What DIY tools have you made to make your hobby easier?

[nabokovfan87]

This guy is a genius.  Sometimes you just gotta 3d print a thingamajig and it's this useful.
 

 

[AllFishNoBrakes]

On 6/19/2023 at 1:08 AM, nabokovfan87 said:

This guy is a genius.

Too good. Now, he needs to make the holder for the test tube so you can shake that bad boy for a minute, too!

[Tanked]

On 6/19/2023 at 2:22 PM, AllFishNoBrakes said:

Too good. Now, he needs to make the holder for the test tube so you can shake that bad boy for a minute, too!

...and a stand so he doesn't have to hold the jig saw💡

[nabokovfan87]

4 hours ago, Tanked said:

and a stand so he doesn't have to hold the jig saw💡

😂 That's half the fun!

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 9/21/2022 at 10:33 PM, AllFishNoBrakes said:

I guess I could show off this bad boy, too. 
 

This is how I filled water back into tanks before I had a Python. The pump would sit in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket, and has an adjuster for how fast the water runs through it. Water went in the pump, up the tubing, and then the pvc was built to hang over the rim of a tank. The caps on the end of the apparatus has a ton of small holes drilled in it, acting like a spray bar instead of just pushing water straight down or out the sides. Diffused the water to not disturb the substrate. Fill up the 5 gallon bucket with water and the pump, start filling a second bucket in the sink, turn on the pump, and then keep dumping water into the bucket with the pump until the tank is full. 
 

I actually just sold this apparatus to a co-worker who also got into fish keeping. Charged them a fraction of the overall price to make without labor, but felt cool passing on something that helped me early on to help out a friend. 

I know this is an older thread, but I am interested in making something like this for speeding up the refilling part of water changes. I use an RO/tap water blend in buckets, so I don't want to use a Python.

My question is, do you think I could install a ball valve where the hose meets the pipe, or would it put stress on a pond pump's motor to have the flow restricted like that?

[AllFishNoBrakes]

@Rube_Goldfish Personally, I wouldn’t sweat putting a ball valve on it. I’m not an engineer, but I wouldn’t hesitate to try it. 

[mynameisnobody]

Agreed, I think you’d be able to see if the pump was effected via reduction of flow. If this happens, you know what you’re dealing with. If it doesn’t impede flow, you’re good to go. 

[Odd Duck]

On 7/7/2024 at 11:08 AM, Rube_Goldfish said:

I know this is an older thread, but I am interested in making something like this for speeding up the refilling part of water changes. I use an RO/tap water blend in buckets, so I don't want to use a Python.

My question is, do you think I could install a ball valve where the hose meets the pipe, or would it put stress on a pond pump's motor to have the flow restricted like that?

You mean like this?  My mixing barrel and filler.  When I eventually do it over, I would change the lever ball valve to a gate valve (like an outdoor hose faucet but plastic) that’s easier to turn and more precise to adjust for small tanks.  I would also shorten the disperser (it’s too long for my shallower tanks) and I’d do an upside down “T” with wider diameter pipe for the arms of the “T” and the arms as short as I can make them with no holes drilled pointing straight down (or up) - mostly sideways towards and away from the glass (angled a little up or down should be OK).

 

I know, sloppy glue job!  😝 

[TOtrees]

On 7/7/2024 at 12:08 PM, Rube_Goldfish said:

My question is, do you think I could install a ball valve where the hose meets the pipe, or would it put stress on a pond pump's motor to have the flow restricted like that?

I've always read/heard that you can choke or reduce the outbound flow from a pump, but shouldn't limit the inbound flow. You should be fine with your ball valve addition, if it's after the pump. I wouldn't run the pump endlessly with the valve in the off position, but for brief periods you shouldn't have issues.

In terms of design, one potential problem is that without a shut-off, the pressure in your hose is never really high, so a blow out or leak is almost impossible. But the moment you put that valve in-line and turn it to off, the pressure will increase and your connections need to be able to withstand that. 

An alternative that I love is a remote switch on the pump plug, eg where it plugs into the wall. Amazon has a bunch of options, if you search for "outlet remote". They look like this...

