#NermWeek Re-Written Directions Competition

[Torrey]

Hello Fellow Nerms!  EDIT: ENTRIES ARE NOW CLOSED AS IT IS NOON PACIFIC ON SATURDAY!

<ANY ENTRIES AFTER THE "CLOSED" SIGN WILL BE PURELY FOR NERM ENJOYMENT>

***Upcoming for Nerm Week 2022 (July 10-16)***

Re-Written Directions Competition

New to the hobby, or old timers of multiple decades, here's your opportunity to rewrite the directions to replace your most vexing "How to" manual!

Guidelines:

1. Use an easy to read font/font size, that will engage the reader. (10 points)

2. You can include photos of the original directions if you would like, for a comparison (not required, but appreciated)

3. Header (product name) (20 points)

• Body (directions, step-by-step so a brand new person can successfully use the product) (20 points)
• Humor is appreciated, but not required
• Clear and easy to read font
• Accompanying diagrams or photographs if they improve user experience 

4. At the bottom, a brief bio (how long in the hobby, special interests, why you chose to rewrite these directions, or 3 other sentences of information you would like to share)

5. Potential for extra points: Include the biggest mistake you have made trying to follow the original set of directions, leading to your insights on why it should be re-written

There will be 3 Certificates to the highest point earners!

Reaction Points System:

"Thanks" = 4 points

"Love" = 3 points

"Laugh" = 2 points

"Like" = 1 points

Reaction points will be calculated noon Pacific on Saturday 16th June, and the winner (plus 2 runner ups) will be posted @ 4 pm Pacific.

I will write up an example for in here, obviously I am not competing as that would not be ethical.😁

Essentially, look at the directions that irk you the most in the hobby, that you feel leave the most room for errors by the user, and give your communication skills a tune-up by writing a more user friendly model!

Mostly, Have fun!

How to Vote

Please see the guidelines! If an entry has an easy for you to read font, included the name of the product in a defined header, and the body (directions) are easy for you to follow, give that entry a 😍 react (3 points)

If 2 of the 3 criteria are met, give the entry a hearty Nerm laugh! (2 points)

If all criteria are met, and you think it's Blue Ribbon Worthy, give them the trophy react! (4 points)

I will be in at noon Pacific on Saturday to tally the points, based on reactions. The earlier directions are posted, the more time they have for reactions, so the early Nerms get the [black] worms. 

 

Edited July 16, 2022 by Torrey
Contest now closed

[AquaHobbyist123]

interesting, maybe I'll do one sometime.

[Torrey]

@nabokovfan87 I believe you asked for an example?

Also, for anyone else needing a little inspiration to get started:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1laq4VCGJBmU9d2eiml4Mzhj550VGFcIJRtGTh7mzTAM/edit?usp=sharing 

 

Rewritten Directions

Date: 2022/07/10

API Master Test Kit

TIPS FOR SUCCESS:

1. Invert /shake all reagent bottles before using to ensure even distribution of reagent in the solution. Hold test reagent bottles upside down, completely vertical when adding drops. Double check expiration date.

2. Ensure all test tubes are cleaned, and then rinsed in RO or distilled water to improve accuracy of test.

3. Fill test tubes so the top of the meniscus (top edge of water) is at the top of the white API line, and the bottom of the meniscus is at the bottom of the white line

4. Do not store test tubes with caps on to reduce risk of caps leaking

5. Wear a mask and goggles, as well as gloves. Some reagents are caustic.

6. If possible, place test tubes in a test tube rack, and fill all test tubes with 5 mL tank water before starting to test to reduce risk of user error.

7. Store reagents in a cool, dry place with lids tightly capped. Keep out of sunlight.

pH TEST

• Why test pH? 

  • pH tests the number of hydrogen ion concentration in moles/liter

  • It literally measures the hydrogen potential in water

  • Neutral pH is 7

  • Water with a pH greater than 7 is “alkaline”, has less hydrogen ions, and offers less protection against ammonia

  • Water with a pH less than 7 is acidic, has more hydrogen ions, and provides a greater buffer against ammonia

• Testing tips

The minimum pH reading is 6.0 pH, and the maximum reading is 7.6 pH. This test can not offer pH readings below 6.0. If the reading for your tank reads yellow (6.0 pH) or if you are breeding blackwater/ high tannin fish, additional math will be required to identify the correct pH for your tank (or buy a pH meter for accurate results)

Directions

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water (line on API test tube)

2. Holding pH Test Solution Bottle upside down and completely vertical add 3 drops of reagent to test tube.

3. Cap the test tube securely and invert several times until reagent is fully mixed into the water in the test tube.

4. Read the results by comparing the solution to the pH color chart in a well lit room. If using a test tube rack, a pure white light under the test tube makes it easier to read. If necessary, take a picture of the test tube next to the pH color chart, and convert the picture to grayscale to make it easier to read. The color on the pH color chart closest to the color of the test tube contents is the pH reading.

Know what pH your fish were bred in, if possible. Some fish eggs require lower pH to successfully hatch. Other than breeding, most fish can acclimate to a wide range of pH, as long as conditions are kept stable and transitions are slow.

HIGH RANGE pH TEST

• Why test with high pH kit?

  • This kit tests pH between 7.4 pH and 8.8 pH. If your standard pH test reads 7.2 pH or higher (more blue), use this test kit to get an accurate pH measurement. Certain fish, like African Cichlids and many livebearers, as well as snails and many shrimp, need more alkaline water to thrive. If KH is low, measure pH regularly as low KH can lead to pH swings.

• Testing tips

  • Under extreme water conditions, measurements below 7.4 pH and above 8.8 pH will still only read as 7.4 pH (lowest) and 8.8 pH (highest). If lower pH doesn;t show up on the regular pH test kit either (lower than 6.0 pH) or is reading 8.8 pH on this test, it is wise to invest in a pH meter which can be calibrated. 

Directions

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water.

