.png.4ce20f94c953b25953f538cdc4e6315a.png){kind=avatar}
Cory
-
Posts
2,681 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Store
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Profiles
Posts posted by Cory
-
-
As for something to strain the brine shrimp, we are slowly working on that as well. I'd say part of our process is pretty slow testing out lots of things to find out what the best is. Then making it better if we need to. Dean and I have been talking and we'll be working on some more testing and eventually we'll have a good solution to go with our eggs.
-
4 hours ago, StephenP2003 said:
I've had the urge to correct the descriptions on a number of their product listings, but I didn't want to be THAT guy!
We welcome the help, a quick email, gets added to my todo list and I usually get changes done within 24 hours. I have to write the technical stuff for products, and then code all the custom stuff for them. It's a few other people's job's to proof what I've written. Past few weeks have been crazy, one person was out of town, one person is on Jury Duty, and the other was filling in lol. I'm also known to break grammar and such with edits.
Originally it had started, the 100 gram container with small sized measuring spoon is meant for a hobbyist level aquarist. Once we found out they arrived with the mistake of missing spoons, I had to make the edit quickly and clearly pulled a Cory 😛
-
21 hours ago, TheDukeAnumber1 said:
.3tsp eggs tested and the hatch rate and separation did appear to be better than what I have been using. I will be tempted to run through my old stock extra quickly. Ty Co-op.
On a side note, under to Co-op website brine shrimp description it reads, "100 gram sized container is meant for most hobbyists level aquarists."
Wondering if it should read "The 100 gram sized container is meant for most hobby level aquarists."
Fixed 😉
-
53 minutes ago, Ken Burke said:
@Kellyi had a good experience with aquabid. I had a very bad experience with Arizona Aquatic gardens. BBB grades them as F
Please review the guidelines, we don't discuss other aquarium companies both positive or negative. I'll lock this thread, I'm sure it's an honest mistake.
-
Ive never personally had Epsom salts cure a fish so I don’t really do them. As for water changes after 3 or 4 you’d be good to go if the goal was removing most of the meds.
-
Yes, plenty of room for those fish.
-
I doubt it's an issue, professional farms do 50 females to each male.
-
I'd say give it at least a week.
-
If the grass is well established it can work out, if it's newly planted they may dig it up.
-
I always leave them in the tank to resprout.
-
At this point it would be much harder to even find wild ones for sale. Commonly captive bred. Tons of aquarium fish are endangered, however commercially bred and abundant. Also many species that are tracked, the data is spotty at best. Lots of it looks like the population would decline. WIthout anyone following up to see if it did, or it grew.
-
There really isn't a good known method to treat dropsy, it's often fatal. Unfortunately there isn't a recipe for treatment as there can be different causes like different organ failure and constipation.
-
Common for fighting to happen with fry in the tank if they sense a predator.
-
Hard to say, could be bacterial infection or internal hemorrhaging. For now, I'd let the meds do their work. Or possibly add some salt to the tank.
-
Why couldn't you do this?
-
How does it affect ich X? it cuts into their profit margins. I've used ich x with about every dechlor under the sun and never had any adverse reaction. Also seen no positive difference by using hikari ultimate.
-
2 hours ago, TheDukeAnumber1 said:
I haven't kept many "wet pet fish" but the ones I have I've made sure to keep some photos saved and organized.
When things are settled at the new place will Hank get his final resting place there?
That's the hope. Finally plant the maple tree and Hank.
-
I would go with the 90 degrees and salt method. WIth more information, we could weigh in more, like what the water parameters currently are including temps.
-
6 minutes ago, Streetwise said:
How many gallons should you be running to make doing brine shrimp with the hatchery practical?
I myself have done it even with just one tank that needed it. However I look at having a hatchery as something I'll use forever. You can harvest just a few eggs or a bunch depending on your need.
I've been through phases where a can of eggs last me a few weeks, and times where it's lasted me years. Just depends on how much I'm trying to breed. -
43 minutes ago, Ben Ellison said:
Is there a time limit from hatch to feed where the benefits fall off? Also how long can they love period after hatching before they need to be fed ? Brine shrimp and co2 are the two items I knownthe least about, but really want to get into and learn.
Technically every hour after they've hatched they are becoming "less" nutritious. However it's like going from 100% to 92%. Still amazing good.
As for how long can they live? If you have low egg count and lots of water, a few days in the hatcher. So maybe like half a teaspoon of eggs, in 2 liters of water, Where when I do 2 tablespoons in 2 liters, if I forget to harvest by like 6-10 hours, The water fouls ands kills them all.
-
Have you tried using an incandescent light bulb next to it for a heat source? A lot of people would say... Uhhh I'll get a real heater... The reality is, an incandescent light bulb is a cheap heater. 25 watt, 50 watt, 75, watt 100 watt. All put into a lamp near it, which you normally want a light anyway, and you just find what wattach you can leave on 24/7 that will add the degrees you need. I'd start with a 75 watt bulb, and then adjust the distance between the hatcher and the bulb.
Ok, let me explain why... I'm lazy. I don't want to unplug the heater every time I harvest. On top of that i'll need to rinse the header each time to get off any brine or eggs to keep from fowling the next batch. The light fixes all of those problems for me and I use a light either way anyways.
-
It is achievable? Sure. But without knowing what plants and the structure of the water, it would just be guessing.
As an example, a well could have every nutrient a plant would need in the water already. Depend on how you fed and what plants you had, you'd virtually be self sustaining. Something slow growing like anubias and fish food can go a long way without anything else.
-
9 hours ago, TheDukeAnumber1 said:
I recently switched over to mechanical keyboards and am a big fan of this one. IMO it's a good value for the price. I also have a razer blackwidow elite but prefer the G512 for the better feel and sound of the keys on the board. They are marketed for "gaming" but I use them as productivity keyboards and bought them with their linear switches.
Big fan of their Mice. I looked at that keyboard, I ended up going with this one, as I wanted one without the keypad. I find myself never really utilizing it. Turns out it feels like my desk is huge now that the number pad is gone and the mouse and travel for miles lol.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VXR9RY7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-
I believe live baby brine can live up to like 8 hours in freshwater. The problem becomes if they fish haven't eaten them all they usually get sucked into filtration long before they die of the freshwater shock. Another reason I like sponge filters over power filters especially in my breeding tanks as they don't gobble up my brine shrimp 😛
Quarantine invertebrates with meds - how long?
in Diseases
Posted
The only med that affects the snails will be prazi, Typically you don't need to med inverts. Or I should so I don't and haven't run into problems, Your mileage may vary.