... and are a low(er)-tech version of a smart plug. I don't like the smart plugs for water changes because of the small lag between pressing the button, and the switch responding. Even more, if your phone is in your pocket and you need the plug off NOW, you still have to unlock it and get to the right app/screen. Seconds count when the tank is overflowing ask me how I know. 

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 7/8/2024 at 4:59 AM, Odd Duck said:

You mean like this?  My mixing barrel and filler.  When I eventually do it over, I would change the lever ball valve to a gate valve (like an outdoor hose faucet but plastic) that’s easier to turn and more precise to adjust for small tanks.  I would also shorten the disperser (it’s too long for my shallower tanks) and I’d do an upside down “T” with wider diameter pipe for the arms of the “T” and the arms as short as I can make them with no holes drilled pointing straight down (or up) - mostly sideways towards and away from the glass (angled a little up or down should be OK).

 

I know, sloppy glue job!  😝 

Yes, pretty much exactly like that! I was picturing the valve at the point where the hose meets the PVC, but I think I like the design of yours on top. It looks a little more ergonomic.

On 7/8/2024 at 7:37 AM, TOtrees said:

I've always read/heard that you can choke or reduce the outbound flow from a pump, but shouldn't limit the inbound flow. You should be fine with your ball valve addition, if it's after the pump. I wouldn't run the pump endlessly with the valve in the off position, but for brief periods you shouldn't have issues.

In terms of design, one potential problem is that without a shut-off, the pressure in your hose is never really high, so a blow out or leak is almost impossible. But the moment you put that valve in-line and turn it to off, the pressure will increase and your connections need to be able to withstand that. 

An alternative that I love is a remote switch on the pump plug, eg where it plugs into the wall. Amazon has a bunch of options, if you search for "outlet remote". They look like this...

... and are a low(er)-tech version of a smart plug. I don't like the smart plugs for water changes because of the small lag between pressing the button, and the switch responding. Even more, if your phone is in your pocket and you need the plug off NOW, you still have to unlock it and get to the right app/screen. Seconds count when the tank is overflowing ask me how I know. 

That's a great idea, I didn't know those existed. I've never quite reached the overflow point when working with pumps but I've had a few intense scrambles to pull the plug!

[TOtrees]

On 7/8/2024 at 4:59 AM, Odd Duck said:

My mixing barrel and filler.

 

Gotta highlight a great design feature here... All the unions and joins between the pump and the valve are glued/clamped, EXCEPT the one at the pump. If something is going to blow from over-pressure, the bottom of the bucket is the best place for it. Eg that's where you put your weakest connection. 

[Tanked]

Keep in mind that when you turn the pump shuts off, it becomes a syphon.

[Lonkley]

I had printed a new intake for my fx4 to replace the microphone. It might have it's uses but I prefer to use a co-op prefilter.

Still needs tweaking but I'm using the prototype and it's working well. 

 

 

[TOtrees]

On 7/8/2024 at 9:14 AM, Lonkley said:

I had printed a new intake for my fx4 to replace the microphone.

When did they start making voice-activated filters? 

[Jeff]

I wanna build your siphon @AllFishNoBrakes  what is this part called, so I  can buy it? 

Tell me more about your mixing barrel @Odd Duck  I have two empty Brute cans that I was gonna use for saltwater. But SW has been scrapped. 
 

Whst do you use it for? I'd love to use mine for FW for something useful. 

Edited July 8 by Jeff

[Lonkley]

On 7/8/2024 at 7:46 AM, TOtrees said:

When did they start making voice-activated filters? 

You know. This thing 

 

[Odd Duck]

On 7/8/2024 at 7:23 AM, TOtrees said:

Gotta highlight a great design feature here... All the unions and joins between the pump and the valve are glued/clamped, EXCEPT the one at the pump. If something is going to blow from over-pressure, the bottom of the bucket is the best place for it. Eg that's where you put your weakest connection. 

Yes, exactly!  If it blows off, blow deep in the barrel!

[johnnyxxl]

On 9/21/2022 at 4:36 PM, Jess said:

These are super cool! Thanks for sharing!

I was just about to make a post asking folks for a link to their favorite clip-on LED light for brine shrimp.  I have a Kasa power strip and I want a USB-powered lamp but I need one that will heat up the hatchery a bit (not just a book light, they don't get hot).  Not sure such a thing exists...I see you have a clip-on light on yours - does it heat your hatchery too?  