2. Holding High pH Range reagent upside down and completely vertical, add 5 drops of reagent to test tube.

3. Cap the test tube & invert test tube several times to ensure reagent is completely mixed in solution with the tank water.

4. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the High pH Color Chart.

   1. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube.

   2. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct pH.

 

AMMONIA TEST

• Why test for ammonia?

  • Fish continually release ammonia (NH3) into the aquarium via gills, urine and solid waste. Ammonia is a natural by-product of healthy, properly fed fish. Plants will utilize the ammonia for growth, and beneficial bacteria will convert ammonia into nitrites. If there are more fish (bioload) than the plants and bacteria can handle, ammonia will be left in the water column and burn fish gills, snails, and shrimp.

  • Uneaten food and decaying plant leaves can also contribute to ammonia in the tank. A deceased wet pet can cause an ammonia spike.

  • Some antibiotics can negatively impact the beneficial bacteria.

  • New tanks need to have time to establish a healthy beneficial bacteria colony, and testing for the presence of ammonia allows new and experienced hobbyists alike to follow the establishment of the nitrogen cycle. 

• Testing tips

  • This salicylate-based ammonia test kit reads the total ammonia level in parts per million (ppm) [equivalent to milligrams per liter (mg/L)] from 0.0 ppm to 8.0 ppm (mg/L).

  • Some users claim to find more accurate test results if they shake both reagent bottles before adding drops to the test tube.

  • Double check to ensure the bottle marked TEST SOLUTION #1 is added first, and TEST SOLUTION #2 IS ADDED SECOND.

Directions:

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water (to the white API line on API test tubes)

2. Holding reagent bottle #1 completely vertical, upside down add 8 drops from the solution #1 bottle.

3. Holding reagent bottle #2 completely vertical, upside down add 8 drops from the solution #2 bottle.

4. Cap the test tube and shake vigorously for 5 seconds.

5. WAIT 5 MINUTES FOR COLOR TO FULLY DEVELOP.

6. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the Ammonia Color Chart.

   1. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube.

   2. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct ammonia level.

Reducing Ammonia Levels

As mentioned in “Why Test”, ammonia harms our wet pets. If ammonia is detected in a tank with wet pets, the ammonia needs to be removed. Products like Prime™ and AMMO LOCK™ can be used to lock the ammonia up for up to 24 hours, and a water change can reduce the amount of ammonia in the tank, protecting our wet pets. If there are no wet pets in the tank, plants and beneficial bacteria will utilize the ammonia, and a water change will only be necessary to protect the newly established beneficial bacteria if ammonia levels reach 2.0 ppm (mg/L). If ammonia hits 4.0 ppm in a newly cycled tank with no wet pets, do a 50% water change. If ammonia tests at 8.0 ppm, do multiple 50% water changes to bring it back under 2.0 ppm, and expect the nitrogen cycle to have stalled. Be sure to treat the tap water to remove chlorine/chloramine at all water changes.

Many aquarists who keep testing positive for ammonia in their tanks have discovered they weren’t adequately treating their tap water, or their well has been contaminated by fertilizer run-off.

RESOURCES TO EXPLAIN AMMONIA

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/nitrogen-cycle 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWoiCqCvJco 

NITRITE TEST

• Why test for Nitrites?

  • Nitrite (NO2-) is a byproduct from beneficial bacteria that consume ammonia. 

  • Additional families of bacteria will break the nitrites down into nitrates (NO3-) (covered in next section).

  • Nitrite is toxic to all of our wet pets. Even trace levels can lead to stunted growth, or in sensitive fish and shrimp lead to a quick death. Any detectable levels of nitrites with any wet pets in the tank will need a prompt water change.

  • Nitrite in the tank before we add our wet pets is a healthy indicator that our beneficial bacteria are starting to get established, and should be celebrated!

• Testing tips

  • This test kit reads total nitrite (NO3-) in parts per million (ppm) which are equivalent to mg/L.

  • To ensure test accuracy, invert the reagent bottle several times before adding drops to the test tube.

Directions:

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL of water to be tested.

2. Holding reagent bottle upside down and completely vertical to ensure conformity of drops, add 5 drops of Nitrite Test Solution (Nitrite Test Reagent).

3. Cap the test tube and shake vigorously for 5 seconds.

4. Wait 5 minutes for color to develop.

5. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the Nitrite Color Chart.

   1. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube.

   2. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct ammonia level.

Reducing Aquarium Nitrite Levels

If there are no wet pets in the tank, a water change is only necessary to protect the beneficial bacteria above 2.0 ppm. Readings between 2.0 ppm and 4.0 ppm need a 50% water change. Readings above 4.0 ppm need multiple 50% water changes, to get the total nitrites back under 2.0 ppm.

IF THERE ARE WET PETS IN THE TANK no amount of nitrite is safe. Do multiple water changes to bring the nitrite levels down under 0.25 ppm. 

Identify what is causing the high nitrites (or the nitrites will go right back up):

Are there nitrites in the tap water? A different water source may be needed.

Are nitrites due to overfeeding? Feed less food at a time, and possibly feed more often. Remove food left behind after an hour.

Has the beneficial bacteria colony been harmed with medicine? too aggressive of a cleaning? Feed lightly and clean up residual food for a couple of weeks, then gradually increase the amount of food.

Are there decaying plants beyond the capability of your clean up crew? Trim back melt, evaluate clean up crew.

None of the above? Look for a deceased animal hidden in the tank.

NITRATE TEST

• Why test for nitrates?

  • Nitrate (NO3-) is the natural byproduct of a healthy biological filter.

  • Nitrate (NO3-) is a necessary component for healthy plant growth.

  • Different fish have different sensitivities to nitrates, even within a species. Some fish are so sensitive to nitrates, low levels of nitrates can compromise their immune system making them vulnerable to opportunistic infections. High nitrates will stunt growth in fry.

  • Snails and shrimp, and other inverts can be more sensitive to nitrates than fish. If snails or shrimp keep trying to escape the tank, and the only thing registering is nitrates, the nitrates are too high for those individuals.

