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Cory
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Posts posted by Cory
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I've never seen one clog as well. We have hundreds in use for a very long time. I'd be interested in seeing in what scenario it clogged?
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In the future, this is a question meant for our customer service. We anticipate them back in stock in the next two weeks. They are sitting at port delayed currently.
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Iphones have this problem with most software as they don't store the data like other devices. So Iphones typically have the sideways pictures because it doesn't stamp the photo with what should be the bottom I believe. At least last time I looked into it when it was being a problem.
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I'd use Maracyn and Ich X combo to fix it. 1 dose of each let sit for a few days, then water change and do that again.
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This is a complex chemistry question. For the easy version, nitrates from fish waste and fertilizer will act in your aquarium the same essentially. There are differences, but as a hobbyist we are unlikely to see them.
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You'll be fine, anything under 40ppm isn't considered high in planted aquariums. I regularly aim to have my nitrates that high.
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The channel I actually watch the most, which isn't saying a lot cause I rarely find time, is Tazawa's Tanks. I think it's because he does projects I don't do, with brackish and his editing style is different than others. I burn out on fish content easily as I have to create it. So I watch tech youtubers as my "outlet".
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Fluval just released one that I thought looks pretty neat. Haven't tested it though. I do believe UV sterilizers are a good thing and some day Aquarium Co-Op will release a version that aims to check all the boxes. For now, I reserve the use of them for fighting green water essentially.
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I use 2 tablespoons of Fritz RPM salt, 2 liters of water. And I've hatched up to 2 tablespoons of eggs. When doing 2 tablespoons don't forget to harvest at like 20ish hours, at like 30 hours, the water will foul. At 1 tablespoon of eggs, no problem at basically any time harvesting.
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You could run it in a bucket. However I'd say a good cleaning of the canister is what I'd do then let it sit empty. Setup the tank again, the gravel will have some bacterial, and let the tank establish itself as you normally would. Bacteria is abou the easiest thing to establish in a tank, getting everything stable, some algae growing and different strains of hardy bacteria takes time and won't survive a move like this.
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The original post is quite a thing to tackle to address everything there. The light you have is more than enough to establish high light. However currently your floating plants are blocking nearly all of the light. The floating plants will also be taking the lions share of fertilizer as well.
As for the scarlet temple, the plant still does best when planted so it can establish roots. It can be grown the way you are currently but I suspect you'll have the stems rot where the plant weight is.
Each tank is different and you'll need to monitor water parameters and make some education decisions when it comes to how much light for how long and adjusting over time. My first step would be removing at least 50% of the floating plants so the rest of the plants can get some light and nutrients.
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Typically I find just a standard hardness test is enough, If you're missing calcium you can identify it by the deficiency in the plants.
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Yes, you want to treat the whole tank to keep it from spreading.
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Keep em coming, need enough to do a Meme Live Stream again 😛
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The best advice I got was from a fish breeder. This breeder named Andy actually built my store. In his teens he worked at pet stores, after that he ran his own fish farm in California. After that he ran a big plant nursery. Then he became a bee keeper to produce honey. The thing that remained constant in all of those was "You have to touch nature every day"
The lesson here was no amount of automation, chemicals, money could outdo a human who interacted with the subject every day. From what I can tell he is right, his fish that he supplied me were like no other, his plants were always crazy good. His tanks would pearl without co2 injection etc.
I've found that if I put attention towards my tanks every day where I take dedicated time to observe, cull, trim, clean etc they do leagues better than just feeding and cleaning.
Most people wouldn't know I attribute all of my success to Andy, he taught me many things in life in the 2 years it took to build the co-op, and the friendship after.
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The other thing I'd point out, over time fish can become dependant on live foods. This becomes a problem if you ever want to travel and have someone feed for you as they are less likely to do live food feeding tasks. Also if there is a disruption in supply it's a problem as well. For this I always recommend having them used to eating frozen and dry foods as well.
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I'd say co2 in the water is the culprit. It's quite common in tap water especially with high pH where the city is trying to keep it lower for "safety" of pipes.
Also as for lower ph, I'd never target anything lower than 7.0. The only species I've ever bred that required it was crystal shrimp. Every other apisto and other fish that "needs lower ph and softer water" has spawned at 7 or higher for me that I've tried.
I'd be using a mix of R/O water and your tap water to get desired results. Or just setup tanks that don't get water changes, they'd acidify over time, plants would remove minerals. Then you'd only top off with tap water to replace the minerals and maintain pH. Could do the same with start with R/O water, but would need to be much more careful at the beginning making sure the plants can keep up.
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I'd say the culprit is the nitrites. Even small amounts are quite bad. Guppies can be in rough shape at a pet store, using the meds when you got them is a good step to start recovering them, however with the nitrite in the water recovery probably wasn't possible. I'd get your tank to stabilize further, and if you'd like guppies try again. It appears the tank wasn't ready to handle adding the 28 new inhabitants. For now I'd cut back feeding by at least 50% while the tank is playing catch up.
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You don't have to buy the same size, typically something 50 cent piece size or larger will do ok. I'd add 2-3 to spread any aggression that may happen. Do a partial water change before hand and feed while adding them so fish are distracted by food instead of the new tank mates.
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Welcome to the forum!
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With the aquasoil, typical cycle time is 1-3 months. As for your pH it's very low, I find some crushed coral helps in the filter. If the pH gets to low, like 5 or lower, it actually can kill off bacteria in extreme cases.
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Yep, you've got it. Just overflow the water out.
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It won't die from being alone. However you may not need to quarantine it. I personally would put some maracyn in the main tank and observe, to see if it heals up. It can often happen that when yous ee one fish with symptoms, others hare a problem as well but aren't presenting yet. This looks like the start of a bacterial infection from the one picture, but would be something else with more pictures/symptoms.
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It's a different med and in my experience hasn't been as effected. You'd follow the directions on the package.
Does a Quick disconnect exist for airline tubing?
in General Discussion
Posted
These cheap green ones are quick disconnect. I used to use them way back in the day cause there weren't many options. It was expensive lees connectors or stainless steel ones when setting up a fish room. These were cheap on ebay and still are. Not my favorite for a fish room loop, because sometimes they can fall off, or easy to knock one off when working on a tank and it's hanging from the ceiling.
Essentially one of the ends, pulls out. It doesn't show it in the picture well but if you look you can see that one one of the 2 ends is meant to pull out from the main valve. Disregard the screw in valve, that can come out of all of them, specifically one end detaches.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114402735945