I don't think you can do what you want because USB is 5 volts and that won't generate any real heat with light.  Otherwise the rechargeable lighters would be much brighter.

[Odd Duck]

On 7/8/2024 at 11:03 AM, Jeff said:

I wanna build your siphon @AllFishNoBrakes  what is this part called, so I  can buy it? 

Tell me more about your mixing barrel @Odd Duck  I have two empty Brute cans that I was gonna use for saltwater. But SW has been scrapped. 
 

Whst do you use it for? I'd love to use mine for FW for something useful. 

I have the 32 gallon Brute barrels on the little dollies that fit the cans.  The wheels on the dollies are terrible for getting pet hair and various assorted fuzz in the races, but the dollies are easily replaced when the barrels are empty.  I rarely use the lids.  I mix very hard, very high pH, very warm this time of year, Texas tap water with my RO water.  I also have an elevated 32 gallon Brute barrel (no dolly of course, pic below of tubing site glass on the elevated barrel) for my RO water to go in.  This has a float shut off from the RO unit.  It’s set up essentially the same as when we first set it up for RO back in our reefkeeping days in the mid 90’s to early 2000’s.  We had reefs before then but didn’t have RO before that.

I gravity flow the RO into a rolling barrel at whatever ratio is appropriate for the tanks I’m doing changes on.  I never intentionally fill it over about 27 gallons (more sloshes too much).  There are lines scribed in the inside of the rolling barrel every 5 gallons so I can adjust RO to tap ratios as needed for the different tanks.  I measured 1 gallon x 5 into a translucent 5 gallon jug to get a reasonably accurate, repeatable 5 gallons where I could see it, poured that into the barrel, scribed a line, repeat x 5 total with just an eyeball on about 2 more gallons.  It doesn’t really need to be super precise but I knew I’d be using this barrel for years, and I didn’t set it up right the first time we did this in the 90’s, soooo . . . .

To recap: Straight RO stored higher than the rolling barrels on their dollies, rolling barrels take up too much room in the fishroom (I really only need one mixer since I don’t do salt anymore) but are very easily rolled around empty, not as easy when filled but not terrible, either.  Big powerhead to pump from the mixing barrel into the assorted tanks.  Valve and diverter need replacing for better versatility for various sized tanks.

What @TOtrees mentioned about restricting outflow is safe, never restrict inflow.  I had a very old powerhead (like 20 years old{?} but with only intermittent usage) that I used as my first pump in this set up when I started back into fish about 4 years ago.  It started to get stubborn about starting and a bit noisy in use even after cleaning, so I finally replaced it a couple years ago.  This one is going strong so far with heavy, but still intermittent use.  I don’t always have water mixing or waiting to be used.  😆 😉 

 

[Jeff]

Thanks for that @Odd Duck why do you a) use RO water? I have high Ph and hard water too. And b) why do you mix RO with your tap?

[Odd Duck]

On 7/10/2024 at 8:07 PM, Jeff said:

Thanks for that @Odd Duck why do you a) use RO water? I have high Ph and hard water too. And b) why do you mix RO with your tap?

Because I have some species that do better with water that isn’t liquid rock and pH 8.4-8.6 from the tap.  I have 26 tanks with a variety of species and I’m looking to get some back in and probably try some new ones that prefer softer water.

[Odd Duck]

On 7/10/2024 at 8:07 PM, Jeff said:

Thanks for that @Odd Duck why do you a) use RO water? I have high Ph and hard water too. And b) why do you mix RO with your tap?

I was really tired last night and gave a very incomplete answer.  I mix different ratios depending on the species in any specific tank or group of tanks.  I don’t use straight tap or straight RO in any tank.  Everything is a mix between the 2 so I don’t have to remineralize the RO but I can keep a wider range of species.  Why should I buy remineralizer powder when it flows right out of my tap?  😝  Lots of people keep African cichlids around here since our tap is so hard, but although they’re beautiful outside they aren’t “beautiful” inside and don’t appeal to me as a fishkeeper.  I’ve gone soft in my old age.  Even listen to some easy listening rock now and then (it’s a bit embarrassing, honestly).  😆 🤣