  • Some fish have an incredibly high threshold for nitrates, and will seem fine in high nitrates for a very long time. The higher nitrates may be the contributor to shorter lifespans.

  • It is necessary to test source water for nitrates, as nitrates are frequently in the water supply in rural/mixed use areas. Nitrates can fluctuate in source water, depending on the treatment facility, rains, and run off.

• Testing tips

  • This test reads total nitrate (NO3-) in parts per million (ppm) which is the equivalent of mg/L.

  • The reagents for nitrates are extremely finicky. If you do not shake the reagent bottles extremely well, you will get false readings.

Directions:

To keep these directions memorable, and to reduce the risk of user error, we are including the directions from our O-chem instructor…

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL water.

2. Shake reagent #1 bottle until arm feels like it is about to fall off. 

3. Holding bottle upside down & completely vertical, add 10 drops of Nitrate Test Solution #1 to the 5 mL of water in the test tube. (Yes, I know the directions don't say you have to shake the first bottle. I tell you to shake the first to make sure you don't forget to shake the second).

4.  Now, after adding 10 drops from the first reagent, cap and shake your test tube until reagent is fully dissolved in test water. 

5. Your lab partner should be vigorously shaking the second reagent bottle (labeled Nitrate Test Solution #2) until their arm *does* fall off. Then vigorously shake the bottle for 30 more seconds. (This is critically important for accurate results).

6. Now, add 10 drops from reagent #2 while holding the Nitrate Test Solution #2 upside down and completely vertical. 

7. Cap your test tube with the better silicone caps, not the regular test tube caps (nitrate solutions are both caustic! 

8. Wrap capped test tube in a paper towel. Shake your test tube with whichever arm didn't fall off for 60 seconds, and then read the results  5 minutes later. 

“I want to know, is our tap water safe to drink?”

Math

• Water that exceeds the test parameters 

  • It is possible to test RO or distilled water to establish the baseline

  • If RO water is 7.0 pH, it can be mixed 50/50 with tank water that reads below the 6.0 pH (or above the 8.8 pH) and then 5 mL of the 50/50 water can be tested

  • The logarithm can then be computed once the pH registers above 6.0 pH (or below 8.8 pH)

  • To prevent brain drain from ruining the hobby, those of us who struggle with higher level math may be happier buying a pH meter.

Date: 2022/07/10

Science

• Aquarium keeping really is about water chemistry. Even if we don’t have a clue what we are doing, and failed chemistry in school, keeping a healthy aquarium is about practical, hands wet, water chemistry.

  • Healthy plants are the result of healthy water chemistry, even if we don’t have a test yet to measure/identify what is out of balance.

  • It is easier to have healthy wet pets, if we first establish healthy plants.

  • Fish and plants are both a lot more forgiving than we give them credit for.

  • No amount of testing can replace good, old fashioned, observation.

  • A combination of testing, documentation of observations, and quarterly reviews (hint: excuse to take pictures) will help us as hobbyists start identifying trends and correlations in our tanks.

Be Nermy,

and

HAVE FUN!

 

Addendums:

Tank Maintenance Spreadsheet

Figure 1. Nutrient availability in relation to pH. The thicker the bar the more available the nutrient.

Figure 2. Mulder’s chart of antagonistic (solid lines) and synergistic (dashed lines) elements.

(Figure 1 & 2 Courtesy of MSU)

The Fish Keeper's Guide to pH, GH, and KH | Water Chemistry 101 –

 

Feel Free to Make a Copy of These Directions if They Help You!

[nabokovfan87]

Already at #2 I don't have ANY way to test anything. 😂

Awesome example.  Thank you!

 

I love this. So cool to be able to understand the why not just the how.

[Torrey]

On 7/10/2022 at 12:10 AM, nabokovfan87 said:

Already at #2 I don't have ANY way to test anything. 😂

Awesome example.  Thank you!

 

I love this. So cool to be able to understand the why not just the how.

ORD and thank you!!!

I can remember things better, if I understand the why. I'm glad to not be alone!

@nabokovfan87 if there's no RO or distilled water to rinse test tubes, they can be dunked in the tank a few times to eliminate the risk of sink water fouling the results.

[Cinnebuns]

@Torrey does it have to be product instructions? I just responded to a post that made me inspired to make a more complete rewriting of "1" per gallon" rule. 

[nabokovfan87]

For the sake of my own sanity and not doing conversions literally *EVERY TIME* I have to dose salt......



Looking at dosage for salt on the ACO blog:
Level 1: A hair under 1/4 cup per 10G
Level 2: A hair under 1/3 cup per 10G
Level 3: 1/2 cup per 10G

On his salt dosage video when treating for ich in the 800G Cory mentioned that at the store they use the "level 3" treatment as standard (1 cup per 20G).
Another way to make this really easy is to use grams. It can be measured out on a coffee scale, but everyone's tank height is going to slightly alter the salinity levels you're dosing to.  For the sake of making it simple, and easy to do quickly, this is what I've always used and what always works for me.  Literally this week, dosed my tank with salt, had to come down the hallway to ask someone to convert the salt amount from tbsp to cups because I had wet hands.  I had a 1/3-cup measure in my fish bin for dosing salt, now I know why.

[KimberlyDade]

On 7/10/2022 at 11:36 AM, Torrey said:

@nabokovfan87 I believe you asked for an example?

Also, for anyone else needing a little inspiration to get started:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1laq4VCGJBmU9d2eiml4Mzhj550VGFcIJRtGTh7mzTAM/edit?usp=sharing 

 

Rewritten Directions

Date: 2022/07/10

API Master Test Kit

TIPS FOR SUCCESS:

1. Invert /shake all reagent bottles before using to ensure even distribution of reagent in the solution. Hold test reagent bottles upside down, completely vertical when adding drops. Double check expiration date.

