typically one spot isn’t ich, could be the start of it, or a fungus or a cyst.
when you get the trio I’d start with ich x/maracyn. 1 dose of each and let it sit for like a week. After that, let the fish rest for a week. Then on the 3rd week use paracleanse to deworm the fish.
this is a slower treatment that is less stress on the fish. Plus we suspect an active infection starting and may have to switch gears if it continues to develop and we can diagnose it.
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My two main tips. Isolate the aquarium, all other aquarium lights/room lights are off.
Second, it's all in the camera. With 20k of equipment in the room. I can get amazing shots with a $800 camera. The Sony Zv1 or any of the rx100. It'll take me 5 minutes, and a good shot. Now take Jimmy, give him 2 hours, 6k in equipment and he'll get a mind blowing shot.
The biggest difference is time. When we are on location we might have 1 hour to film, and 30 minutes for photos/b roll. So we need really good shots quick, but not the best shots ever. I find that a camera that can shoot 10-20 shots a second does well, as 50% of the fish photo game is getting the fish in the right spot in the tank under the light, without another fish in front of it, facing the right direction. Then getting your camera to focus fast enough on it's eye. After that adjusting your bokeh and such to see more or less depending on taste. I like to see all the fish and tank in focus. Jimmy likes to see just the 1 fish with the background blown out. So he uses lower aperture and I like higher aperture.
@JimmyGimbal can give some tips.
I'll leave this video Jimmy did on fish photography.
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I find salt does wonders for this, if you have a QT tank or no plants in his tank, salt over the course of like a month will really help we find.
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I always thought about trying the stuff that looks like construction paper but is foam used in craft projects. It feel so similar to rimless tank mats.
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On 9/29/2020 at 8:07 PM, RyanR said:
The only things I've heard is about blue lights. The blue lights grow algae quickly and that plants don't "see" blue lights, so to plants it's like having the lights off.
Just wanted to chime in here. Blue light doesn't grow algae any quicker than other light. Plants see Green the least, but our human eyes see green light the best. I'm not not sure what spectrums fish see the best/worst. Blue night lights "grow algae" because the light is on 24/7, the color it is doesn't really contribute to the algae grow, just the fact that algae is able to photosynthesize for 24 hours instead of a typical 8-12 hour period. Plants also can't really go past 14 hours, they have to rest where algae doesn't.
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When it's in stock..... They do sell a 3.75lb container of the bug bites. That being said Fluval has been having issues keeping anything in stock. A lot of shops like mine won't sell it because it's so expensive and so few will sell. I'm seeing prices of like $50-$50 for that container of food. You can google to find someone selling if you're looking for that big of a container.
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8 minutes ago, Andrew Puhr said:
Are you going to try to match the wood shingling on the outside or is that a next year project?
Yep, we are matching, if you look at the first photo of the latest updated, near the left wall all the cedar shingles are piled up. Trying to get all construction done early so there are no disruptions in youtube content down the road 😉
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2 minutes ago, Tedrock said:
Thanks Cory, I didn’t know if there was such a difference in stock that it warranted me to pitch my current plastic container and start new. I just will have to wait now to experience the great product. Also it is noted you did not do the up sell and had the best interest of your “public” in mind. Thank you.
Ted
Well without knowing your eggs. Likely it's something like this. lets say your current eggs hatch out at 75%. Our eggs hatch out at 90-95%. For the average home hobbyist the extra 20% probably isn't worth paying more for when you have eggs in hand already. As a fish breeder, that may cut down on time to feed etc, it might make sense. However I personally always try and use up what I have before buying new. Going forward I would recommend ours. However until then, likely your eggs are just fine for your needs. If you're getting like 50% or lower hatch rates, your time is probably worth enough to try ours then but those would be some really bad or old eggs if the hatch was that low.
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Just to confirm, parameters are still looking good? I know often people fishless cycle the tank, it looks ready on paper. Add fish and feed, and then fish die. Then they notice they now have ammonia that could have caused it. In general new tanks are unstable and stressful compared to a well seasoned tank.
Also remember that sometimes things just go wrong and we can't figure out why, I start with, lets check common places, at some point if nothing turns up, I chalk it up to bad luck/ I don't have the skill set to figure out what went wrong and I try again.
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I thought I would start a thread for the local club meetings. With covid they have been online, I know @Dean’s Fishroom attends them, I seem to make about half of them. They are held on youtube. The next one is on the 13th.
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The hatch rate is really good. However I would use up what you have since they are free.
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The same way I have articles about fish with none to buy on the website.
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I got hooked on rice fish when I went to Japan the first time. Then bought all I could here and bred them and in my opinion helped popularize them a bit. Now when I go back, I can spot varieties we don't have. In Japan there were specific rice fish foods, just like guppy foods, different rice fish breeding setups, rice fish only magazines etc. Was quite the craze. This would have been like 4-5 years ago. You can see the rice fish in my videos where I went to Japanese fish stores.
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Look like cysts as opposed to ich. Salt may help, reducing stress usually helps as well.
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Wondershells will raise your GH, but shouldn't raise your KH.
The new fish room and studio build thread.
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Yeah, so I can watch for snipers in the trees 😛