2. Ensure all test tubes are cleaned, and then rinsed in RO or distilled water to improve accuracy of test.

3. Fill test tubes so the top of the meniscus (top edge of water) is at the top of the white API line, and the bottom of the meniscus is at the bottom of the white line

4. Do not store test tubes with caps on to reduce risk of caps leaking

5. Wear a mask and goggles, as well as gloves. Some reagents are caustic.

6. If possible, place test tubes in a test tube rack, and fill all test tubes with 5 mL tank water before starting to test to reduce risk of user error.

7. Store reagents in a cool, dry place with lids tightly capped. Keep out of sunlight.

pH TEST

• Why test pH? 

  • pH tests the number of hydrogen ion concentration in moles/liter

  • It literally measures the hydrogen potential in water

  • Neutral pH is 7

  • Water with a pH greater than 7 is “alkaline”, has less hydrogen ions, and offers less protection against ammonia

  • Water with a pH less than 7 is acidic, has more hydrogen ions, and provides a greater buffer against ammonia

• Testing tips

The minimum pH reading is 6.0 pH, and the maximum reading is 7.6 pH. This test can not offer pH readings below 6.0. If the reading for your tank reads yellow (6.0 pH) or if you are breeding blackwater/ high tannin fish, additional math will be required to identify the correct pH for your tank (or buy a pH meter for accurate results)

Directions

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water (line on API test tube)

2. Holding pH Test Solution Bottle upside down and completely vertical add 3 drops of reagent to test tube.

3. Cap the test tube securely and invert several times until reagent is fully mixed into the water in the test tube.

4. Read the results by comparing the solution to the pH color chart in a well lit room. If using a test tube rack, a pure white light under the test tube makes it easier to read. If necessary, take a picture of the test tube next to the pH color chart, and convert the picture to grayscale to make it easier to read. The color on the pH color chart closest to the color of the test tube contents is the pH reading.

Know what pH your fish were bred in, if possible. Some fish eggs require lower pH to successfully hatch. Other than breeding, most fish can acclimate to a wide range of pH, as long as conditions are kept stable and transitions are slow.

HIGH RANGE pH TEST

• Why test with high pH kit?

  • This kit tests pH between 7.4 pH and 8.8 pH. If your standard pH test reads 7.2 pH or higher (more blue), use this test kit to get an accurate pH measurement. Certain fish, like African Cichlids and many livebearers, as well as snails and many shrimp, need more alkaline water to thrive. If KH is low, measure pH regularly as low KH can lead to pH swings.

• Testing tips

  • Under extreme water conditions, measurements below 7.4 pH and above 8.8 pH will still only read as 7.4 pH (lowest) and 8.8 pH (highest). If lower pH doesn;t show up on the regular pH test kit either (lower than 6.0 pH) or is reading 8.8 pH on this test, it is wise to invest in a pH meter which can be calibrated. 

Directions

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water.

2. Holding High pH Range reagent upside down and completely vertical, add 5 drops of reagent to test tube.

3. Cap the test tube & invert test tube several times to ensure reagent is completely mixed in solution with the tank water.

4. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the High pH Color Chart.

   1. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube.

   2. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct pH.

 

AMMONIA TEST

• Why test for ammonia?

  • Fish continually release ammonia (NH3) into the aquarium via gills, urine and solid waste. Ammonia is a natural by-product of healthy, properly fed fish. Plants will utilize the ammonia for growth, and beneficial bacteria will convert ammonia into nitrites. If there are more fish (bioload) than the plants and bacteria can handle, ammonia will be left in the water column and burn fish gills, snails, and shrimp.

  • Uneaten food and decaying plant leaves can also contribute to ammonia in the tank. A deceased wet pet can cause an ammonia spike.

  • Some antibiotics can negatively impact the beneficial bacteria.

  • New tanks need to have time to establish a healthy beneficial bacteria colony, and testing for the presence of ammonia allows new and experienced hobbyists alike to follow the establishment of the nitrogen cycle. 

• Testing tips

  • This salicylate-based ammonia test kit reads the total ammonia level in parts per million (ppm) [equivalent to milligrams per liter (mg/L)] from 0.0 ppm to 8.0 ppm (mg/L).

  • Some users claim to find more accurate test results if they shake both reagent bottles before adding drops to the test tube.

  • Double check to ensure the bottle marked TEST SOLUTION #1 is added first, and TEST SOLUTION #2 IS ADDED SECOND.

Directions:

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL tank water (to the white API line on API test tubes)

2. Holding reagent bottle #1 completely vertical, upside down add 8 drops from the solution #1 bottle.

3. Holding reagent bottle #2 completely vertical, upside down add 8 drops from the solution #2 bottle.

4. Cap the test tube and shake vigorously for 5 seconds.

5. WAIT 5 MINUTES FOR COLOR TO FULLY DEVELOP.

6. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the Ammonia Color Chart.

   1. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube.

   2. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct ammonia level.

Reducing Ammonia Levels

As mentioned in “Why Test”, ammonia harms our wet pets. If ammonia is detected in a tank with wet pets, the ammonia needs to be removed. Products like Prime™ and AMMO LOCK™ can be used to lock the ammonia up for up to 24 hours, and a water change can reduce the amount of ammonia in the tank, protecting our wet pets. If there are no wet pets in the tank, plants and beneficial bacteria will utilize the ammonia, and a water change will only be necessary to protect the newly established beneficial bacteria if ammonia levels reach 2.0 ppm (mg/L). If ammonia hits 4.0 ppm in a newly cycled tank with no wet pets, do a 50% water change. If ammonia tests at 8.0 ppm, do multiple 50% water changes to bring it back under 2.0 ppm, and expect the nitrogen cycle to have stalled. Be sure to treat the tap water to remove chlorine/chloramine at all water changes.

Many aquarists who keep testing positive for ammonia in their tanks have discovered they weren’t adequately treating their tap water, or their well has been contaminated by fertilizer run-off.

RESOURCES TO EXPLAIN AMMONIA

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/nitrogen-cycle 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWoiCqCvJco 

NITRITE TEST

• Why test for Nitrites?

  • Nitrite (NO2-) is a byproduct from beneficial bacteria that consume ammonia. 

  • Additional families of bacteria will break the nitrites down into nitrates (NO3-) (covered in next section).

  • Nitrite is toxic to all of our wet pets. Even trace levels can lead to stunted growth, or in sensitive fish and shrimp lead to a quick death. Any detectable levels of nitrites with any wet pets in the tank will need a prompt water change.

  • Nitrite in the tank before we add our wet pets is a healthy indicator that our beneficial bacteria are starting to get established, and should be celebrated!

• Testing tips

  • This test kit reads total nitrite (NO3-) in parts per million (ppm) which are equivalent to mg/L.

  • To ensure test accuracy, invert the reagent bottle several times before adding drops to the test tube.

Directions:

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL of water to be tested.

2. Holding reagent bottle upside down and completely vertical to ensure conformity of drops, add 5 drops of Nitrite Test Solution (Nitrite Test Reagent).

3. Cap the test tube and shake vigorously for 5 seconds.

4. Wait 5 minutes for color to develop.

5. Read the results by holding the test tube against the white section next to the Nitrite Color Chart.

   1. To make it easier to read the colors, place a pen light or small white light against the bottom of the test tube.

   2. Can place test tube in test tube rack, with a light underneath, and take a picture of the test tube against the color chart. Convert image to grayscale to make it easier to read the correct ammonia level.

Reducing Aquarium Nitrite Levels

If there are no wet pets in the tank, a water change is only necessary to protect the beneficial bacteria above 2.0 ppm. Readings between 2.0 ppm and 4.0 ppm need a 50% water change. Readings above 4.0 ppm need multiple 50% water changes, to get the total nitrites back under 2.0 ppm.

IF THERE ARE WET PETS IN THE TANK no amount of nitrite is safe. Do multiple water changes to bring the nitrite levels down under 0.25 ppm. 

Identify what is causing the high nitrites (or the nitrites will go right back up):

Are there nitrites in the tap water? A different water source may be needed.

Are nitrites due to overfeeding? Feed less food at a time, and possibly feed more often. Remove food left behind after an hour.

Has the beneficial bacteria colony been harmed with medicine? too aggressive of a cleaning? Feed lightly and clean up residual food for a couple of weeks, then gradually increase the amount of food.

Are there decaying plants beyond the capability of your clean up crew? Trim back melt, evaluate clean up crew.

None of the above? Look for a deceased animal hidden in the tank.

NITRATE TEST

• Why test for nitrates?

  • Nitrate (NO3-) is the natural byproduct of a healthy biological filter.

  • Nitrate (NO3-) is a necessary component for healthy plant growth.

  • Different fish have different sensitivities to nitrates, even within a species. Some fish are so sensitive to nitrates, low levels of nitrates can compromise their immune system making them vulnerable to opportunistic infections. High nitrates will stunt growth in fry.

  • Snails and shrimp, and other inverts can be more sensitive to nitrates than fish. If snails or shrimp keep trying to escape the tank, and the only thing registering is nitrates, the nitrates are too high for those individuals.

  • Some fish have an incredibly high threshold for nitrates, and will seem fine in high nitrates for a very long time. The higher nitrates may be the contributor to shorter lifespans.

  • It is necessary to test source water for nitrates, as nitrates are frequently in the water supply in rural/mixed use areas. Nitrates can fluctuate in source water, depending on the treatment facility, rains, and run off.

• Testing tips

  • This test reads total nitrate (NO3-) in parts per million (ppm) which is the equivalent of mg/L.

  • The reagents for nitrates are extremely finicky. If you do not shake the reagent bottles extremely well, you will get false readings.

Directions:

To keep these directions memorable, and to reduce the risk of user error, we are including the directions from our O-chem instructor…

1. Fill a clean test tube with 5 mL water.

2. Shake reagent #1 bottle until arm feels like it is about to fall off. 

3. Holding bottle upside down & completely vertical, add 10 drops of Nitrate Test Solution #1 to the 5 mL of water in the test tube. (Yes, I know the directions don't say you have to shake the first bottle. I tell you to shake the first to make sure you don't forget to shake the second).

4.  Now, after adding 10 drops from the first reagent, cap and shake your test tube until reagent is fully dissolved in test water. 

5. Your lab partner should be vigorously shaking the second reagent bottle (labeled Nitrate Test Solution #2) until their arm *does* fall off. Then vigorously shake the bottle for 30 more seconds. (This is critically important for accurate results).

6. Now, add 10 drops from reagent #2 while holding the Nitrate Test Solution #2 upside down and completely vertical. 

7. Cap your test tube with the better silicone caps, not the regular test tube caps (nitrate solutions are both caustic! 

8. Wrap capped test tube in a paper towel. Shake your test tube with whichever arm didn't fall off for 60 seconds, and then read the results  5 minutes later. 

“I want to know, is our tap water safe to drink?”

Math

• Water that exceeds the test parameters 

  • It is possible to test RO or distilled water to establish the baseline

  • If RO water is 7.0 pH, it can be mixed 50/50 with tank water that reads below the 6.0 pH (or above the 8.8 pH) and then 5 mL of the 50/50 water can be tested

  • The logarithm can then be computed once the pH registers above 6.0 pH (or below 8.8 pH)

  • To prevent brain drain from ruining the hobby, those of us who struggle with higher level math may be happier buying a pH meter.

Date: 2022/07/10

Science

• Aquarium keeping really is about water chemistry. Even if we don’t have a clue what we are doing, and failed chemistry in school, keeping a healthy aquarium is about practical, hands wet, water chemistry.

  • Healthy plants are the result of healthy water chemistry, even if we don’t have a test yet to measure/identify what is out of balance.

  • It is easier to have healthy wet pets, if we first establish healthy plants.

  • Fish and plants are both a lot more forgiving than we give them credit for.

  • No amount of testing can replace good, old fashioned, observation.

  • A combination of testing, documentation of observations, and quarterly reviews (hint: excuse to take pictures) will help us as hobbyists start identifying trends and correlations in our tanks.

Be Nermy,

and

HAVE FUN!

 

Addendums:

Tank Maintenance Spreadsheet

Figure 1. Nutrient availability in relation to pH. The thicker the bar the more available the nutrient.

Figure 2. Mulder’s chart of antagonistic (solid lines) and synergistic (dashed lines) elements.

(Figure 1 & 2 Courtesy of MSU)

The Fish Keeper's Guide to pH, GH, and KH | Water Chemistry 101 –

 

Feel Free to Make a Copy of These Directions if They Help You!

Thank you, this is very helpful for me. I have recently bought a new aquarium and I don't have enough information on the water of the aquarium and in your post, I found all the information I need to build my own aquarium. I will do it a little later because recently I found my question answer over https://edubirdie.net/blog/is-edubirdie-legal-or-cheating here and now I am gonna hire an essay writer from Edubirdie. After completing my assignment, I will make my aquarium. Right now, I am saving your post.

Thank you, this is very helpful for me. :)

Edited July 25, 2022 by KimberlyDade

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

Product: breeder box

Daily maintenance process for a breeder box full of newborn snails

Materials:

• Turkey baster

• Small white dish

• Larger dish or bucket

• Magnifying glass

• Bright flashlight

• Spoon

Cleaning process:

1. Remove lid from breeder box. Inspect lid for snail hitchhikers and return to box if found. Set lid aside.

2. Use baster to siphon uneaten food and waste from breeder box.

3. Empty baster into white dish.

4. Use magnifying glass and flashlight to check for snails within the removed debris. If a snail is found, gently remove from dish with a spoon and return to breeder box.

5. Pour contents of white dish into larger dish or bucket to be discarded.

6. Repeat process until breeder box is clean.

Welfare check:

7. Inspect breeder box for inactive snails.  Remove these snails with turkey baster or spoon and transfer to white dish. 

8. Watch dish for activity using magnifying glass and flashlight. If no activity within 15-30 minutes, stir contents with spoon, then let dish sit. Return to check in another 15-30 minutes to see if snails have traveled. Repeat process as desired until snail status can be determined.

9. Return active snails to breeder box.

Feeding and cleanup:

10. Add fresh food to breeder box.

11. Replace breeder box lid. Close lid on the tank.

12. Empty the dishes and/or bucket. (Tip: This liquid is a great fertilizer for the garden!)

13. Declutter work area to keep the peace with the non-NERMs in the household.

14. Repeat process as desired, either daily or twice a day.

Other recommendations:

Perform daily water tests to ensure adequate water quality. Perform water change if necessary.

Bio that’s not so brief:

My name is Chick-in-of-TheSea because I got certified in scuba diving in 2010. I have over 115 dives, and I hold 5 certifications: Open Water, Advanced Open Water, Rescue, Cavern, and CPR/First Aid. 

My dad had a 10-gallon fish tank when I was 5, and when I got a little older, I was allowed to have a 10-gallon in my bedroom. My first fish was a painted Indian glass fish. 

When I was 12, we saw a newspaper ad where someone was selling a larger hexagonal tank for cheap, and we transported the tank and those fish back home and set it up. I remember there were powder blue gouramis in there, kuhlii loaches, and a western newt (the escape artist). 

After I graduated college, I got my own apartment and started a cichlid tank. Then I moved, transporting cichlids from PA to FL, and kept it going. I lived with my brother, and I had the 29 gallon in my room, and he started a 55 gallon in his. I became an accidental cichlid breeder because, well, the cichlids were calling the shots on that one. Together, my brother and I figured out how to hatch brine shrimp eggs in a mason jar with an airstone and some salt, based on some package directions, and we fed the fry. He raised up convict fry, and I raised up mbuna fry. We moved again, a few times, so our cichlids were adopted out to local hobbyists. 

A few moves (and years) later, I bought a house and I set up a little 10 gallon with a few swordtails. Next thing you know, my friend got in trouble with his landlord because he had a fish tank set up in his apartment and that was against the rules. And so, I became the adoptive parent of pristella tetras. Tank became overstocked at that point, so I dusted off the ol’ 29 gallon and here we are, only this time, I’m apparently also a snail hatcher (not even a snail breeder, because I bought 1 mystery snail and it was holding onto fertilized eggs for months, then began laying them everywhere.)

Yrs in hobby: 36

 

I chose to write these directions because I tried a few methods, and felt that this way is the safest method for the snails.  

The biggest mistake I made was using an irrigation syringe instead of a turkey baster. Because snails start off approx. sesame-seed sized, they can be sucked up into the syringe. However, the syringe has moving parts, hence, the snail can become lodged between the tubes.

 

Edited July 14, 2022 by Chick-In-Of-TheSea
To fix wonky formatting

[Guppysnail]

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea GREAT JOB!  These are things everyone asks about the first time they hatch mystery snails. You have solved that mystery for them 🤗. Very nicely done. 

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 7/15/2022 at 11:17 AM, Guppysnail said:

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea GREAT JOB!  These are things everyone asks about the first time they hatch mystery snails. You have solved that mystery for them 🤗. Very nicely done. 

Couldn’t have done it without your guidance! You remember the first thing I did was panic when I saw the eggs! 😂

[Torrey]

On 7/10/2022 at 3:22 PM, Cinnebuns said:

@Torrey does it have to be product instructions? I just responded to a post that made me inspired to make a more complete rewriting of "1" per gallon" rule. 

It does not have to be re-writing of product directions! Any directions that can be written out (nitrogen cycle, how to clean an aquarium, how to dose salt, how to clean plants with RR from @Guppysnail and dasaltmelosguy, literally anything in the hobby, even how to level a stand, is fair game!)

On 7/14/2022 at 11:06 AM, Chick-In-Of-TheSea said:

Declutter work area to keep the peace with the non-NERMs in the household.

Most important piece written, to keep the peace!

[Hobbit]

Easy, Sustain-able* Infusoria Culture

*in that you can sustain it over time. This product makes no claims about environmental impact.

Materials:

• Fish tank water
• Dechlorinated water
• Two jam-sized jars
• Baker's Yeast
• 1-2 Tablespoons of gravel
• Window
• Pipette or siphon

Time to useable infusoria: 2 days to 2 weeks

Instructions:

1. Add the gravel and approximately 20 granules of yeast to one of the jars.
2. Pour the fish tank water over the gravel until the jar is about 3/4 full. Swirl jar gently to allow the yeast to mix in. The water should look cloudy.
3. Place the jar near a window. Direct sunlight okay but not necessary.
4. After 2-3 days, swirl the jar. Put the jar on a dark surface and look down through the water. You should see very small specks swimming around. If you see no swimming specks at all, leave for another day or two. If in another day or two you still don't see any swimming specks, go back to step 1 and try using dirtier tank water. And don't beat yourself up--this is a trial and error process!
5. Once you see swimming specks after swirling your jar, pour 3/4 of the water into a new jar, leaving a little water at the bottom. Feed your fry out of this jar using a pipette. Always swirl the jar before feeding your fry!
6. Add approximately 20 granules of yeast to the first jar (the one with the gravel in it) and fill it back to 3/4 full with dechlorinated water.
7. Once your culture gets established, you should split the culture (steps 5 and 6) every two days. The culture will sustain itself best if you split it just before the infusoria reach maximum population.

Why this works:

• Infusoria cultures are usually boom-and-bust, meaning their population rises rapidly and then crashes rapidly when either the water gets foul or their natural predators (like cyclops) catch up in population.
• Because infusoria's natural predators are slower than they are to reproduce, we can keep the predator population in check by splitting the culture more frequently than their reproductive cycle.
• The gravel in the culture gives the infusoria as well as beneficial bacteria more surface area to live on. Including a healthy beneficial bacteria population as part of the culture keeps the water from fouling and makes this infusoria extremely safe to feed to fry, even in large amounts.
•  Infusoria prefer to live and feed on a surface rather than swimming mid-water. This is why it's essential to swirl your jar before you feed your fry: to force the infusoria into the water where you're able to slurp them out.
• This method has no foul odor, so you won't be giving your spouse/roommates/family something else to complain about!

A poem to help you remember to swirl the jar:

Sweetie Sally swirled a speck of swimming speckles
A speck of swimming speckles, Sweetie Sally swished.
If Sweetie Sally saw the swirl of swimming speckles,
Then siphon slurp those swimming speckles for your famished fish!

Brief bio:

I've been in the hobby since 2019, and my first breeding project was honey gouramis. As often happens, the project chose me rather than me choosing the project! Honey gourami fry are very hard to raise because of their extremely small size--too small for vinegar eels at first--and their refusal to eat anything that's not moving.

My attempts to learn how to culture infusoria for them were frustrating. There were a lot of different methods out there, most of which produced disgusting, smelly, rotting water even if they did eventually grow infusoria. That meant you could easily kill your fry if you fed them more than a few drops. Plus most methods called for you to set up an entirely new culture every few days or every week, which seemed like far too much work, especially for someone like me with chronic health issues.

Eventually I took inspiration from my sister's sourdough starter, which she splits every week. The rest was just a lot of research and some basic experimentation!

[Guppysnail]

@Hobbit I love that you posted this. It is fabulous. I followed your entire journey and all the variations of infusoria culturing you tried. This is so lovely and sustainable without being hard 🤗

[Torrey]

Thanks to everyone who participated, I will leave open for judging until Sunday evening!

All entries after this post are purely for NERM ENJOYMENT!

Please respond to your favorite entries so I can tally up emoji reactions tomorrow!

[Torrey]

I'm counting 3 entries. I will announce first, second and third tomorrow.

@Hobbit, @Chick-In-Of-TheSea & @nabokovfan87 thank you for such wonderful entries!!!

[Cinnebuns]

Hey!  I know this won't count as an entry but I wanted to add it anyway. This week got away from me. 

1-inch per gallon rule rewritten:

In cases where you need a quick-easy answer I suggest using aqadvisor.com but this site also has it's flaws. If you have the time, it's better to figure it out yourself using these factors. It can still help to use the site as a beginning place and adjust. 

1.  Bioload:

Some fish/inverts eat and poop more than others and therefore require more water to handle that. A classic example is a goldfish. They do enjoy their eating and popping. (Kinda like my ex-boyfriend) This is partially why goldfish have a large recommended tank. Another common example is mystery snails compared to other snails of a similar size. Knowing how much bioload a species produces is an important part of research and stocking. 

2.  Filtration:

Typically the more filtration you have the more livestock you can accommodate, to a point. When in doubt, over filtering is better than under filtering but it isn't a silver bullet. Consider adding more filtration in conjunction with other factors to allow for stocking more. 

3.  Water changes/Maintenance:

The more work you are willing to put in the more you can stock. Consider how much work you are willing to do. More livestock = more maintenance. 

4.  Swim Space:

Some species, of the same size, require more swim space than others. Generally speaking a high energy or schooling fish will require more horizontal room than a solitary, low energy fish. Consider a danio vs an otocinclus.  Some require more open horizontal space than others. 

5.  Personal Space/Line of Sight:

This one can get a little species specific but it's important to know if the species you are keeping fit into this category. Some species need their own personal space or a way to break line of sight to avoid fighting. This factor can go into how big of a space you need as well as how you arrange the decor. 

6.  Live Plants:

Live plants add a huge amount of value to any tank and honestly will be a factor in almost all of the previous categories. They help to filter and clean the water. They provide hiding places for personal space and breaking line of sight. They are just an overall amazing addition to any ecosystem.  Generally speaking, more plants means the ability to add more animals. There are exceptions as some fish cannot be kept with plants, but usually it is something that will help do part of your job for you!

Edited July 17, 2022 by Cinnebuns

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 7/16/2022 at 9:13 PM, Cinnebuns said:

Hey!  I know this won't count as an entry but I wanted to add it anyway. This week got away from me. 

1-inch per gallon rule rewritten:

In cases where you need a quick-easy answer I suggest using aqadvisor.com but this site also has it's flaws. If you have the time, it's better to figure it out yourself using these factors. It can still help to use the site as a beginning place and adjust. 

1.  Bioload:

Some fish/inverts eat and poop more than others and therefore require more water to handle that. A classic example is a goldfish. They do enjoy their eating and popping. (Kinda like my ex-boyfriend) This is partially why goldfish have a large recommended tank. Another common example is mystery snails compared to other snails of a similar size. Knowing how much bioload a species produces is an important part of research and stocking. 

2.  Filtration:

Typically the more filtration you have the more livestock you can accommodate, to a point. When in doubt, over filtering is better than under filtering but it isn't a silver bullet. Consider adding more filtration in conjunction with other factors to allow for stocking more. 

3.  Water changes/Maintenance:

The more work you are willing to put in the more you can stock. Consider how much work you are willing to do. More livestock = more maintenance. 

4.  Swim Space:

Some species, of the same size, require more swim space than others. Generally speaking a high energy or schooling fish will require more horizontal room than a solitary, low energy fish. Consider a danio vs an otocinclus.  Some require more open horizontal space than others. 

5.  Personal Space/Line of Sight:

This one can get a little species specific but it's important to know if the species you are keeping fit into this category. Some species need their own personal space or a way to break line of sight to avoid fighting. This factor can go into how big of a space you need as well as how you arrange the decor. 

6.  Live Plants:

Live plants add a huge amount of value to any tank and honestly will be a factor in almost all of the precious categories. They help to filter and clean the water. They provide hiding places for personal space and breaking line of sight. They are just an overall amazing addition to any ecosystem.  Generally speaking, more plants means the ability to add more animals. There are exceptions as some fish cannot be kept with plants, but usually it is something that will help do part of your job for you!

I really like this @Cinnebuns. Thank you for posting!

[Torrey]

Leaving open for judging, hopefully we have some more interactions today!

If you are ORD and comment: ORD + one of the following

• "Thanks" = 4 points
• "Love" = 3 points
• "Laugh" = 2 points
• "Like" = 1 points

I can still add the points to the entry. Because ORDs happen!🤷🏼‍♂️

@xXInkedPhoenixX are you allowing ORDs on your Design Competition? (Want to add a link here so people can find?)

** this allows for ranked voting, so everyone can get a vote!

[xXInkedPhoenixX]

@Torrey Yes, at this point I WOULD ALLOW ORD reactions since voter turn out has been low 😄

NERM WEEK 2022 - ULTIMATE DESIGN CONTEST - Posting for official entries!! https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/topic/25123-nerm-week-2022-ultimate-design-contest-posting-for-official-entries/

 

[Cinnebuns]

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea I was just thinking of this because I just cleaned my breeder box today. Idk if it's something you want to add or whatever. When I clean mine and then scoop babies back, I spend all day, sometimes more, checking who's alive and putting them back. I don't just check for movement. I will let it sit for many hours then see who has climbed up the side of the container and scoop them back into the box. Sometimes live ones can be inactive for periods so that's why I let them take their time. Some pop up immediately but some take hours. 

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 7/25/2022 at 2:50 PM, Cinnebuns said:

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea I was just thinking of this because I just cleaned my breeder box today. Idk if it's something you want to add or whatever. When I clean mine and then scoop babies back, I spend all day, sometimes more, checking who's alive and putting them back. I don't just check for movement. I will let it sit for many hours then see who has climbed up the side of the container and scoop them back into the box. Sometimes live ones can be inactive for periods so that's why I let them take their time. Some pop up immediately but some take hours. 

That's true. For anyone I couldn't determine within 30-45 minutes, I would let a container sit and check it later. 

I can't do an edit on this post, as the voting is still in progress on this contest.  Hopefully they will announce the results soon!  There are some great entries!

Edited July 25, 2022 by Chick-In-Of-TheSea

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

I've been seeing some cool posts about DIY gadgets that people have come up with to make the hobby easier.  Maybe that could be a category for the next NERM week.

@Torrey

Edited September 22, 2022 by Chick-In-Of-TheSea

[Torrey]

@nabokovfan87 Thank you so much for braving being the first to publish! @Chick-In-Of-TheSea, @Hobbit and @Cinnebuns I'm glad all of you entered.

I had a friend print out each entry, but with the identifying information removed (best way I could think of to ensure fairness in judging) and scored according to:

1. Was the font easy to read on a phone and on the computer?

2. Were photos included to improve understanding?

3. Was there a:

• clear header, in a larger font than the rest of what was written?
• clear body with novel information/ clearer directions that were easier to understand than the original?

4. A bio of some sort?

5. Included biggest mistake?

These content points were determined on Saturday 16th July, and voting by forum members was extended until Sunday evening to gain more participation.

I extended collating the actual forum participation points until Sunday at midnight, points were scored 00:01 Monday 18th July....

At which point life exploded (technically plumbing exploded) causing some technical difficulties, and awards were not announced in a timely manner. I apologize.

@FishPlanet, @Guppysnail, @Flumpweesel, @FlyingFishKeeper, @Minanora, @KimberlyDade, @Minanora, @dasaltemelosguy, @billango, @saphbettas, and @xXInkedPhoenixX thank you for your patience!!!!

 

Everyone, please join me in congratulating the winners of this years Second Annual Nerm Week Rewritten Directions Competition!

 

 

[Flumpweesel]

Thought you'd been quiet of late sorry about the plumbing crisis. Sometimes our homes can really test us.